coming soon complete anarchist cookbook

Table of Contents
1.Counterfeiting Money
2.Credit Card Fraud
3.Making Plastic Explosives
4.Picking Master Locks
5.The Arts of Lockpicking I
6.The Arts of Lockpicking II
7.Solidox Bombs
8.High Tech Revenge: The Beigebox
9.COý Bombs
10.Thermite II Bombs
11.Touch Explosives
12.Letter Bombs
13.Paint Bombs
14.Ways to send a car to HELL
15.Do you hate school?
16.Phone related vandalism
17.Highway police radar jamming
18.Smoke Bombs
19.Mail Box Bombs
20.Hot-wiring cars
21.Napalm
22.Fertilizer Bomb
23.Tennis Ball Bomb
24.Diskette Bombs
25.Unlisted Phone Numbers
26.Fuses
27.How to make Potassium Nitrate
28.Exploding Lightbulbs
29.Under water igniters
30.Home-brew blast cannon
31.Chemical Equivalency List
32.Phone Taps
33.Landmines
34.A different Molitov Cocktail
35.Phone Systems Tutorial I
36.Phone Systems Tutorial II
37.Basic Alliance Teleconferencing
38.Aqua Box Plans
39.Hindenberg Bomb
40.How to Kill Someone
41.Phone Systems Tutorial III
42.Black Box Plans
43.The Blotto Box
44.Blowgun
45.Brown Box Plans
46.Calcium Carbide Bomb
47.More Ways to Send a Car to Hell
48.Ripping off Change Machines
49.Clear Box Plans
50.CNA Number Listing
51.Electronic Terrorism
52.Start a Conf. w/o 2600hz or MF
53.Dynamite
54.Auto Exhaust Flame Thrower
55.How to Break into BBs Express
56.Firebomb
57.Fuse Bomb
58.Generic Bomb
59.Green Box Plans
60.Portable Grenade Launcher
61.Basic Hacking Tutorial I
62.Basic Hacking Tutorial II
63.Hacking DEC's
64.Harmless Bombs
65.Breaking into Houses
66.Hypnotism
67.Remote Informer Issue #1
68.Jackpotting ATM Machines
69.Jug Bomb
70.Fun at K-Mart
71.Mace Substitute
72.How to Grow Marijuana
73.Match Head Bomb
74.Terrorizing McDonalds
75."Mentor's" Last Words
76.The Myth of the 2600hz Detector
77.Blue Box Plans
78.Napalm II
79.Nitroglycerin Recipe
80.Operation: Fuckup
81.Stealing Calls from Payphones
82.Pool Fun
83.Free Postage
84.Unstable Explosives
85.Weird Drugs
86.The Art of Carding
87.Recognizing Credit Cards
88.How to Get a New Identity
89.Remote Informer Issue #2
90.Remote Informer Issue #3
91.Remote Informer Issue #4
92.Remote Informer Issue #5
93.Phreaker's Guide to Loop Lines
94.Ma-Bell Tutorial
95.Getting Money out of Pay Phones
96.Computer-based PBX
97.PC-Pursuit Port Statistics
98.Pearl Box Plans
99.The Phreak File
100.Red Box Plans
101.RemObS
102.Scarlet Box Plans
103.Silver Box Plans
104.Bell Trashing
105.Canadian WATS Phonebook
106.Hacking TRW
107.Hacking VAX & UNIX
108.Verification Circuits
109.White Box Plans
110.The BLAST Box
111.Dealing with the R&R Operator
112.Cellular Phone Phreaking
113.Cheesebox Plans
114.Start Your Own Conferences
115.Gold Box Plans
116.The History of ESS
117.The Lunch Box
118.Olive Box Plans
119.The Tron Box
120.More TRW Info
121."Phreaker's Phunhouse"
122.Phrack Magazine-Vol. 3, Issue 27
123.Phrack Magazine-Vol. 3, Issue 27
124.Phrack Magazine-Vol. 3, Issue 28
125.Phrack Magazine-Vol. 3, Issue 28
126.Phrack Magazine-Vol. 3, Issue 28
127.Phrack Magazine-Vol. 3, Issue 30
128.Phrack Magazine-Vol. 3, Issue 30
129.Phrack Magazine-Vol. 3, Issue 30
130.Sodium Chlorate
131.Mercury Fulminate
132.Improvised Black Powder
133.Nitric Acid
134.Dust Bomb Instructions
135.Carbon-Tet Explosive
136.Making Picric Acid from Aspirin
137.Reclamation of RDX from C-4
138.Egg-based Gelled Flame Fuels
139.Clothespin Switch
140.Flexible Plate Switch
141.Low Signature System [Silencers]
142.Delay Igniter From Cigarette
143.Nicotine
144.Dried Seed Timer
145.Nail Grenade
146.Bell Glossary
147.Phone Dial Locks -- Beat'em
148.Exchange Scanning
149.A Short History of Phreaking
150."Secrets of the Little Blue Box"
151.The History of British Phreaking
152."Bad as Shit"
153.Telenet
154.Fucking with the Operator
155.Phrack Magazine-Vol. 1, Issue 1
156.International Country Codes List
157.Infinity Transmitter Plans
158.LSD
159.Bananas
160.Yummy Marihuana Recipes
161.Peanuts
162.Chemical Fire Bottle
163.Igniter from Book Matches
164."Red or White Powder" Propellant
165.Pipe Hand Grenade
166.European Credit Card Fraud
167.Potassium Bomb
168.Your Legal Rights
169.Juvenile Offenders' Rights
170.Down The Road Missle
171.Fun With Shotgun Shells
172.Surveillance Equipment
173.Drip Timer
174.Stealing
175.Miscellaneous
176.Shaving cream bomb
177.Ripping off change machines II
178.Lockpicking the EASY way
179.Anarchy 'N' Explosives Prelude
180.Anarchy 'N' Explosives Vol. 1
181.Anarchy 'N' Explosives Vol. 2
182.Anarchy 'N' Explosives Vol. 3
183.Anarchy 'N' Explosives Vol. 4
184.Anarchy 'N' Explosives Vol. 5
185.Explosives and Propellants
186.Lockpicking III
187.Chemical Equivalent List II
188.Nitroglycerin II
189.Cellulose Nitrate
190.Starter Explosives
191.Flash Powder
192.Exploding Pens
193.Revised Pipe Bombs
194.* SAFETY * A MUST READ!
195.Ammonium TriIodide
196.Sulfuric Acid & Amm. Nitrate III
197.Black Powder III
198.Nitrocellulose
199.RDX
200.The Black Gate BBS
201.ANFOS
202.Picric Acid II
203.Bottled Explosives
204.Dry Ice
205.Fuses / Ignitors / Delays
206.Film Canister Bombs
207.Book Bombs
208.Phone Bombs
209.Special Ammunition
210.Rocketry
211.Pipe Cannon II
212.Smoke Bombs
213.Firecrackers
214.Suppliers II
215.Lab-Raid Checklist
216.Misc Anarchy
217.Combo Locks II
218.Misc Anarchy II
219.Thermite IV
1. Counterfeiting Money by The Jolly Roger
Before reading this article, it would be a very good idea to get a book on photo offset printing, for this is the method
used in counterfeiting US currency. If you are familiar with this method of printing, counterfeiting should be a simple
task for you.
Genuine currency is made by a process called "gravure", which involves etching a metal block. Since etching a metal
block is impossible to do by hand, photo offset printing comes into the process.
Photo offset printing starts by making negatives of the currency with a camera, and putting the negatives on a piece
of masking material (usually orange in color). The stripped negatives, commonly called "flats", are then exposed to a
lithographic plate with an arc light plate maker. The burned plates are then developed with the proper developing
chemical. One at a time, these plates are wrapped around the plate cylinder of the press.
The press to use should be an 11 by 14 offset, such as the AB Dick 360. Make 2 negatives of the portrait side of the
bill, and 1 of the back side. After developing them and letting them dry, take them to a light table. Using opaque on
one of the portrait sides, touch out all the green, which is the seal and the serial numbers. The back side does not
require any retouching, because it is all
one color. Now, make sure all of the negatives are registered (lined up correctly) on the flats. By the way, every time
you need another serial number, shoot 1 negative of the portrait side, cut out the serial number, and remove the old
serial number from the flat replacing it with the new one.
Now you have all 3 flats, and each represents a different color: black, and 2 shades of green (the two shades of
green are created by mixing inks). Now you are ready to burn the plates. Take a lithographic plate and etch three
marks on it. These marks must be 2 and 9/16 inches apart, starting on one of the short edges. Do the same thing to 2
more plates. Then, take 1 of the flats and place it on the plate, exactly lining the short edge up with the edge of the
plate. Burn it, move it up to the next mark, and cover up the exposed area you have already burned. Burn that, and
do the same thing 2 more times, moving the flat up one more mark. Do the same process with the other 2 flats (each
on a separate plate). Develop all three plates. You should now have 4 images on each plate with an equal space
between each bill.
The paper you will need will not match exactly, but it will do for most situations. The paper to use should have a 25%
rag content. By the way, Disaperf computer paper (invisible perforation) does the job well. Take the paper and load it
into the press. Be sure to set the air, buckle, and paper thickness right. Start with the black plate (the plate without
the serial numbers). Wrap it around the cylinder and load black ink in. Make sure you run more than you need
because there will be a lot of rejects. Then, while that is printing, mix the inks for the serial numbers and the back
side. You will need to add some white and maybe yellow to the serial number ink. You also need to add black to the
back side. Experiment until you get it right. Now, clean the press and print the other side. You will now have a bill with
no green seal or serial numbers. Print a few with one serial number, make another and repeat. Keep doing this until
you have as many different numbers as you want. Then cut the bills to the exact size with a paper cutter. You should
have printed a large amount of money by now, but there is still one problem; the paper is pure white. To dye it, mix
the following in a pan: 2 cups of hot water, 4 tea bags, and about 16 to 20 drops of green food coloring (experiment
with this). Dip one of the bills in and compare it to a genuine US bill. Make the necessary adjustments, and dye all the
bills. Also, it is a good idea to make them look used. For example, wrinkle them, rub coffee grinds on them, etc.
As before mentioned, unless you are familiar with photo offset printing, most of the information in this article will be
fairly hard to understand. Along with getting a book on photo offset printing, try to see the movie "To Live and Die in
LA". It is about a counterfeiter, and the producer does a pretty good job of showing how to counterfeit. A good book
on the subject is "The Poor Man's James Bond".
If all of this seems too complicated to you, there is one other method available for counterfeiting: The Canon color
laser copier. The Canon can replicate ANYTHING in vibrant color, including US currency. But, once again, the main
problem in counterfeiting is the paper used. So, experiment, and good luck!
2. Credit Card Fraud by The Jolly Roger
For most of you out there, money is hard to come by. Until now:
With the recent advent of plastic money (credit cards), it is easy to use someone else's credit card to order the items
you have always desired in life. The stakes are high, but the payoff is worth it.
Step One: Getting the credit card information
First off, you must obtain the crucial item: someone's credit card number. The best way to get credit card numbers is to take the blue carbons used in a credit card transaction at your local department store. These can usually be found
in the garbage can next to the register, or for the more daring, in the garbage dumpster behind the store. But, due to
the large amount of credit card fraud, many stores have opted to use a carbonless transaction sheet, making things
much more difficult. This is where your phone comes in handy.
First, look up someone in the phone book, and obtain as much information as possible about them. Then, during
business hours, call in a very convincing voice - "Hello, this is John Doe from the Visa Credit Card Fraud
Investigations Department. We have been informed that your credit card may have been used for fraudulent
purposes, so will you please read off the numbers appearing on your Visa card for verification." Of course, use your
imagination! Believe it or not, many people will fall for this ploy and give out their credit information.
Now, assuming that you have your victim's credit card number, you should be able to decipher the information given.
Step Two: Recognizing information from carbon copies
Card example:
[American Express]
XXXX XXXXXX XXXXX
MM/Y1 THRU MM/Y2
JOE SHMOE
Explanation:
MM/Y1 is the date the card was issued, and MM/Y2 is the expiration date. The American Express Gold Card has
numbers XXXXXX XXXXXXXX XXXXXXXX, and is covered for up to $5000.00, even if the card holder is broke.
[Mastercard]
5XXX XXXX XXXX XXXX
XXXX AAA DD-MM-YY MM/YY
JOE SHMOE
Explanation:
XXXX in the second row may be asked for during the ordering process. The first date is when the card was new, and
the second is when the card expires. The most frequent number combination used is 5424 1800 XXXX XXXX. There
are many of these cards in circulation, but many of these are on wanted lists, so check these first.
[Visa]
4XXX XXX(X) XXX(X) XXX(X)
MM/YY MM/YY*VISA
JOE SHMOE
Explanation:
Visa is the most abundant card, and is accepted almost everywhere. The "*VISA" is sometimes replaced with "BWG",
or followed with a special code. These codes are as follows:
[1] MM/YY*VISA V - Preferred Card
[2] MM/YY*VISA CV - Classic Card
[3] MM/YY*VISA PV - Premier Card
Preferred Cards are backed with money, and are much safer to use. Classic Cards are newer, harder to reproduce
cards with decent backing. Premier Cards are Classic Cards with Preferred coverage. Common numbers are 4448
020 XXX XXX, 4254 5123 6000 XXXX, and 4254 5123 8500 XXXX. Any 4712 1250 XXXX XXXX cards are IBM Credit
Union cards, and are risky to use, although they are usually covered for large purchases.
Step Three: Testing credit
You should now have a Visa, Mastercard, or American Express credit card number, with the victim's address, zip
code, and phone number. By the way, if you have problems getting the address, most phone companies offer the
Address Tracking Service, which is a special number you call that will give you an address from a
phone number, at a nominal charge. Now you need to check the balance of credit on the credit card (to make sure
you don't run out of money), and you must also make sure that the card isn't stolen. To do this you must obtain a
phone number that businesses use to check out credit cards during purchases. If you go to a department store,
watch the cashier when someone makes a credit card purchase. He/she will usually call a phone number, give the
credit information, and then give what is called a "Merchant Number". These numbers are usually written down on or
around the register. It is easy to either find these numbers and copy them, or to wait until they call one in. Watch what
they dial and wait for the 8 digit (usually) merchant number. Once you call the number, in a calm voice, read off the
account number, merchant number, amount, and expiration date. The credit bureau will tell you if it is OK, and will
give you an authorization number. Pretend you are writing this number down, and repeat it back to them to check it.
Ignore this number completely, for it serves no real purpose. However, once you do this, the bank removes dollars
equal to what you told them, because the card was supposedly used to make a purchase. Sometimes you can trick
the operator by telling her the customer changed his mind and decided not to charge it. Of course, some will not
allow this. Remember at all times that you are supposed to be a store clerk calling to check out the card for a
purchase. Act like you are talking with a customer when he/she "cancels".
Step Four: The drop
Once the cards are cleared, you must find a place to have the package sent. NEVER use a drop more than once.
The following are typical drop sites:
[1] An empty house
An empty house makes an excellent place to send things. Send the package UPS, and leave a note on the door
saying, "UPS. I work days, 8 to 6. Could you please leave the package on the back door step?" You can find dozens
of houses from a real estate agent by telling them you want to look around for a house. Ask for a list of twenty houses
for sale, and tell them you will check out the area. Do so, until you find one that suits your needs.
[2] Rent A Spot
U-Haul sometimes rents spaces where you can have packages sent and signed for. End your space when the
package arrives.
[3] People's houses
Find someone you do not know, and have the package sent there. Call ahead saying that "I called the store and they
sent the package to the wrong address. It was already sent, but can you keep it there for me?" This is a very reliable
way if you keep calm when talking to the people.
Do NOT try post office boxes. Most of the time, UPS will not deliver to a post office box, and many people have been
caught in the past attempting to use a post office box. Also, when you have determined a drop site, keep an eye on it
for suspicious characters and cars that have not been there before.
Step Five: Making the transaction
You should now have a reliable credit card number with all the necessary billing information, and a good drop site.
The best place to order from is catalogues, and mail order houses. It is in your best interest to place the phone call
from a pay phone, especially if it is a 1-800 number. Now, when you call, don't try to disguise your voice, thinking you
will trick the salesperson into believing you are an adult. These folks are trained to detect this, so your best bet is to
order in your own voice. They will ask for the following: name, name as it appears on card, phone number, billing
address, expiration date, method of shipping, and product. Ask if they offer UPS Red shipping (next day arrival),
because it gives them less time to research an order. If you are using American Express, you might have a bit of a
problem shipping to an address other than the billing address. Also, if the salesperson starts to ask questions, do
NOT hang up. Simply talk your way out of the situation, so you won't encourage investigation on the order.
If everything goes right, you should have the product, free of charge. Insurance picks up the tab, and no one is any
wiser. Be careful, and try not to order anything over $500. In some states, UPS requires a signature for anything over
$200, not to mention that anything over $200 is defined as grand theft, as well as credit fraud. Get caught doing this,
and you will bite it for a couple of years. Good luck!
3. Making Plastic Explosives from Bleach by The Jolly Roger
Potassium chlorate is an extremely volatile explosive compound, and has been used in the past as the main
explosive filler in grenades, land mines, and mortar rounds by such countries as France and Germany. Common
household bleach contains a small amount of potassium chlorate, which can be extracted by the procedure that
follows.
First off, you must obtain:
1.A heat source (hot plate, stove, etc.)
2.A hydrometer, or battery hydrometer
3.A large Pyrex, or enameled steel container (to weigh chemicals)
4.Potassium chloride(sold as a salt substitute at health and nutrition stores)
Take one gallon of bleach, place it in the container, and begin heating it. While this solution heats, weigh out 63
grams of potassium chloride and add this to the bleach being heated. Constantly check the solution being heated
with the hydrometer, and boil until you get a reading of 1.3. If using a battery hydrometer, boil until you read a FULL
charge.
Take the solution and allow it to cool in a refrigerator until it is between room temperature and 0øC. Filter out the
crystals that have formed and save them. Boil this solution again and cool as before. Filter and save the crystals.
Take the crystals that have been saved, and mix them with distilled water in the following proportions: 56 grams per
100 milliliters distilled water. Heat this solution until it boils and allow to cool. Filter the solution and save the crystals
that form upon cooling. This process of purification is called "fractional crystallization". These crystals should be
relatively pure potassium chlorate.
Powder these to the consistency of face powder, and heat gently to drive off all moisture.
Now, melt five parts Vaseline with five parts wax. Dissolve this in white gasoline (camp stove gasoline), and pour this
liquid on 90 parts potassium chlorate (the powdered crystals from above) into a plastic bowl. Knead this liquid into the
potassium chlorate until intimately mixed. Allow all gasoline to evaporate.
Finally, place this explosive into a cool, dry place. Avoid friction, sulfur, sulfides, and phosphorous compounds. This
explosive is best molded to the desired shape and density of 1.3 grams in a cube and dipped in wax until water proof.
These block type charges guarantee the highest detonation velocity. Also, a blasting cap of at least a 3 grade must
be used.
The presence of the afore mentioned compounds (sulfur, sulfides, etc.) results in mixtures that are or can become
highly sensitive and will possibly decompose explosively while in storage. You should never store homemade
explosives, and you must use EXTREME caution at all times while performing the processes in this article.
You may obtain a catalog of other subject of this nature by writing:
Information Publishing Co.
Box 10042
Odessa, Texas 79762
4. Picking Master Locks by The Jolly Roger
Have you ever tried to impress someone by picking one of those Master combination locks and failed?
The Master lock company made their older combination locks with a protection scheme. If you pull the handle too
hard, the knob will not turn. That was their biggest mistake.
The first number:
Get out any of the Master locks so you know what is going on. While pulling on the clasp (part that springs open
when you get the combination right), turn the knob to the left until it will not move any more, and add five to the
number you reach. You now have the first number of the combination.
The second number:
Spin the dial around a couple of times, then go to the first number you got. Turn the dial to the right, bypassing the
first number once. When you have bypassed the first number, start pulling on the clasp and turning the knob. The
knob will eventually fall into the groove and lock. While in the groove, pull the clasp and turn the knob. If the knob is
loose, go to the next groove, if the knob is stiff, you have the second number of the combination.
The third number:
After getting the second number, spin the dial, then enter the two numbers. Slowly spin the dial to the right, and at each number, pull on the clasp. The lock will eventually open if you did the process right.
This method of opening Master locks only works on older models. Someone informed Master of their mistake, and
they employed a new mechanism that is foolproof (for now).
5. The Arts of Lockpicking I by The Jolly Roger
Lockpicking I: Cars and assorted other locks
While the basic themes of lockpicking and uninvited entry have not changed much in the last few years, some
modern devices and techniques have appeared on the scene.
Automobiles:
Many older automobiles can still be opened with a Slim Jim type of opener (these and other auto locksmithing
techniques are covered fully in the book "In the Still of the Night", by John Russell III); however, many car
manufacturers have built cases over the lock mechanism, or have moved the lock mechanism so the Slim Jim will not
work. So:
American Locksmith Service
P.O. Box 26
Culver City, CA 90230
ALS offers a new and improved Slim Jim that is 30 inches long and 3/4 inches wide, so it will both reach and slip
through the new car lock covers (inside the door). Price is $5.75 plus $2.00 postage and handling.
Cars manufactured by General Motors have always been a bane to people who needed to open them, because the
sidebar locking unit they employ is very difficult to pick. To further complicate matters, the new GM cars employ metal
shields to make the use of a Slim Jim type instrument very difficult. So:
Lock Technology Corporation
685 Main St.
New Rochelle, NY 10801
LTC offers a cute little tool which will easily remove the lock cylinder without harm to the vehicle, and will allow you to
enter and/or start the vehicle. The GMC-40 sells for $56.00 plus $2.00 for postage and handling.
The best general automobile opening kit is probably a set of lockout tools offered by:
Steck MFG Corporation
1319 W. Stewart St.
Dayton, OH 45408
For $29.95 one can purchase a complete set of six carbon lockout tools that will open more than 95% of all the cars
around.
Kwickset locks have become quite popular as one step security locks for many types of buildings. They are a bit
harder to pick and offer a higher degree of security than a normal builder installed door lock. So:
A MFG
1151 Wallace St.
Massilon, OH 44646
Price is $11.95. Kwickset locks can handily be disassembled and the door opened without harm to either the lock or
the door by using the above mentioned Kwick Out tool.
If you are too lazy to pick auto locks:
Veehof Supply
Box 361
Storm Lake, IO 50588
VS sells tryout keys for most cars (tryout keys are used since there is no one master key for any one make of car, but
there are group type masters (a.k.a. tryout keys). Prices average about $20.00 a set.
Updated Lockpicking:
For years, there have been a number of pick attack procedures for most pin and tumbler lock systems. In reverse
order of ease they are as follows:
Normal Picking:
Using a pick set to align the pins, one by one, until the shear line is set and the lock opens.
Racking:
This method uses picks that are constructed with a series of bumps, or diamond shape notches. These picks are
"raked" (i.e. run over all the pins at one time). With luck, the pins will raise in the open position and stay there.
Raking, if successful, can be much less of an effort than standard picking.
Lock Aid Gun:
This gun shaped device was invented a number of years ago and has found application with many locksmiths and
security personnel. Basically, a needle shaped pick is inserted in the snout of the "gun", and the "trigger" is pulled.
This action snaps the pick up and down strongly. If the tip is slipped under the pins, they will also be snapped up and
down strongly. With a bit of luck they will strike each other and separate at the shear line for a split second. When
this happens the lock will open. The lock aid gun is not 100% successful, but when it does work, the results are very
dramatic. You can sometimes open the lock with one snap of the trigger.
Vibrator:
Some crafty people have mounted a needle pick into an electric toothbrush power unit. This vibrating effect will
sometimes open pin tumbler locks -- instantly.
There is now another method to open pin and wafer locks in a very short time. Although it resembles a toothbrush
pick in appearance, it is actually an electronic device. I am speaking of the Cobra pick that is designed and sold by:
Fed Corporation
P.O. Box 569
Scottsdale, AR 85252
The Cobra uses two nine volt batteries, teflon bearings (for less noise), and a cam roller. It comes with three picks
(for different types of locks) and works both in America and overseas, on pin or wafer locks. The Cobra will open
group one locks (common door locks) in three to seven seconds with no damage, in the hands of an experienced
locksmith. It can take a few seconds more or up to a half a minute for someone with no experience at all. It will also
open group two locks (including government, high security, and medicos), although this can take a short time longer.
It will not open GM sidebar locks, although a device is about to be introduced to fill that gap. How much for this toy
that will open most locks in seven seconds?
$235.00 plus $4.00 shipping and handling.
For you hard core safe crackers, FC also sells the MI-6 that will open most safes at a cost of $10,000 for the three
wheel attack model, and $10,500 for the four wheel model. It comes in a sturdy aluminum carrying case with monitor,
disk drive and software.
If none of these safe and sane ideas appeal to you, you can always fall back on the magic thermal lance...
The thermal lance is a rather crude instrument constructed from 3/8 inch hollow magnesium rods. Each tube comes
in a 10 foot length, but can be cut down if desired. Each one is threaded on one end. To use the lance, you screw the
tube together with a matted regulator (like a welding outfit uses) and hook up an oxygen tank. Then oxygen is turned
on and the rod is lit with a standard welding igniter. The device produces an incredible amount of heat. It is used for
cutting up concrete blocks or even rocks. An active lance will go through a foot of steel in a few seconds. The lance is
also known as a burning bar, and is available from:
C.O.L. MFG
7748 W. Addison
Chicago, IL 60634
6. The Arts of Lockpicking II by The Jolly Roger So you want to be a criminal. Well, if you want to be like James Bond and open a lock in fifteen seconds, then go to
Hollywood, because that is the only place you are ever going to do it. Even experienced locksmiths can spend five to
ten minutes on a lock if they are unlucky. If you are wanting extremely quick access, look elsewhere. The following
instructions will pertain mostly to the "lock in knob" type lock, since it is the easiest to pick.
First of all, you need a pick set. If you know a locksmith, get him to make you a set. This will be the best possible set
for you to use. If you find a locksmith unwilling to supply a set, don't give up hope. It is possible to make your own, if
you have access to a grinder (you can use a file, but it takes forever).
The thing you need is an allen wrench set (very small). These should be small enough to fit into the keyhole slot.
Now, bend the long end of the allen wrench at a slight angle (not 90ø). Now, take your pick to a grinder or a file, and
smooth the end until it is rounded so it won't hang inside the lock. Test your tool out on doorknobs at your house to
see if it will slide in and out smoothly. Now, this is where the screwdriver comes in. It must be small enough for it
and your pick to be used in the same lock at the same time, one above the other. In the coming instructions, please
refer to this chart of the interior of a lock:
______________________________
\ K
| | | | | | / E
| | | | \ Y [|] Upper tumbler pin
^ ^ / H [^] Lower tumbler pin
^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ \ O [-] Cylinder wall
/ L (This is a greatly simplified
\ E drawing)
______________________________/
The object is to press the pin up so that the space between the upper pin and the lower pin is level with the cylinder
wall. Now, if you push a pin up, it's tendency is to fall back down, right? That is where the screwdriver comes in.
Insert the screwdriver into the slot and turn. This tension will keep the "solved" pins from falling back down. Now,
work from the back of the lock to the front, and when you are through, there will be a click, the screwdriver will turn
freely, and the door will open.
Do not get discouraged on your first try! It will probably take you about twenty to thirty minutes your first time. After
that, you will quickly improve with practice.
7. Solidox Bombs by The Jolly Roger
Most people are not aware that a volatile, extremely explosive chemical can be bought over the counter: Solidox.
Solidox comes in an aluminum can containing 6 grey sticks, and can be bought at K-Mart, and various hardware
supply shops for around $7.00. Solidox is used in welding applications as an oxidizing agent for the hot flame needed
to melt metal. The most active ingredient in Solidox is potassium chlorate, a filler used in many military applications in
the WWII era.
Since Solidox is literally what the name says: SOLID OXygen, you must have an energy source for an explosion. The
most common and readily available energy source is common household sugar, or sucrose. In theory, glucose would
be the purest energy source, but it is hard to find a solid supply of glucose.
Making the mixture:
1.Open the can of Solidox, and remove all 6 sticks. One by one, grind up each of the sticks (preferably with a mortar
and pestle) into the finest powder possible.
2.The ratio for mixing the sugar with the Solidox is 1:1, so weigh the Solidox powder, and grind up the equivalent
amount of sugar.
3.Mix equivalent amounts of Solidox powder, and sugar in a 1:1 ratio.
It is just that simple! You now have an extremely powerful substance that can be used in a variety of applications. A
word of caution: be EXTREMELY careful in the entire process. Avoid friction, heat, and flame. A few years back, a
teenager I knew blew 4 fingers off while trying to make a pipe bomb with Solidox. You have been warned!
8. High Tech Revenge: The Beigebox - Rev.2 by The Jolly Roger
I. Introduction
Have you ever wanted a lineman's handset? Surely every phreak has at least once considered the phun that he
could have with one. After searching unlocked phone company trucks for months, we had an idea. We could build
one. We did, and named it the "Beige Box" simply because that is the color of ours.
The beigebox is simply a consumer lineman's handset, which is a phone that can be attached to the outside of a
person's house. To fabricate a beigebox, follow along.
II. Construction and Use
The construction is very simple. First you must understand the concept of the device. In a modular jack, there are
four wires. These are red, green, yellow, and black. For a single line telephone, however, only two matter: the red
(ring) and green (tip). The yellow and the black are not necessary for this project. A lineman's handset has two clips
on it: the ring and the tip. Take a modular jack and look at the bottom of it's casing. There should be a grey jack with
four wires (red, green, yellow & black) leading out of it. To the end of the red wire attach a red alligator clip. To the
end of the green wire attach a green alligator clip. The yellow and black wires can be removed, although I would only
set them aside so that you can use the modular jack in future projects. Now insert your telephone's modular plug into
the modular jack. That's it. This particular model is nice because it is can be easily made, is inexpensive, uses
common parts that are readily available, is small, is lightweight, and does not require the destruction of a phone.
III. Beige Box Uses
There are many uses for a Beige Box. However, before you can use it, you must know how to attach it to the output
device. This device can be of any of Bell switching apparatus that include germinal sets (i.e. remote switching
centers, bridgin heads, cans, etc.) To open most Bell Telephone switching apparatus, you must have a 7/16 inch hex
driver (or a good pair of needle nose pliers work also). This piece of equipment can be picked up at your local
hardware store. With your hex driver (or pliers), turn the security bolt(s) approximately 1/8 of an inch counterclockwise
and open. If your output device is locked, then you must have some knowledge of destroying and/or
picking locks. However, we have never encountered a locked output device. Once you have opened your output
device, you should see a mass of wires connected to terminals. On most output devices, the terminals should be
labeled "T" (Tip -- if not labeled, it is usually on the left) and "R" (Ring -- if not labeled, usually on the right).
Remember: Ring - red - right. The "Three R's" -- a simple way to remember which is which. Now you must attach all
the red alligator clip (Ring) to the "R" (Ring) terminal. Attach the green alligator clip (Tip) to the "T" (Tip) terminal.
Note: If instead of a dial tone you hear nothing, adjust the alligator clips so that they are not touching each other
terminals. Also make sure they are firmly attached. By this time you should hear a dial tone. Dial ANI to find out the
number you are using (you wouldn't want to use your own). Here are some practical applications:
Eavesdropping
Long distance, static free, free fone calls to phriends
Dialing direct to Alliance Teleconferencing (also no static)
Phucking people over
Bothering the operator at little risk to yourself
Blue Boxing with greatly reduced chance of getting caught
Anything at all you want, since you are on an extension of that line
Eavesdropping
To be most effective, first attach the Beige Box then your phone. This eliminates the static caused by connecting the
box, therefore reducing the potential suspicion of your victim. When eavesdropping, it is always best to be neither
seen nor heard. If you hear someone dialing out, do not panic; but rather hang up, wait, and pick up the receiver
again. The person will either have hung up or tried to complete their call again. If the latter is true, then listen in, an The Number:
Alliance is in the 700 exchange, thus it is not localized, well, not in a way. Alliance is only in certain states, and only
residents of these certain states can access by dialing direct. This, however, will be discussed in a later chapter. The
numbers for alliance are as follows:
0-700-456-1000 (Chicago)
-1001 (Los Angeles)
-1002 (Chicago)
-1003 (Houston)
-2000 (?)
-2001 (?)
-2002 (?)
-2003 (?)
-3000 (?)
-3001 (?)
-3002 (?)
-3003 (?)
The locations of the first 4 numbers are known and I have stated them. However, the numbers in the 200x and 300x
are not definitely known. Rumor has it that the pattern repeats itself but this has not been proven.
Dialing:
As stated before, Alliance is only in certain stated and only these states can access them via dialing direct. However,
dialing direct causes your residence to be charged for the conference and conference bills are not low!!!
Therefore, many ways have been discovered to start a conference without having it billed to ones house. They are as
follows:
1.Dialing through a PBX.
2.Incorporating a Blue Box.
3.Billing to a loop.
4.Billing to a forwarded call.
I am sure there are many more, but these are the four I will deal with.
Dialing through a PBX:
Probably the easiest method of creating a free conference is through a PBX. Simply call one in a state that has
Alliance, input the PBX's code, dial 9 for an outside line and then dial alliance. An example of this would be:
PBX: 800-241-4911
When it answers it will give you a tone. At this tone input your code.
Code: 1234
After this you will receive another tone, now dial 9 for an outside line.
You will now hear a dial tone. Simply dial Alliance from this point and
the conference will be billed to the PBX.
Using a Blue Box:
Another rather simple way of starting a conference is with a Blue Box. The following procedure is how to box a
conference:
Dial a number to box off of. In this example we will use 609-609-6099 When the party answers hit 2600hz. This will
cause the fone company's equipment to think that you have hung up. You will hear a <beep><kerchunk> You have
now 'seized' a trunk. After this, switch to multi-frequency and dial:
KP-0-700-456-x00x-ST
KP = KP tone on Blue Box
x = variable between 1 and 3
ST = ST tone on Blue Box
The equipment now thinks that the operator has dialed Alliance from her switchboard and the conference shall be
billed there. Since Blue Boxing is such a large topic, this is as far as I will go into it's uses.
Billing to a loop:
A third method of receiving a free conference is by billing out to a loop. A loop is 2 numbers that when two people
call, they can talk to each other. You're saying woop-tee-do right? Wrong! Loops can be <very> useful to phreaks.
First, dial alliance direct. After going through the beginning procedure, which will be discussed later in this tutorial,
dial 0 and wait for an Alliance operator. When she answers tell her you would like to bill the conference to such and
such a number. (A loop where your phriend is on the other side) She will then call that number to receive voice
verification. Of course your phriend will be waiting and will accept the charges. Thus, the conference is billed to the
loop.
Billing to call forwarding:
When you dial a number that is call forwarded, it is first answered by the original location, then forwarded. The
original location will hang up if 2600hz is received from only one end of the line. Therefore, if you were to wait after
the forwarded residence answered, you would receive the original location's dial tone.
Example:
Dial 800-325-4067
The original residence would answer, then forward the call, a second type of ringing would be heard. When this
second residence answers simply wait until they hang up. After about twenty seconds you will then receive the
original residence's dial tone since it heard 2600hz from one end of the line. Simply dial Alliance from this point and
the conference will be billed to the original residence. These are the four main ways to receive a free conference. I
am sure
many more exist, but these four are quite handy themselves.
Logon Procedure:
Once Alliance answers you will hear a two-tone combination. This is their way of saying 'How many people do you
want on the conference dude?' Simply type in a 2-digit combination, depending on what bridge of Alliance you are on,
between 10 and 59. After this either hit '*' to cancel the conference size and input another or hit '#' to continue. You
are now in Alliance Teleconferencing and are only seconds away from having your own roaring conference going
strong!!!
Dialing in Conferees:
To dial your first conferee, dial 1+npa+pre+suff and await his/her answer.
npa = area code
pre = prefix
suff = suffix
If the number is busy, or if no one answers simply hit '*' and your call will be aborted. But, if they do answer, hit the '#'
key. This will add them to the conference. Now commence dialing other conferees.
Joining Your Conference:
To join your conference from control mode simply hit the '#' key. Within a second or two you will be chatting with all
your buddies. To go back into control mode, simply hit the '#' key again.
Transferring Control:
To transfer control to another conferee, go into control mode, hit the # 6+1+npa+pre+suff of the conferee you wish to
give control to. If after, you wish to abort this transfer hit the '*' key.
NOTE: Transfer of control is often not available. When you receive a message stating this, you simply cannot transfer
control.
Muted Conferences:
To request a muted conference simply hit the 9 key. I am not exactly sure what a muted conference is but it is
probably a way to keep unwanted eavesdroppers from listening in.
Dialing Alliance Operators:
Simply dial 0 as you would from any fone and wait for the operator to answer.
Ending Your Conference:
To end your conference all together, that is kick everyone including yourself off, go into control mode and hit '*'...after
a few seconds simply hang up. Your conference is over.
Are Alliance Operators Dangerous?
No. Not in the least. The worst they can do to you while you are having a conference is drop all conferees including
yourself. This is in no way harmful, just a little aggravating.
Alliance and Tracing:
Alliance can trace, as all citizens of the United States can. But this has to all be pre-meditated and AT&T has to be
called and it's really a large hassle, therefore, it is almost never done. Alliance simply does not want it known that
teenagers are phucking them over. The only sort of safety equipment Alliance has on-line is a simple pen register.
This little device simply records all the numbers of the conferees dialed. No big deal. All Alliance can do is call up that
persons number, threaten and question. However, legally, they can do nothing because all you did was answer your
fone.
NOTE: Almost all instructions are told to the person in command by Alliance recordings. A lot of this tutorial is just a
listing of those commands plus information gathered by either myself or the phellow phreaks of the world!!!
38. Aqua Box Plans by The Jolly Roger
Every true phreaker lives in fear of the dreaded FBI 'Lock In Trace'. For a long time, it was impossible to escape from
the Lock In Trace. This box does offer an escape route with simple directions to it. This box is quite a simple concept,
and almost any phreaker with basic electronics knowledge can construct and use it.
The Lock In Trace
A lock in trace is a device used by the FBI to lock into the phone users location so that he can not hang up while a
trace is in progress. For those of you who are not familiar with the concept of 'locking in', then here's a brief
description. The FBI can tap into a conversation, sort of like a three-way call connection. Then, when they get there,
they can plug electricity into the phone line. All phone connections are held open by a certain voltage of electricity.
That is why you sometimes get static and faint connections when you are calling far away, because the electricity has
trouble keeping the line up. What the lock in trace does is cut into the line and generate that same voltage straight
into the lines. That way, when you try and hang up, voltage is retained. Your phone will ring just like someone was
calling you even after you hang up. (If you have call waiting, you should understand better about that, for call waiting
intercepts the electricity and makes a tone that means someone is going through your line. Then, it is a matter of
which voltage is higher. When you push down the receiver, then it see-saws the electricity to the other side. When
you have a person on each line it is impossible to hang up unless one or both of them will hang up. If you try to hang
up, voltage is retained, and your phone will ring. That should give you an understanding of how calling works. Also,
when electricity passes through a certain point on your phone, the electricity causes a bell to ring, or on some newer
phones an electronic ring to sound.) So, in order to eliminate the trace, you somehow must lower the voltage level on
your phone line. You should know that every time someone else picks up the phone line, then the voltage does
decrease a little. In the first steps of planning this out, Xerox suggested getting about a hundred phones all hooked
into the same line that could all be taken off the hook at the same time. That would greatly decrease the voltage
level. That is also why most three-way connections that are using the bell service three way calling (which is only $3
a month) become quite faint after a while. By now, you should understand the basic idea. You have to drain all of the
power out of the line so the voltage can not be kept up. Rather sudden draining of power could quickly short out the
FBI voltage machine, because it was only built to sustain the exact voltage necessary to keep the voltage out. For
now, imagine this. One of the normal Radio Shack generators that you can go pick up that one end of the cord that
hooks into the central box has a phone jack on it and the other has an electrical plug. This way, you can "flash"
voltage through the line, but cannot drain it. So, some
modifications have to be done.
Materials
A BEOC (Basic Electrical Output Socket), like a small lamp-type connection, where you just have a simple plug and
wire that would plug into a light bulb. One of cords mentioned above, if you can't find one then construct your own...
Same voltage connection, but the restrainer must be built in (I.E. The central box) Two phone jacks (one for the
modem, one for if you are being traced to plug the aqua box into) Some creativity and easy work.
Notice: No phones have to be destroyed/modified to make this box, so don't go out and buy a new phone for it!
Procedure
All right, this is a very simple procedure. If you have the BEOC, it could drain into anything: a radio, or whatever. The
purpose of having that is you are going to suck the voltage out from the phone line into the electrical appliance so
there would be no voltage left to lock you in with.
1.Take the connection cord. Examine the plug at the end. It should have only two prongs. If it has three, still, do not
fear. Make sure the electrical appliance is turned off unless you want to become a crispy critter while making this
thing. Most plugs will have a hard plastic design on the top of them to prevent you from getting in at the electrical
wires inside. Well, remove it. If you want to keep the plug (I don't see why...) then just cut the top off. When you
look inside, Low and Behold, you will see that at the base of the prongs there are a few wires connecting in.
Those wires conduct the power into the appliance. So, you carefully unwrap those from the sides and pull them
out until they are about an inch ahead of the prongs. If you don't want to keep the jack, then just rip the prongs
out. If you are, cover the prongs with insulation tape so they will not connect with the wires when the power is
being drained from the line.
2.Do the same thing with the prongs on the other plug, so you have the wires evenly connected. Now, wrap the end
of the wires around each other. If you happen to have the other end of the voltage cord hooked into the phone,
stop reading now, you're too fucking stupid to continue. After you've wrapped the wires around each other, then
cover the whole thing with the plugs with insulating tape. Then, if you built your own control box or if you bought
one, then cram all the wires into it and reclose it. That box is your ticket out of this.
3.Re-check everything to make sure it's all in place. This is a pretty flimsy connection, but on later models when you
get more experienced at it then you can solder away at it and form the whole device into one big box, with some
kind of cheap Mattel hand-held game inside to be the power connector. In order to use it, just keep this box
handy. Plug it into the jack if you want, but it will slightly lower the voltage so it isn't connected. When you plug it
in, if you see sparks, unplug it and restart the whole thing. But if it just seems fine then leave it.
Use
----
Now, so you have the whole thing plugged in and all... Do not use this unless the situation is desperate! When the
trace has gone on, don't panic, unplug your phone, and turn on the appliance that it was hooked to. It will need
energy to turn itself on, and here's a great source... The voltage to keep a phone line open is pretty small and a
simple light bulb should drain it all in and probably short the FBI computer at the same time.
39. Hindenberg Bomb by The Jolly Roger
Needed:
1 Balloon
1 Bottle
1 Liquid Plumber
1 Piece Aluminum foil
1 Length Fuse
Fill the bottle 3/4 full with Liquid Plumber and add a little piece of aluminum foil to it. Put the balloon over the neck of
the bottle until the balloon is full of the resulting gas. This is highly flammable hydrogen. Now tie the balloon. Now
light the fuse, and let it rise. When the fuse contacts the balloon, watch out!!!
40. How to Kill Someone with your Bare Hands by The Jolly Roger
This file will explain the basics of hand-to-hand combat, and will tell of the best places to strike and kill an enemy.
When engaged in hand-to-hand combat, your life is always at stake. There is only one purpose in combat, and that is
to kill your enemy. Never face an enemy with the idea of knocking him out. The chances are extremely good that he
will kill YOU instead. When a weapon is not available, one must resort to the full use of his natural weapons. The
natural weapons are:
1.The knife edge of your hands.
2.Fingers folded at the second joint or knuckle.
3.The protruding knuckle of your second finger.
4.The heel of your hand.
5.Your boot
6.Elbows
7.Knees
8.Your Teeth.
Attacking is a primary factor. A fight was never won by defensive action. Attack with all of your strength. At any point
or any situation, some vulnerable point on your enemies body will be open for attack. Do this while screaming as
screaming has two purposes.
1.To frighten and confuse your enemy.
2.To allow you to take a deep breath which, in turn, will put more oxygen in your blood stream.
Your balance and balance of your enemy are two important factors; since, if you succeed in making your enemy lose
his balance, the chances are nine to one that you can kill him in your next move. The best over-all stance is where
your feet are spread about shoulders width apart, with your right foot about a foot ahead of the left. Both arms should
be bent at the elbows parallel to each other. Stand on the balls of your feet and bend your waist slightly. Kind of like a
boxer's crouch. Employing a sudden movement or a scream or yell can throw your enemy off-balance. There are
many vulnerable points of the body. We will cover them now:
Eyes: Use your fingers in a V-shape and attack in gouging motion.
Nose:(Extremely vulnerable) Strike with the knife edge of the hand along the bridge, which will cause breakage,
sharp pain, temporary blindness, and if the blow is hard enough, death. Also, deliver a blow with the heel of your
hand in an upward motion, this will shove the bone up into the brain causing death.
Adam's Apple: This spot is usually pretty well protected, but if you get the chance, strike hard with the knife edge of
your hand. This should sever the wind-pipe, and then it's all over in a matter of minutes.
Temple: There is a large artery up here, and if you hit it hard enough, it will cause death. If you manage to knock your
enemy down, kick him in the temple, and he'll never get up again.
Back of the Neck: A rabbit punch, or blow delivered to the base of the neck can easily break it, but to be safe, it is
better to use the butt of a gun or some other heavy blunt object.
Upper lip: A large network of nerves are located. These nerves are extremely close to the skin. A sharp upward blow
will cause extreme pain, and unconsciousness.
Ears: Coming up from behind an enemy and cupping the hands in a clapping motion over the victims ears can kill
him immediately. The vibrations caused from the clapping motion will burst his eardrums, and cause internal bleeding
in the brain.
Groin: A VERY vulnerable spot. If left open, get it with knee hard, and he'll buckle over very fast.
Kidneys: A large nerve that branches off to the spinal cord comes very close to the skin at the kidneys. A direct blow
with the knife edge of your hand can cause death.
There are many more ways to kill and injure an enemy, but these should work best for the average person. This is
meant only as information and I would not recommend that you use this for a simple High School Brawl. Use these
methods only, in your opinion, if your life is in danger. Any one of these methods could very easily kill or cause
permanent damage to someone. One more word of caution, you should practice these moves before using them on a
dummy, or a mock battle with a friend. (You don't have to actually hit him to practice, just work on accuracy.)
41. Phone Systems Tutorial III by The Jolly Roger
Preface:
This article will focus primarily on the standard western electric single- Slot coin telephone (aka fortress fone) which
can be divided into 3 types:
dial-tone first (dtf)
coin-first (cf): (i.e., it wants your $ before you receive a dial tone)
dial post-pay service (pp): you payafter the party answers
Depositing coins (slugs):
Once you have deposited your slug into a fortress, it is subjected to a Gamut of tests. The first obstacle for a slug is
the magnetic trap. This will stop any light-weight magnetic slugs and coins. If it passes this, the slug is then classified
as a nickel, dime, or Quarter. Each slug is then checked for appropriate size and weight. If These tests are passed, it
will then travel through a nickel, dime, or quarter Magnet as appropriate. These magnets set up an eddy current
effect which Causes coins of the appropriate characteristics to slow down so they Will follow the correct trajectory. If
all goes well, the coin will follow the Correct path (such as bouncing off of the nickel anvil) where it will Hopefully fall
into the narrow accepted coin channel. The rather elaborate tests that are performed as the coin travels down the
Coin chute will stop most slugs and other undesirable coins, such as Pennies, which must then be retrieved using the
coin release lever. If the slug miraculously survives the gamut, it will then strike the Appropriate totalizer arm causing
a ratchet wheel to rotate once for every 5-cent increment (e.g., a quarter will cause it to rotate 5 times). The totalizer
then causes the coin signal oscillator to readout a dual-frequency signal indicating the value deposited to acts (a
computer) or the Tsps operator. These are the same tones used by phreaks in the infamous red boxes. For a quarter,
5 beep tones are outpulsed at 12-17 pulses per second (pps). A dime causes 2 beep tones at 5 - 8« pps while a
nickel causes one beep tone at 5 - 8« pps. A beep consists of 2 tones: 2200 + 1700 hz. A relay in the fortress called
the "B Relay" (yes, there is also an 'a relay') places a capacitor across the speech circuit during totalizer readout to
prevent the "customer" from hearing the red box tones. In older 3 slot phones: one bell (1050-1100 hz) for a nickel,
two bells for a dime, and one gong (800 hz) for a quarter are used instead of the modern dual-frequency tones.
TSPS & ACTS
While fortresses are connected to the co of the area, all transactions are handled via the traffic service position
system (tsps). In areas that do not have acts, all calls that require operator assistance, such as calling card and
collect, are automatically routed to a tsps operator position. In an effort to automate fortress service, a computer
system known as automated coin toll service (acts) has been implemented in many areas. Acts listens to the red box
signals from the fones and takes appropriate action. It is acts which says, "two dollars please (pause) please deposit
two dollars for the next ten seconds" (and other variations). Also, if you talk for more than three minutes and then
hang-up, acts will call back and demand your money. Acts is also responsible for automated calling card service.
Acts also provide trouble diagnosis for craftspeople (repairmen specializing in fortresses). For example, there is a
coin test which is great for tuning up red boxes. In many areas this test can be activated by dialing 09591230 at a
fortress (thanks to karl marx for this information). Once activated it will request that you deposit various coins. It will
then identify the coin and outpulse the appropriate red box signal. The coins are usually returned when you hang up.
To make sure that there is actually money in the fone, the co initiates a "ground test" at various times to determine if
a coin is actually in the fone. This is why you must deposit at least a nickel in order to use a red box!
Green Boxes:
Paying the initial rate in order to use a red box (on certain fortresses) left a sour taste in many red boxer's mouths
thus the green box was invented. The green box generates useful tones such as coin collect, coin return, and
ringback. These are the tones that acts or the tsps operator would send to The co when appropriate. Unfortunately,
the green box cannot be used at a fortress station but it must be used by the called party.
Here are the tones:
Coin Collect 700 + 1100 Hz
Coin Return 1100 + 1700 Hz
Ringback 700 + 1700 Hz
Before the called party sends any of these tones, an operator released signal should be sent to alert the MF
detectors at the co. This can be accomplished by sending 900 + 1500 hz or a single 2600 hz wink (90 ms) followed
by a 60 ms gap and then the appropriate signal for at least 900 Ms.
Also, do not forget that the initial rate is collected shortly before the 3 minute period is up. Incidentally, once the
above MF tones for collecting and returning coins reach the co, they are converted into an appropriate dc pulse (-130
volts for return & +130 volts for collect). This pulse is then sent down the tip to the fortress. This causes the coin relay
to either return or collect the coins. The alleged "t-network" takes advantage of this information. When a pulse for
coin collect (+130 vdc) is sent down the line, it must be grounded somewhere. This is usually either the yellow or
black wire. Thus, if the wires are exposed, these wires can be cut to prevent the pulse from being grounded. When
the three minute initial period is almost up, make sure that the black & yellow wires are severed; then hang up, wait
about 15 seconds in case of a second pulse, reconnect the wires, pick up the fone, hang up again, and if all goes
well it should be "jackpot" time.
Physical Attack:
A typical fortress weighs roughly 50 lbs. With an empty coin box. Most of this is accounted for in the armor plating.
Why all the security? Well, Bell contributes it to the following: "social changes during the 1960's made the multislot
coin station a prime target for: vandalism, strong arm robbery, fraud, and theft of service. This brought about the
introduction of the more rugged single slot coin station and a new environment for coin service." As for picking the
lock, I will quote Mr. Phelps: "We often fantasize about 'picking the lock' or 'getting a master key.' Well, you can forget
about it. I don't like to discourage people, but it will save you from wasting a lot of our time--time which can be put to
better use (heh, heh)." As for physical attack, the coin plate is secured on all four side by hardened steel bolts which
pass through two
slots each. These bolts are in turn interlocked by the main lock. One phreak I know did manage to take one of the
'mothers' home (which was attached to a piece of plywood at a construction site; otherwise, the permanent ones are
a bitch to detach from the wall!). It took him almost ten hours to open the coin box using a power drill, sledge
hammers, and crowbars (which was empty -- perhaps next time, he will deposit a coin first to hear if it slushes down
nicely or hits the empty bottom with a clunk.)
Taking the fone offers a higher margin of success. Although this may be difficult often requiring brute force and there
has been several cases of back axles being lost trying to take down a fone! A quick and dirty way to open the coin
box is by using a shotgun. In Detroit, after ecologists cleaned out a municipal pond, they found 168 coin phones
rifled. In colder areas, such as Canada, some shrewd people tape up the fones using duct tape, pour in water, and
come back the next day when the water will have froze thus expanding and cracking the fone open. In one case,
"unauthorized coin collectors" where caught when they brought $6,000 in change to a bank and the bank became
suspicious... At any rate, the main lock is an eight level tumbler located on the right side of the coin box. This lock
has 390,625 possible positions (5 ^ 8, since there are 8 tumblers each with 5 possible positions) thus it is highly pick
resistant! The lock is held in place by 4 screws. If there is sufficient clearance to the right of the fone, it is conceivable
to punch out the screws using the drilling pattern below (provided by Alexander Muddy in tap #32):
!! ^
!! !
! 1- 3/16 " !! !
!<--- --->!! 1-«"
-------------------- !
! ! !! ! !
! (+) (+)-! -----------
---! !! ! ^
! ! !! ! !
! ! (Z) !! ! !
! ! !! ! 2-3/16"
---! !! ! !
! (+) (+) ! !
! !! ! !
-------------------- -----------
!!
!!
(Z) KEYHOLE (+) SCREWS
!!
After this is accomplished, the lock can be pushed backwards disengaging the lock from the cover plate. The four
bolts of the cover plate can then be retracted by turning the bolt works with a simple key in the shape of the hole on
the coin plate (see diagram below). Of course, there are other methods and drilling patterns.
_
! !
( )
!_!
[ROUGHLY]
DIAGRAM OF COVER PLATE KEYHOLE
The top cover uses a similar, but not as strong locking method with the keyhole depicted above on the top left hide
and a regular lock (probably tumbler also) on the top right-hand side. It is interesting to experiment with the coin
chute and the fortresses own "red box" which bell didn't have the balls to color red.
Miscellaneous:
In a few areas (rural & Canada), post-pay service exists. With this type of service, the mouthpiece is cut off until the
caller deposits money when the called party answers. This also allows for free calls to weather and other dial-it
services! Recently, 2600 magazine announced the clear box which consists of a telephone pickup coil and a small
amp. It is based on the principal that the receiver is also a weak transmitter and that by amplifying your signal you
can talk via the transmitter thus avoiding costly telephone charges! Most fortresses are found in the 9xxx area. Under
former bell areas, they usually start at 98xx (right below the 99xx official series) and move downward.
Since the line, not the fone, determines whether or not a deposit must be made, dtf & charge-a-call fones make great
extensions! Finally, fortress fones allow for a new hobby--instruction plate collecting. All that is required is a flat-head
screwdriver and a pair of needle-nose pliers. Simply use the screwdriver to lift underneath the plate so that you can
grab it with the pliers and yank downwards. I would suggest covering the tips of the pliers with electrical tape to
prevent scratching. Ten cent plates are definitely becoming a "rarity!"
Fortress security:
While a lonely fortress may seem the perfect target, beware! The gestapo has been known to stake out fortresses for
as long as 6 years according to the grass roots quarterly. To avoid any problems, do not use the same fones
repeatedly for boxing, calling cards, & other experiments. The Telco knows how much money should be in the coin
box and when its not there they tend to get perturbed (Read: Pissed Off).
42. Black Box Plans by The Jolly Roger
Introduction:
At any given time, the voltage running through your phone is about 20 Volts. When someone calls you, this voltage
goes up to 48 Volts and rings the bell. When you answer, the voltage goes down to about 10 Volts. The phone
company pays attention to this. When the voltage drops to 10, they start billing the person who called you.
Function:
The Black Box keeps the voltage going through your phone at 36 Volts, so that it never reaches 10 Volts. The phone
company is thus fooled into thinking you never answered the phone and does not bill the caller. However, after about
a half hour the phone company will get suspicious and disconnect your line for about 10 seconds.
Materials:
1 1.8K « Watt Resistor
1 1«V LED
1 SPST Switch
Procedure:
1.Open your phone by loosening the two screws on the bottom and lifting the case off.
2.There should be three wires: Red, Green, and Yellow. We'll be working with the Red Wire.
3.Connect the following in parallel:
The Resistor and LED.
The SPST Switch.
In other words, you should end up with this:
(Red Wire)
!---/\/\/\--O--!
(Line)-----! !-----(Phone)
!-----_/_------!
/\/\/\ = Resistor
O = LED
_/_ = SPST
Use:
The SPST Switch is the On/Off Switch of the Black Box. When the box is off, your phone behaves normally. When
the box is on and your phone rings, the LED flashes. When you answer, the LED stays on and the voltage is kept at
36V, so the calling party doesn't get charged. When the box is on, you will not get a dial tone and thus cannot make
calls. Also remember that calls are limited to half an hour.
PS Due to new Fone Company switching systems & the like, this may or may not work in your area. If you live in
Bumfuck Kentucky, then try this out. I make no guarantees! (I never do...)
43. The Infamous Blotto Box!! by The Jolly Roger
(I bet that no one has the balls to build this one!)
Finally, it is here! What was first conceived as a joke to fool the innocent
phreakers around America has finally been conceived! Well, for you people who are unenlightened about the Blotto
Box, here is a brief summery of a legend.
The Blotto Box
For years now every pirate has dreamed of the Blotto Box. It was at first made as a joke to mock more ignorant
people into thinking that the function of it actually was possible. Well, if you are The Voltage Master, it is possible.
Originally conceived by King Blotto of much fame, the Blotto Box is finally available to the public.
NOTE: Jolly Roger can not be responsible for the information disclosed in the file! This file is strictly for informational
purposes and should not be actually built and used! Usage of this electronical impulse machine could have the
severe results listed below and could result in high federal prosecution! Again, I TAKE NO RESPONSIBILITY! All
right, now that that is cleared up, here is the basis of the box and it's function.
The Blotto Box is every phreaks dream... you could hold AT&T down on its knee's with this device. Because, quite
simply, it can turn off the phone lines everywhere. Nothing. Blotto. No calls will be allowed out of an area code, and
no calls will be allowed in. No calls can be made inside it for that matter. As long as the switching system stays the
same, this box will not stop at a mere area code. It will stop at nothing. The electrical impulses that emit from this box
will open every line. Every line will ring and ring and ring... the voltage will never be cut off until the box/generator is
stopped. This is no 200 volt job, here. We are talking GENERATOR. Every phone line will continue to ring, and
people close to the box may be electrocuted if they pick up the phone. But, the Blotto Box can be stopped by merely
cutting of the line or generator. If they are cut off then nothing will emit any longer. It will take a while for the box to
calm back down again, but that is merely a superficial aftereffect. Once again: Construction and use of this box is not
advised! The Blotto Box will continue as long as there is electricity to continue with. OK, that is what it does, now,
here are some interesting things for you to do with it...
Blotto Functions/Installing
Once you have installed your Blotto, there is no turning back. The following are the instructions for construction and
use of this box. Please read and heed all warnings in the above section before you attempt to construct this box.
Materials:
A Honda portable generator or a main power outlet like in a stadium or some such place.
400 volt rated coupler that splices a female plug into a phone line jack.
A meter of voltage to attach to the box itself.
A green base (i.e. one of the nice boxes about 3' by 4' that you see around in your neighborhood. They are the
main switch boards and would be a more effective line to start with or a regular phone jack (not your own, and
not in your area code!)
A soldering iron and much solder.
A remote control or long wooden pole.
Now. You must have guessed the construction from that. If not, here goes, I will explain in detail. Take the Honda
Portable Generator and all of the other listed equipment and go out and hunt for a green base. Make sure it is one on
the ground or hanging at head level from a pole, not the huge ones at the top of telephone poles. Open it up with
anything convenient, if you are two feeble then fuck, don't try this. Take a look inside... you are hunting for colorcoordinating
lines of green and red. Now, take out your radio shack cord and rip the meter thing off. Replace it with
the voltage meter about. A good level to set the voltage to is about 1000 volts. Now, attach the voltage meter to the
cord and set the limit for one thousand. Plug the other end of the cord into the generator. Take the phone jack and
splice the jack part off. Open it up and match the red and green wires with the other red and green wires.
NOTE: If you just had the generator on and have done this in the correct order, you will be a crispy critter. Keep the
generator off until you plan to start it up. Now, solder those lines together carefully. Wrap duck tape or insulation tape
around all of the wires. Now, place the remote control right on to the startup of the generator. If you have the long
pole, make sure it is very long and stand back as far away as you can get and reach the pole over.
NOTICE: If you are going right along with this without reading the file first, you still realize now that your area code is
about to become null! Then, getting back, switch the pole/remote control and run for your damn life. Anywhere, just
get away from it. It will be generating so much electricity that if you stand to close you will kill yourself. The generator
will smoke, etc. but will not stop. You are now killing your area code, because all of that energy is spreading through
all of the phone lines around you in every direction.
Have a nice day!
The Blotto Box: Aftermath
Well, that is the plans for the most devastating and ultimately deadly
box ever created. My hat goes off to: King Blotto (for the original idea).
44. Blowgun by The Jolly Roger
In this article I shall attempt to explain the use and manufacture of a powerful blow-gun and making darts for the gun.
The possession of the blow gun described in this article IS a felony. So be careful where you use it. I don't want to get
you all busted.
Needed:
1.Several strands of yarn (About 2 inches a-piece).
2.A regular pencil.
3.A 2 ¬ inch long needle (hopefully with a beaded head. If not obtainable, wrap tape around end of needle.
4.¬ foot pipe. (PVC or Aluminum) Half a inch in diameter.
Constructing the dart:
1.Carefully twist and pull the metal part (Along with eraser) of the pencil till it comes off.
2. Take Pin and start putting about 5-7 Strands of yarn on the pin. Then push them up to the top of the pin. But not
over the head of the pin (or the tape).
3.Push pin through the hollow part of the head where the pencil was before.
4.That should for a nice looking dart. (see illustration)
#####
>>>>>-----/ # is the yarn
> is the head of the pencil
- is the pin it-self
/ is the head of the pin
Using the Darts:
1.Now take the finished dart and insert it in the tube (if it is too small put on more yarn.)
2.Aim the tube at a door, wall, sister, ect.
3.Blow on the end of the pipe.
4.Sometimes the end of the pipe may be sharp. When this happens I suggest you wrap it with some black electrician
tape. It should feel a lot better.
45. Brown Box Plans by The Jolly Roger
This is a fairly simple mod that can be made to any phone. All it does is allow you to take any two lines in your house
and create a party line. So far I have not heard of anyone who has any problems with it. There is one thing that you
will notice when you are one of the two people who is called by a person with a brown box. The other person will
sound a little bit faint. I could overcome this with some amplifiers but then there wouldn't be very many of these made
[Why not?]. I think the convenience of having two people on the line at once will make up for any minor volume loss.
Here is the diagram:
KEY:___________________________________
| PART | SYMBOL |
|---------------------------------|
| BLACK WIRE | * |
| YELLOW WIRE | = |
| RED WIRE | + |
| GREEN WIRE | - |
| SPDT SWITCH | _/_ |
| _/_ |
| VERTICAL WIRE | | |
| HORIZONTAL WIRE | _ |
-----------------------------------
* = - +
* = - +
* = - +
* = - +
* = - +
* ==_/_- +
*******_/_++++++
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
|_____PHONE____|
46. Calcium Carbide Bomb by The Jolly Roger
This is EXTREMELY DANGEROUS. Exercise extreme caution.... Obtain some calcium carbide. This is the stuff that
is used in carbide lamps and can be found at nearly any hardware store. Take a few pieces of this stuff (it looks like
gravel) and put it in a glass jar with some water. Put a lid on tightly. The carbide will react with the water to produce
acetylene carbonate which is similar to the gas used in cutting torches. Eventually the glass with explode from
internal pressure. If you leave a burning rag nearby, you will get a nice fireball!
47. More Ways to Send a Car to Hell by The Jolly Roger
Due to a lot of compliments, I have written an update to file #14. I have left the original intact. This expands upon the
original idea, and could be well called a sequel.
How to have phun with someone else's car. If you really detest someone, and I mean detest, here's a few tips on
what to do in your spare time. Move the windshield wiper blades, and insert and glue tacks. The tacks make lovely
designs. If your "friend" goes to school with you, Just before he comes out of school. Light a lighter and then put it
directly underneath his car door handle. Wait...Leave...Listen. When you hear a loud "shit!", you know he made it to
his car in time. Remove his muffler and pour approximately 1 Cup of gas in it. Put the muffler back, then wait till their
car starts. Then you have a cigarette lighter. A 30 foot long cigarette lighter. This one is effective, and any fool can
do it. Remove the top air filter. That's it! Or a oldie but goodie: sugar in the gas tank. Stuff rags soaked in gas up the
exhaust pipe. Then you wonder why your "friend" has trouble with his/her lungs. Here's one that takes time and
many friends. Take his/her car then break into their house and reassemble it, in their living or bedroom. Phun eh? If
you're into engines, say eeni mine moe and point to something and remove it. They wonder why something doesn't
work. There are so many others, but the real good juicy ones come by thinking hard.
48. Ripping off Change Machines by The Jolly Roger
Have you ever seen one of those really big changer machines in airports Laundromats or arcades that dispense
change when you put in your 1 or 5 dollar bill? Well then, here is an article for you.
1.Find the type of change machine that you slide in your bill length wise, not the type where you put the bill in a tray
and then slide the tray in!!!
2.After finding the right machine, get a $1 or $5 bill. Start crumpling up into a ball. Then smooth out the bill, now it
should have a very wrinkly surface.
3.Now the hard part. You must tear a notch in the bill on the left side about « inch below the little 1 dollar symbol (See
Figure).
4.If you have done all of this right then take the bill and go out the machine. Put the bill in the machine and wait.
What should happen is: when you put your bill in the machine it thinks everything is fine. When it gets to the part
of the bill with the notch cut out, the machine will reject the bill and (if you have done it right) give you the change
at the same time!!! So, you end up getting your bill back, plus the change!! It might take a little practice, but once
you get the hang of it, you can get a lot of money!
\-----Make notch here. About «" down from the 1.
49. Clear Box Plans by The Jolly Roger
The clear box is a new device which has just been invented that can be used throughout Canada and rural United
States. The clear box works on "PostPay" payphones (fortress fones). Those are the payphones that don't require
payment until after the connection is established. You pick up the fone, get a dial tone, dial your number, and then
insert your money after the person answers. If you don't deposit the money then you can not speak to the person on
the other end because your mouth piece is cut off but not the ear-piece. (obviously these phones are nice for free
calls to weather or time or other such recordings). All you must do is to go to your nearby Radio Shack, or electronics
store, and get a four-transistor amplifier and a telephone suction cup induction pick-up. The induction pick-up would
be hooked up as it normally would to record a conversation, except that it would be plugged into the output of the
amplifier and a microphone would be hooked to the input. So when the party that is being called answers, the caller
could speak through the little microphone instead. His voice then goes through the amplifier and out the induction
coil, and into the back of the receiver where it would then be broadcast through the phone lines and the other party
would be able to hear the caller. The Clear Box thus 'clears up' the problem of not being heard. Luckily, the line will
not be cut-off after a certain amount of time because it will wait forever for the coins to be put in. The biggest
advantage for all of us about this new clear box is the fact that this type of payphone will most likely become very
common. Due to a few things: 1st, it is a cheap way of getting the DTF, dial-tone-first service, 2nd, it doesn't require
any special equipment, (for the phone company) This payphone will work on any phone line. Usually a payphone line
is different, but this is a regular phone line and it is set up so the phone does all the charging, not the company.
50. CNA List by The Jolly Roger
NPA TEL NUMBER NPA TEL NUMBER NPA TEL NUMBER
201 201-676-7070 415 415-543-6374 709 *** NONE ***
202 304-343-7016 416 416-443-0542 712 402-580-2255
203 203-789-6815 417 314-721-6626 713 713-861-7194
204 204-949-0900 418 514-725-2491 714 818-501-7251
205 205-988-7000 419 614-464-0123 715 608-252-6932
206 206-382-5124 501 405-236-6121 716 518-471-8111
207 617-787-5300 502 502-583-2861 717 412-633-5600
208 303-293-8777 503 206-382-5124 718 518-471-8111
209 415-543-2861 504 504-245-5330 801 303-293-8777
212 518-471-8111 505 303-293-8777 802 617-787-5300
213 415-781-5271 506 506-648-3041 803 912-784-0440
214 214-464-7400 507 402-580-2255 804 304-344-7935
215 412-633-5600 509 206-382-5124 805 415-543-2861
216 614-464-0123 512 512-828-2501 806 512-828-2501
217 217-525-5800 513 614-464-0123 807 416-443-0542
218 402-580-2255 514 514-725-2491 808 212-334-4336
219 317-265-4834 515 402-580-2255 809 212-334-4336
301 304-343-1401 516 518-471-8111 812 317-265-4834
302 412-633-5600 517 313-223-8690 813 813-228-7871
303 303-293-8777 518 518-471-8111 814 412-633-5600
304 304-344-8041 519 416-443-0542 815 217-525-5800
305 912-784-0440 601 601-961-8139 816 816-275-2782
306 306-347-2878 602 303-293-8777 817 214-464-7400
307 303-293-8777 603 617-787-5300 818 415-781-5271
308 402-580-2255 604 604-432-2996 819 514-725-2491
309 217-525-5800 605 402-580-2255 901 615-373-5791
312 312-796-9600 606 502-583-2861 902 902-421-4110
313 313-223-8690 607 518-471-8111 904 912-784-0440
314 314-721-6626 608 608-252-6932 906 313-223-8690
315 518-471-8111 609 201-676-7070 907 *** NONE ***
316 816-275-2782 612 402-580-2255 912 912-784-0440
317 317-265-4834 613 416-443-0542 913 816-275-2782
318 504-245-5330 614 614-464-0123 914 518-471-8111
319 402-580-2255 615 615-373-5791 915 512-828-2501
401 617-787-5300 616 313-223-8690 916 415-543-2861
402 402-580-2255 617 617-787-5300 918 405-236-6121
403 403-425-2652 618 217-525-5800 919 912-784-0440
404 912-784-0440 619 818-501-7251 900 201-676-7070
405 405-236-6121 701 402-580-2255
406 303-293-8777 702 415-543-2861
408 415-543-6374 703 304-344-7935
409 713-861-7194 704 912-784-0440
412 413-633-5600 705 416-979-3469
413 617-787-5300 706 *** NONE ***
414 608-252-6932 707 415-543-6374
51. Electronic Terrorism by The Jolly Roger
1.It starts when a big, dumb lummox rudely insults you. Being of a rational, intelligent disposition, you wisely choose
to avoid a (direct) confrontation. But as he laughs in your face, you smile inwardly---your revenge is already
planned.
2.Follow your victim to his locker, car, or house. Once you have chosen your target site, lay low for a week or more,
letting your anger boil.
3.In the mean time, assemble your versatile terrorist kit(details below.)
4.Plant your kit at the designated target site on a Monday morning between the hours of 4:00 am and 6:00 am.
Include a calm, suggestive note that quietly hints at the possibility of another attack. Do not write it by hand! An
example of an effective note: "don't be such a jerk, or the next one will take off your hand. Have a nice day."
Notice how the calm tone instills fear. As if written by a homicidal psychopath.
5.Choose a strategic location overlooking the target site. Try to position yourself in such a way that you can see his
facial contortions.
6.Sit back and enjoy the fireworks! Assembly of the versatile, economic, and effective terrorist kit #1: the parts you'll
need are:
4 AA batteries
1 9-volt battery
1 SPDT mini relay (radio shack)
1 rocket engine(smoke bomb or m-80)
1 solar igniter (any hobby store)
1 9-volt battery connector
1.Take the 9-volt battery and wire it through the relay's coil. This circuit should also include a pair of contacts that
when separated cut off this circuit. These contacts should be held together by trapping them between the locker,
mailbox, or car door. Once the door is opened, the contacts fall apart and the 9-volt circuit is broken, allowing the
relay to fall to the closed position thus closing the ignition circuit. (If all this is confusing take a look at the
schematic below.)
2.Take the 4 AA batteries and wire them in succession. Wire the positive terminal of one to the negative terminal of
another, until all four are connected except one positive terminal and one negative terminal. Even though the
four AA batteries only combine to create 6 volts, the increase in amperage is necessary to activate the solar
igniter quickly and effectively.
3.Take the battery pack (made in step 2) and wire one end of it to the relay's single pole and the other end to one
prong of the solar igniter. Then wire the other prong of the solar igniter back to the open position on the relay.
4.Using double sided carpet tape mount the kit in his locker, mailbox, or car door. And last, insert the solar igniter into
the rocket engine (smoke bomb or m-80).
Your kit is now complete!
---------><---------
I (CONTACTS) I
I I
I - (BATTERY)
I ---
I I
I (COIL) I
------///////-------
/-----------
/ I
/ I
/ I
(SWITCH) I I
I I
I --- (BATTERY)
I - ( PACK )
I ---
I I
I I
---- -----
I I
*
(SOLAR IGNITER)
52. How to Start A Conference w/o 2600hz or M-F by The Jolly Roger
This method of starting the conf. Depends on your ability to bullshit the operator into dialing a number which can only
be reached with an operator's M-F tones. When bullshitting the operator remember operator's are not hired to think
but to do.
Here is a step-by-step way to the conf.:
Call the operator through a pbx or extender, you could just call one Through your line but I wouldn't recommend it.
Say to the operator: TSPS maintenance engineer, ring-forward to 213+080+1100, position release, thank you.(she
will probably ask you for the number again) Definitions:
Ring-forward instructs her to dial the number.
Position release instructs her to release the trunk after she has dialed the number.
+ - remember to say 213plus080 plus1100.
3. When you are connected with the conf. You will here a whistle blow twice and a recording asking you for your
operator number. Dial in any five digits and hit the pounds sign a couple of times. Simply dial in the number of the
billing line ect. When the recording ask for it. When in the control mode of the conf. Hit '6' to transfer control. Hit '001'
to reenter the number of conferee's and time amount which you gave when you stared the conf. Remember the size
can be from 2-59 conferee's. I have not found out the 'lengths' limits.
53. How to Make Dynamite by The Jolly Roger
Dynamite is nothing more than just nitroglycerin and a stabilizing agent to make it much safer to use. The numbers
are percentages, be sure to mix these carefully and be sure to use the exact amounts. These percentages are in
weight ratio, not volume.
Number Ingredients Amount
1st Nitroglycerin 32%
Sodium Nitrate 28%
Woodmeal 10%
Ammonium Oxalate 29%
Guncotton 1%
2nd Nitroglycerin 24%
Potassium Nitrate 9%
Sodium Nitrate 56%
Woodmeal 9%
Ammonium Oxalate 2%
3rd Nitroglycerin 35«%
Potassium Nitrate 44«%
Woodmeal 6%
Guncotton 2«%
Vaseline 5«%
Powdered Charcoal 6%
4th Nitroglycerin 25%
Potassium Nitrate 26%
Woodmeal 34%
Barium Nitrate 5%
Starch 10%
5th Nitroglycerin 57%
Potassium Nitrate 19%
Woodmeal 9%
Ammonium Oxalate 12%
Guncotton 3%
6th Nitroglycerin 18%
Sodium Nitrate 70%
Woodmeal 5«%
Potassium Chloride 4«%
Chalk 2%
7th Nitroglycerin 26%
Woodmeal 40%
Barium Nitrate 32%
Sodium Carbonate 2%
8th Nitroglycerin 44%
Woodmeal 12%
Anhydrous Sodium Sulfate 44%
9th Nitroglycerin 24%
Potassium Nitrate 32«%
Woodmeal 33«%
Ammonium Oxalate 10%
10th Nitroglycerin 26%
Potassium Nitrate 33%
Woodmeal 41%
11th Nitroglycerin 15%
Sodium Nitrate 62.9%
Woodmeal 21.2%
Sodium Carbonate .9%
12th Nitroglycerin 35%
Sodium Nitrate 27%
Woodmeal 10%
Ammonium Oxalate 1%
13th Nitroglycerin 32%
Potassium Nitrate 27%
Woodmeal 10%
Ammonium Oxalate 30%
Guncotton 1%
14th Nitroglycerin 33%
Woodmeal 10.3%
Ammonium Oxalate 29%
Guncotton .7%
Potassium Perchloride 27%
15th Nitroglycerin 40%
Sodium Nitrate 45%
Woodmeal 15%
16th Nitroglycerin 47%
Starch 50%
Guncotton 3%
17th Nitroglycerin 30%
Sodium Nitrate 22.3%
Woodmeal 40«%
Potassium Chloride 7.2%
18th Nitroglycerin 50%
Sodium Nitrate 32.6%
Woodmeal 17%
Ammonium Oxalate .4%
19th Nitroglycerin 23%
Potassium Nitrate 27«%
Woodmeal 37%
Ammonium Oxalate 8%
Barium Nitrate 4%
Calcium Carbonate «%
If you can't seem to get one or more of the ingredients try another one. If you still can't, you can always buy small
amounts from your school, or maybe from various chemical companies. When you do that, be sure to say as little as
possible, if during the school year, and they ask, say it's for a experiment for school.
54. Auto Exhaust Flame Thrower by The Jolly Roger
For this one, all you need is a car, a spark plug, ignition wire and a switch. Install the spark plug into the last four or
five inches of the tail pipe by drilling a hole that the plug can screw into easily. Attach the wire (this is regular
insulated wire) to one side of the switch and to the spark plug. The other side of the switch is attached to the positive
terminal on the battery. With the car running, simply hit the switch and watch the flames fly!!! Again be careful that no
one is behind you! I have seen some of these flames go 20 feet!!!
55. Breaking into BBS Express by The Jolly Roger
If you have high enough access on any BBS Express BBS you can get the Sysop's password without any problems
and be able to log on as him and do whatever you like. Download the Pass file, delete the whole BBS, anything. Its
all a matter of uploading a text file and downloading it from the BBS. You must have high enough access to see new
uploads to do this. If you can see a file you just uploaded you have the ability to break into the BBS in a few easy
steps. Why am I telling everyone this when I run BBS Express myself? Well there is one way to stop this from
happening and I want other Sysops to be aware of it and not have it happen to them. Breaking in is all based on the
MENU function of BBS Express. Express will let you create a menu to display different text files by putting the word
MENU at the top of any text file and stating what files are to be displayed. But due to a major screw up by Mr.
Ledbetter you can use this MENU option to display the USERLOG and the Sysop's Passwords or anything else you
like. I will show you how to get the Sysop's pass and therefore log on as the Sysop. BBs Express Sysop's have 2
passwords. One like everyone else gets in the form of X1XXX, and a Secondary password to make it harder to hack
out the Sysops pass. The Secondary pass is found in a file called SYSDATA.DAT. This file must be on drive 1 and is
therefore easy to get.
All you have to do is upload this simple Text file:
MENU
1
D1:SYSDATA.DAT
Rip-off time!
After you upload this file you download it non-Xmodem. Stupid Express thinks
it is displaying a menu and you will see this:
Rip-off time!
Selection [0]:
Just hit 1 and Express will display the SYSDATA.DAT file. OPPASS is where the Sysop's Secondary pass will be.
D1:USERLOG.DAT is where you will find the name and Drive number of the USERLOG.DAT file. The Sysop might
have renamed this file or put it in a Subdirectory or even on a different drive. I Will Assume he left it as
D1:USERLOG.DAT. The other parts of this file tell you where the .HLP screens are and where the LOG is saved and
all the Download path names.
Now to get the Sysop's primary pass you upload a text file like this:
MENU
1
D1:USERLOG.DAT
Breaking into Bedwetter's BBS
Again you then download this file non-Xmodem and you will see:
Breaking into Bedwetter's BBS
Selection [0]:
You then hit 1 and the long USERLOG.DAT file comes flying at you. The Sysop is the first entry in this very long file
so it is easy. You will see:
SYSOP'S NAME X1XXX
You should now have his 2 passwords.
There is only one easy way out of this that I can think of, and that is to make all new uploads go to SYSOP level
(Level 9) access only. This way nobody can pull off what I just explained. I feel this is a major Bug on Mr. Ledbetter's
part. I just don't know why no one had thought of it before. I would like to give credit to Redline for the message he
left on Modem Hell telling about this problem, and also to Unka for his ideas and input about correcting it.
56. Firebombs by The Jolly Roger
Most fire bombs are simply gasoline filled bottles with a fuel soaked rag in the mouth (the bottle's mouth, not yours).
The original Molotov cocktail, and still about the best, was a mixture of one part gasoline and one part motor oil. The
oil helps it to cling to what it splatters on. Some use one part roofing tar and one part gasoline. Fire bombs have been
found which were made by pouring melted wax into gasoline.
57. Fuse Ignition Bomb by The Jolly Roger
A four strand homemade fuse is used for this. It burns like fury. It is held down and concealed by a strip of bent tin cut
from a can. The exposed end of the fuse is dipped into the flare igniter. To use this one, you light the fuse and hold
the fire bomb until the fuse has burned out of sight under the tin. Then throw it and when it breaks, the burning fuse
will ignite the contents.
58. Generic Bomb by The Jolly Roger
1.Acquire a glass container.
2.Put in a few drops of gasoline.
3.Cap the top.
4.Now turn the container around to coat the inner surfaces and then evaporates.
5.Add a few drops of potassium permanganate (Get this stuff from a snake bite kit)
6.The bomb is detonated by throwing against a solid object.
After throwing this thing, run like hell. This thing packs about « stick of dynamite.
59. Green Box Plans by the Jolly Roger
Paying the initial rate in order to use a red box (on certain fortresses) left a sour taste in many red boxers mouths,
thus the green box was invented. The green box generates useful tones such as COIN COLLECT, COIN RETURN,
AND RINGBACK. These are the tones that ACTS or the TSPS operator would send to the CO when appropriate.
Unfortunately, the green box cannot be used at the fortress station but must be used by the CALLED party.
Here are the tones:
COIN COLLECT 700+1100hz
COIN RETURN 1100+1700hz
RINGBACK 700+1700hz
Before the called party sends any of these tones, an operator release signal should be sent to alert the MF detectors
at the CO. This can be done by sending 900hz + 1500hz or a single 2600 wink (90 ms.) Also do not forget that the
initial rate is collected shortly before the 3 minute period is up. Incidentally, once the above MF tones for collecting
and returning coins reach the CO, they are converted into an appropriate DC pulse (-130 volts for return and +130 for
collect). This pulse is then sent down the tip to the fortress. This causes the coin relay to either return or collect the
coins. The alleged "T-network" takes advantage of this information. When a pulse for coin collect (+130 VDC) is sent
down the line, it must be grounded somewhere. This is usually the yellow or black wire. Thus, if the wires are
exposed, these wires can be cut to prevent the pulse from being grounded. When the three minute initial period is
almost up, make sure that the black and yellow wires are severed, then hang up, wait about 15 seconds in case of a
second pulse, reconnect the wires, pick up the phone, and if all goes well, it should be "JACKPOT" time.
60. Portable Grenade Launcher by The Jolly Roger
If you have a bow, this one is for you. Remove the ferrule from an aluminum arrow, and fill the arrow with black
powder (I use grade FFFF, it burns easy)and then glue a shotshell primer into the hole left where the ferrule went.
Next, glue a BB on the primer, and you are ready to go! Make sure no one is nearby.... Little shreds of aluminum go
all over the place!!
61. Hacking Tutorial by The Jolly Roger
What is hacking?
According to popular belief the term hacker and hacking was founded at MIT it comes from the root of a hack writer,
someone who keeps "hacking" at the typewriter until he finishes the story. A computer hacker would be hacking at
the keyboard or password works.
What you need:
To hack you need a computer equipped with a modem (a device that lets you transmit data over phone lines) which
should cost you from $100 to $1200.
How do you hack?
Hacking requires two things:
1.The phone number.
2.Answer to identity elements.
How do you find the phone number?
There are three basic ways to find a computers phone number:
1.Scanning
2.Directory
3.Inside info
What is scanning?
Scanning is the process of having a computer search for a carrier tone. For example, the computer would start at
(800) 111-1111 and wait for carrier if there is none it will go on to 111-1112 etc. If there is a carrier it will record it for
future use and continue looking for more.
What is directory assistance?
This way can only be used if you know where your target computer is. For this
example say it is in menlo park, CA and the company name is Sri.
1.Dial 411 (or 415-555-1212)
2.Say "Menlo park"
3.Say "Sri"
4.Write down number
5.Ask if there are any more numbers
6.If so write them down.
7.Hang up on operator
8.Dial all numbers you were given
9.Listen for carrier tone
10.If you hear carrier tone write down number, call it on your modem and your set to hack!
62. The Basics of Hacking II by The Jolly Roger
Basics to know before doing anything, essential to your continuing career as one of the elite in the country... This
article, "The introduction to the world of hacking." is meant to help you by telling you how not to get caught, what not
to do on a computer system, what type of equipment should I know about now, and just a little on the history, past
present future, of the hacker.
Welcome to the world of hacking! We, the people who live outside of the normal rules, and have been scorned and
even arrested by those from the 'civilized world', are becoming scarcer every day. This is due to the greater fear of
what a good hacker (skill wise, no moral judgments here) can do nowadays, thus causing anti- hacker sentiment in
the masses. Also, few hackers seem to actually know about the computer systems they hack, or what equipment
they will run into on the front end, or what they could do wrong on a system to alert the 'higher' authorities who
monitor the system. This article is intended to tell you about some things not to do, even before you get on the
system. I will tell you about the new wave of front end security devices that are beginning to be used on computers. I
will attempt to instill in you a second identity, to be brought up at time of great need, to pull you out of trouble. And, by
the way, I take no, repeat, no, responsibility for what we say in this and the forthcoming articles.
Enough of the bullshit, on to the fun: after logging on your favorite bbs, you see on the high access board a phone
number! It says it's a great system to "fuck around with!" This may be true, but how many other people are going to
call the same number? So: try to avoid calling a number given to the public. This is because there are at least every
other user calling, and how many other boards will that number spread to? If you call a number far, far away, and you
plan on going through an extender or a re-seller, don't keep calling the same access number (I.E. As you would if you
had a hacker running), this looks very suspicious and can make life miserable when the phone bill comes in the mail.
Most cities have a variety of access numbers and services, so use as many as you can. Never trust a change in the
system... The 414's, the assholes, were caught for this reason: when one of them connected to the system, there was
nothing good there. The next time, there was a trek game stuck right in their way! They proceeded to play said
game for two, say two and a half hours, while telenet was tracing them! Nice job, don't you think? If anything looks
suspicious, drop the line immediately!! As in, yesterday!! The point we're trying to get across is: if you use a little
common sense, you won't get busted. Let the little kids who aren't smart enough to recognize a trap get busted, it
will take the heat off of the real hackers. Now, let's say you get on a computer
system... It looks great, checks out, everything seems fine. OK, now is when it gets more dangerous. You have to
know the computer system to know what not to do. Basically, keep away from any command something, copy a new
file into the account, or whatever! Always leave the account in the same status you logged in with. Change
*nothing*... If it isn't an account with priv's, then don't try any commands that require them! All, yes all, systems are
going to be keeping log files of what users are doing, and that will show up. It is just like dropping a trouble-card in
an ESS system, after sending that nice operator a pretty tone. Spend no excessive amounts of time on the account in
one stretch. Keep your calling to the very late night if possible, or during business hours (believe it or not!). It so
happens that there are more users on during business hours, and it is very difficult to read a log file with 60 users
doing many commands every minute. Try to avoid systems where everyone knows each other, don't try to bluff. And
above all: never act like you own the system, or are the best there is. They always grab the people who's heads
swell... There is some very interesting front end equipment around nowadays, but first let's define terms... By front
end, we mean any device that you must pass through to get at the real computer. There are devices that are made to
defeat hacker programs, and just plain old multiplexers. To defeat hacker programs, there are now devices that pick
up the phone and just sit there... This means that your device gets no carrier, thus you think there isn't a computer
on the other end. The only way around it is to detect when it was picked up. If it picks up after the same number
ring, then you know it is a hacker-defeater. These devices take a multi-digit code to let you into the system. Some
are, in fact, quite sophisticated to the point where it will also limit the user name's down, so only one name or set of
names can be valid logins after they input the code... Other devices input a number code, and then they dial back a
pre-programmed number for that code. These systems are best to leave alone, because they know someone is
playing with their phone. You may think "but I'll just reprogram the dial-back." Think again, how stupid that is... Then
they have your number, or a test loop if you were just a little smarter. If it's your number, they have your balls (if
male...), if its a loop, then you are screwed again, since those loops
are *monitored*. As for multiplexers... What a plexer is supposed to do is this:
The system can accept multiple users. We have to time share, so we'll let the front-end processor do it... Well, this is
what a multiplexer does. Usually they will ask for something like "enter class" or "line:". Usually it is programmed for a
double digit number, or a four to five letter word. There are usually a few sets of numbers it accepts, but those
numbers also set your 300/1200/2400 baud data type. These multiplexers are inconvenient at best, so not to worry. A
little about the history of hacking: hacking, by my definition, means a great knowledge of some special area. Doctors
and lawyers are hackers of a sort, by this definition. But most often, it is being used in the computer context, and
thus we have a definition of "anyone who has a great amount of computer or telecommunications knowledge." You
are not a hacker because you have a list of codes... Hacking, by my definition, has then been around only about 15
years. It started, where else but, MIT and colleges where they had computer science or electrical engineering
departments. Hackers have created some of the best computer languages, the most awesome operating systems,
and even gone on to make millions. Hacking used to have a good name, when we could honestly say "we know what
we are doing". Now it means (in the public eye): the 414's, Ron Austin, the NASA hackers, the arpanet hackers... All
the people who have been caught, have done damage, and are now going to have to face fines and sentences. Thus
we come past the moralistic crap, and to our purpose: educate the hacker community, return to the days when
people actually knew something...
63. Hacking DEC's by The Jolly Roger
In this article you will learn how to log in to dec's, logging out, and all the fun stuff to do in-between. All of this
information is based on a standard dec system. Since there are dec systems 10 and 20, and I favor, the dec 20,
there will be more info on them in this article. It just so happens that the dec 20 is also the more common of the two,
and is used by much more interesting people (if you know what I mean...) OK, the first thing you want to do when you
are receiving carrier from a dec system is to find out the format of login names. You can do this by looking at who is
on the system.
Dec=> ` (the 'exec' level prompt)
you=> sy
sy: short for sy(stat) and shows you the system status.
You should see the format of login names. A systat usually comes up in this form:
Job Line Program User
Job: The job number (not important unless you want to log them off later)
Line: What line they are on (used to talk to them...) These are both two or three digit numbers.
Program: What program are they running under? If it says 'exec' they aren't doing anything at all...
User: ahhhahhhh! This is the user name they are logged in under... Copy the format, and hack yourself outa
working code... Login format is as such:
dec=> `
you=> login username password
Username is the username in the format you saw above in the systat. After you hit the space after your username, it
will stop echoing characters back to your screen. This is the password you are typing in... Remember, people
usually use their name, their dog's name, the name of a favorite character in a book, or something like this. A few
clever people have it set to a key cluster (qwerty or asdfg). Passwords can be from 1 to 8 characters long, anything
after that is ignored. You are finally in... It would be nice to have a little help, wouldn't it? Just type a ? Or the word
help, and it will give you a whole list of topics... Some handy characters for you to know would be the control keys,
wouldn't it? Backspace on a dec 20 is rub which is 255 on your ASCII chart. On the dec 10 it is control-H. To abort a
long listing or a program, control-C works fine. Use Control-O to stop long output to the terminal. This is handy when
playing a game, but you don't want to control-C out. Control-T for the time. Control-u will kill the whole line you are
typing at the moment. You may accidentally run a program where the only way out is a control-X, so keep that in
reserve. Control-s to stop listing, control-Q to continue on both systems. Is your terminal having trouble?? Like, it
pauses for no reason, or it doesn't backspace right? This is because both systems support many terminals, and you
haven't told it what yours is yet... You are using a VT05 so you need to tell it you are one.
Dec=> `
you=> information terminal
-or-
You=> info
(This shows you what your terminal is set up as.)
Dec=>all sorts of shit, then the `
you=> set ter vt05
(This sets your terminal type to VT05.)
Now let's see what is in the account (here after abbreviated acct.) that you have hacked onto. Say:
=> dir
(Short for directory.)
It shows you what the user of the code has save to the disk. There should be a format like this: xxxxx.Oooxxxxx is
the file name, from 1 to 20 characters long. Ooo is the file type, one of: exe, txt, dat, bas, cmd and a few others that
are system dependant. Exe is a compiled program that can be run (just by typing its name at the `)
Txt is a text file, which you can see by typing:
=>type xxxxx.Txt
Do not try to:
=>type xxxxx.Exe
(This is very bad for your terminal and will tell you absolutely nothing.)
Dat is data they have saved.
Bas is a basic program, you can have it typed out for you.
Cmd is a command type file, a little too complicated to go into here. Try:
=>take xxxxx.Cmd
By the way, there are other users out there who may have files you can use.
(Gee, why else am I here?)
=> dir <*.*> (Dec 20)
=> dir [*,*] (Dec 10)
* is a wildcard, and will allow you to access the files on other accounts if the user has it set for public access. If it isn't
set for public access, then you won't see it. To run that program:
dec=> `
you=> username program-name
Username is the directory you saw the file listed under, and file name was what else but the file name? ** You are
not alone ** remember, you said (at the very start) sy short for systat, and how we said this showed the other users
on the system? Well, you can talk to them, or at least send a message to anyone you see listed in a systat. You can
do this by:
dec=> the user list (from your systat)
you=> talkusername (Dec 20)
send username (Dec 10)
Talk allows you and them immediate transmission of whatever you/they type to be sent to the other. Send only allow
you one message to be sent, and send, they will send back to you, with talk you can just keep going. By the way, you
may be noticing with the talk command that what you type is still acted upon by the parser (control program). To
avoid the constant error messages type either:
you=> ;your message
you=> rem your message
the semi-colon tells the parser that what follows is just a comment. Rem is short for 'remark' and ignores you from
then on until you type a control-Z or control-C, at which point it puts you back in the exec mode. To break the
connection from a talk command type:
you=> break priv's:
If you happen to have privs, you can do all sorts of things. First of all, you have to activate those privs.
You=> enable
This gives you a $ prompt, and allows you to do this: whatever you can do to your own directory you can now do to
any other directory. To create a new acct. Using your privs, just type:
=>build username
If username is old, you can edit it, if it is new, you can define it to be whatever you wish. Privacy means nothing to a
user with privs. By the way, there are various levels of privs: operator, wheel, cia. Wheel is the most powerful, being
that he can log in from anywhere and have his powers. Operators have their power because they are at a special
terminal allowing them the privs. Cia is short for 'confidential information access', which allows you a low level
amount of privs. Not to worry though, since you can read the system log file, which also has the passwords to all the
other accounts.
To de-activate your privs, type:
you=> disable
when you have played your greedy heart out, you can finally leave the
system with the command:
=>logout
This logs the job you are using off the system (there may be varients of this such as kjob, or killjob.)
64. Harmless Bombs by The Jolly Roger
To all those who do not wish to inflict bodily damage on their victims but only terror. These are weapons that should
be used from high places.
1.The Flour Bomb
Take a wet paper towel and pour a given amount of baking flour in the center. Then wrap it up and put on a rubber
band to keep it together. When thrown it will fly well but when it hits, it covers the victim with the flower or causes
a big puff of flour which will put the victim in terror since as far as they are concerned, some strange white
powder is all over them. This is a cheap method of terror and for only the cost of a roll of paper towels and a bag
of flour you and your friends can have loads of fun watching people flee in panic.
2.Smoke Bomb Projectile
All you need is a bunch of those little round smoke bombs and a wrist rocket or any sling-shot. Shoot the smoke
bombs and watch the terror since they think it will blow up!
3.Rotten Eggs (Good ones)
Take some eggs and get a sharp needle and poke a small hole in the top of each one. Then let them sit in a warm
place for about a week. Then you've got a bunch of rotten eggs that will only smell when they hit.
4.Glow in the Dark Terror
Take one of those tubes of glow in the dark stuff and pour the stuff on whatever you want to throw and when it gets
on the victim, they think it's some deadly chemical or a radioactive substance so they run in total panic. This
works especially well with flower bombs since a gummy, glowing substance gets all over the victim.
5.Fizzling Panic
Take a baggy of a water-baking soda solution and seal it. (Make sure there is no air in it since the solution will
form a gas and you don't want it to pop on you.) Then put it in a bigger plastic bag and fill it with vinegar and seal
it. When thrown, the two substances will mix and cause a violently bubbling substance to go all over the victim.
65. Breaking Into Houses by The Jolly Roger
Okay You Need:
1.Tear Gas or Mace
2.A BB/Pellet Gun
3.An Ice Pick
4.Thick Gloves
What You Do Is:
1.Call the house, or ring doorbell, to find out if they're home.
2.If they're not home then...
3.Jump over the fence or walk through gate (whatever).
4.If you see a dog give him the mace or tear gas.
5.Put the gloves on!!!!!!!
6.Shoot the BB gun slightly above the window locks.
7.Push the ice-pick through the hole (made by the BB gun).
8.Enter window.
9.FIRST...Find the LIVING ROOM. (there're neat things there!).
10.Goto the bedroom to get a pillow case. Put the goodies in the pillow case.
11.Get out <-* FAST! -*>
Notes: You should have certain targets worked out (like computers, Radios, Ect.) Also <-* NEVER *-> Steal from your
own neighborhood. If you think they have an alarm...<-* FORGET IT! *->.
66. A Guide to Hypnotism by The Jolly Roger
What hypnotism is?
Hypnotism, contrary to common belief, is merely state when your mind and body are in a state of relaxation and your
mind is open to positive, or cleverly worded negative, influences. It is not a trance where you:
Are totally influenceable.
Cannot lie.
A sleep which you cannot wake up from without help.
This may bring down your hope somewhat, but, hypnotism is a powerful for self help, and/or mischief.
Your subconscious mind
Before going in further, I'd like to state that hypnotism not only is great in the way that it relaxes you and gets you (in
the long run) what you want, but also that it taps a force of incredible power, believe it or not, this power is your
subconscious mind. The subconscious mind always knows what is going on with every part of your body, every
moment of the day. It protects you from negative influences, and retains the power to slow your heartbeat down and
stuff like that. The subconscious mind holds just about all the info you would like to know
About yourself, or, in this case, the person you will be hypnotizing. There are many ways to talk to your subconscious
and have it talk back to you. One way is the ouja board, no its not a spirit, merely the minds of those who are using it.
Another, which I will discuss here, is the pendulum method. OK, here is how it goes. First, get a ring or a washer and
tie it to a thread a little longer than half of your forearm. Now, take a sheet of paper and draw a big circle in it. In the
big circle you must now draw a crosshair (a big +). Now, put the sheet of paper on a table. Next, hold the thread with
the ring or washer on it and place it (holding the thread so that the ring is 1 inch above the paper swinging) in the
middle of the crosshair. Now, swing the thread so the washer goes up and down, say to yourself the word "Yes" now,
do it side to side and say the word "no". Do it counter clockwise and say "I don't know". And lastly, do it clockwise and
say "I don't want to say." Now, with the thread back in the middle of the crosshair, ask yourself questions and wait for
the pendulum to swing in the direction for the answer. (yes, no, I don't know or I don't want to say...). Soon, to your
amazement, it will be answering questions like anything... Let the pendulum answer, don't try.. When you try you will
never get an answer. Let the answer come to you.
How to induce hypnotism
Now that you know how to talk to your subconscious mind, I will now tell you how to guide someone into hypnosis.
Note that I said guide, you can never, hypnotize someone, they must be willing. OK, the subject must be lying or
sitting in a comfortable position, relaxed, and at a time when things aren't going to be interrupted. Tell them the
following or something close to it, in a peaceful, monotonous tone (not a commanding tone of voice)
Note: Light a candle and place it somewhere where it can be easily seen.
"Take a deep breath through your nose and hold it in for a count of 8. Now, through your mouth, exhale completely
and slowly. Continued breathing long, deep, breaths through your nose and exhaling through your mouth. Tense up
all your muscles very tight, now, counting from ten to one, release them slowly, you will find them very relaxed. Now,
look at the candle, as you look at it, with every breath and passing moment, you are feeling increasingly more and
more peaceful and relaxed. The candles flame is peaceful and bright. As you look at it I will count from 100 down, as
a count, your eyes will become more and more relaxed, getting more and more tired with each passing moment."
Now, count down from 100, about every 10 numbers say "When I reach xx your eyes (or you will find your eyes) are
becoming more and more tired." Tell them they may close their eyes whenever they feel like it. If the persons eyes
are still open when you get to 50 then instead of saying "your eyes will.." Say "your eyes are...". When their eyes are
shut say the following. As you lie (or sit) here with your eyes comfortably close you find yourself relaxing more and
more with each moment and breath. The relaxation feels pleasant and blissful so, you happily give way to this
wonderful feeling. Imagine yourself on a cloud, resting peacefully, with a slight breeze caressing your body. A tingling
sensation begins to work its way, within and without your toes, it slowly moves up your feet, making them warm,
heavy and relaxed. The cloud is soft and supports your body with its soft texture, the scene is peaceful and
absorbing, the peacefulness absorbs you completely. The tingling gently and slowly moves up your legs, relaxing
them. Making them warm and heavy. The relaxation feels very good, it feels so good to relax and let go. As the
tingling continues its journey up into your solar plexus, you feel your inner stomach become very relaxed. Now, it
moves slowly into your chest, making your breathing relaxed as well. The feeling begins to move up your arms to
your shoulders, making your arms heavy and relaxed as well. You are aware of the total relaxation you are now
experiencing, and you give way to it. It is good and peaceful, the tingling now moves into your face and head,
relaxing your jaws, neck, and facial muscles, making your cares and worries float away. Away into the blue sky as
you rest blissfully on the cloud. If they are not responsive or you think they (he or she) is going to sleep, then add in a
"...always concentrating upon my voice, ignoring all other sounds. Even though other sounds exists, they aid you in
your relaxation..." They should soon let out a sigh as if they were letting go, and their face should have a "woodiness"
to it, becoming featureless... Now, say the following "... You now find yourself in a hallway, the hallway is peaceful
and nice. As I count from 10 to 1 you will imagine yourself walking further and further down the hall. When I reach
one you will find yourself where you want to be, in another, higher state of conscious and mind. (count from ten to
one)..." Do this about three or four times. Then, to test if the subject is under hypnosis or not, say "... You feel a
strange sensation in your (arm they write with) arm, the feeling begins at your fingers and slowly moves up your arm,
as it moves through your arm your arm becomes lighter and lighter, it will soon be so light it will ... becoming lighter
and lighter which each breath and moment..." Their fingers should begin to twitch and then move up, the arm
following, now my friend, you have him/her in hypnosis. The first time you do this, while he/she is under say good
things, like: "Your going to feel great tomorrow" or "Every day in every way you will find yourself becoming better and
better".. Or some crap like that... The more they go under, the deeper in hypnosis they will get each time you do it.
What to do when hypnotized
When you have them under you must word things very carefully to get your way. You cannot simply say... Take off
your clothes and fuck the pillow. No, that would not really do the trick. You must say something like.... "you find your
self at home, in your room and you have to take a shower (vividly describe their room and what's happening), you
begin to take off your clothes..." Now, it can't be that simple, you must know the persons house, room, and shower
room. Then describe things vividly and tell them to act it out (they have to be deeply under to do this). I would just
suggest that you experiment a while, and get to know how to do things.
Waking up
Waking up is very easy, just say "...as I count from 1 to 5 you will find yourself becoming more and more awake,
more and more lively. When you wake up you will find yourself completely alive, awake, and refreshed. Mentally and
physically, remembering the pleasant sensation that hypnosis brings... Waking up feeling like a new born baby,
reborn with life and vigor, feeling excellent. Remembering that next time you enter hypnosis it will become an ever
increasing deeper and deeper state than before.
1.You feel energy course throughout your limbs.
2.You begin to breathe deeply, stirring.
3.Beginning to move more and more your eyes open, bringing you up to full conscious.
4.You are up, up, up and awakening more and more.
5.You are awake and feeling great.
And that's it! You now know how to hypnotize yourself and someone else.
You will learn more and more as you experiment.
67. The Remote Informer Issue #1 by Tracker and Noman Bates
Introduction
Welcome to the first issue of 'The Remote Informer'! This newsletter is reader supported. If the readers of this
newsletter do not help support it, then it will end. We are putting this out to help out the ones that would like to read
it. If you are one of those who thinks they know everything, then don't bother reading it. This newsletter is not
anything like the future issues. The future issues will contain several sections, as long as reader input is obtained.
Below is an outline overview of the sections in the future issues.
I/O Board (Input/Output Board)
The I/O Board is for questions you have, that we might be able to answer or at least refer you to someone or
something. We will be honest if we cannot help you. We will not make up something, or to the effect, just to make it
look like we answered you. There will be a section in the I/O Board for questions we cannot answer, and then the
readers will have the opportunity to answer it. We will print anything that is reasonable in the newsletter, even
complaints if you feel like you are better than everyone.
NewsCenter
This section will be for news around the underworld. It will talk of busts of people in the underworld and anything else
that would be considered news. If you find articles in the paper, or something happens in your local area, type it up,
and upload it to one of the boards listed at the end of the newsletter. Your handle will be placed in the article. If you
do enter a news article, please state the date and from where you got it.
Feature Section
The Feature Section will be the largest of the sections as it will be on the topic that is featured in that issue. This will
be largely reader input which will be sent in between issues. At the end of the issue at hand, it will tell the topic of
the next issue, therefore, if you have something to contribute, then you will have ample time to prepare your article.
Hardware/Software Review
In this section, we will review the good and bad points of hardware and software related to the underworld. It will be
an extensive review, rather than just a small paragraph.
The Tops
This section will be the area where the top underworld BBS's, hacking programs, modem scanners, etc. will be
shown. This will be reader selected and will not be altered in anyway. The topics are listed below.
Underworld BBS's (Hack, Phreak, Card, Anarchy, etc.)
Hacking programs for Hayes compatables
Hacking programs for 1030/Xm301 modems
Modem scanners for Hayes compatables
Modem scanners for 1030/Xm301 modems
Other type illegal programs
You may add topics to the list if enough will support it.
Tid Bits
This will contain tips and helpful information sent in by the users. If you have any information you wish to contribute,
then put it in a text file and upload it to one of the BBS's listed at the end of the newsletter. Please, no long distance
codes, mainframe passwords, etc. We may add other sections as time goes by. This newsletter will not be put out on
a regular basis. It will be put out when we have enough articles and information to put in it. There may be up to 5 a
month, but there will always be at least one a month. We would like you, the readers, to send us anything you feel
would be of interest to others, like hacking hints, methods of hacking long distance companies, companies to card
from, etc. We will maintain the newsletter as long as the readers support it. That is the end of the introduction, but
take a look at this newsletter, as it does contain information that may be of value to you.
Hacking Sprint: The Easy Way
If you hack US Sprint, 950-0777 (by the way it is no longer GTE Sprint), and you are frustrated at hacking several
hours only to find one or two codes, then follow these tips, and it will increase your results tremendously. First, one
thing that Mr. Mojo proved is that Sprint will not store more than one code in every hundred numbers. (ex: 98765400
to 98765499 may contain only one code). There may NOT be a code in that hundred, but there will never be more
than one. Sprint's 9 digit codes are stored from 500000000 through 999999999. In the beginning of Sprint's 950 port,
they only had 8 digit codes. Then they started converting to 9 digit codes, storing all 8 digit codes between 10000000
and 49999999 and all 9 digit codes between 500000000 and 999999999. Sprint has since canceled most 8 digit
codes, although there are a few left that have been denoted as test codes. Occasionally, I hear of phreaks saying
they have 8 digit codes, but when verifying them, the codes were invalid. Now, where do you start? You have already
narrowed the low and high numbers in half, therefore already increasing your chances of good results by 50 percent.
The next step is to find a good prefix to hack. By the way, a prefix, in hacking terms, is the first digits in a code that
can be any length except the same number of digits the code is. (ex: 123456789 is a code. That means 1, 12, 123,
1234, 12345, 123456, 1234567, and 12345678 are prefixes) The way you find a good prefix to hack is to manually
enter a code prefix. If when you enter the code prefix and a valid destination number and you do not hear the ringing
of the recording telling you that the code is invalid until near the end of the number, then you know the prefix is valid.
Here is a chart to follow when doing this:
Code - Destination Range good codes exist
-------------------------------------------------
123456789 - 6192R 123400000 - 123499999
123456789 - 619267R 123450000 - 123459999
123456789 - 61926702R 123456000 - 123456999
123456789 - 6192670293R 123456700 - 123456799
-------------------------------------------------
( R - Denotes when ring for recording starts)
To prove this true, I ran a test using OmniHack 1.3p, written by Jolly Joe. In this test I found a prefix where the last 3
digits were all I had to hack. I tested each hundred of the 6 digit prefix finding that all but 4 had the ring start after the
fourth digit was dialed in the destination number. The other four did not ring until I had finished the entire code. I set
OmniHack to hack the prefix + 00 until prefix + 99. (ex: xxxxxxy00 to xxxxxxy99: where y is one of the four numbers
that the ring did not start until the dialing was completed.) Using this method, I found four codes in a total of 241
attempts using ascending hacking (AKA: Sequential). Below you will see a record of my hack:
Range of hack Codes found Tries
xxxxxx300 - xxxxxx399 xxxxxx350 50
xxxxxx500 - xxxxxx599 xxxxxx568 68
xxxxxx600 - xxxxxx699 xxxxxx646 46
xxxxxx800 - xxxxxx899 xxxxxx877 77
Totals 4 codes 241
As you see, these methods work. Follow these guidelines and tips and you should have an increase in production of
codes in the future hacking Sprint. Also, if you have any hints/tips you think others could benefit from, then type them
up and upload them to one of the boards at the end of the newsletter.
Rumors: Why Spread Them?
Do you ever get tired of hearing rumors? You know, someone gets an urge to impress others, so they create a rumor
that some long distance company is now using tracing equipment. Why start rumors? It only scares others out of
phreaking, and then makes you, the person who started the rumor, look like Mr. Big. This article is short, but it
should make you aware of the rumors that people spread for personal gain. The best thing to do is to denote them
as a rumor starter and then leave it at that. You should not rag on them constantly, since if the other users cannot
determine if it is fact or rumor, then they should suffer the consequences.
The New Sprint FON Calling Cards
US Sprint has opened up a new long distance network called the Fiber Optic Network (FON), in which subscribers
are given calling cards. These calling cards are 14 digits, and though, seem randomly generated, they are actually
encrypted. The rumors floating around about people getting caught using the Sprint FON calling cards are fact, not
rumors. The reason people are getting caught is that they confuse the FON calling cards with the local 950 port
authorization codes. If you will remember, you never use AT&T calling cards from you home phone. It has ANI
capability, which is not tracing, but rather the originating phone number is placed on the bill as soon as the call is
completed. They know your phone number when you call the 800 access port, but they do not record it until your call
is completed. Also, through several of my hacks, I came up with some interesting information surrounding the new
Sprint network. They are listed below.
800-877-0000 - This number is for information on US Sprint's 800 calling card service. I have not played around with
it, but I believe it is for trouble or help with the FON calling cards. I am not sure if it is for subscribing to the FON
network.
800-877-0002 - You hear a short tone, then nothing.
800-877-0003 - US Sprint Alpha Test Channel #1
800-877-(0004-0999) - When you call these numbers, you get a recording saying: "Welcome to US Sprint's 1 plus
service." When the recording stops, if you hit the pound key (#) you will get the calling card dial tone.
Other related Sprint numbers
800-521-4949 - This is the number that you subscribe to US Sprint with. You may also subscribe to the FON network
on this number. It will take 4 to 5 weeks for your calling card to arrive.
10777 - This is US Sprint's equal access number. When you dial this number, you then dial the number you are
calling, and it will be billed through US Sprint, and you will receive their long distance line for that call. Note that you
will be billed for calls made through equal access. Do not mistake it to be a method of phreaking, unless used from a
remote location. If you are in US Sprint's 1+ service then call 1+700-555-1414, which will tell you which long distance
company you are using. When you hear: "Thank you for choosing US Sprint's 1 plus service," hit the pound key (#),
and then you will get the US Sprint dial tone. This however is just the same as if you are calling from your home
phone if you dial direct, so you would be billed for calls made through that, but there are ways to use this to your
advantage as in using equal access through a PBX.
Automatic Number Identification (ANI)
The true definition for Automatic Number Identification has not been widely known to many. Automatic Number
Identification, (AKA: ANI), is the process of the destination number knowing the originating number, which is where
you are calling from. The method of achieving this is to send the phone number that you are calling from in coded
form ahead of the destination number. Below is an example of this.
ANI Method
Dial: 267-0293
Sent: ********2670293
* - Denotes the originating number which is coded and sent before the
number
As you noticed there are 8 digits in the coded number. This is because, at least I believe, it is stored in a binary-like
form. Automatic Number Identification means a limited future in phreaking. ANI does not threaten phreaking very
much yet, but it will in the near future. A new switching system will soon be installed in most cities that are covered by
ESS, Electronic Switching System, now. The system will have ANI capabilities which will be supplied to the owners of
phone lines as an added extra. The owner's phone will have an LED read-out that will show the phone number of the
people that call you. You will be able to block some numbers, so that people cannot call you. This system is in the
testing stages currently, but will soon be installed across most of the country. As you see, this will end a large part of
phreaking, until we, the phreakers, can come up with an alternative. As I have been told by several, usually reliable,
people, this system is called ISS, which I am not sure of the meaning of this, and is being tested currently in Rhode
Island. 800 in-watts lines set up by AT&T support ANI. The equipment to decode an ANI coded origination number
does not costs as much as you would expect. 950 ports do not offer ANI capability, no matter what you have been
told. The 950 ports will only give the city in which they are based, this usually being the largest in the state,
sometimes the capitol. One last thing that I should tell you is that ANI is not related to tracing. Tracing can be done
on any number whether local, 950, etc. One way around this, especially when dialing Alliance TeleConferencing, is
to dial through several extenders or ports. ANI will only cover the number that is calling it, and if you call through a
number that does not support ANI, then your number will never be known.
68. Jackpotting ATM Machines by The Jolly Roger
JACKPOTTING was done rather successfully a while back in (you guessed it) New York. What the culprits did was
sever (actually cross over) the line between the ATM and the host. Insert a microcomputer between the ATM and the
host. Insert a fraudulent card into the ATM. (By card I mean cash card, not hardware.) What the ATM did was: send a
signal to the host, saying "Hey! Can I give this guy money, or is he broke, or is his card invalid?" What the
microcomputer did was: intercept the signal from the host, discard it, send "there's no one using the ATM" signal.
What the host did was: get the "no one using" signal, send back "okay, then for God's sake don't spit out any
money!" signal to ATM. What the microcomputer did was intercept the signal (again), throw it away (again), send
"Wow! That guy is like TOO rich! Give him as much money as he wants. In fact, he's so loaded, give him ALL the
cash we have! He is really a valued customer." signal. What the ATM did: what else? Obediently dispense cash till
the cows came home (or very nearly so). What the crooks got was well in excess of $120,000 (for one weekend's
work), and several years when they were caught. This story was used at a CRYPTOGRAPHY conference I attended
a while ago to demonstrate the need for better information security. The lines between ATM's & their hosts are
usually 'weak' in the sense that the information transmitted on them is generally not encrypted in any way. One of the
ways that JACKPOTTING can be defeated is to encrypt the information passing between the ATM and the host. As
long as the key cannot be determined from the ciphertext, the transmission (and hence the transaction) is secure. A more believable, technically accurate story might concern a person who uses a computer between the ATM and the
host to determine the key before actually fooling the host. As everyone knows, people find cryptanalysis a very
exciting and engrossing subject..don't they? (Hee-Hee)
_____ ______
| |-<<-| |-<<-| |
|ATM| micro |Host|
|___|->>-| |->>-|____|
The B of A ATM's are connected through dedicated lines to a host computer as the Bishop said. However, for
maintenance purposes, there is at least one separate dial-up line also going to that same host computer. This guy
basically BS'ed his way over the phone till he found someone stupid enough to give him the number. After finding
that, he had has Apple hack at the code. Simple.
Next, he had a friend go to an ATM with any B of A ATM card. He stayed at home with the Apple connected to the
host. When his friend inserted the card, the host displayed it. The guy with the Apple modified the status & number of
the card directly in the host's memory. He turned the card into a security card, used for testing purposes. At that
point, the ATM did whatever it's operator told it to do.
The next day, he went into the bank with the $2000 he received, talked to the manager and told him every detail of
what he'd done. The manager gave him his business card and told him that he had a job waiting for him when he got
out of school.
Now, B of A has been warned, they might have changed the system. On the other hand, it'd be awful expensive to do
that over the whole country when only a handful of people have the resources and even less have the intelligence to
duplicate the feat. Who knows?
69. Jug Bomb by The Jolly Roger
Take a glass jug, and put 3 to 4 drops of gasoline into it. Then put the cap on, and swish the gas around so the inner
surface of the jug is coated. Then add a few drops of potassium permanganate solution into it and cap it. To blow it
up, either throw it at something, or roll it at something.
70. Fun at K-Mart by The Jolly Roger
Well, first off, one must realize the importance of K-Marts in society today. First off, K-Marts provide things cheaper to
those who can't afford to shop at higher quality stores. Although, all I ever see in there is minorities and Senior
Citizens, and the poor people in our city. Personally, I wouldn't be caught dead in there. But, once, I did. You see,
once, after The Moon Roach and Havoc Chaos (Dear friends of mine) and I were exploring such fun things as
rooftops, we came along a K-Mart. Amused, and cold for that matter, we wandered in. The Tension mounts. As we
walked up to the entrance, we were nearly attacked by Youth Groups selling cheap cookies, and wheelchair sticken
people selling American Flags. After laughing at these people, we entered. This is where the real fun begins... First,
we wandered around the store, and turned on all the blue lights we could find. That really distracts and confuses the
attendents...Fun to do... The first neat thing, is to go to the section of the store where they sell computers. Darkness
engulfs the earth the day they find Apple Computers being sold there. Instead, lesser computers like the laughable
C-64 can be found there...Turn it on, and make sure nobody's looking...Then, once in Basic, type...
]10 PRINT "Fuck the world! Anarchy Rules!" (or something to that effect.)
]20 GOTO 10 and walk away.
Also, set the sample radios in the store to a satanic rock station, and turn the radio off. Then, set the alarm for two
minutes ahead of the time displayed there. Turn the volume up all the way, and walk away. After about two minutes,
you will see the clerk feebly attempt to turn the radio down or off. It's really neat to set ten or more radios to different
stations, and walk away. One of my favorite things to do, is to get onto the intercom system of the store. Easier typed
then done. First, check out the garden department. You say there's no attendent there? Good. Sneak carefully over
to the phone behind the cheap counter there, and pick it up. Dial the number corresponding to the item that says
'PAGE'... And talk. You will note that your voice will echo all over the bowels of K-Mart. I would suggest announcing
something on the lines of: "Anarchy rules!!"
71. Mace Substitute by The Jolly Roger
3 parts Alcohol
« part Iodine
« part Salt
-or-
3 parts Alcohol
1 part Iodized Salt (Mortons)
It's not actual mace, but it does a damn good job on the eyes...
72. How to grow Marijuana by The Jolly Roger
MARIJUANA
Marijuana is a deciduous plant which grows from seeds. The fibrous section of the plant was (has been replaced by
synthetics) used to make rope. The flowering tops, leaves, seeds, and resin of the plant is used by just about
everyone to get HIGH. Normally, the vegetable parts of the plant are smoked to produce this "high," but they can also
be eaten. The active ingredient in marijuana resin is THC (Tetahydrocannabinol). Marijuana contains from 1%-4%
THC (4% must be considered GOOD dope). Marijuana grows wild in many parts of the world, and is cultivated in
Mexico, Vietnam, Africa, Nepal, India, South America, etc. The marijuana sold in the United States comes primarily
from, yes, the United States. It is estimated that at least 50% of the grass on the streets in America is homegrown.
The next largest bunch comes across the borders from Mexico, with smaller amounts filtering in from Panama,
occasionally South America, and occasionally, Africa. Hashish is the pure resin of the marijuana plant, which is
scraped from the flowering tops of the plant and lumped together. Ganja is the ground-up tops of the finest plants. (It
is also the name given to any sort of marijuana in Jamaica.) Marijuana will deteriorate in about two years if exposed
to light, air or heat. It should always be stored in cool places. Grass prices in the United States are a direct reflection
of the laws of supply and demand (and you thought that high school economics would never be useful). A series of
large border busts, a short growing season, a bad crop, any number of things can drive the price of marijuana up.
Demand still seems to be on the increase in the US, so prices seldom fall below last year's level. Each year a small
seasonal drought occurs, as last year's supply runs low, and next year's crop is not up yet. Prices usually rise about
20%-75% during this time and then fall back to "normal." Unquestionably, a large shortage of grass causes a
percentage of smokers to turn to harder drugs instead. For this reason, no grass control program can ever be
beneficial or "successful."
GROW IT!
There is one surefire way of avoiding high prices and the grass DT's: Grow your own. This is not as difficult as some
"authorities" on the subject would make you believe. Marijuana is a weed, and a fairly vivacious one at that, and it will
grow almost in spite of you.
OUTDOORS
Contrary to popular belief, grass grows well in many place on the North American continent. It will flourish even if the
temperature does not raise above 75ø. The plants do need a minimum of eight hours of sunlight per day and should
be planted in late April/early May, BUT DEFINITELY, after the last frost of the year. Growing an outdoor, or "au
naturel", crop has been the favored method over the years, because grass seems to grow better without as much
attention when in its natural habitat. Of course, an outdoors setting requires special precautions not encountered with
an indoors crop; you must be able to avoid detection, both from law enforcement freaks and common freaks, both of
whom will take your weed and probably use it. Of course, one will also arrest you. You must also have access to the
area to prepare the soil and harvest the crop. There are two schools of thought about starting the seeds. One says
you should start the seedlings for about ten days in an indoor starter box (see the indoor section) and then transplant.
The other theory is that you should just start them in the correct location. Fewer plants will come up with this method,
but there is no shock of transplant to kill some of the seedlings halfway through. The soil should be prepared for the
little devils by turning it over a couple of times and adding about one cup of hydrated lime per square yard of soil and
a little bit (not too much, now) of good water soluble nitrogen fertilizer. The soil should now be watered several times
and left to sit about one week. The plants should be planted at least three feet apart, getting too greedy and stacking
them too close will result in stunted plants. The plants like some water during their growing season, BUT not too
much. This is especially true around the roots, as too much water will rot the root system. Grass grows well in corn or
hops, and these plants will help provide some camouflage. It does not grow well with rye, spinach, or pepperweed. It
is probably a good idea to plant in many small, broken patches, as people tend to notice patterns.
GENERAL GROWING INFO
Both the male and he female plant produce THC resin, although the male is not as strong as the female. In a good
crop, the male will still be plenty smokable and should not be thrown away under any circumstances. Marijuana can
reach a height of twenty feet (or would you rather wish on a star) and obtain a diameter of 4« inches. If normal, it has
a sex ratio of about 1:1, but this can be altered in several ways. The male plant dies in the 12th week of growing, the
female will live another 3-5 weeks to produce her younguns. Females can weigh twice as much as males when they
are mature. Marijuana soil should compact when you squeeze it, but should also break apart with a small pressure
and absorb water well. A nice test for either indoor or outdoor growing is to add a bunch of worms to the soil, if they
live and hang around, it is good soil, but if they don't, well, change it. Worms also help keep the soil loose enough for
the plants to grow well.
SEEDS
To get good grass, you should start with the right seeds. A nice starting point is to save the seeds form the best batch
you have consumed. The seeds should be virile, that is, they should not be gray and shriveled up, but green, meaty,
and healthy appearing. A nice test is to drop the seeds on a hot frying pan. If they "CRACK," they are probably good
for planting purposes. The seeds should be soaked in distilled water overnight before planting. BE SURE to plant in
the ground with the pointy end UP. Plant about «" deep. Healthy seeds will sprout in about five days.
SPROUTING
The best all around sprouting method is probably to make a sprouting box (as sold in nurseries) with a slated bottom
or use paper cups with holes punched in the bottoms. The sprouting soil should be a mixture of humus, soil, and five
sand with a bit of organic fertilizer and water mixed in about one week before planting. When ready to transplant, you
must be sure and leave a ball of soil around the roots of each plant. This whole ball is dropped into a baseball-sized
hold in the permanent soil. If you are growing/transplanting indoors, you should use a green safe light (purchased at
nurseries) during the transplanting operation. If you are transplanting outdoors, you should time it about two hours
before sunset to avoid damage to the plant. Always wear cotton gloves when handling the young plants. After the
plants are set in the hole, you should water them. It is also a good idea to use a commercial transplant chemical (also
purchased at nurseries) to help then overcome the shock.
INDOOR GROWING
Indoor growing has many advantages, besides the apparent fact that it is much harder to have your crop "found," you
can control the ambient conditions just exactly as you want them and get a guaranteed "good" plant. Plants grown
indoors will not appear the same as their outdoor cousins. They will be scrawnier appearing with a weak stems and
may even require you to tie them to a growing post to remain upright, BUT THEY WILL HAVE AS MUCH OR MORE
RESIN! If growing in a room, you should put tar paper on the floors and then buy sterilized bags of soil form a
nursery. You will need about one cubic foot of soil for each plant. The plants will need about 150 mL. of water per
plant/per week. They will also need fresh air, so the room must be ventilated. (However, the fresh air should contain
NO TOBACCO smoke.) At least eight hours of light a day must be provided. As you increase the light, the plants
grow faster and show more females/less males. Sixteen hours of light per day seems to be the best combination,
beyond this makes little or no appreciable difference in the plant quality. Another idea is to interrupt the night cycle
with about one hour of light. This gives you more females. The walls of your growing room should be painted white or
covered with aluminum foil to reflect the light. The lights themselves can be either bulbs of fluorescent. Figure about
75 watts per plant or one plant per two feet of fluorescent tube. The fluorescents are the best, but do not use "cool
white" types. The light sources should be an average of twenty inches from the plant and NEVER closer than 14
inches. They may be mounted on a rack and moved every few days as the plants grow. The very best light sources
are those made by Sylvania and others especially for growing plants (such as the "gro lux" types).
HARVESTING AND DRYING
The male plants will be taller and have about five green or yellow sepals, which will split open to fertilize the female
plant with pollen. The female plant is shorter and has a small pistillate flower, which really doesn't look like a flower at
all but rather a small bunch of leaves in a cluster. If you don't want any seeds, just good dope, you should pick the
males before they shed their pollen as the female will use some of her resin to make the seeds. After another three to
five weeks, after the males are gone, the females will begin to wither and die (from loneliness?), this is the time to
pick. In some nefarious Middle Eastern countries, farmers reportedly put their beehives next to fields of marijuana.
The little devils collect the grass pollen for their honey, which is supposed to contain a fair dosage of THC. The honey
is then enjoyed by conventional methods or made into ambrosia. If you want seeds - let the males shed his pollen
then pick him. Let the female go another month and pick her. To cure the plants, they must be dried. On large crops,
this is accomplished by constructing a drying box or drying room. You must have a heat source (such as an electric
heater) which will make the box/room each 130ø. The box/room must be ventilated to carry off the water-vapor-laden
air and replace it with fresh. A good box can be constructed from an orange crate with fiberglass insulated walls,
vents in the tops, and screen shelves to hold the leaves. There must be a baffle between the leaves and the heat
source. A quick cure for smaller amounts is to: cut the plant at the soil level and wrap it in a cloth so as not to loose
any leaves. Take out any seeds by hand and store. Place all the leaves on a cookie sheet or aluminum foil and put
them in the middle shelf of the oven, which is set on "broil." In a few seconds, the leaves will smoke and curl up, stir
them around and give another ten seconds before you take them out.
TO INCREASE THE GOOD STUFF
There are several tricks to increase the number of females, or the THC content of plants: You can make the plants
mature in 36 days if you are in a hurry, by cutting back on the light to about 14 hours, but the plants will not be as big.
You should gradually shorten the light cycle until you reach fourteen hours. You can stop any watering as the plants
begin to bake the resin rise to the flowers. This will increase the resin a bit. You can use a sunlamp on the plants as
they begin to develop flower stalks. You can snip off the flower, right at the spot where it joins the plant, and a new
flower will form in a couple of weeks. This can be repeated two or three times to get several times more flowers than
usual.
If the plants are sprayed with Ethrel early in their growing stage, they will produce almost all female plants. This
usually speeds up the flowering also, it may happen in as little as two weeks. You can employ a growth changer
called colchicine. This is a bit hard to get and expensive. (Should be ordered through a lab of some sort and costs
about $35 a gram.) To use the colchicine, you should prepare your presoaking solution of distilled water with about
0.10 per cent colchicine. This will cause many of the seeds to die and not germinate, but the ones that do come up
will be polyploid plants. This is the accepted difference between such strains as "gold" and normal grass, and yours
will DEFINITELY be superweed. The problem here is that colchicine is a poison in larger quantities and may be
poisonous in the first generation of plants. Bill Frake, author of CONNOISSEUR'S HANDBOOK OF MARIJUANA runs
a very complete colchicine treatment down and warns against smoking the first generation plants (all succeeding
generations will also be polyploid) because of this poisonous quality. However, the Medical Index shows colchicine
being given in very small quantities to people for treatment if various ailments. Although these quantities are small,
they would appear to be larger than any you could receive form smoking a seed-treated plant. It would be a good
idea to buy a copy of CONNOISSEUR'S, if you are planning to attempt this, and read Mr. Drake's complete
instructions. Another still-experimental process to increase the resin it to pinch off the leaf tips as soon as they
appear from the time the plant is in the seedling stage on through its entire life-span. This produces a distorted,
wrecked-looking plant which would be very difficult to recognize as marijuana. Of course, there is less substance to
this plant, but such wrecked creatures have been known to produce so much resin that it crystallizes a strong hash
all over the surface of the plant - might be wise to try it on a plant or two and see what happens.
PLANT PROBLEM CHART
Always check the overall environmental conditions prior to passing judgment - soil around 7 pH or slightly less -
plenty of water, light, fresh air, loose soil, no water standing in pools.
SYMPTOM PROBABLY PROBLEM/CURE
Larger leaves turning yellow - smaller leaves still green. Nitrogen deficiency - add nitrate of soda or organic fertilizer.
Older leaves will curl at edges, turn dark, possibly with a purple cast.
Phosphorous deficiency - add commercial phosphate.
Mature leaves develop a yellowish cast to least venial areas.
Magnesium deficiency - add commercial fertilizer with a magnesium content.
Mature leaves turn yellow and then become spotted with edge areas turning dark gray.
Potassium deficiency - add muriate of potash.
Cracked stems, no healthy support tissue. Boron deficiency - add any plant food containing boron.
Small wrinkled leaves with yellowish vein systems. Zinc deficiency - add commercial plant food containing zinc.
Young leaves become deformed, possibly yellowing. Molybdenum deficiency - use any plant food with a bit of
molybdenum in it.
EXTRA SECTION: BAD WEED/GOOD WEED
Can you turn bad weed into good weed? Surprisingly enough, the answer to this often-asked inquiry is, yes! Like
most other things in life, the amount of good you are going to do relates directly to how much effort you are going to
put into it. There are no instant, supermarket products which you can spray on Kansas catnip and have wonderweed,
but there are a number of simplified, inexpensive processes (Gee, Mr. Wizard!) which will enhance mediocre grass
somewhat, and there are a couple of fairly involved processes which will do up even almost-parsley weed into
something worth writing home about.
EASES
1.Place the dope in a container which allows air to enter in a restricted fashion (such as a can with nail holes
punched in its lid) and add a bunch of dry ice, and the place the whole shebang in the freezer for a few days.
This process will add a certain amount of potency to the product, however, this only works with dry ice, if you use
normal, everyday freezer ice, you will end up with a soggy mess...
2.Take a quantity of grass and dampen it, place in a baggy or another socially acceptable container, and store it in a
dark, dampish place for a couple of weeks (burying it also seems to work). The grass will develop a mold which
tastes a bit harsh, a and burns a tiny bit funny, but does increase the potency.
3.Expose the grass to the high intensity light of a sunlamp for a full day or so. Personally, I don't feel that this is worth
the effort, but if you just spent $400 of your friend's money for this brick of super-Colombian, right-from-the-
President's-personal-stash, and it turns out to be Missouri weed, and you're packing your bags to leave town
before the people arrive for their shares, well, you might at least try it. Can't hurt.
4.Take the undesirable portions of our stash (stems, seeds, weak weed, worms, etc.) and place them in a covered
pot, with enough rubbing alcohol to cover everything. Now CAREFULLY boil the mixture on an ELECTRIC stove
or lab burner. DO NOT USE GAS - the alcohol is too flammable. After 45 minutes of heat, remove the pot and
strain the solids out, SAVING THE ALCOHOL. Now, repeat the process with the same residuals, but fresh
alcohol. When the second boil is over, remove the solids again, combine the two quantities of alcohol and reboil
until you have a syrupy mixture. Now, this syrupy mixture will contain much of the THC formerly hidden in the
stems and such. One simply takes this syrup the thoroughly combines it with the grass that one wishes to
improve upon.
SPECIAL SECTION ON RELATED SUBJECT MARYGIN
Marygin is an anagram of the words marijuana and gin, as in Eli Whitney. It is a plastic tumbler which acts much like
a commercial cotton gin. One takes about one ounce of an herb and breaks it up. This is then placed in the Marygin
and the protruding knob is rotated. This action turns the internal wheel, which separates the grass from the debris
(seeds, stems). It does not pulverize the grass as screens have a habit of doing and is easily washable.
Marygin is available from:
P.O. Box 5827
Tuscon, Arizona 85703
$5.00
GRASS
Edmund Scientific Company
555 Edscorp Building
Barrington, New Jersy 08007
Free Catalog is a wonder of good things for the potential grass grower. They have an electric thermostat greenhouse
for starting plants. Lights which approximate the true color balance of the sun and are probably the most beneficial
types available: 40 watt, 48 inch Indoor sun bulb, 75 or 150 watt And, they have a natural growth regulator for plants
(Gibberellin) which can change height, speed growth, and maturity, promote blossoming, etc. Each plant reacts
differently to treatment with Gibberellin...there's no fun like experimenting.
SUGGESTED READING
THE CONNOISSEUR'S HANDBOOK OF MARIJUANA, Bill Drake
Straight Arrow Publishing - $3«0
625 Third Street
San Francisco, California
FLASH
P.O.Box 16098
San Fransicso, California 94116
Stocks a series of pamphlets on grass, dope manufacture, cooking. Includes the Mary Jane Superweed series.
73. Match Head Bomb by The Jolly Roger
Simple safety match heads in a pipe, capped at both ends, make a devastating bomb. It is set off with a regular fuse.
A plastic baggy is put into the pipe before the heads go in to prevent detonation by contact with the metal. Cutting
enough match heads to fill the pipe can be tedious work for one but an evening's fun for the family if you can drag
them away from the TV.
74. How To Terrorize McDonalds by The Jolly Roger
Now, although McDonalds is famous for it's advertising and making the whole world think that the BigMac is the best
thing to come along since sliced bread (buns?), each little restaurant is as amateur and simple as a new-found
business. Not only are all the employees rather inexperienced at what they're supposed to do, but they will just loose
all control when an emergency occurs....here we go!!! First, get a few friends (4 is good...I'll get to this later) and
enter the McDonalds restaurant, talking loudly and reeking of some strange smell that automatically makes the old
couple sitting by the door leave. If one of those pimply-faced goons is wiping the floor, then track some crap all over it
(you could pretend to slip and break your head, but you might actually do so). Next, before you get the food, find a
table. Start yelling and releasing some strange body odor so anybody would leave their table and walk out the door.
Sit two friends there, and go up to the counter with another. Find a place where the line is short, or if the line is long
say "I only wanna buy a coke." and you get moved up. Now, you get to do the ordering ...heh heh heh. Somebody
always must want a plain hamburger with absolutely nothing on it (this takes extra time to make, and drives the little
hamburger-makers insane)..order a 9-pack of chicken McNuggets...no, a 20 pack...no, three 6 packs...wait...go back
to the table and ask who wants what. Your other friend waits by the counter and makes a pass at the female clerk.
Get back to the thing and order three 6-packs of chicken etc....now she says "What kind of sauce would you like?".
Of course, say that you all want barbecue sauce one of your friends wants 2 (only if there are only 2 containers of
barbecue sauce left). Then they hafta go into the storeroom and open up another box. Finally, the drinks...somebody
wants coke, somebody root beer, and somebody diet coke. After these are delivered, bring them back and say "I
didn't order a diet coke! I ordered a sprite!" This gets them mad; better yet, turn down something terrible that nobody
wants to drink, so they hafta throw the drink away; they can't sell it. After all the food(?) is handed to you, you must
never have enough money to pay. The clerk will be so angry and confused that she'll let you get away with it (another
influence on her is your friend asking her "If you let us go, I'll go out with you." and giving her a fake fone number).
Now, back to your table. But first, somebody likes ketchup and mustard. And plenty (too much) of napkins. Oh, and
somebody likes forks and knives, so always end up breaking the ones you pick outta the box. Have your friends yell
out, “Yay!!!!! We have munchies!!" As loud as they can. That'll worry the entire restaurant. Proceed to sit down. So,
you are sitting in the smoking section (by accident) eh? Well, while one of the tobacco-breathers isn't looking, put a
sign from the other side of the room saying "Do not smoke here" and he'll hafta move...then he goes into the real
non-smoking section, and gets yelled at. He then thinks that no smoking is allowed in the restaurant, so he eats
outside (in the pouring rain) after your meal is finished (and quite a few splattered-opened ketchup packets are all
over your table), try to leave. But oops! Somebody has to do his duty in the men's room. As he goes there, he sticks
an uneaten hamburger (would you dare to eat one of their hamburgers?) Inside the toilet, flushes it a while, until it
runs all over the bathroom. Oops! Send a pimply-faced teenager to clean it up. (He won't know that brown thing is a
hamburger, and he'll get sick. Wheee!) As you leave the restaurant, looking back at your uncleaned table, somebody
must remember that they left their chocolate shake there! The one that's almost full!!!! He takes it then says "This
tastes like crap!", Then he takes off the lid and throws it into the garbage can...oops! He missed, and now the same
poor soul who's cleaning up the bathroom now hasta clean up chocolate shake. Then leave the joint, reversing the
"Yes, we're open" sign (as a reminder of your visit) There you have it! You have just put all of McDonalds into
complete mayhem. And since there is no penalty for littering in a restaurant, bugging people in a public eatery (or
throw-upery, in this case) you get off scot-free. Wasn't that fun?
75. "Mentor's Last Words" by +++The Mentor+++
The following file is being reprinted in honor and sympathy for the many phreaks and hackers that have been busted
recently by the Secret Service.
The Conscience of a Hacker
Another one got caught today, it's all over the papers. "Teenager Arrested in Computer Crime Scandal", "Hacker
Arrested after Bank Tampering"... Damn kids. They're all alike. But did you, in your three-piece psychology and
1950's technobrain, ever take a look behind the eyes of the hacker? Did you ever wonder what made him tick, what
forces shaped him, what may have molded him? I am a hacker, enter my world... Mine is a world that begins with
school... I'm smarter than most of the other kids, this crap they teach us bores me... Damn underachiever. They're all
alike. I'm in junior high or high school. I've listened to teachers explain for the fifteenth time how to reduce a fraction. I
understand it. "No, Ms. Smith, I didn't show my work. I did it in my head..." Damn kid. Probably copied it. They're all
alike. I made a discovery today. I found a computer. Wait a second, this is cool. It does what I want it to. If it makes
a mistake, it's because I screwed it up. Not because it doesn't like me or feels threatened by me or thinks I'm a smart
ass or doesn't like teaching and shouldn't be here...damn kid. All he does is play games. They're all alike. And then it
happened. A door opened to a world. Rushing through the phone line like heroin through an addict's veins, an
electronic pulse is sent out, a refuge from the day-to-day incompetencies is sought... a board is found. "This is it...
this is where I belong..." I know everyone here... even if I've never met them, never talked to them, may never hear
from them again... I know you all... Damn kid. Tying up the phone line again. They're all alike... You bet your ass
we're all alike... we've been spoon-fed baby food at school when we hungered for steak... the bits of meat that you
did let slip through were pre-chewed and tasteless. We've been dominated by sadists, or ignored by the apathetic.
The few that had something to teach found us willing pupils, but those few are like drops of water in the desert.
This is our world now... the world of the electron and the switch, the beauty of the baud. We make use of a
service already existing without paying for what could be dirt-cheap if it wasn't run by profiteering gluttons, and you
call us criminals. We explore... and you call us criminals. We seek after knowledge... and you call us criminals. We
exist without skin color, without nationality, without religious bias... and you call us criminals. You build atomic bombs,
you wage wars, you murder, cheat, and lie to us and try to make us believe it's for our own good, yet we're the
criminals.
Yes, I am a criminal. My crime is that of curiosity. My crime is that of judging people by what they say and
think, not what they look like. My crime is that of outsmarting you, something that you will never forgive me for. I am a
hacker, and this is my manifesto. You may stop this individual, but you can't stop us all... after all, we're all alike.
+++The Mentor+++
May the members of the phreak community never forget his words -JR
76. The Myth of the 2600hz Detector by The Jolly Roger
Just about everyone I talk to these days about ESS seems to be scared witless about the 2600hz detector. I don't
know who thought this one up, but it simply does not exist. So many of you people whine about this so-called phreak
catching device for no reason. Someone with AT&T said they had it to catch phreakers. This was just to scare the
blue-boxers enough to make them quit boxing free calls. I'm not saying ESS is without its hang-ups, either. One thing
that ESS can detect readily is the kick-back that the trunk circuitry sends back to the ESS machine when your little
2600hz tone resets the toll trunk. After an ESS detects a kickback it turns an M-F detector on and records any M-F
tones transmitted.
Defeating the kick-back detector
As mentioned in my previous note, kick-back detection can be a serious nuisance to anyone interested in gaining
control of a trunk line. The easiest way to by-pass this detection circuitry is not really by-passing it at all, it is just
letting the kick-back get detected on some other line. This other line is your local MCI, sprint, or other long distance
carrier (except AT&T). The only catch is that the service you use must not disconnect the line when you hit the
2600hz tone. This is how you do it: call up your local extender, put in the code, and dial a number in the 601 area
code and the 644 exchange. Lots of other exchanges work across the country, I'm sure, but this is the only one that I
have found so far. Anyway, when it starts ringing, simply hit 2600Hz and you'll hear the kick-back, (ka-chirp, or
whatever). Then you are ready to dial whoever you want (conferences, inward, route and rate, overseas, etc.) From
the trunk line in operator tones! Since blowing 2600Hz doesn't make you a phreaker until the toll equipment resets
the line, kickback detection is the method AT&T chooses (for now) this information comes as a result of my
experiments & experience and has been verified by local AT&T employees I have as acquaintances. They could only
say that this is true for my area, but were pretty sure that the same idea is implemented across the country.
Now that you know how to access a trunk line or as operators say a loop, I will tell you the many things you can do
with it. Here is a list of AT&T services accessible to you by using a blue box.
A/C+101 TOLL SWITCHING
A/C+121 INWARD OPERATOR
A/C+131 INFORMATION
A/C+141 ROUTE & RATE OP.
A/C+11501 MOBILE OPERATOR
A/C+11521 MOBILE OPERATOR
Starting conferences:
This is one the most useful attributes of blue boxing. Now the confs. are up 24 hours/day and 7 days/week and the
billing lines are being billed. Since I believe the above is true (about the billing lines being billed) I would recommend
that you never let your number show up on the conf. If you started it, put it on a loop and then call the loop. Enough
bullshit!!!!! To start the conf. Dial one of these three numbers in m-f while you are on the trunk.
213+080+XXXX
XXXX=1050,3050
SPECIAL XXXX=1000,1100,1200,1500,2200,2500.
These numbers are in LA and are the most watched, I do not advise using this
NPA.
312+001+1050 OR 3050
914+042+1050 OR 1100,1200 ECT..
I believe only 914 works at the moment.
Once connected with one of these you will either hear a re-order, busy, or chirp. When you hear the chirp enter the
billing line in M-F. I use the conf. dial- up. A billing line example: kp312+001+1050st you will then hear two tutes and
a recording asking you for the number of conferees including yourself. Enter a number between 20 and 30. If you
ever get over 30 people on a conference all you will hear is jumbled voices. After the it says "your conference size is
xx" then hit the pound (#) sign. Add your favorite loop on and hit 6 to transfer control to it. After it says control will be
transferred hang up and call the other side of the loop, hit the pound sign (#) and follow the instructions. A bonus for
conf. is to add an international number dial 1+011+cc+number pretty cool ehhh. A few extra notes. Do not add
numbers that you will want to hang up, add these through MCI or Sprint. You cannot blow anyone off with 2600hz
unless they are in an old x-bar or older system. Many DA operators will stay on after you abuse them; you may have
to start another or at least don't say any numbers. Never add the tone side of a loop onto a conf. never add more
than one MCI node on your conf.
Route & rate:
Note route & rate and RQS perform the same service. R&R simply tells you route and rate info which is very valuable,
ex. Such as the inward routing for an exchange in an area code. An inward routing will let you call her and she can do
an emergency interrupt for you. She can tell you how to get international operators, ect. Here are the terms you are
required to use:
International,
-Operator route for [country, city]. -gives you inward op.
-Directory route for [country, city]. -gives you directory ass.
-City route for [country, city]. -gives you country and city code.
Operator route for [a/c]+ [exchange] -gives you inward op. Route
Ex. [a/c]+ or [a/c]+0xx+ when she says plus she means plus 121.
Numbers route for [state, city] -gives you a/c.
Place name [a/c]+[exchange] -gives you city/state for that a/c and
Exchange.
International calls:
To call international over cable simply access a trunk and dial kp011xxxst wait for sender tone, kpxxxcc-numberst xxx
- a 3 digit country code, it may not be 3 digits so just put 1 or 2 0's in front of it. Cc - is the city code to go by satellite:
Dial kp18xst x - numbers 2-8 wait for sender tone then Kpxxxccnumberst
77. Blue Box by The Jolly Roger
To quote Karl Marx, blue boxing has always been the most noble form of phreaking. As opposed to such things as
using an MCI code to make a free fone call, which is merely mindless pseudo-phreaking, blue boxing is actual
interaction with the Bell System toll network. It is likewise advisable to be more cautious when blue boxing, but the
careful phreak will not be caught, regardless of what type of switching system he is under. In this part, I will explain
how and why blue boxing works, as well as where. In later parts, I will give more practical information for blue boxing
and routing information. To begin with, blue boxing is simply communicating with trunks. Trunks must not be
confused with subscriber lines (or "customer loops") which are standard telefone lines. Trunks are those lines that
connect central offices. Now, when trunks are not in use (i.e., idle or "on-hook" state) they have 2600Hz applied to
them. If they are two-way trunks, there is 2600Hz in both directions. When a trunk IS in use (busy or "off-hook" state),
the 2600Hz is removed from the side that is off-hook. The 2600Hz is therefore known as a supervisory signal,
because it indicates the status of a trunk; on hook (tone) or off-hook (no tone). Note also that 2600Hz denoted SF
(single frequency) signaling and is "in-band." This is very important. "In-band" means that is within the band of
frequencies that may be transmitted over normal telefone lines. Other SF signals, such as 3700Hz are used also.
However, they cannot be carried over the telefone network normally (they are "out-of-band" and are therefore not
able to be taken advantage of as 2600Hz is. Back to trunks. Let's take a hypothetical phone call. You pick up your
fone and dial 1+806-258-1234 (your good friend in Amarillo, Texas). For ease, we'll assume that you are on #5
Crossbar switching and not in the 806 area. Your central office (CO) would recognize that 806 is a foreign NPA, so it
would route the call to the toll center that serves you. [For the sake of accuracy here, and for the more experienced
readers, note that the CO in question is a class 5 with LAMA that uses out-of-band SF supervisory signaling].
Depending on where you are in the country, the call would leave your toll center (on more trunks) to another toll
center, or office of higher "rank". Then it would be routed to central office 806-258 eventually and the call would be
completed.
Illustration
A---CO1-------TC1------TC2----CO2----B
A.... you
CO1.. your central office
TC1.. your toll office.
TC2.. toll office in Amarillo.
CO2.. 806-258 central office.
B.... your friend (806-258-1234)
In this situation it would be realistic to say that CO2 uses SF in-band (2600Hz) signaling, while all the others use outof-
band signaling (3700Hz). If you don't understand this, don't worry. I am pointing this out merely for the sake of
accuracy. The point is that while you are connected to 806-258-1234, all those trunks from YOUR central office
(CO1) to the 806-258 central office (CO2) do *NOT* have 2600Hz on them, indicating to the Bell equipment that a
call is in progress and the trunks are in use. Now let's say you're tired of talking to your friend in Amarillo, so you send
a 2600Hz down the line. This tone travels down the line to your friend's central office (CO2) where it is detected.
However, that CO thinks that the 2600Hz is originating from Bell equipment, indicating to it that you've hung up, and
thus the trunks are once again idle (with 2600Hz present on them). But actually, you have not hung up, you have
fooled the equipment at your friend's CO into thinking you have. Thus, it disconnects him and resets the equipment to
prepare for the next call. All this happens very quickly (300-800ms for step-by-step equipment and 150-400ms for
other equipment). When you stop sending 2600Hz (after about a second), the equipment thinks that another call is
coming towards --> on hook, no tone -->off hook. Now that you've stopped sending 2600Hz, several things happen:
1.A trunk is seized.
2.A "wink" is sent to the CALLING end from the CALLED end indicating that the CALLED end (trunk) is not ready to
receive digits yet.
3.A register is found and attached to the CALLED end of the trunk within about two seconds (max).
4.A start-dial signal is sent to the CALLING end from the CALLED end indicating that the CALLED end is ready to
receive digits. Now, all of this is pretty much transparent to the blue boxer. All he really hears when these four
things happen is a <beep><kerchunk>. So, seizure of a trunk would go something like this:
1.Send a 2600Hz
2.Terminate 2600Hz after 1-2 secs.
3.[beep][kerchunk]
Once this happens, you are connected to a tandem that is ready to obey your every command. The next step is to
send signaling information in order to place your call. For this you must simulate the signaling used by operators and
automatic toll-dialing equipment for use on trunks. There are mainly two systems, DP and MF. However, DP went out
with the dinosaurs, so I'll only discuss MF signaling. MF (multi-frequency) signaling is the signaling used by the
majority of the inter- and intra-lata network. It is also used in international dialing known as the CCITT No« system.
MF signals consist of 7 frequencies, beginning with 700Hz and separated by 200Hz. A different set of two of the 7
frequencies represent the digits 0 thru 9, plus an additional 5 special keys. The frequencies and uses are as follows:
Frequencies(Hz) Domestic International
700+900 1 1
700+1100 2 2
900+1100 3 3
700+1300 4 4
900+1300 5 5
1100+1300 6 6
700+1500 7 7
900+1500 8 8
1100+1500 9 9
1300+1500 0 0
700+1700 ST3p Code 1
900+1700 Stp Code 1
1100+1700 KP KP1
1300+1700 ST2p KP2
1500+1700 ST ST
The timing of all the MF signals is a nominal 60ms, except for KP, which should have a duration of 100ms. There
should also be a 60ms silent period between digits. This is very flexible however, and most Bell equipment will accept
outrageous timings. In addition to the standard uses listed above, MF pulsing also has expanded usages known as
"expanded inband signaling" that include such things as coin collect, coin return, ringback, operator attached, and
operator attached, and operator released. KP2, code 11, and code 12 and the ST_ps (STart "primes" all have special
uses which will be mentioned only briefly here. To complete a call using a blue box once seizure of a trunk has been
accomplished by sending 2600Hz and pausing for the <beep><kerchunk>, one must first send a KP. This readies the
register for the digits that follow. For a standard domestic call, the KP would be followed by either 7 digits (if the call
were in the same NPA as the seized trunk) or 10 digits (if the call were not in the same NPA as the seized trunk).
[Exactly like dialing normal fone call]. Following either the KP and 7 or 10 digits, a STart is sent to signify that no
more digits follow. Example of a complete call:
1.Dial 1-806-258-1234
2.Wait for a call-progress indication (such as ring,busy,recording,etc.)
3.Send 2600Hz for about 1 second.
4.Wait for about ll-progress indication (such as ring,busy,recording,etc.)
5.Send KP+305+994+9966+ST
The call will then connect if everything was done properly. Note that if a call to an 806 number were being placed in
the same situation, the are code would be omitted and only KP + seven digits + ST would be sent. Code 11 and code
12 are used in international calling to request certain types of operators. KP2 is used in international calling to route a
call other than by way of the normal route, whether for economic or equipment reasons. STp, ST2p, and ST3p
(prime, two prime, and three prime) are used in TSPS signaling to indicate calling type of call (such as coin-direct
dialing.
78. Napalm II by The Jolly Roger
[See file #021 of the Cookbook for an easy way to make it!!]
About the best fire bomb is napalm. It has a thick consistency, like jam and is best for use on vehicles or buildings.
Napalms is simply one part gasoline and one part soap. The soap is either soap flakes or shredded bar soap.
Detergents won't do. The gasoline must be heated in order for the soap to melt. The usual way is with a double boiler
where the top part has at least a two-quart capacity. The water in the bottom part is brought to a boil and the double
boiler is taken from the stove and carried to where there is no flame. Then one part, by volume, of gasoline is put in
the top part and allowed to heat as much as it will and the soap is added and the mess is stirred until it thickens. A
better way to heat gasoline is to fill a bathtub with water as hot as you can get it. It will hold its heat longer and permit
a much larger container than will the double boiler.
79. Nitroglycerin Recipe by The Jolly Roger
Like all chemists I must advise you all to take the greatest care and caution when you are doing this. Even if you
have made this stuff before. This first article will give you information on making nitroglycerin, the basic ingredient in
a lot of explosives such as straight dynamites, and gelatin dynamites.
Making nitroglycerin:
1.Fill a 75-milliliter beaker to the 13 mL. Level with fuming red nitric acid, of 98% pure concentration.
2.Place the beaker in an ice bath and allow to cool below room temp.
3.After it has cooled, add to it three times the amount of fuming sulferic acid (99% h2so4). In other words, add to the
now-cool fuming nitric acid 39 mL. Of fuming sulferic acid. When mixing any acids, always do it slowly and
carefully to avoid splattering.
4.When the two are mixed, lower their temp. By adding more ice to the bath, about 10-15øC. (Use a mercuryoperated
thermometer)
5.When the acid solution has cooled to the desired temperature, it is ready for the glycerin. The glycerin must be
added in small amounts using a medicine dropper. (Read this step about 10 times!) Glycerin is added slowly
and carefully (I mean careful!) Until the entire surface of the acid it covered with it.
6.This is a dangerous point since the nitration will take place as soon as the glycerin is added. The nitration will
produce heat, so the solution must be kept below 30øC! If the solution should go above 30øC, immediately
dump the solution into the ice bath! This will insure that it does not go off in your face!
7.For the first ten minutes of nitration, the mixture should be gently stirred. In a normal reaction the nitroglycerin will
form as a layer on top of the acid solution, while the sulferic acid will absorb the excess water.
8.After the nitration has taken place, and the nitroglycerin has formed on the top of the solution, the entire beaker
should be transferred slowly and carefully to another beaker of water. When this is done the nitroglycerin will
settle at the bottom so the other acids can be drained away.
9.After removing as much acid as possible without disturbing the nitroglycerin, remove the nitroglycerin with an
eyedropper and place it in a bicarbonate of soda (sodium bicarbonate in case you didn't know) solution. The
sodium is an alkali and will neutralize much of the acid remaining. This process should be repeated as much as
necessary using blue litmus paper to check for the presence of acid. The remaining acid only makes the
nitroglycerin more unstable than it already is.
10.Finally! The final step is to remove the nitroglycerin from the bicarbonate. His is done with and eye- dropper,
slowly and carefully. The usual test to see if nitration has been successful is to place one drop of the
nitroglycerin on metal and ignite it. If it is true nitroglycerin it will burn with a clear blue flame.
** Caution **
Nitro is very sensitive to decomposition, heating dropping, or jarring, and may explode if left undisturbed and cool.
80. Operation: Fuckup by The Jolly Roger
This is a guide for Anarchists and can be funny for non-believers and 12 and 13 year old runts, and can be a lexicon
of deadly knowledge for True Anarchists... Serious damage is intended to be dealt here. Do not try this stuff unless
you want to do a lot of serious Anarchy.
[Simulation]
Asshole - 'Listen, you little teenager punk shit, shut the fuck up, or I'll knock you down!'
Anarchist - 'O.K. You can't say I didn't warn you. You don't know my rue power...' (soooo casually)
Asshole - 'Well, er, what do you mean?
Anarchist - '<demoniac grin>' As you can see, the Anarchist knows something that this asshole doesn't...
[Operation Fuckup]
Get a wheel barrel or two. Fill with gasoline. Get 16 rolls of toilet paper, unroll & drench in the gasoline. Rip to shreds
in gasoline. Get asbestos gloves. Light a flare (to be punk), grab glob of saturated toilet paper (you can ignite the
glob or not). Throw either flaming or dripping glob into:
Any window (picture is the best)
Front doors
Rough grain siding
Best of all, brick walls
First of all, this bitch is near impossible to get off once dried, and is a terror to people inside when lit! After this...
during the night, get a pickup truck, a few wheel-barrels, and a dozen friends with shovels. The pickup can be used
only for transporting people and equipment, or doing that, and carting all the dirt. When it gets around 12:00 (after the
loser goes beddie - bye), dig a gargantuan hole in his front yard until about 3:00. You can either assign three or four
of your friends to cart the dirt ten miles away in the pickup-bed, or bury his front door in 15' of dirt! After that is done,
get three or four buckets of tar, and coat his windows. You can make an added twist by igniting the tar when you are
all done and ready to run! That is if the loser has a house. If he lives inside an apartment building, you must direct the
attack more toward his car, and front door. I usually start out when he goes to work...I find out what his cheap car
looks like, and memorize it for future abuse...It is always fun to paint his front door (apt.) hot pink with purple polkadots,
and off-neon colors in diagonal stripes. You can also pound a few hundred or so four
inch nails into his front door (this looks like somebody really doesn't like you from the inside). Another great is to fill
his keyhole with liquid steel so that after the bastard closes his door - the only way to get back in is to break it down.
If you can spare it, leave him an axe - that is, implanted three inches into, and through the door! Now, this next one is
difficult, but one of the best! Get a piece of wood siding that will more than cover his front door completely. Nail two
by fours on the edges of the siding (all except the bottom) so you have a barge - like contraption. Make a hole at the
top that will be large enough for a cement slide. Mix about six or seven LARGE bags of QUICK drying cement. Use
the cement slide to fill the antechamber created by the 'barge' that is around his door. Use more two by fours to brace
your little cement-filled barge, and let the little gem dry. When it is, remove the 'barge' so only a stone monolith
remains that covers his door. Use any remaining cement to make a base around this so he can't just push it over.
When I did this, he called the fire department, and they thought he meant wood, so they brought axes. I watched with
a few dozen or so other tenants, and laughed my damn ass off! This is only his door! After he parks his car for the
night, the fun really begins...I start out by opening up the car by jamming a very thin, but loack - inside and out! Then
proceed to put orange-juice syrup all over the seats, so after he gets through all the other shit that you do, he will
have the stickiest
seats in the world. You can then get a few Sunday papers, and crack one of the windows about four inches. Lightly
crumple the papers, and continue to completely fill the inside of his car with the newspapers. A copy of the Sunday
New York Times will nicely fill a Volkswagen! What is also quite amusing is to put his car on cinder blocks, slash his
tires at the top, and fill them with cement! Leave the cinder blocks there so that, after he knocks the car off of them,
he will get about 3 miles to the gallon with those tires, and do 0 to 60 in about two minutes! It is even more hilarious
when he doesn't know why the hell why! Another is to open his hood, and then run a few wires from the sparkplugs to
the METAL body. The sure is one HOT car when it is running! Now, I like to pour two pounds of sugar down his gas
tank. If this doesn't blow every gasket in his engine it will do something called 'caramelizing his engine'. This is when
the extreme heat turns the sugar to caramel, and you literally must completely take the engine out and apart, and
clean each and every individual part! Well, if this asshole does not get the message, you had better start to get
serious. If this guide was used properly & as it was intended (no, not as kindling for the fire), this asshole will either
move far away, seek professional psychological help, commit suicide, or all of the above!
81. Stealing calls from payphones by The Jolly Roger
Now to make free local calls, you need a finishing nail. I highly recommend "6D E.G. FINISH C/H, 2 INCH" nails.
These are about 3/32 of an inch in diameter and 2 inches long (of course). You also need a large size paper clip. By
large I mean they are about 2in long (FOLDED). Then you unfold the paper clip. Unfold it by taking each piece and
moving it out 90ø. When it is done it should look somewhat like this:
/----------\
: :
: :
: :
: :
\-----
Now, on to the neat stuff. What you do, instead of unscrewing the glued-on mouthpiece, is insert the nail into the
center hole of the mouthpiece (where you talk) and push it in with pressure or just hammer it in by hitting the nail on
something. Just DON'T KILL THE MOUTHPIECE! You could damage it if you insert the nail too far or at some
weird angle. If this happens then the other party won't be able to hear what you say. You now have a hole in the
mouthpiece in which you can easily insert the paper clip. So, take out the nail and put in the paper clip. Then take
the other end of the paper clip and shove it under the rubber cord protector at the bottom of the handset (you know,
the blue guy...). This should end up looking remotely like...like this:
/----------\ Mouthpiece
: :
Paper clip --> : : /
: /---:---\
: : :
:------------>
====================\---))):
: To earpiece ->
^ ^
\-------------------->
: :
: :
Cord Blue guy
(The paper clip is shoved under the blue guy to make a good connection between the inside of the mouthpiece and
the metal cord.) Now, dial the number of a local number you wish to call, sayyyy, MCI. If everything goes okay, it
should ring and not answer with the "The Call You Have Made Requires a 20 Cent Deposit" recording. After the
other end answers the phone, remove the paper clip. It's all that simple, see? There are a couple problems,
however. One is, as I mentioned earlier, the mouthpiece not working after you punch it. If this happens to you,
simply move on to the next payphone. The one you are now on is lost. Another problem is that the touch tones
won't work when the paper clip is in the mouthpiece. There are two ways around this..
1.Dial the first 6 numbers. This should be done without the paper clip making the connection, i.e., one side should
not be connected. Then connect the paper clip, hold down the last digit, and slowly pull the paper clip out at
the mouthpiece's end.
2.Don't use the paper clip at all. Keep the nail in after you punch it. Dial the first 6 digits. Before dialing the last
digit, touch the nail head to the plate on the main body of the phone, the money safe thingy..then press the last
number. The reason that this method is sometimes called clear boxing is because there is another type of
phone which lets you actually make the call and listen to them say "Hello, hello?" but it cuts off the
mouthpiece so they can't hear you. The Clear Box is used on that to amplify your voice signals and send it
through the earpiece. If you see how this is even slightly similar to the method I have just described up there,
kindly explain it to ME!! Cause I don't GET IT! Anyways, this DOES work on almost all single slot, Dial Tone
First payphones (Pacific Bell for sure). I do it all the time. This is the least, I STRESS *LEAST*, risky form of
Phreaking.
82. Pool Fun by The Jolly Roger
First of all, you need know nothing about pools. The only thing you need know is what a pool filter looks like. If you
don't know that. Second, dress casual. Preferably, in black. Visit your "friends" house, the one whose pool looks like
fun!! Then you reverse the polarity of his/her pool, by switching the wires around. They are located in the back of the
pump. This will have quite an effect when the pump goes on. In other words. Boooooooooooommm! That's right,
when you mix + wires with - plugs, and vice- versa, the 4th of July happens again. Not into total destruction??? When
the pump is off, switch the pump to "backwash". Turn the pump on and get the phuck out! When you look the next
day, phunny. The pool is dry. If you want permanent damage, yet no great display like my first one mentioned, shut
the valves of the pool off. (There are usually 2) One that goes to the main drain and one that goes to the filter in the
pool. That should be enough to have one dead pump. The pump must take in water, so when there isn't any...
Practical jokes: these next ones deal with true friends and
there is *no* permanent damage done. If you have a pool, you must check the pool with chemicals. There is one
labeled orthotolidine. The other is labeled alkaline (pH). You want orthotolidine. (It checks the chlorine). Go to your
local pool store and tell them you're going into the pool business, and to sell you orthotolidine (a CL detector) Buy
this in great quantities if possible. The solution is clear. You fill 2 baggies with this chemical. And sew the bags to
the inside of your suit. Next, go swimming with your friend! Then open the bags and look like you're enjoying a piss.
And anyone there will turn a deep red! They will be embarrassed so much, Especially if they have guests there!
Explain what it is, then add vinegar to the pool. Only a little. The "piss" disappears.
83. Free Postage by The Jolly Roger
The increasing cost of postage to mail letters and packages is bringing down our standard of living. To remedy this
deplorable situation, some counter control measures can be applied. For example, if the stamps on a letter are
coated with Elmer's Glue by the sender, the cancellation mark will not destroy the stamp: the Elmer's drives to form
an almost invisible coating that protects the stamps from the cancellation ink. Later, the receiver of the letter can
remove the cancellation mark with water and reuse the stamps. Furthermore, ecological saving will also result from
recycling the stamps. Help save a tree. The glue is most efficiently applied with a brush with stiff, short bristles. Just
dip the brush directly into the glue and spread it on evenly, covering the entire surface of the stamp. It will dry in
about 15 minutes. For mailing packages, just follow the same procedure as outlined above; however, the package
should be weighed and checked to make sure that it has the correct amount of postage on it before it is taken to the
Post Office. Removing the cancellation and the glue from the stamps can be easily accomplished by soaking the
stamps in warm water until they float free from the paper. The stamps can then be put onto a paper towel to dry.
Processing stamps in large batches saves time too. Also, it may be helpful to write the word 'Elmer' at the top of the
letter (not on the envelope) to cue the receiving party in that the stamps have been protected with the glue. We all
know that mailing packages can be expensive. And we also know that the handicapped are sometimes discriminated
against in jobs. The Government, being the generous people they are, have given the blind free postal service.
Simply address you envelope as usual, and make one modification. In the corner where the stamp would go, write in
(or stamp) the words 'FREE MATTER FOR THE BLIND". Then drop you package or letter in one of the blue federal
mailboxes. DO NOT TAKE THE LETTER TO THE POST OFFICE, OR LEAVE IT IN YOUR MAILBOX. Sounds very
nice of the government to do this, right? Well, they aren't that nice. The parcel is sent library rate, that is below third
class. It may take four to five days to send a letter to just the next town. This too is quite simple, but less effective. Put
the address that you are sending the letter to as the return address. If you were sending a $20 donation to the
pirate's Chest, you would put our address (PO box 644, Lincoln MA 01773) as the return address. Then you would
have to be careless and forget to put the stamp on the envelope. A nice touch is to put a bullshit address in the
center of the envelope. Again, you MUST drop the letter in a FEDERAL mailbox. If the post office doesn't send the
letter to the return address for having no stamp, they will send it back for the reason of "No such address".
Example:
Pirates Chest Dept. 40DD
P.O. Box 644865
Lincol, Ma. 41773
Tom Bullshit
20 Fake Road
What Ever, XX 99851
One last thing you might try doing is soaking a canceled stamp off of an envelope, and gluing it onto one you are
sending. Then burn the stamp, leaving a little bit to show that there was one there.
84. Unstable Explosives by The Jolly Roger
Mix solid Nitric Iodine with household ammonia. Wait overnight and then pour off the liquid. You will be left with a
muddy substance. Let this dry till it hardens. Now throw it at something!!!!
85. Weird Drugs by The Jolly Roger
Bananas:
1.Obtain 15 pounds of ripe yellow bananas.
2.Peel all and eat the fruit. Save the peelings.
3.Scrape all the insides of the peels with a sharp knife.
4.Put all the scraped material in a large pot and add water.
5.Boil 3 or 4 hours until it has attained a solid paste consistency.
6.Spread paste onto cookie sheets and dry in oven for about 20 minutes. This will result in fine black powder. Usually
one will feel the effects after smoking three to four cigarettes.
Cough syrup:
Mix Robitussion AC with an equal amount of ginger ale and drink. The effect are sedation and euphoria. Never
underestimate the effects of any drug! You can OD on cough syrup!
Toads:
1.Collect five to ten toads, frogs will not work. The best kind are tree toads.
2.Kill them as painlessly as possible, and skin immediately.
3.Allow the skins to dry in a refrigerator four to five days, or until the skins are brittle.
4.Now crush the skins into powder and smoke. Due to its bad taste you can mix it with a more fragrant smoking
medium.
Nutmeg:
1.Take several whole nutmegs and grind them up in an old grinder.
2.After the nutmegs are ground. Place in a mortar and pulverize with a pestle.
3.The usual dosage is about 10 or 15 grams. A larger dose may produce excessive thirst, anxiety, and rapid heart
beat, but hallucinations are rare.
Peanuts:
1.Take 1 pound of raw peanuts (not roasted.)
2.Shell them, saving the skins and discarding the shells.
3.Eat the nuts.
4.Grind up the skins and smoke them.
86. The Art of Carding by The Jolly Roger
Obtaining a credit card number: There are many ways to obtain the information needed to card something. The most
important things needed are the card number and the expiration date. Having the card-holders name doesn't hurt,
but it is not essential. The absolute best way to obtain all the information needed is by trashing. The way this is done
is simple. You walk around your area or any other area and find a store, mall, supermarket, etc., that throws their
garbage outside on the sidewalk or dumpster. Rip the bag open and see if you can find any carbons at all. If you
find little shreds of credit card carbons, then it is most likely not worth your time to tape together. Find a store that
does not rip their carbons at all or only in half. Another way is to bullshit the number out of someone. That is call
them up and say "Hello, this is Visa security and we have a report that your card was stolen." They will deny it and
you will try to get it out of them from that point on. You could say, "It wasn't stolen? Well what is the expiration date
and maybe we can fix the problem.... OK and what is the number on your card?......Thank you very much and have a
nice day." Or think of something to that degree. Another way to get card numbers is through systems such as TRW
and CBI, this is the hard way, and probably not worth the trouble, unless you are an expert on the system. Using
credit card numbers posted on BBS's is risky. The only advantage is that there is a good chance that other people
will use it, thus decreasing the chances of being the sole-offender. The last method of getting numbers is very good
also. In most video rental stores, they take down your credit card number when you join to back-up your rentals. So if
you could manage to steal the list or make a copy of it, then you are set for a LONG time. Choosing a victim: Once
you have the card number, it is time to make the order. The type of places that are easiest to victimize are small
businesses that do mail order or even local stores that deliver. If you have an ad for a place with something you want
and the order number is NOT a 1-800 number then chances are better that you will succeed.
Ordering
When you call the place up to make the order, you must have several things readily at hand. These are the things
you will need: A name, telephone number, business phone, card number (4 digit bank code if the card is
MasterCard), expiration date, and a complete shipping and billing address. I will talk about all of these in detail. A
personal tip: When I call to make an order, it usually goes much smoother if the person you are talking to is a
woman. In many cases they are more gullible than men. The name: You could use the name on the card or the
name of the person who you are going to send the merchandise to. Or you could use the name on the card and have
it shipped to the person who lives at the drop (Say it is a gift or something). The name is really not that important
because when the company verifies the card, the persons name is never mentioned, EXCEPT when you have a
Preferred Visa card. Then the name is mentioned. You can tell if you have a Preferred Visa card by the PV to the
right of the expiration date on the carbon. No phone all day long waiting for the company to call (Which they will),
then the phone number to give them as your home-phone could be one of the following: A number that is ALWAYS
busy, a number that ALWAYS rings, a payphone number, low end of a loop (and you will wait on the other end), or a
popular BBS. NEVER give them your home phone because they will find out as soon as the investigation starts who
the phone belongs to. The best thing would be to have a payphone call forward your house (via Cosm The business
number.) When asked for, repeat the number you used for your home phone. Card number: The cards you will use
will be Visa, Mastercard, and American Express. The best is by far Visa. It is the most straight-forward. Mastercard
is pretty cool except for the bank code. When they ask for the bank code, they sometimes also ask for the bank that
issued it. When they ask that just say the biggest bank you know of in your area. Try to avoid American Express.
They tend to lead full scale investigations. Unfortunately, American Express is the most popular card out. When
telling the person who is taking your call the card number, say it slow, clear, and with confidence. e.g. CC# is 5217-
1234-5678-9012. Pause after each set of four so you don't have to repeat it. Expiration date: The date must be at
LEAST in that month. It is best to with more than three months to go. The address: More commonly referred to as
the 'drop'. Well the drop can range from an abandoned building to your next door neighbors apartment. If you plan
to send it to an apartment building then be sure NOT to include an apartment number. This will confuse UPS or
postage men a little and they will leave the package in the lobby. Here is a list of various drops: The house next door
whose family is on vacation, the apartment that was just moved out of, the old church that will be knocked down in six
months, your friends house who has absolutely nothing to do with the type of merchandise you will buy and who will
also not crack under heat from feds, etc.. There are also services that hold merchandise for you, but personally I
would not trust them. And forget about P.O. Boxes because you need ID to get one and most places don't ship to
them anyway. Other aspects of carding: Verifying cards, seeing if they were reported stolen. Verifying cards: Stores
need to verify credit cards when someone purchases something with one. They call up a service that checks to see if
the customer has the money in the bank. The merchant identifies himself with a merchant number. The service then
holds the money that the merchant verified on reserve. When the merchant sends in the credit card form, the service
sends the merchant the money. The service holds the money for three days and if no form appears then it is put
back into the bank. The point is that if you want to verify something then you should verify it for a little amount and
odds are that there will be more in the bank. The good thing about verification is that if the card doesn't exist or if it is
stolen then the service will tell you. To verify MasterCard and Visa try this number. It is voice: 1-800-327-1111
merchant code is 596719. Stolen cards: Mastercard and Visa come out with a small catalog every
week where they publish EVERY stolen or fraudulently used card. I get this every week by trashing the same place
on the same day. If you ever find it trashing then try to get it every week. Identifying cards: Visa card numbers begin
with a 4 and have either 13 or 16 digits. MasterCard card numbers begin with a 5 and have 16 digits. American
Express begins with a 3 and has 15 digits. They all have the formats of the following:
3xxx-xxxxxx-xxxxx American Express
4xxx-xxx-xxx-xxx Visa
4xxx-xxxx-xxxx-xxxx Visa
5xxx-xxxx-xxxx-xxxx MasterCard
Gold cards: A gold card simply means that credit is good for $5000. Without a gold card, credit would be normally
$2000. To recognize a gold card on a carbon there are several techniques:
American Express-none.
Visa-PV instead of CV.
Note-When verifying a PV Visa, you have to have the real name of the cardholder.
Mastercard-An asterisk can signify a gold card, but this changes depending when the card was issued. I am going to
type out a dialog between a carder and the phone operator to help you get the idea.
Operator: "Over-priced Computer Goods, may I help you?"
Carder: "Hi, I would like to place an order please."
Operator: "Sure, what would you like to order?"
Carder: "400 generic disks and a double density drive."
Operator: "Ok, is there anything else?"
Carder: "No thank you, that's all for today."
Operator: "Ok, how would you like to pay for this? MasterCard or Visa?"
Carder: "Visa."
Operator: "And your name is?"
Carder: "Lenny Lipshitz." (Name on card)
Operator: "And your Visa card number is?"
Carder: "4240-419-001-340" (Invalid card)
Operator: "Expiration date?"
Carder: "06-92."
Operator: "And where would you like the package shipped to?"
Carder: "6732 Goatsgate Port. Paris, Texas, 010166."
Operator: "And what is your home telephone number?"
Carder: "212-724-9970" (This number is actually always busy)
Operator: "I will also need your business phone number in case we have to reach you."
Carder: "You can reach me at the same number. 212-724-9970"
Operator: "O.K. Thank you very much and have nice day."
Carder: "Excuse me, when will the package arrive?"
Operator: "In six to seven days UPS."
Carder: "Thanks a lot, and have a pleasant day."
Now you wait 6-7 days when the package will arrive to the address which is really a house up for sale. There will be
a note on the door saying, "Hello UPS, please leave all packages for Lenny Lipshitz in the lobby or porch. Thanks a
lot, Lenny Lipshitz" (Make the signature half-way convincing)
87. Recognizing credit cards by The Jolly Roger
[Sample: American Express]
XXXX XXXXXX XXXXX
MM/Y1 THRU MM/Y2 Y1
John Doe AX
Explanation:
The first date is the date the person got the card, the second date is the expiration date, after the expiration date is
the same digits in the first year. The American Express Gold has many more numbers (I think 6 8 then 8). If you do
find a Gold card keep it for it has a $5000.00 backup even when the guy has no money!
[Sample: Master Card]
5XXX XXXX XXXX XXXX
XXXX AAA DD-MM-YY MM/YY
John Doe.
Explanation:
The format varies, I have never seen a card that did not start with a 5XXX there is another 4 digits on the next line
that is sometimes asked for when ordering stuff, (and rarely a 3 digit letter combo (e. ANB). The first date is the date
the person got the card and the second date is the expiration date. Master Card is almost always accepted at stores.
[Sample: VISA]
XXXX XXX(X) XXX(X) XXX(X)
MM/YY MM/YY*VISA
John Doe
Explanation:
Visa is the most straight forward of the cards, for it has the name right on the card itself, again the first date is the
date he got the card and the second is the expiration date. (Sometimes the first date is left out). The numbers can
either be 4 3 3 3 or 4 4 4 4. Visa is also almost always accepted at stores, therefore, the best of cards to use.
88. How To Create A New Identity by The Walking Glitch
You might be saying, "Hey Glitch, what do I need a new identity for?" The answer is simple. You might want to go buy
liquor somewhere, right? You might want to go give the cops the false name when you get busted so you keep your
good name, eh? You might even want to use the new identity for getting a P.O. Box for carding. Sure! You might
even want the stuff for renting yourself a VCR at some dickless loser of a convenience store. Here we go: Getting a
new ID isn't always easy, no one said it would be. By following these steps, any bozo can become a new bozo in a
couple of weeks.
STEP 1
The first step is to find out who exactly you'll become. The most secure way is to use someone's ID who doesn't use it
themselves. The people who fit that bill the best are dead. As an added bonus they don't go complaining one bit. Go
to the library and look through old death notices. You have to find someone who was born about the same time as
you were, or better yet, a year or two older so you can buy booze, etc. You should go back as far as you can for the
death because most states now cross index deaths to births so people can't do this in the future. The cutoff date in
Wisconsin is 1979, folks in this grand state gotta look in 1978 or earlier. Anything earlier there is cool. Now, this is the
hardest part if you're younger. Brats that young happen to be quite resilient, taking falls out of three story windows
and eating rat poison like its Easter candy, and not a scratch or dent. There ain't many that die, so ya gotta look your
ass off. Go down to the library and look up all the death notices you can, if it's on microfilm so much the better. You
might have to go through months of death notices though, but the results are well worth it. You gotta get someone
who died locally in most instances: the death certificate is filed only in the county of death. Now you go down to the
county courthouse in the county where he died and get the death certificate, this will cost you around $3-$5
depending on the state you're in. Look at this hunk of paper, it could be your way to vanish in a cloud of smoke when
the right time comes, like right after that big scam. If You're lucky, the slobs parents signed him up with social
security when he was a snot nosed brat. That'll be another piece of ID you can get. If not, that's Ok too. It'll be listed
on the death certificate if he has one. If you're lucky, the stiff was born locally and you can get his birth certificate right
away.
STEP 2
Now check the place of birth on the death certificate, if it's in the same place you standing now you're all set. If not,
you can mail away for one from that county but its a minor pain and it might take a while to get, the librarian at the
desk has listings of where to write for this stuff and exactly how much it costs. Get the Birth certificate, its worth the
extra money to get it certified because that's the only way some people will accept it for ID. When you're getting this
stuff the little forms ask for the reason you want it, instead of writing in "Fuck you", try putting in the word
"Genealogy". They get this all the time. If the Death certificate looks good for you, wait a day or so before getting the
certified birth certificate in case they recognize someone wanting it for a dead guy.
STEP 3
Now your cooking! You got your start and the next part's easy. Crank out your old Dot matrix printer and run off some
mailing labels addressed to you at some phony address. Take the time to check your phony address that there is
such a place. Hotels that rent by the month or large apartment buildings are good, be sure to get the right zip code
for the area. These are things that the cops might notice that will trip you up. Grab some old junk mail and paste your
new labels on them. Now take them along with the birth certificate down to the library.
Get a new library card. If they ask you if you had one before say that you really aren't sure because your family
moved around a lot when you were a kid. Most libraries will allow you to use letters as a form of ID when you get your
card. If they want more give them a sob story about how you were mugged and got your wallet stolen with all your
identification. Your card should be waiting for you in about two weeks. Most libraries ask for two forms of ID, one can
be your trusty Birth Certificate, and they do allow letters addressed to you as a second
form.
STEP 4
Now you got a start, it isn't perfect yet, so let's continue. You should have two forms of ID now. Throw away the old
letters, or better yet stuff them inside the wallet you intend to use with this stuff. Go to the county courthouse and
show them what nice ID you got and get a state ID card. Now you got a picture ID. This will take about two weeks and
cost about $5, its well worth it.
STEP 5
If the death certificate had a social security number on it you can go out and buy one of those metal SS# cards that
they sell. If it didn't, then you got all kinds of pretty ID that shows exactly who you are. If you don't yet have an SS#,
Go down and apply for one, these are free but they could take five or six weeks to get, Bureaucrats you know... You
can invent a SS# too if you like, but the motto of 'THE WALKING GLITCH' has always been "Why not excellence?".
STEP 6
If you want to go whole hog you can now get a bank account in your new name. If you plan to do a lot of traveling
then you can put a lot of money in the account and then say you lost the account book. After you get the new book
you take out all the cash. They'll hit you with a slight charge and maybe tie-up your money some, but if you're ever
broke in some small town that bank book will keep you from being thrown in jail as a vagrant.
ALL DONE?
So kiddies, you got ID for buying booze, but what else? In some towns (the larger the more likely) the cops if they
catch you for something petty like shoplifting stuff under a certain dollar amount, will just give you a ticket, same thing
for pissing in the street. That's it! No fingerprints or nothing, just pay the fine (almost always over $100) or appear in
court. Of course they run a radio check on your ID, you'll be clean and your alter-ego gets a blot on his record. Your
free and clear. That's worth the price of the trouble you've gone through right there. If your smart, you'll toss that ID
away if this happens, or better yet, tear off your picture and give the ID to someone you don't like, maybe they'll get
busted with it. If you're a working stiff, here's a way to stretch your dollar. Go to work for as long as it takes to get
unemployment and then get yourself fired. Go to work under the other name while your getting the unemployment.
With a couple of sets of ID, you can live like a king. These concepts for survival in the new age come to you
compliments of THE WALKING GLITCH.
89. Remote Informer Issue #2 by Tracker, Norman Bates, and Ye Cap'n
Raggers and Braggers
This section is to make you aware of well-known raggers and braggers. Since this is the first time this section is
being printed, we will tell you what classifies people as raggers and braggers. In the future issues the top raggers
and braggers will be listed in this newsletter to let the SysOps know who not to let on their board, or to atleast keep
an eye on. A ragger is someone who will put someone else down for something. The person might post a message
asking a novice question about hacking and phreaking, or may say something that is completely wrong, and a
ragger will put the other person down for he said, posted, etc. The ones that usually classify in this category are
the ones that think they know it all and consider themselves right no matter what anyone says. Most of the users
that use codes and consider themselves a master phreaker usually become raggers.
A bragger is someone who either does or thinks he does know everything, and puts it upon himself to tell the whole
world that he knows it all. This person is also one who thinks he is better than everyone else and he believes he is
Elite, and no one else is. People who tend to do this are those who have, for some reason, become well-known in
the underworld, and as a result become a bragger. Those usually not too well-known will not tend to brag as
much as those who think everyone would love to be their friend and be like them.
As a well-known ragger and bragger, The Toad, learned that it does not help to be one or both of those. He has
since changed and is now easily accepted by most. Most people disliked him because others they knew had said
something bad about him. This is called peer pressure and is a bad influence to those who are new to the
underworld. I would suggest in the future, to not judge someone by what others say, but rather by how they act
around/to you. The current most popular Atarian that classifies as a ragger and a bragger is Ace of Aces, and is wellhated
by many users and SysOps, since he tends to put down anything anyone says and considers himself the best
at writing hacking programs. He is commonly referred to as Ass of Asses and Ass of Assholes. Even holding an open
mind about this guy, you would soon come to find that what others said coincides with what you see from him.
A New 950 has arrived!
LDDS, who as mentioned above bought out TMC, is installing a new 950 port to most major cities. By the time
you read this, it should be in almost every area that supports 950 ports. The number is 950-1450. This port will
dial 976 numbers, but not 700, 800, or 900 numbers. The dialing method for LDDS is: 7 digit code, then even if the
code is bad it will give you a dial tone. Then dial the area code plus the number. If you have a bad code it will
simply say your call cannot be completed as it was dialed. There is a default code used on the system that currently
works. The code is simply, 1234567. I have seen codes from 5 different companies and they all are in the format of
00xxxxx. I do not know what type of software they use, but I will know by the next issue exactly what they place
on the bills. This could be the answer to a lot of people's problems with fear of Sprint and ITT, especially
AllNets. Just remember, Tracker is the one who found this, and all information about it. If someone is seen
saying they found this, then they will be listed in the next issue which will contain an article on leeches.
Mailbox Systems
Mailbox systems are the link between information and the underworld. If you have ever called one, then you will know
the advantages of having one, especially the ones that are open to whole underworld, rather than just a select few.
There are two types of mailbox systems that are widely used. The first type we will talk about is the multiple
mailbox systems, or commonly referred to as message systems. These systems have several mailboxes set up
on one number. Usually, you can access other mailboxes from that number by pressing '*' or '#'. Sometimes you
just enter the mailbox number and you are connected. These are the safest systems to use to protect information
from US Sprint and other long distance companies. Since US Sprint and other companies call the destination
numbers, it is safer to have 800 mailbox systems, and most of the time, the multiple mailbox systems are on 800
numbers. The passcode on these systems can vary in length and can be accessed by several different methods,
so it is impossible to explain exactly how to hack these systems.
The other type is the single mailbox system. These are usually set up in a reserved prefix in an area code. (Ex:
713-684-6xxx) These systems are usually controlled by the same type of hardware/software. To access the area
where you enter the passcode, just hit '0' for a second or so. The passcodes are four (4) digits long. The only way
to hack these is manually. The best thing you could do is to find one that does not have a recording from a person,
but just the digitized voice. If you hack one that someone already owns, they will report it and it will not last as
long.
Here is a list mailboxes or prefixes to help you get started
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Single Multiple Name Digits
213-281-8xxx 212-714-2770 3
213-285-8xxx 216-586-5000 4
213-515-2xxx 415-338-7000 Aspen Message System 3
214-733-5xxx 714-474-2033 Western Digital
214-855-6xxx 800-222-0651 Vincent and Elkins 4
214-978-2xxx 800-233-8488 3
215-949-2xxx 800-447-8477 Fairylink 7
312-450-8xxx 800-521-5344 3
313-768-1xxx 800-524-2133 RCA 4
405-557-8xxx 800-527-0027 TTE TeleMessager 6
602-230-4xxx 800-632-7777 Asynk 6
619-492-8xxx 800-645-7778 SoftCell Computers 4
713-684-6xxx 800-648-9675 Zoykon 4
800-847-0003 Communications World 3
90. Remote Informer Issue #3 by Tracker, Ye Cap'n, Norman Bates
Introduction
It's been a month now, and A LOT has happened. So much, in fact, that the information will be split into several
issues. This should be no shock since I mentioned in the first issue that we may put several issues out sometimes. I
want to congratulate the readers for finally contributing to the newsletter. This first two issues were all on information
that I, myself, obtained. Several people gave me information for these issues, and their handle and information is
included in the articles.
ITT has 9 digits!
For those of you who did not know this, ITT has nine digit codes. They are said to give better connections to some
extent. This info was originally given to us by Party Beast.
Phreaky Phones Go Down!
The famed Phreaky Phones are down again. Modem Man, the original person that started them, has said that they
will be down until further notice. In the meantime, other independent boxes are being started. A listing can be made
of current ones on request.
Magnus Adept Gets Busted
Fellow Atarian and well-known phreak Magnus Adept got caught by MCI. Details of the how, when, and where are not
known at this time. He got caught with 150 codes and may have to pay up to 50 dollars for each code.
Sprint Codes Are Dying Fast!
Sprint codes are hard to get and when they are obtained, they tend to die rather quickly. Phreakers have been
saying that the 950-0777 port is dead, but on the contrary, it is still available in states that are not highly abused by
phreaks. Here again, rumors are being spread.
The Best BBS of the Month
Starting from now on, we will have a BBS of the month. We will choose a BBS, regardless of computer type, and look
at the user participation in phreak related matters, as well as quality discussions on the various illegal topics. A BBS
can remain the BBS of the month as long as they reside above the rest of the BBS systems. Even though we will
sometimes bring out more than one issue in a month, the board will remain BBS of the month until the first issue in
the next month comes out.
This month's BBS of the month is FBI PirateNet. We chose this board because of the large numbers of posts in the
bases, and not only information, but discussions as well, with a minimum number of posts from raggers and
braggers. The number for it is 516-661-7360. The Sysop of FBI PirateNet is The Phantom, not to be confused with
an earlier NARC.
US Sprint Expected to Trim Staff, Consolidate Divisions
New York -- US Sprint Communications Corp., the troubled long distance carrier, is expected to announce soon that
it will cut its work force by several hundred people and reduce its seven regional divisions to 3 operating groups,
sources familiar with the company said.
The company's Pacific division is based in Burlingame, CA. The layoffs and reorganization are part of a plan by US
Sprint's new president, Robert H. Snedaker, to reduce heavy operating losses, which analysts expect to reach more
than $800 million this year.
Snedaker replaced Charles M. Slibo, who was forced to resign in July because losses were running much higher
than the parent companies had expected. Problems with the company's computerized billing system also contributed
to Skibo's ouster. US Sprint is owned and operated by the GTE Corp. and United TeleCom.
According to sources close to Snedaker, who was vice chairman and chief operating officer of United TeleCom, he is
planning to consolidate the company's 7 divisions, which operate in the same geographical regions as the seven
regional Bell operating companies, into 3 divisions.
The rationale for the move, according to industry analysts, is that the company will need a much smaller work force
once it begins handling all it's phone traffic on it's new fiber optic network, which can carry a greater number of
telephone calls at less cost. Company officials have said that they expect to have most of the traffic on the network
by early next year. One source said that there would be more than one round of layoffs in the coming months and
that the company ultimately plans to reduce its 14,000 member work force by 15 percent.
Several top managers are expected to resign as soon as US Sprint centralizes its marketing and support operations
as its headquarters in Kansas City, MO., according to a report in the latest issue of Business Week magazine.
A spokesman for US Sprint said on Friday that the company would not comment on the rumors. The company is the
nation's third largest long distance company, after the American Telephone and Telegraph Co. (AT&T) and MCI
Communications Co.
Last year, Washington based MCI undertook a similar reorganization in which it posted a $502« million loss to write
down old inventory and restructure operations.
Analysts said that is US Sprint is to turn a profit, the company must increase its market share. "To do this, US Sprint
must gain more large business customers, which account for about 80 percent of industry revenues," said Robert B.
Morris III, Securities in San Francisco.
Morris said that by using a slick marketing campaign to differentiate its all-fiber telephone network from those of
competitors, US Sprint more than doubled its customer base last year. But "most of these customers were residential
and small business users that added little to Sprint's bottom line," he added. "If the company expects to be profitable,
it will have to concentrate on providing the best service to volume users."
Secret Service Cracks Down on Teen Hackers
Mount Lebanon, PA -- The US Secret Service and local police departments have put a scare into the hacker
community with a nationwide crackdown on computer crime that has resulted in the arrests of teenage hackers in at
least three cities.
"People who monitor the bulletin boards say there are a lot of nervous hackers out there, wondering who will be
arrested next," says Ronald E. Freedman, vice-president of Advanced Information Management, a Woodbridge, VA
base computer security firm.
Nine teenagers from Mount Lebanon Junior-Senior High School near Pittsburg, PA, were arrested recently and
charged with computer fraud. The juveniles allegedly used home computers to gain illegal access to a credit card
authorization center. They obtained valid credit card numbers and used them to purchase thousands of dollars worth
of mail order merchandise, the police said.
Freedman says it appears the hackers used some relatively sophisticated techniques in the scheme, including
specially written software that enabled them to bypass security controls and navigate through credit records to obtain
key information.
Police officials say that the hackers also obtained access codes from pirate bulletin board systems to make free long
distance calls and gain access to various business and government computers.
The arrests were the result of a 6 week investigation by the Secret Service and the Mount Lebanon police. The police
were tipped off by parents who were suspicious about how their son managed to obtain a skateboard valued at $140.
The Secret Service was also involved in investigations that led to the arrests of several hackers in San Francisco and
New York last July.
Secret Service spokesman William Corbett says that although some reports have portrayed the hackers as part of a
national crime ring, the cases are unrelated. "It's just that a few of these computers hacking cases came to a head at
about the same time," he says.
Federal Legislation enacted in 1984 gives the Secret Service, part of the Department of the Treasury, a major role in
investigating computer crimes. Under the federal Computer Fraud and Abuse Act of 1986, computer fraud is a felony
that carries a maximum penalty of 5 years for the first offense, and 10 years for the second. Displaying unauthorized
passwords on hacking bulletin boards carries a maximum penalty of 1 year in prison for the first offense, and 10
years for the second.
German Teens Crack NASA
Washington, D.C. -- A group of West German teenagers from the Chaos Computer Club penetrated a NASA network
recently, saying they were doing it to "test the security."
What they got into was SPAN Net, a computer network with about 700 notes, which is actually based at the Goddard
Space Center in Maryland. All that's in there is unclassified data, space science information, and post-flight data
analysis. "Anyone with NASA related research can apply for access to SPAN" says a spokesman, who adds that the
network runs on DEC VAX hardware. "We picked up three attempts to gain access and put in security precautions so
it wouldn't happen." His personal opinion is, "We're happy that they couldn't get back in, and decided to go public."
He also added that NASA has many other networks, many of the classified and "probably impenetrable. But I do not
want to challenge anybody." How'd they get in? Probably they got a West German NASA licensee, which gave them a visitor's pass, then they
created new passwords with unlimited security for themselves, after which getting around the network was easy.
91. Remote Informer Issue #4 by Tracker, Norman Bates, Ye Cap'n
Switching Systems
There are currently three different forms of switching systems that are present in the United States today. Step by
Step (SxS), Crossbar, and the Electronic Switching System (ESS) make up the group. Phreaks have always been a
little tentative when it comes to "doing their work" once they have heard about effects of switching systems on their
hobby. After researching this topic, I have found that there really is not that much to be worried about. Read on, while
I share with you information which I have compiled about all of these switching systems and their distinct features.
The first switching system that was used in the country was called Step by Step. This was adopted in 1918 by Bell,
and until 1978, they had over 53% of all their exchanges using Step by Step (SxS). This system is known for it's
long, confusing train of switches that are used for its step by step switching.
Step by Step has many disadvantages to phone users. The switch train becomes jammed fairly often, and it causes
calls to be blocked. Also, SxS does not allow the use of DTMF dialing. This accounts for some of the areas in the
United States that cannot have touch tone dialing abilities. A tremendous amount of electricity and maintenance
needs to accompany the SxS switching system, which makes it even more impratical. All in all, this is probably the
most archaic switching system around.
There are a number of ways to see if you are on SxS. You will notice that there are no pulsing digits after dialing.
Most sources say that the phone company will sound like many typewriters. SxS does not offer features such as
speed calling, call forwarding, three-way calling, call waiting, and other such services. Pay phones on SxS also will
want your money before you receive a dial tone. This adds to the list of disadvantages labeled to that of the Step by
Step switching systems.
Another type of switching system that is prevalent in the United States is Crossbar. Crossbar has been Bell's primary
switcher after 1960, and three types of it exists. Number 1 Crossbar (1xB), Number 4 Crossbar (4xB), and the
Number 5 Crossbar (5xB). In Crossbar, a switching matrix is used for all the phones in an area, and when someone
calls, the route is determined and is met up with the other phone. This matrix is set-up in horizontal and vertical
paths. Unlike other switching systems, in my research, I could not come up with any true and definite distinguishing
features of the Crossbar switching systems.
The Electronic Switching System (ESS) is yet another switching system used in the United States and the most used
of all three switching systems. ESS is an extremely advanced and multi-faced type of switching system, and is feared
by marauders of the phone company everywhere. With ESS, your phone company is able to know every digit dialed
(including mistakes), who you call, when you called, and how long you were connected. ESS is also programmed to
print out the numbers of people who make excessive calls to WATS numbers (800 services) or directory assistance.
This feature of ESS is called 800 Exceptional Calling Report, and has spelled the end of some forms of continuous
code hacks to certain extenders. ESS can also be programmed to print logs of who called and abused certain
numbers as well. Everything is kept track of in its records.
The aforementioned facts show that ESS has made the jobs of organizations such as the FBI, NSA, and other phone
company security forces easier. Tracing can be done in a matter of microseconds, and the result will be conveniently
printed out on the monitor of a phone company officer. ESS is also programmed to pick up any "foreign tones" on
the phone line such as the many varied tones emulated by boxes.
ESS can be identified by a few features common in it. The 911 emergency service is covered in the later versions of
ESS. Also, you are given the dial tone first when using a pay phone unlike that of SxS. Calling services like call
forwarding, speed calling, and call waiting are also common to ESS. One other feature common to ESS is ANI
(Automatic Number Identification) for long distance calls. As you can see, ESS is basically the zenith of all switching
systems, and it will probably plague the entire country by the early 1990's. Soon after, we should be looking forward
to a system called CLASS. This switching system will contain the feature of having the number of the person that is
calling you printed out on your phone.
What have I concluded about these switching systems? Well, they are not good enough. I know a few people
employed by the phone company, and I know for a fact that they do not have enough time these days to worry about
code users, especially in large, metropolitan areas. So, I will go out on a limb here, and say that a large portion of
people will never have to worry about the horrors of ESS.
New Gizmo Can Change Voice Gender
The most amazing device has turned up in the new Hammacher Schlemmer catalog: the telephone voice gender
changer. What it does is change the pitch of your voice from, say, soprano to bass -- a most efficient way to dissuade
an obscene phone caller just as he's getting warmed up. That is not the same as running a 45 rpm. record at 33. In
digital conversion, the pitch can be changed without altering the speed.
The device runs on a 9-volt batter and attaches to the telephone mouth piece with a rubber coupler that takes but a
moment to slip on and off. With the changer switched on, says Lloyd Gray, a Hammacher Schlemmer technical
expert, "the effect is similar to what you hear when they interview an anonymous woman on television and disguise
her voice by deepening it." "It's better for changing a woman's voice to a man's than the other way around," Gray
said. A man can use it to raise the pitch of his voice, but he still won't sound like a woman."
A man could, however, use the changer to disguise his voice. But with the device set on high, Gray's voice still could
be identified as his own. On low, his normal tenor became so gravel like that the words were unintelligible.
92. Remote Informer Issue #5 by Tracker, Norman Bates, and Ye Cap'n
AT&T Rates
WASHINGTON -- American Telephone & Telegraph Co. proposed Tuesday to lower its interstate long-distance rates
by an average of 3.6% to reflect reduced costs in connecting to the local telephone network. The largest decrease --
6.3% -- would be seen in day time prices "Because of the need to make those rates more competitive," AT&T said.
Rates for calls made during evening hours would drop 2.2% and calls made during the late night and weekends
would be cut by 0.8%, the company said. The rate reductions would take effect Jan. 1, if they are approved by the
Federal Communications Commission. Reacting to the proposed price cuts, MCI Communications Corp. and US
Sprint Communications Co., the nation's second-largest and third-largest long distance companies respectively, said
their response would depend on what the FCC finally approves but both said they intended to remain competitive
with AT&T. AT&T, the nation's largest long-distance company, proposed to the FCC that its rates drop as much as
$800 million, but AT&T said the exact amount will depend on the access charges the FCC allows the local telephone
companies to collect from long distance carriers, which must pay the fees to hook into the phone local network.
AT&T has challenged the new access rates filed by the regional Bell operating companies, contending they are more
than $1 billion too high. In proposing its new rates, the long-distance leader told the FCC it expects local companies'
access fees to fall by at least $200 million -- which would amount to an average rate reduction of less than 1%. But
the company said it believes the FCC will order an additional $600 million in reductions based on AT&T's challenge.
"We're confident the FCC will recognize that access charges filed by the local telephone companies need to be
substantially reduced, which would mean more savings for our customers," said Larry Garfinkel, AT&T vice president
for marketing. He said the company filed its proposed rates based on disputed charges because "we wanted to let
the public react ... and further to let the FCC have full knowledge of where we were heading given our expectation
that we had a valid basis for our dispute."
AT&T's long-distance rates have fallen by about 34% since the company was stripped of its local operating
companies by an antitrust decree nearly four years ago. Since then, phone rate payers have been paying a larger
share of the
costs of maintaining the local network through monthly subscriber line charges,
now $2.60 for residential customers. That has reduced the long-distance companies' share of local network
expenses, which they pay in the form of access charges. Jack Grubman, a telephone analyst with PaineWebber Inc.,
said AT&T's proposal targets business customers because "that's where the competition is and where the better
(profit) margins are." In addition, it aims to keep the pressure on competition in international calling by extending
discounts to more customers. Grubman added that, if the company's rate proposal is approved by the FCC, he would
expect no further cuts in AT&T rates in 1988. Wendell Lind, AT&T administrator of rates and tariffs, said the cuts for
business and residential customers are about the same because business cuts are offset by a proposed $128 million
increase in AT&T's private line rates.
AT&T is the only long-distance company whose rates are regulated by the FCC, but its prices set the pace for the
industry. Though AT&T is far larger than any of its competitors, its market share has been declining since divestiture
and the company now says it serves about 75 percent of the market. In addition to the reductions in basic longdistance
rates, AT&T proposed cutting prices by 5% and 5.7% for its Pro-America calling plans. The company also
proposed to reduce prices by 2.9 percent for its 800 Service customers and 4.4 percent for WATS customers,
although it would increase the monthly access line charges for those plans by $3.20 to reflect higher special access
charges filed by the local phone companies.
US Sprint Operator Service Traffic Increases 40%
ORLANDO, Fla. -- US Sprint Wednesday announced its long distance operators who began saying, "May I help
you?" just five months ago, are now handling 3« million calls a month.
The fiber-optic long-distance carrier, offering the only operator service alternative to AT&T has experienced a 40
percent growth in operator service calls since it announced its service July 1. Amanda Weathersby, US Sprint vice
president of product marketing, said Tuesday, "More and more people are taking advantage of our call completion
assistance and alternative billing arrangements. "Customer surcharges are the same as AT&T with the added benefit
of US Sprint's fiber-optic quality and lower long-distance rates." US Sprint currently offers person-to-person, stationto-
station, call completion and collect calling. US Sprint has announced an agreement with US WEST Service Link
that will allow anyone to call on US Sprint and charge their calls to a Regional Bell Operating Co. calling card
beginning in first quarter 1988.
"Previously, our operator service was available only on pre-subscribed US Sprint phones and recently we added
operator assistance for US Sprint FON CARD customers," Weathersby said. "With this new agreement, we'll be able
to expand our operator service to markets such as pay phones, hospitals, and hotels/motels." The newest 24-hour
operator service center in Dallas began operations on Oct. 5. US Sprint's other operator service centers are in:
Cherry Hill, NJ; Atlanta; Lombard, IL and Reno, NV. US Sprint is a joint venture of United Telecommunications Inc. of
Kansas City, MO and GTE Corp. of Stamford, Conn.
Pacific Bell Pursuing Calling Card Thief
SAN FRANCISCO--(BW)--Pacific Bell is warning consumers to protect their telephone calling cards like any other
credit card in the wake of a series of frauds by people posing as phone company employees. A Pacific Bell
spokesman says customers in the 213, 805 and 916 area codes are being victimized by someone who says he is a
telephone company employee investigating calling card fraud. The individual calls people at home at odd hours,
asking for their calling card numbers. He then sells the numbers to people who use the numbers to make long
distance phone calls.
As recently as Monday of this week, 180 long distance calls were billed to a Sacramento area resident who had given
his number to the thief just three hours earlier. According to Pacific Bell, this kind of scheme and other forms of
calling card fraud cost telephone customers nationwide half a billion dollars a year. The company offered these tips to
consumers to avoid becoming a victim
of calling card fraud:
Never give your calling card number or personal identification number to anyone. Any telephone company employee
with a legitimate need to know the number has access to it. Treat your calling card like any other credit card. Report
its loss immediately by calling the 800 number on the back of the card 800-621-0430. If you receive a suspicious
call regarding your telephone calling card, report it by calling the 800 number on the back of the card. If you receive a
call from someone claiming to be a telephone company employee and asking for your calling card number, ask for a
name and number to call back. Then call the local Pacific Bell business office to report the incident.
One suspect was arrested in Southern California last week by a quick thinking customer who did just that. Pacific Bell
immediately contacted the local police department. A suspect holding seven stolen calling card numbers was
arrested minutes later. Pacific Bell and long-distance telephone companies will credit customers for calling card
charges determined to be fraudulent. Pacific Bell is a subsidiary of Pacific Telesis Group, a diversified
telecommunications corporation based in San Francisco.
93. The Phreaker's Guide to Loop Lines by The Jolly Roger
A loop is a wondrous device which the telephone company created as test numbers for telephone repairmen when
testing equipment. By matching the tone of the equipment with the tone of the loop, repairmen can adjust and test the
settings of their telephone equipment. A loop, basically, consists of two different telephone numbers. Let's use A and
B as an example. Normally if you call A, you will hear a loud tone (this is a 1004 hz tone), and if you call B, the line
will connect, and will be followed by silence.
This is the format of a loop line. Now, if somebody calls A and someone else calls B--Viola!--A and B loop together,
and one connection is made. Ma Bell did this so repairmen can communicate with each other without having to call
their own repair office. They can also use them to exchange programs, like for ANA or Ringback. Also, many CO's
have a "Loop Assignment Center". If anyone has any information on these centers please tell me. Anyway, that is
how a loop is constructed. From this information, anyone can find an actual loop line. Going back to the A and B
example, Note: the tone side and the silent side can be either A or B. Don't be fooled if the phone company decides
to scramble them around to be cute. As you now know, loops come in pairs of numbers. Usually, right after each
other.
For example: 817-972-1890
and
817-972-1891
Or, to save space, one loop line can be written as 817-972-1890/1. This is not always true. Sometimes, the pattern is
in the tens or hundreds, and, occasionally, the numbers are random. In cities, usually the phone company has set
aside a phone number suffix that loops will be used for. Many different prefixes will correspond with that one suffix. In
Arlington, Texas, a popular suffix for loops is 1893 and 1894, and a lot of prefixes match with them to make the
number.
For Example: 817-460-1893/4
817-461-1893/4
817-465-1893/4
817-467-1893/4
817-469-1893/4
...are all loops...
or a shorter way to write this is:
817-xxx-1893/4
xxx= 460, 461, 465, 467, 469
Note: You can mix-and-match a popular suffix with other prefixes in a city, and almost always find other loops or test
numbers.
Note: For Houston, the loop suffixes are 1499 and 1799. And for Detroit it's 9996 and 9997. When there are a large
number of loops with the same prefix format, chances are that many loops will be inter-locked. Using the above
example of Arlington loops again, (I will write the prefixes to save space) 460,
461, and 469 are interlocked loops. This means that only one side can be used at
a given time. This is because they are all on the same circuit. To clarify, if 817-461-1893 is called, 817-460 and 469-
1893 cannot be called because that circuit is being used. Essentially, interlocked loops are all the same line, but
there are a variety of telephone numbers to access the line.
Also, if the operator is asked to break in on a busy loop line he/she will say that the circuit is overloaded, or
something along those lines. This is because Ma Bell has taken the checking equipment off the line. However, there
are still many rarely used loops which can be verified and can have emergency calls taken on them. As you have
found out, loops come in many types. Another type of loop is a filtered loop. These are loop lines that the tel co has
put a filter on, so that normal human voices cannot be heard on either line. However, other frequencies may be
heard. It all depends on what the tel co wants the loop to be used for. If a loop has gotten to be very popular with the
local population or used frequently for conferences, etc. the tel co may filter the loop to stop the unwanted "traffic".
Usually, the filter will be removed after a few months, though.
94. How Ma Bell Works by The Jolly Roger
In this article, I will first describe the termination, wiring, and terminal hardware most commonly used in the Bell
system, and I will include section on methods of using them.
LOCAL NETWORK
The local telephone network between the central office/exchange and the telephone subscribers can be briefly
described as follows:
From the central office (or local exchange) of a certain prefix(es), underground area trunks go to each area that has
that prefix (Usually more than one prefix per area.) At every few streets or tract areas, the underground cables
surface. They then go to the telephone pole (or back underground, depending on the area) and then to the
subscribers house (or in the case of an apartment building or mutli-line business, to a splitter or distribution
box/panel). Now that we have the basics, I'll try and go in-depth on the subject.
UNDERGROUND CABLES
These are sometimes inter-office trunks, but usually in a residential area they are trunk lines that go to bridging
heads or distribution cases. The cables are about 2-3 inches thick (varies), and are either in a metal or pvc-type pipe
(or
similar). Rarely (maybe not in some remote rural areas) are the cables just 'alone' in the ground. Instead they are
usually in an underground cement tunnel (resembles a small sewer or storm drain.) The manholes are heavy and will
say 'Bell system' on them. They can be opened with a « inch wide crowbar (Hookside) inserted in the top rectangular
hole. There are ladder rungs to help you climb down. You will see the cable pipes on the wall, with the blue and white
striped one being the inter-office trunk (at least in my area). The others are local lines, and are usually marked or
color coded. There is almost always a posted color code chart on the wall, not to mention Telco manuals describing
the cables and terminals, so I need not get into detail. Also, there is usually some kind of test equipment, and often
Bell test sets are left in there.
BRIDGING HEADS
The innocent-looking grayish-green boxes. These can be either trunk bridges or bridging for residences. The major
trunk bridging heads are usually larger, and they have the 'Western Electric' logo at the bottom, whereas the normal
bridging heads (which may be different in some areas-depending on the company you are served by. GTE B.H.'s
look slightly different. Also, do not be fooled by sprinkler boxes!) They can be found in just about every city. To open
a bridging head: if it is locked (and you're feeling destructive), put a hammer or crowbar (the same one you used on
the manhole) in the slot above the top hinge of the right door. Pull hard, and the door will rip off. Very effective! If it
isn't locked (as usual), take a 7/8 inch hex socket and with it, turn the bolt about 1/8 of a turn to the right (you should
hear a spring release inside). Holding the bolt, turn the handle all the way to the left and pull out. To Check for a testset
(which are often left by Bell employees), go inside - First check for a test-set (which are often left by Bell
employees). There should be a panel of terminals and wires. Push the panel back about an inch or so, and rotate the
top latch (round with a flat section) downward. Release the panel and it will fall all the way forward. There is usually a
large amount of wire and extra terminals. The test-sets are often hidden here, so don't overlook it (Manuals, as well,
are sometimes placed in the head). On the right door is a metal box of alligator clips. Take a few (Compliments of
Bell.). On each door is a useful little round metal device. (Says 'insert gently' or 'clamp gently - do not overtighten'
etc..) On the front of the disc, you should find two terminals. These are for your test set. (If you don't have one, dont
despair - I'll show you ways to make basic test sets later in this article). Hook the ring (-) wire to the 'r' terminal; and
the tip (+) wire to the other. (By the way, an easy way to determine the correct polarity is with a 1«v LED. Tap it to the
term. pair, if it doesn't light, switch the poles until it does. When it lights, find the longer of the two LED poles: This
one will be on the tip wire (+). Behind the disc is a coiled up cord. This should have two alligator clips on it.. Its very
useful, because you don't have to keep connecting and disconnecting the fone (test set) itself, and the clips work
nicely. On the terminal board, there should be about 10 screw terminals per side. Follow the wires, and you can see
which cable pairs are active. Hook the clips to the terminal pair, and you're set! Dial out if you want, or just listen (If
someone's on the line). Later, I'll show you a way to set up a true 'tap' that will let the person dial out on his line and
receive calls as normal, and you can listen in the whole time. More about this later... On major prefix-area bridging
heads, you can see 'local loops', which are two cable pairs (cable pair = ring+tip, a fone line) that are directly
connected to each other on the terminal board. These 'cheap loops' as they are called, do not work nearly as well as
the existing ones set up in the switching hardware at the exchange office. (Try scanning your prefixes ‘00xx to 99xx
#'s.) The tone sides will announce themselves with the 1008 hz loop tone, and the hang side will give no response.
The first person should dial the 'hang' side, and the other person dial the tone side, and the tone should stop if you
have got the right loop.) If you want to find the number of the line that you're on, you can either try to decipher the
'bridging log' (or whatever), which is on the left door. If that doesn't work, you can use the following:
ANI # (Automatic Number ID)
This is a Telco test number that reports to you the number that you're calling from (It's the same, choppy 'Bell bitch'
voice that you get when you reach a disconnected number)
For the:
213 NPA - Dial 1223
408 NPA - Dial 760
914 NPA - Dial 990
These are extremely useful when messing with any kind of line terminals, house boxes, etc. Now that we have
bridging heads wired, we can go on... (don't forget to close and latch the box after all... Wouldn't want GE and Telco
people mad, now, would we?)
"CANS" - Telephone Distribution Boxes
Basically, two types:
1.Large, rectangular silver box at the end of each street.
2.Black, round, or rectangular thing at every telephone pole.
Type 1 - This is the case that takes the underground cable from the bridge and runs it to the telephone pole cable
(The lowest, largest one on the telephone pole.) The box is always on the pole nearest the bridging head, where the
line comes up. Look for the 'Call before you Dig - Underground cable' stickers.. The case box is hinged, so if you
want to climb the pole, you can open it with no problems. These usually have 2 rows of terminal sets. You could try to
impersonate a Telco technician and report the number as 'new active' (giving a fake name and fake report, etc.) I
don't recommend this, and it probably won't (almost positively won't) work, but this is basically what Telco linemen
do.)
Type 2 - This is the splitter box for the group of houses around the pole (Usually 4 or 5 houses). Use it like I
mentioned before. The terminals (8 or so) will be in 2 horizontal rows of sets. The extra wires that are just 'hanging
there' are provisions for extra lines to residences (1 extra line per house, that's why the insane charge for line #3!) If
its the box for your house also, have fun and swap lines with your neighbor! 'Piggyback' them and wreak havoc on
the neighborhood (It's eavesdropping time...) Again, I don't recommend this, and its difficult to do it correctly. Moving
right along...
APARTMENT / BUSINESS MULTI-LINE DISTRIBUTION BOXES
Found outside the building (most often on the right side, but not always... Just follow the wire from the telephone
pole) or in the basement. It has a terminal for all the lines in the building. Use it just like any other termination box as
before. Usually says 'Bell system' or similar. Has up to 20 terminals on it (usually.) the middle ones are grounds
(forget these). The wires come from the cable to one row (usually the left one), with the other row of terminals for the
other row of terminals for the building fone wire pairs. The ring (-) wire is usually the top terminal if the set in the row
(1 of 10 or more), and the tip is
in the clamp/screw below it. This can be reversed, but the cable pair is always terminated one-on-top-of-each- other,
not on the one next to it. (I'm not sure why the other one is there, probably as a provision for extra lines) Don't use it
though, it is usually to close to the other terminals, and in my experiences you get a noisy connection.
Final note: Almost every apartment, business, hotel, or anywhere there is more than 2 lines this termination lines this
termination method is used. If you can master this type, you can be in control of many things... Look around in your
area for a building that uses this type, and practice hooking up to the line, etc. As an added help, here is the basic
'standard' color-code for multi-line terminals/wiring/etc...
Single line: Red = Ring
Green = Tip
Yellow = Ground *
*Connected to the ringer coil in individual and bridged ringer phones (Bell only) Usually connected to the green
(Tip)
Ring (-) = Red
White/Red Stripe
Brown
White/Orange Stripe
Black/Yellow Stripe
Tip (+) = Green (Sometimes yellow, see above.)
White/Green Stripe
White/Blue Stripe
Blue
Black/White Stripe
Ground = Black
Yellow
RESIDENCE TERMINAL BOX
Small, gray (can be either a rubber (Pacific Telephone) or hard plastic (AT&T) housing deal that connects the cable
pair from the splitter box (See type 2, above) on the pole to your house wiring. Only 2 (or 4, the 2 top terminals are
hooked in parallel with the same line) terminals, and is very easy to use. This can be used to add more lines to your
house or add an external line outside the house.
TEST SETS
Well, now you can consider yourself a minor expert on the terminals and wiring of the local telephone network. Now
you can apply it to whatever you want to do.. Here's another helpful item:
How to make a Basic Test-Set and how to use it to dial out, eavesdrop, or seriously tap and record line activity.
These are the (usually) orange hand set fones used by Telco technicians to test lines. To make a very simple one,
take any Bell (or other, but I recommend a good Bell fone like a princess or a trimline. GTE flip fones work
excellently, though..) fone and follow the instructions below.
Note: A 'black box' type fone mod will let you tap into their line, and with the box o, it's as if you weren't there. They
can receive calls and dial out, and you can be listening the whole time! Very useful. With the box off, you have a
normal fone test set.
Instructions:
A basic black box works well with good results. Take the cover off the fone to expose the network box (Bell type fones
only). The <RR> terminal should have a green wire going to it (orange or different if touch tone - doesn't matter, its
the same thing). Disconnect the wire and connect it to one pole of an SPST switch. Connect a piece of wire to the
other pole of the switch and connect it to the <RR> terminal. Now take a 10kohm « watt 10% resistor and put it
between the <RR> terminal ad the <F> terminal, which should have a blue and a white wire going to it (different for
touch tone). It should look like this:
-----Blue wire----------<F>
!
----White wire-----!
!
10k Resistor
!
!
--Green wire-- !----<RR>
! !
SPST
What this does in effect is keep the hookswitch / dial pulse switch (F to RR loop) open while holding the line high with
the resistor. This gives the same voltage effect as if the fone was 'on-hook', while the 10k ohms holds the voltage
right above the 'off hook' threshold (around 22 volts or so, as compared to 15-17 or normal off hook 48 volts for
normal 'on-hook'), giving Test Set Version 2.
Another design is similar to the 'Type 1' test set (above), but has some added features:
From >----------------Tip------<To Test
Alligator set
Clip >----------------Ring-----<phone
! !
x !
! !
o !
! x---RRRRR---!
! x !
!---x !
x----0------!
x = Spst Switch
o = Red LOD 0 = Green LED
RRRRR= 1.8k « watt xxxx= Dpst switch
resistor
When the SPST switch in on, the LED will light, and the fone will become active. The green light should be on. If it
isn't, switch the dpst. If it still isn't, check the polarity of the line and the LEDs. With both lights on, hang up the fone.
They should all be off now. Now flip the dpst and pick up the fone. The red LED should be on, but the green
shouldn't. If it is, something is wrong with the circuit. You wont get a dial tone if all is correct. When you hook up to
the line with the alligator clips (Assuming you have put this circuit inside our fone and have put alligator clips on the
ring and tip wires (As we did before)) you should have the spst #1 in the off position. This will greatly reduce the static
noise involved in hooking up to a line. The red LED can also be used to check if you have the correct polarity. With
this fone you will have the ability to listen in on all audible line activity, and the people (the 'eavesdroppers')
can use their fone as normal. Note that test sets #1 and #2 have true 'black boxes', and can be used for free calls
(see an article about black boxes).
Test Set Version 3
Using a trimline (or similar) phone, remove the base and cut all of the wire leads off except for the red (ring -) and the
green (tip +). Solder alligator clips to the lug. The wire itself is 'tinsel' wrapped in rayon, and doesn't solder well. Inside
the one handset, remove the light socket (if it has one) and install a small slide or toggle switch (Radio Shack's
micro-miniature spst works well). Locate the connection of the ring and the tip wires on the PC board near where the
jack is located at the bottom of the handset. (The wires are sometimes black or brow instead of red and green,
respectively). Cut the foil and run 2 pieces of wire to your switch. In parallel with the switch add a ¬ uf 200 VDC
capacitor (mylar, silvered mica, ceramic, not an electrolytic). When the switch is closed, the handset functions
normally. With the switch in the other position, you can listen without being heard.
Note: To reduce the noise involved in connecting the clips to a line, add a switch selectable 1000 ohm « watt resistor
in series with the tip wire. Flip it in circuit when connecting, and once on the line, flip it off again. (or just use the 'line
disconnect' type switch as in the type 2 test set (above)). Also avoid touching the alligator clips to any metal parts or
other terminals, for I causes static on the line and raises people's suspicions.
RECORDING
If you would like to record any activity, use test set 1 or 2 above (for unattended recording of all line activity), or just
any test set if you are going to be there to monitor when they are dialing, talking, etc. Place a telephone pickup coil (I
recommend the Becoton T-5 TP coil or equivalent) onto the test set, and put the TP plug into the mic. jack of any
standard tape recorder. Hit play, rec, and pause. Alternate pause when you want to record (I don't think anyone
should have any difficulty with this at all...) Well, if you still can't make a test set or you don't have the parts, there's
still hope.
Alternate methods:
1.Find a bell test set in a manhole or a bridging head and 'Borrow it indefinitely'...
2.Test sets can be purchased from:
Techni-Tool
5 Apollo Road
Box 368
Plymouth Meeting PA., 19462
Ask for catalog #28
They are usually $300 - $600, and are supposed to have M-F dialing capability as well as TT dialing. They are also of
much higher quality than the standard bell test sets. If you would like to learn more about the subjects covered here, I
suggest:
1.Follow Bell trucks and linemen or technicians and ask subtle questions. also try 611 (repair service) and ask
questions..
2.Explore your area for any Bell hardware, and experiment with it. Don't try something if you are not sure what you're
doing, because you wouldn't want to cause problems, would you?
95. Getting Money out of Pay Phones by The Jolly Roger
I will now share with you my experiences with pay telephones. You will discover
that it is possible to get money from a pay phone with a minimum of effort. Theory: Most pay phones use four wires
for the transmission of data and codes to the central office. Two of them are used for voice (usually red and green),
one is a ground, and the last is used with the others for the transmission of codes.
It is with this last wire that you will be working with. On the pay phone that I usually did this to, it was colored purple,
but most likely will be another color. What you will do is simply find a pay phone which has exposed wires, such
that one of them can be disconnected and connected at ease without fear of discovery. You will discover that it is
usually a good idea to have some electrical tape along with you and some tool for cutting this tape. Through trial and
error, you will disconnect one wire at a time starting with the wires different than green and red. You do want a dial
tone during this operation. What you want to disconnect is the wire supplying the codes to the telephone company so
that the pay phone will not get the 'busy' or 'hang-up' command. Leave this wire disconnected when you discover it.
What will happen: Anytime that someone puts any amount of money into the pay phone, the deposit will not register
with the phone company and it will be held in the 'temporary' chamber of the pay phone. Then, (a day later or so) you
just come back to the phone, reconnect the wire, and click the hook a few times and the phone will dump it all out the
chute. (What is happening is that the 'hang-up' code that the phone was not receiving due to the wire being
disconnected suddenly gets the code and
dumps its' 'temporary' storage spot.) You can make a nice amount of money this way, but remember that a repairman
will stop by every few times it is reported broken and repair it, so check it at least once a day. Enjoy and have fun..
Many phones I have done this to, and it works well with each..
96. Computer Based PBX by The Jolly Roger
To get a better understanding of what a pbx can do, here are a few basic fundamentals. The modern pbx is a
combined computer, mass storage device, and of course a switching system that can:
1.Produce itemized, automated billing procedures, to allow the identification and management of toll calls.
[hahaha]
2.Combine daytime voice grade communication circuits into wideband data channels for night time high speed data
transfers.
3.Handles electronic mail [including office memos].
4.Combine voice channels into a wideband audio/visual conference circuit, with the ability to xfer and capture slides,
flipcharts, pictures of any kind.
Both the external and internal calling capacity of the pbx system must be carefully considered because many
business operations run a very high ratio of internal station to station dialing and a low capacity system will not
handle the requested traffic load. A critical factor is the number of trunks and the central office facilities that are used
for outside connections. Another is the number of junctions or [links] that make up the internal calling paths. To
understand the services available on a typical computer run pbx it is necessary to introduce the subject of time
division switching. In a time division switching network all connections are made via a single common bus called (of
course) a 'time-division bus'. Every line trunk that requires a connection with another is provided with a port circuit. All
port circuits have access to the time division bus through a time division switch. [when two ports require connection,
their time division switches operate at a very high frequency (16,000 times per second.) This technique, which is
called 'speech sampling', allows many simultaneous connections over the same time division bus. Each connection is
assigned a time interval, the 'time slot', and the number of time slots identifies the number of simultaneous
connections among ports.] The next critical item is circuit packs. The system elements that we will be describing in
future tutorials [lines/trunks/switches, memory and control] are contained on plug in circuit packs. Each line circuit
pack contains a number of lines, in example, four. But the assignment of station numbers to actual phone line circuits
is flexible. The system memory is contained in circuit packs which provide the call processing functions. The circuit
packs are held in small frames called 'carriers'. Within each carrier, the circuit packs are plugged into positions: the
'slots'. Every circuit can be addressed by, say a five digit number which tells its location by carrier-slot-circuit....
[starting to get the idea?] There can be three types of carriers in a modern pbx system:
O line carriers
0 trunk carriers
O control carriers
The line carriers contain station lines. In AT&T's "dimension" model, for example, a total of 52 to 64 lines are
provided. The trunk carriers contain slots for 16 trunk circuit packs. The control carrier includes processor, memory,
control circuitry, data channels for attendant console control and traffic measurement outputs. Pbx systems will
directly reflect the types of services offered at the c.o.
o ccsa
o ccis
o picturephones [sooner than you think my phriends]
Common control switching arrangements (ccsa) permit any unrestricted telephone station to call any other internal or
external system station by using the standard seven digit number. Alternate routing is a feature of ccsa service the
inter-facility, alternate routed calling paths are accomplished at the telephone company central office level, not at the
pbx level. A system of interest to large scale telephone users is common channel interoffice signaling ccis. Typically,
this technique employs common channels to carry all inter-facility signaling instructions: dial pulses, on hook (idle),
off hook (busy),and so on, between two switching centers. [getting warm]. Ccis replaces older methods of interoffice
signaling such as 'in band' and 'out of band' techniques. By the way, real phreaks are selling their boxes to idiots who
still think they're worth a lot...the former (in band) transmits signaling data within the normal conversation bandwidth.
It’s shortcoming is that false information may be transmitted due to unique tone or noise combinations set up in the
talking path. [this is the official reasoning]. Out of band signaling techniques placed the interoffice data in special
channels, generally adjacent to and immediately above the voice path. To preserve interchannel integrity, out of band
signaling requires very efficient filtering or greater 'band guard' separation between channels.
97. PC-Pursuit Port Statistics by PC-Pursuit Users
Introduction:
The last 30 days of PC-Pursuit have been extremely controversial. Users and ex-users have demanded accurate
statistics, and Telenet has provided us with very little. And the data that was provided is questionable. Well, here is
some data that is guaranteed to be accurate and make Telenet scream. If you wish to update this data on your own,
we will tell you how later in this text. The following chart consists of all the direct Telenet addresses of the PC-Pursuit
city nodes and the total number of modems on each node. Here is what the data means:
NJNEW/3 2011 .12 56
! ! ! ! \-- Total Number of Modems in NJNEW
! ! ! \- Last Working Suffix of Address sequence.
! ! \- Direct Telenet Address Prefix.
! \--- Baud Rate of This Port is 300.
\--------- Mnemonic.
Please note that there are several perfectly legal ways to connect to a PC-Pursuit port such as NJNEW/3:
Ways To Connect to NJNEW/3:
1.C D/NJNEW/3,PCP10000,<password> [HUNT]
2.C 2011,PCP10000,<password> [HUNT]
3.C 2011.10,PCP10000,<password> [NON HUNT]
The first, is self explanatory. The second does the same thing as the first, only that it is slightly faster and gives the
user much greater flexibility. The third is an example the flexibility, because a request is made to connect to the
tenth, and only the tenth, modem on the NJNEW/3 port. By simply attempting to connect to every single modem in
the 2011 chain, we were able to count the number of modems on each port and come up with the following charts
which were extracted on June the twenty ninth of the year 1989:
Rotary Port Direct Address Max. Range City Total Rotary Port Direct Address Max.
Range City Total
NJNEW/3 2011 .12 56 CAOAK/3 4155 .4 16
/12 201301 .4 /12 415216 .8
/24 20122 .4 /24 41511 .4
DCWAS/3 202115 .6 46 CAPAL/3 415106 .4 12
/12 202116 .24 /12 415224 .8
/24 202117 .16 /24 NONE NONE
CTHAR/3 NONE NONE 8 CASFA/3 415215 .6 20
/12 203120 .8 /12 415217 .10
/24 NONE NONE /24 41523 .4
WASEA/3 20617 .4 30 ORPOR/3 50320 .2 8
/12 20619 .22 /12 50321 .6
/24 20621 .4 /24 NONE NONE
NYNYO/3 212315 .4 22 AZPHO/3 60222 .4 20
/12 212316 .14 /12 60223 .12
/24 21228 .4 /24 60226 .4
CALAN/3 213412 .8 40 MNMIN/3 612120 .4 22
/12 213413 .28 /12 612121 .14
/24 21323 .4 /24 61222 .4
TXDAL/3 214117 .6 30 MABOS/3 617311 .4 32
/12 214118 .22 /12 617313 .20
/24 21422 .4 /24 61726 .8
PAPHI/3 215112 .6 36 TXHOU/3 713113 .8 42
/12 2155 .22 /12 713114 .24
/24 21522 .8 /24 71324 .1
OHCLE/3 21620 .4 26 CACOL/3 71423 .4 18
/12 21621 .18 /12 7144 .1
/24 216120 .4 /24 71424 .4
CODEN/3 303114 .4 40 CASAN/3 714119 .4 20
/12 303115 .18 /12 714213 .12
/24 30321 .22 /24 714124 .4
FLMIA/3 305120 .6 28 CASDI/3 714102 .4 22
/12 305121 .18 (619)/12 714210 .14
/24 305122 .4 /24 714121 .4
ILCHI/3 312410 .8 40 UTSLC/3 80120 .4 22
/12 312411 .28 /12 80121 .14
/24 31224 .4 /24 80112 .4
MIDET/3 313214 .6 30 FLTAM/3 81320 .4 18
/12 313216 .18 /12 81321 .1
/24 31324 .6 /24 813124 .4
MOSLO/3 3145 .4 16 MOKCI/3 816104 .4 20
/12 314421 .8 /12 816221 .12
/24 31420 .4 /24 816113 .4
GAATL/3 404113 .8 32 CAGLE/3 NONE NONE ??
/12 404114 .20 /12 81821 .18
/24 40422 .4 /24 NONE NONE
CASJO/3 408111 .4 34 CASAC/3 9167 .4 16
/12 40821 .26 /12 91611 .8
/24 408110 .4 /24 91612 .4
WIMIL/3 41420 .4 24 NCRTP/3 91920 .4 20
/12 41421 .16 /12 91921 .12
/24 414120 .4 /24 919124 .4
NOTE: CASAC/3, CASAC/24 were estimated.
PC-Pursuit Modems Statistics Chart
Number of Modems - 01/29/89
Mnemonic 300 1200 2400 Total
NJNEW 12 40 4 56
DCWAS 6 24 16 46
CTHAR 0 8 0 8
WASEA 4 22 4 30
NYNYO 4 14 4 22
CALAN 8 28 4 40
TXDAL 6 22 4 32
PAPHI 6 22 8 36
OHCLE 4 18 4 26
CODEN 4 18 22 44
FLMIA 6 18 4 28
ILCHI 8 28 4 40
MIDET 6 18 6 30
MOSLO 4 8 4 16
GAATL 8 20 4 32
CASJO 4 26 4 34
WIMIL 4 16 4 24
CAOAK 4 8 4 16
APAL 4 8 0 12
CASFA 6 10 4 20
ORPOR 2 6 0 8
AZPHO 4 12 4 20
MNMIN 4 14 4 22
MABOS 4 20 8 32
TXHOU 8 24 10 42
CACOL 4 10 4 18
CASAN 4 12 4 20
CASDI 4 14 4 22
UTSLC 4 14 4 22
FLTAM 4 10 4 18
MOKCI 4 12 4 20
CAGLE 4 18 4 26
CASAC 4 8 4 16
NCRTP 4 12 4 20
Total 166 562 170 898
Average 4.8823529 16«29412 5 26.411765
I think the statistics basically speak for themselves. I am sure there will no doubt be hundreds of people who will not
smile at the number of specific kinds of ports supported, not to mention the number of 'dead' or 'down' modems you
will find when you verify the totals. Usually, 2% to perhaps 10% of the modems are 'dead' with specific ones
repeatedly failing week after week.
History Of This Collection:
Almost a year ago a small selected group of devoted individuals got together to discuss problems with the PC-Pursuit
Network, in the middle of our discussions a question was asked as to how the network really processes our calls.
This was intended to help us assess SET commands and other such matters. When the address hypothesis was
offered we quickly set out to prove it. It was proved in about 3 minutes with the discovery of 2011 (First try was xxx1).
The data has continually been collected and analyzed ever since, but until now, has never been mass released.
A small group of teen age hackers discovered several interesting things that can be done with these addresses --
many of which will not be discussed here short of mentioning that these ports connected to via these addresses are
not limited to PC-Pursuiters. You can, however, fight "dead" dialout modems in cities via the address method. Dead
modems can be located in about 10 seconds (faster than Telenet), and can either be reported or skipped past by the
user connecting to the next modem in the sequence after the "dead" one. (Note: Say 2011.3 is dead, connect to
2011.4 and you will be past it. If 2011.4 is busy, go to 2011«. The reader should notice 2011.3 is the same as
2011C.)
The most interesting value of these addresses is that one can count the number of ports that Telenet keeps so secret
(Grin). When there were only 28 cities in operation there were an average of 2.7 300 baud, 9.4 1200 baud, and 2«
2400 baud modems in each city. Some cities had as little as 2 modems on a port and as many as 12. Only recently
has the number of modems per city begun to jump.
How To Update The Count Yourself:
An ID is not required to "request" one of these ports, thus the tallying can be done any time of day by simply typing
the number at the @ prompt. Here is an example with four modems (NJNEW/24):
@20122.1
201 22A REFUSED COLLECT CONNECTION 19 80
@20122.2
201 22B REFUSED COLLECT CONNECTION 19 80
@20122.3
201 22C REFUSED COLLECT CONNECTION 19 80
@20122.4
201 22D REFUSED COLLECT CONNECTION 19 80
@20122«
201 22E ILLEGAL ADDRESS 19 80
The reader should be aware that PC-Pursuit ports always respond with '19 80'. Do not confuse it with '19 00', which
are not PC-Pursuit ports. In the above example we know there are four ports because the forth was the last existing
port before we encountered the 'ILLEGAL ADDRESS.' There are several ways to signify that you have gone one
beyond the end of the ports:
1.xxx xxx ILLEGAL ADDRESS 19 80
2.xxx xxx NOT OPERATING 19 80
3.The request freezes (Note: Issue a BREAK then D <C/R> to abort the attempt yielding 'ATTEMPT
ABORTED'.)
You should be aware that modems which are out of order in the middle of the sequence can respond with 'NOT
OPERATING' or may freeze the request. You should also note that when updating the existing list, all you need to do
is try to request the next modem beyond the end as of the last check.
Finding Newly Added Ports:
Many ports have not yet been installed; hence, we do not yet know the addresses. New ports may be found by
entering the first three digits of the area code and appending (1-29, 101-129, 201-229, 301-329, etc.) until the
'REFUSED COLLECT CONNECTION 19 80' appears. Once this is found, simply log onto the port address with
your ID and R/V dial some silly series of digits, disconnect the port, then connect to the PC-Pursuit mnemonic you
think it might be and R/V redial the last number. If the numbers match, you found it.
98. Pearl Box Plans by The Jolly Roger
The Pearl Box: Definition - This is a box that may substitute for many boxes which produce tones in hertz. The Pearl
Box when operated correctly can produce tones from 1-9999hz. As you can see, 2600, 1633, 1336 and other crucial
tones are obviously in its sound spectrum.
Materials you will need:
1.C1, C2:«mf or «uf ceramic disk capacitors
2.Q1.....NPN transistor (2N2222 works best)
3.S1.....Normally open momentary SPST switch
4.S2.....SPST toggle switch
5.B1.....Standard 9-Volt battery
6.R1.....Single turn, 50k potentiometer
7.R2.....Single turn, 100k potentiometer
8.R3.....Single turn, 500k potentiometer
9.R4.....Single turn, 1Meg potentiometer
10.SPKR...Standard 8-ohm speaker
11.T1.....Mini transformer (8-ohm works best)
12.Misc...Wire, solder, soldering iron, PC board or perfboard, box to contain the completed unit, battery clip
Instructions for building Pearl Box:
Since the instruction are EXTREMELY difficult to explain in words, you will be given a schematic instead. It will be
quite difficult to follow but try it any way.
(Schematic for The Pearl Box)
+---+------------+---------+
! ! \
C1 C2 \
! ! +
+ + -----+T1
!\ +------------+-+
! b c-------! +
! Q1 ! +-S1-
! e-----S2---+ ! SPKR
! ! ! +----
! B1 !
! ! !
! +-------+
!R1 R2 R3 R4!
/\/\ /\/\ /\/\ /\/\
+--+ +--+ +--+
Now that you are probably thoroughly confused, let me explain a few minor details. The potentiometer area is rigged
so that the left pole is connected to the center pole of the potentiometer next to it. The middle terminal of T1 is
connected to the piece of wire that runs down to the end of the battery.
Correct operation of The Pearl Box:
You may want to get some dry-transfer decals at Radio Shack to make this job a lot easier. Also, some knobs for the
tops of the potentiometers may be useful too. Use the decals to calibrate the knobs. R1 is the knob for the ones
place, R2 is for the tens place, R3 if for the hundreds place and R4 is for the thousands place. S1 is for producing the
all the tones and S2 is for power.
1.Turn on the power and adjust the knobs for the desired tone.
(Example: For 2600 hz-R1=0:R2=0:R3=6:R4=2)
2.Hit the push-button switch and VIOLA! You have the tone. If you don't have a tone recheck all connections and
schematic.
99. The Phreak file by The Jolly Roger
202 282 3010 UNIV. OF D.C.
202 553 0229 PENTAGON T.A.C.
202 635 5710 CATHOLIC UNIV. OF AMERICA
202 893 0330 DEFENSE DATA NETWORK
202 893 0331 DEFENSE DATA NETWORK
202 965 2900 WATERGATE
203 771 4930 TELEPHONE PIONEERS
206 641 2381 VOICE OF CHESTER
212 526 1111 NEW YORK FEED LINE
212 557 4455 SEX HOT LINE
212 799 5017 ABC NY FEED LINE
212 934 9090 DIAL-AN-IDIOT
212 976 2727 P.D.A.
212 986 1660 STOCK QUOTES
213 541 2462 STOCK MARKET REPORTS
213 547 6801 NAVY SHIPS INFO
213 576 6061 " "
213 664 3321 NEWS FOR THE BLIND
301 393 1000 " "
301 667 4280 LOTTERY INFO
312 939 1600 " "
404 221 5519 NUCLEAR COMMISSION
408 248 8818 1ST NATIONAL BANK
415 642 2160 EARTHQUAKE REPORT
505 883 6828 " "
512 472 2181 " "
512 472 4263 WEIRD RECORDING
512 472 9833 " "
512 472 9941 INSERT 25 CENTS
512 472 9941 SPECIAL RECORDING
512 870 2345 " "
516 794 1707 " "
619 748 0002 LOOP LINE
619 748 0003 " "
703 331 0057 MCI (5 DIGITS)
703 334 6831 WASH. POST
703 354 8723 COMPEL INC.
703 737 2051 METROPHONE (6 DIGITS)
703 835 0500 VALNET (5 DIGITS)
703 861 7000 SPRINT (6/8 DIGITS)
703 861 9181 SPRINT (6/8 DIGITS)
714 974 4020 CA. MAINFRAME
716 475 1072 N.Y. DEC-SYSTEM
800 222 0555 RESEARCH INSTITUTE
800 223 3312 CITIBANK
800 227 5576 EASTERN AIRLINES
800 248 0151 WHITE HOUSE PRESS
800 321 1424 FLIGHT PLANES
800 323 3026 TEL-TEC (6 GIGITS)
800 323 4756 MOTOROLA DITELL
800 323 7751 MCI MAINFRAME
800 325 4112 EAsYLINK
800 325 6397 FYI
800 344 4000 MSG SYSTEM
800 368 6900 SKYLINE ORDER LINE
800 424 9090 RONALD REAGAN'S PRESS
800 424 9096 WHITE HOUSE SWITCH
800 438 9428 ITT CITY CALL SWITCHING
800 521 2255 AUTONET
800 521 8400 TRAVELNET (8 DIGITS)
800 526 3714 RCA MAINFRAME
800 527 1800 TYMNET
800 621 3026 SPECIAL OPERATOR
800 621 3028 " "
800 621 3030 " "
800 621 3035 " "
800 631 1146 VOICE STAT
800 821 2121 BELL TELEMARKETING
800 828 6321 XEROX $
800 858 9313 RECORD-A-VOICE
800 882 1061 AT&T STOCK PRICES
914 997 1277 " "
916 445 2864 JERRY BROWN
N/A 950 1000 SPRINT
N/A 950 1022 MCI EXECUNET
N/A 950 1033 US TELEPHONE
N/A 950 1044 ALLNET (6 DIGITS)
N/A 950 1066 LEXITEL
N/A 950 1088 SKYLINE (6 DIGITS)
-----------------------------------
PHONE # | DESCRIPTION/CODE
-----------------------------------
201-643-2227 | CODES:235199, 235022 AND 121270
|
800-325-4112 | WESTERN UNION
|
800-547-1784 | CODES:101111, 350009 AND 350008
|
800-424-9098 | TOLL FREE WHITE HS.
|
800-424-9099 | DEFENSE HOT LINE
|
202-965-2900 | WATERGATE
|
800-368-5693 | HOWARD BAKER HOTLINE
|
202-456-7639 | REAGANS SECRETARY
|
202-545-6706 | PENTAGON
|
202-694-0004 | PENTAGON MODEM
|
201-932-3371 | REUTERS
|
800-325-2091 | PASSWORD: GAMES
|
800-228-1111 | AMERICAN EXPRESS
|
617-258-8313 | AFTER CONNECT PRESS CTRL-C
|
800-323-7751 | PASSWORD:REGISTER
|
800-322-1415 | CODES:266891, 411266 AND 836566 (USED BY SYSOP)
The following 800 #'s have been collected however no codes have been found yet! if you hack any please let me
know...
-----------------------------------
phone # | codes:
-----------------------------------
800-321-3344 | ???????????
800-323-3027 | ???????????
800-323-3208 | ???????????
800-323-3209 | ???????????
800-325-7222 | ???????????
800-327-9895 | ???????????
800-327-9136 | ???????????
800-343-1844 | ???????????
800-547-1784 | ???????????
800-547-6754 | ???????????
800-654-8494 | ???????????
800-682-4000 | ???????????
800-858-9000 | ???????????
800 numbers with carriers.
800-323-9007
800-323-9066
800-323-9073
800-321-4600
800-547-1784
1-800 numbers of the government.
800-321-1082:NAVY FINANCE CENTER.
800-424-5201:EXPORT IMPORT BANK.
800-523-0677:ALCOHOL TOBACCO AND.
800-532-1556:FED INFORMATION
CNTR1-1082:NAVY FINANCE CENTER "Yes, I've heard about it. Some other phone phreaks have told me about it."
"They have been referring to my, ahem, unit? What is it they said? Just out of curiosity, did they tell you it was a
highly sophisticated computer-operated unit, with acoustical coupling for receiving outputs and a switch-board with
multiple-line-tie capability? Did they tell you that the frequency tolerance is guaranteed to be not more than .05
percent? The amplitude tolerance less than .01 decibel? Those pulses you heard were perfect. They just come
faster than the phone company. Those were high-precision op-amps. Op-amps are instrumentation amplifiers
designed for ultra-stable amplification, super-low distortion and accurate frequency response. Did they tell you it can
operate in temperatures from -55øC to +125øC?"
I admit that they did not tell me all that.
"I built it myself," the Captain goes on. "If you were to go out and buy the components from an industrial wholesaler it
would cost you at least $1500. I once worked for a semiconductor company and all this didn't cost me a cent. Do you
know what I mean? Did they tell you about how I put a call completely around the world? I'll tell you how I did it. I MFed
Tokyo inward, who connected me to India, India connected me to Greece, Greece connected me to Pretoria,
South Africa, South Africa connected me to South America, I went from South America to London, I had a London
operator connect me to a New York operator, I had New York connect me to a California operator who rang the
phone next to me. Needless to say I had to shout to hear myself. But the echo was far out. Fantastic. Delayed. It was
delayed twenty seconds, but I could hear myself talk to myself."
"You mean you were speaking into the mouthpiece of one phone sending your voice around the world into your ear
through a phone on the other side of your head?" I asked the Captain. I had a vision of something vaguely autoerotic
going on, in a complex electronic way.
"That's right," said the Captain. "I've also sent my voice around the world one way, going east on one phone, and
going west on the other, going through cable one way, satellite the other, coming back together at the same time,
ringing the two phones simultaneously and picking them up and whipping my voice both ways around the world back
to me. Wow. That was a mind blower." "You mean you sit there with both phones on your ear and talk to yourself
around the world," I said incredulously.
"Yeah. Um hum. That's what I do. I connect the phone together and sit there and talk."
"What do you say? What do you say to yourself when you're connected?"
"Oh, you know. Hello test one two three," he says in a low-pitched voice.
"Hello test one two three," he replied to himself in a high-pitched voice.
"Hello test one two three," he repeats again, low-pitched.
"Hello test one two three," he replies, high-pitched.
"I sometimes do this: Hello Hello Hello Hello, Hello, hello," he trails off and breaks into laughter.
Why Captain Crunch Hardly Ever Taps Phones Anymore
Using internal phone-company codes, phone phreaks have learned a simple method for tapping phones. Phonecompany
operators have in front of them a board that holds verification jacks. It allows them to plug into
conversations in case of emergency, to listen in to a line to determine if the line is busy or the circuits are busy.
Phone phreaks have learned to beep out the codes which lead them to a verification operator, tell the verification
operator they are switchmen from some other area code testing out verification trunks. Once the operator hooks
them into the verification trunk, they disappear into the board for all practical purposes, slip unnoticed into any one of
the 10,000 to 100,000 numbers in that central office without the verification operator knowing what they're doing, and
of course without the two parties to the connection knowing there is a phantom listener present on their line.
Toward the end of my hour-long first conversation with him, I asked the Captain if he ever tapped phones.
"Oh no. I don't do that. I don't think it's right," he told me firmly. "I have the power to do it but I don't... Well one time,
just one time, I have to admit that I did. There was this girl, Linda, and I wanted to find out... you know. I tried to call
her up for a date. I had a date with her the last weekend and I thought she liked me. I called her up, man, and her line
was busy, and I kept calling and it was still busy. Well, I had just learned about this system of jumping into lines and I
said to myself, 'Hmmm. Why not just see if it works. It'll surprise her if all of a sudden I should pop up on her line. It'll
impress her, if anything.' So I went ahead and did it. I M-Fed into the line. My M-F-er is powerful enough when
patched directly into the mouthpiece to trigger a verification trunk without using an operator the way the other phone
phreaks have to.
"I slipped into the line and there she was talking to another boyfriend. Making sweet talk to him. I didn't make a sound
because I was so disgusted. So I waited there for her to hang up, listening to her making sweet talk to the other guy.
You know. So as soon as she hung up I instantly M-F-ed her up and all I said was, 'Linda, we're through.' And I hung
up. And it blew her head off. She couldn't figure out what the hell happened.
"But that was the only time. I did it thinking I would surprise her, impress her. Those were all my intentions were, and
well, it really kind of hurt me pretty badly, and... and ever since then I don't go into verification trunks."
Moments later my first conversation with the Captain comes to a close.
"Listen," he says, his spirits somewhat cheered, "listen. What you are going to hear when I hang up is the sound of
tandems unstacking. Layer after layer of tandems unstacking until there's nothing left of the stack, until it melts away
into nothing. Cheep, cheep, cheep, cheep," he concludes, his voice descending to a whisper with each cheep.
He hangs up. The phone suddenly goes into four spasms: kachink cheep. Kachink cheep kachink cheep kachink
cheep, and the complex connection has wiped itself out like the Cheshire cat's smile.
The MF Boogie Blues
The next number I choose from the select list of phone-phreak alumni, prepared for me by the blue-box inventor, is a
Memphis number. It is the number of Joe Engressia, the first and still perhaps the most accomplished blind phone
phreak.
Three years ago Engressia was a nine-day wonder in newspapers and magazines all over America because he had
been discovered whistling free long-distance connections for fellow students at the University of South Florida.
Engressia was born with perfect pitch: he could whistle phone tones better than the phone-company's equipment.
Engressia might have gone on whistling in the dark for a few friends for the rest of his life if the phone company
hadn't decided to expose him. He was warned, disciplined by the college, and the whole case became public. In the
months following media reports of his talent, Engressia began receiving strange calls. There were calls from a group
of kids in Los Angeles who could do some very strange things with the quirky General Telephone and Electronics
circuitry in LA suburbs. There were calls from a group of mostly blind kids in ----, California, who had been doing
some interesting experiments with Cap'n Crunch whistles and test loops. There was a group in Seattle, a group in
Cambridge, Massachusetts, a few from New York, a few scattered across the country. Some of them had already
equipped themselves with cassette and electronic M-F devices. For some of these groups, it was the first time they
knew of the others.
The exposure of Engressia was the catalyst that linked the separate phone-phreak centers together. They all called
Engressia. They talked to him about what he was doing and what they were doing. And then he told them -- the
scattered regional centers and lonely independent phone phreakers -- about each other, gave them each other's
numbers to call, and within a year the scattered phone-phreak centers had grown into a nationwide underground.
Joe Engressia is only twenty-two years old now, but along the phone-phreak network he is "the old man," accorded
by phone phreaks something of the reverence the phone company bestows on Alexander Graham Bell. He seldom
needs to make calls anymore. The phone phreaks all call him and let him know what new tricks, new codes, new
techniques they have learned. Every night he sits like a sightless spider in his little apartment receiving messages
from every tendril of his web. It is almost a point of pride with Joe that they call him.
But when I reached him in his Memphis apartment that night, Joe Engressia was lonely, jumpy and upset.
"God, I'm glad somebody called. I don't know why tonight of all nights I don't get any calls. This guy around here got
drunk again tonight and propositioned me again. I keep telling him we'll never see eye to eye on this subject, if you
know what I mean. I try to make light of it, you know, but he doesn't get it. I can head him out there getting drunker
and I don't know what he'll do next. It's just that I'm really all alone here, just moved to Memphis, it's the first time I'm
living on my own, and I'd hate for it to all collapse now. But I won't go to bed with him. I'm just not very interested in
sex and even if I can't see him I know he's ugly.
"Did you hear that? That's him banging a bottle against the wall outside. He's nice. Well forget about it. You're doing
a story on phone phreaks? Listen to this. It's the MF Boogie Blues.
Sure enough, a jumpy version of Muskrat Ramble boogies its way over the line, each note one of those long-distance
phone tones. The music stops. A huge roaring voice blasts the phone off my ear: "AND THE QUESTION IS..." roars
the voice, "CAN A BLIND PERSON HOOK UP AN AMPLIFIER ON HIS OWN?"
The roar ceases. A high-pitched operator-type voice replaces it. "This is Southern Braille Tel. & Tel. Have tone, will
phone."
This is succeeded by a quick series of M-F tones, a swift "kachink" and a deep reassuring voice: "If you need home
care, call the visiting-nurses association. First National time in Honolulu is 4:32 p.m."
Joe back in his Joe voice again: "Are we seeing eye to eye? 'Si, si,' said the blind Mexican. Ahem. Yes. Would you
like to know the weather in Tokyo?"
This swift manic sequence of phone-phreak vaudeville stunts and blind-boy jokes manages to keep Joe's mind off his
tormentor only as long as it lasts.
"The reason I'm in Memphis, the reason I have to depend on that homosexual guy, is that this is the first time I've
been able to live on my own and make phone trips on my own. I've been banned from all central offices around home
in Florida, they knew me too well, and at the University some of my fellow scholars were always harassing me
because I was on the dorm pay phone all the time and making fun of me because of my fat ass, which of course I do
have, it's my physical fatness program, but I don't like to hear it every day, and if I can't phone trip and I can't phone
phreak, I can't imagine what I'd do, I've been devoting three quarters of my life to it.
"I moved to Memphis because I wanted to be on my own as well as because it has a Number 5 crossbar switching
system and some interesting little independent phone-company districts nearby and so far they don't seem to know
who I am so I can go on phone tripping, and for me phone tripping is just as important as phone phreaking."
Phone tripping, Joe explains, begins with calling up a central-office switch room. He tells the switchman in a polite
earnest voice that he's a blind college student interested in telephones, and could he perhaps have a guided tour of
the switching station? Each step of the tour Joe likes to touch and feel relays, caress switching circuits, switchboards,
crossbar arrangements.
So when Joe Engressia phone phreaks he feels his way through the circuitry of the country garden of forking paths,
he feels switches shift, relays shunt, crossbars swivel, tandems engage and disengage even as he hears -- with
perfect pitch -- his M-F pulses make the entire Bell system dance to his tune.
Just one month ago Joe took all his savings out of his bank and left home, over the emotional protests of his mother.
"I ran away from home almost," he likes to say. Joe found a small apartment house on Union Avenue and began
making phone trips. He'd take a bus a hundred miles south in Mississippi to see some old-fashioned Bell equipment
still in use in several states, which had been puzzling. He'd take a bus three hundred miles to Charlotte, North
Carolina, to look at some brand-new experimental equipment. He hired a taxi to drive him twelve miles to a suburb to
tour the office of a small phone company with some interesting idiosyncrasies in its routing system. He was having
the time of his life, he said, the most freedom and pleasure he had known.
In that month he had done very little long-distance phone phreaking from his own phone. He had begun to apply for
a job with the phone company, he told me, and he wanted to stay away from anything illegal.
"Any kind of job will do, anything as menial as the most lowly operator. That's probably all they'd give me because I'm
blind. Even though I probably know more than most switchmen. But that's okay. I want to work for Ma Bell. I don't
hate Ma Bell the way Gilbertson and some phone phreaks do. I don't want to screw Ma Bell. With me it's the pleasure
of pure knowledge. There's something beautiful about the system when you know it intimately the way I do. But I
don't know how much they know about me here. I have a very intuitive feel for the condition of the line I'm on, and I
think they're monitoring me off and on lately, but I haven't been doing much illegal. I have to make a few calls to
switchmen once in a while which aren't strictly legal, and once I took an acid trip and was having these auditory
hallucinations as if I were trapped and these planes were dive-bombing me, and all of sudden I had to phone phreak
out of there. For some reason I had to call Kansas City, but that's all."
A Warning Is Delivered
At this point -- one o'clock in my time zone -- a loud knock on my motel-room door interrupts our conversation.
Outside the door I find a uniformed security guard who informs me that there has been an "emergency phone call" for
me while I have been on the line and that the front desk has sent him up to let me know.
Two seconds after I say good-bye to Joe and hang up, the phone rings.
"Who were you talking to?" the agitated voice demands. The voice belongs to Captain Crunch. "I called because I
decided to warn you of something. I decided to warn you to be careful. I don't want this information you get to get to
the radical underground. I don't want it to get into the wrong hands. What would you say if I told you it's possible for
three phone phreaks to saturate the phone system of the nation. Saturate it. Busy it out. All of it. I know how to do
this. I'm not gonna tell. A friend of mine has already saturated the trunks between Seattle and New York. He did it
with a computerized M-F-er hitched into a special Manitoba exchange. But there are other, easier ways to do it."
Just three people? I ask. How is that possible?
"Have you ever heard of the long-lines guard frequency? Do you know about stacking tandems with 17 and 2600?
Well, I'd advise you to find out about it. I'm not gonna tell you. But whatever you do, don't let this get into the hands of
the radical underground."
(Later Gilbertson, the inventor, confessed that while he had always been skeptical about the Captain's claim of the
sabotage potential of trunk-tying phone phreaks, he had recently heard certain demonstrations which convinced him
the Captain was not speaking idly. "I think it might take more than three people, depending on how many machines
like Captain Crunch's were available. But even though the Captain sounds a little weird, he generally turns out to
know what he's talking about.")
"You know," Captain Crunch continues in his admonitory tone, "you know the younger phone phreaks call Moscow all
the time. Suppose everybody were to call Moscow. I'm no right-winger. But I value my life. I don't want the Commies
coming over and dropping a bomb on my head. That's why I say you've got to be careful about who gets this
information."
The Captain suddenly shifts into a diatribe against those phone phreaks who don't like the phone company.
"They don't understand, but Ma Bell knows everything they do. Ma Bell knows. Listen, is this line hot? I just heard
someone tap in. I'm not paranoid, but I can detect things like that. Well, even if it is, they know that I know that they
know that I have a bulk eraser. I'm very clean." The Captain pauses, evidently torn between wanting to prove to the
phone-company monitors that he does nothing illegal, and the desire to impress Ma Bell with his prowess. "Ma Bell
knows how good I am. And I am quite good. I can detect reversals, tandem switching, everything that goes on a line.
I have relative pitch now. Do you know what that means? My ears are a $20,000 piece of equipment. With my ears I
can detect things they can't hear with their equipment. I've had employment problems. I've lost jobs. But I want to
show Ma Bell how good I am. I don't want to screw her, I want to work for her. I want to do good for her. I want to help
her get rid of her flaws and become perfect. That's my number-one goal in life now." The Captain concludes his
warnings and tells me he has to be going. "I've got a little action lined up for tonight," he explains and hangs up.
Before I hang up for the night, I call Joe Engressia back. He reports that his tormentor has finally gone to sleep --
"He's not blind drunk, that's the way I get, ahem, yes; but you might say he's in a drunken stupor." I make a date to
visit Joe in Memphis in two days.
A Phone Phreak Call Takes Care of Business
The next morning I attend a gathering of four phone phreaks in ----- (a California suburb). The gathering takes place
in a comfortable split-level home in an upper-middle-class subdivision. Heaped on the kitchen table are the portable
cassette recorders, M-F cassettes, phone patches, and line ties of the four phone phreaks present. On the kitchen
counter next to the telephone is a shoe-box-size blue box with thirteen large toggle switches for the tones. The
parents of the host phone phreak, Ralph, who is blind, stay in the living room with their sighted children. They are not
sure exactly what Ralph and his friends do with the phone or if it's strictly legal, but he is blind and they are pleased
he has a hobby which keeps him busy.
The group has been working at reestablishing the historic "2111" conference, reopening some toll-free loops, and
trying to discover the dimensions of what seem to be new initiatives against phone phreaks by phone-company
security agents.
It is not long before I get a chance to see, to hear, Randy at work. Randy is known among the phone phreaks as
perhaps the finest con man in the game. Randy is blind. He is pale, soft and pear-shaped, he wears baggy pants and
a wrinkly nylon white sport shirt, pushes his head forward from hunched shoulders somewhat like a turtle inching out
of its shell. His eyes wander, crossing and recrossing, and his forehead is somewhat pimply. He is only sixteen years
old.
But when Randy starts speaking into a telephone mouthpiece his voice becomes so stunningly authoritative it is
necessary to look again to convince yourself it comes from a chubby adolescent Randy. Imagine the voice of a crack
oil-rig foreman, a tough, sharp, weather-beaten Marlboro man of forty. Imagine the voice of a brilliant performancefund
gunslinger explaining how he beats the Dow Jones by thirty percent. Then imagine a voice that could make
those two sound like Stepin Fetchit. That is sixteen-year-old Randy's voice.
He is speaking to a switchman in Detroit. The phone company in Detroit had closed up two toll-free loop pairs for no
apparent reason, although heavy use by phone phreaks all over the country may have been detected. Randy is
telling the switchman how to open up the loop and make it free again:
"How are you, buddy. Yeah. I'm on the board in here in Tulsa, Oklahoma, and we've been trying to run some tests on
your loop-arounds and we find'em busied out on both sides.... Yeah, we've been getting a 'BY' on them, what d'ya
say, can you drop cards on 'em? Do you have 08 on your number group? Oh that's okay, we've had this trouble
before, we may have to go after the circuit. Here lemme give 'em to you: your frame is 05, vertical group 03,
horizontal 5, vertical file 3. Yeah, we'll hang on here.... Okay, found it? Good. Right, yeah, we'd like to clear that busy
out. Right. All you have to do is look for your key on the mounting plate, it's in your miscellaneous trunk frame. Okay?
Right. Now pull your key from NOR over the LCT. Yeah. I don't know why that happened, but we've been having
trouble with that one. Okay. Thanks a lot fella. Be seein' ya."
Randy hangs up, reports that the switchman was a little inexperienced with the loop-around circuits on the
miscellaneous trunk frame, but that the loop has been returned to its free-call status.
Delighted, phone phreak Ed returns the pair of numbers to the active-status column in his directory. Ed is a superb
and painstaking researcher. With almost Talmudic thoroughness he will trace tendrils of hints through soft-wired
mazes of intervening phone-company circuitry back through complex linkages of switching relays to find the location
and identity of just one toll-free loop. He spends hours and hours, every day, doing this sort of thing. He has
somehow compiled a directory of eight hundred "Band-six in-WATS numbers" located in over forty states. Band-six
in-WATS numbers are the big 800 numbers -- the ones that can be dialed into free from anywhere in the country.
Ed the researcher, a nineteen-year-old engineering student, is also a superb technician. He put together his own
working blue box from scratch at age seventeen. (He is sighted.) This evening after distributing the latest issue of his
in-WATS directory (which has been typed into Braille for the blind phone phreaks), he announces he has made a
major new breakthrough:
"I finally tested it and it works, perfectly. I've got this switching matrix which converts any touch-tone phone into an MF-
er."
The tones you hear in touch-tone phones are not the M-F tones that operate the long-distance switching system.
Phone phreaks believe AT&T. had deliberately equipped touch tones with a different set of frequencies to avoid
putting the six master M-F tones in the hands of every touch-tone owner. Ed's complex switching matrix puts the six
master tones, in effect put a blue box, in the hands of every touch-tone owner.
Ed shows me pages of schematics, specifications and parts lists. "It's not easy to build, but everything here is in the
Heathkit catalog."
Ed asks Ralph what progress he has made in his attempts to reestablish a long-term open conference line for phone
phreaks. The last big conference -- the historic "2111" conference -- had been arranged through an unused Telex
test-board trunk somewhere in the innards of a 4A switching machine in Vancouver, Canada. For months phone
phreaks could M-F their way into Vancouver, beep out 604 (the Vancouver area code) and then beep out 2111 (the
internal phone-company code for Telex testing), and find themselves at any time, day or night, on an open wire
talking with an array of phone phreaks from coast to coast, operators from Bermuda, Tokyo and London who are
phone-phreak sympathizers, and miscellaneous guests and technical experts. The conference was a massive
exchange of information. Phone phreaks picked each other's brains clean, then developed new ways to pick the
phone company's brains clean. Ralph gave M F Boogies concerts with his home-entertainment-type electric organ,
Captain Crunch demonstrated his round-the-world prowess with his notorious computerized unit and dropped leering
hints of the "action" he was getting with his girl friends. (The Captain lives out or pretends to live out several kinds of
fantasies to the gossipy delight of the blind phone phreaks who urge him on to further triumphs on behalf of all of
them.) The somewhat rowdy Northwest phone-phreak crowd let their bitter internal feud spill over into the peaceable
conference line, escalating shortly into guerrilla warfare; Carl the East Coast international tone relations expert
demonstrated newly opened direct M-F routes to central offices on the island of Bahrein in the Persian Gulf,
introduced a new phone-phreak friend of his in Pretoria, and explained the technical operation of the new Oakland-to
Vietnam linkages. (Many phone phreaks pick up spending money by M-F-ing calls from relatives to Vietnam GIs
charging $5 for a whole hour of trans-Pacific conversation.)
Day and night the conference line was never dead. Blind phone phreaks all over the country, lonely and isolated in
homes filled with active sighted brothers and sisters, or trapped with slow and unimaginative blind kids in straitjacket
schools for the blind, knew that no matter how late it got they could dial up the conference and find instant electronic
communion with two or three other blind kids awake over on the other side of America. Talking together on a phone
hookup, the blind phone phreaks say, is not much different from being there together. Physically, there was nothing
more than a two-inch-square wafer of titanium inside a vast machine on Vancouver Island. For the blind kids >there<
meant an exhilarating feeling of being in touch, through a kind of skill and magic which was peculiarly their own.
Last April 1, however, the long Vancouver Conference was shut off. The phone phreaks knew it was coming.
Vancouver was in the process of converting from a step-by-step system to a 4A machine and the 2111 Telex circuit
was to be wiped out in the process. The phone phreaks learned the actual day on which the conference would be
erased about a week ahead of time over the phone company's internal-news-and-shop-talk recording.
For the next frantic seven days every phone phreak in America was on and off the 2111 conference twenty-four hours
a day. Phone phreaks who were just learning the game or didn't have M-F capability were boosted up to the
conference by more experienced phreaks so they could get a glimpse of what it was like before it disappeared. Top
phone phreaks searched distant area codes for new conference possibilities without success. Finally in the early
morning of April 1, the end came.
"I could feel it coming a couple hours before midnight," Ralph remembers. "You could feel something going on in the
lines. Some static began showing up, then some whistling wheezing sound. Then there were breaks. Some people
got cut off and called right back in, but after a while some people were finding they were cut off and couldn't get back
in at all. It was terrible. I lost it about one a.m., but managed to slip in again and stay on until the thing died... I think it
was about four in the morning. There were four of us still hanging on when the conference disappeared into nowhere
for good. We all tried to M-F up to it again of course, but we got silent termination. There was nothing there."
The Legendary Mark Bernay Turns Out To Be "The Midnight Skulker"
Mark Bernay. I had come across that name before. It was on Gilbertson's select list of phone phreaks. The California
phone phreaks had spoken of a mysterious Mark Bernay as perhaps the first and oldest phone phreak on the West
Coast. And in fact almost every phone phreak in the West can trace his origins either directly to Mark Bernay or to a
disciple of Mark Bernay.
It seems that five years ago this Mark Bernay (a pseudonym he chose for himself) began traveling up and down the
West Coast pasting tiny stickers in phone books all along his way. The stickers read something like "Want to hear an
interesting tape recording? Call these numbers." The numbers that followed were toll-free loop-around pairs. When
one of the curious called one of the numbers he would hear a tape recording pre-hooked into the loop by Bernay
which explained the use of loop-around pairs, gave the numbers of several more, and ended by telling the caller, "At
six o'clock tonight this recording will stop and you and your friends can try it out. Have fun."
"I was disappointed by the response at first," Bernay told me, when I finally reached him at one of his many numbers
and he had dispensed with the usual "I never do anything illegal" formalities which experienced phone phreaks open
most conversations.
"I went all over the coast with these stickers not only on pay phones, but I'd throw them in front of high schools in the
middle of the night, I'd leave them unobtrusively in candy stores, scatter them on main streets of small towns. At first
hardly anyone bothered to try it out. I would listen in for hours and hours after six o'clock and no one came on. I
couldn't figure out why people wouldn't be interested. Finally these two girls in Oregon tried it out and told all their
friends and suddenly it began to spread."
Before his Johny Appleseed trip Bernay had already gathered a sizable group of early pre-blue-box phone phreaks
together on loop-arounds in Los Angeles. Bernay does not claim credit for the original discovery of the loop-around
numbers. He attributes the discovery to an eighteen-year-old reform school kid in Long Beach whose name he
forgets and who, he says, "just disappeared one day." When Bernay himself discovered loop-arounds independently,
from clues in his readings in old issues of the Automatic Electric Technical Journal, he found dozens of the reformschool
kid's friends already using them. However, it was one of Bernay's disciples in Seattle that introduced phone
phreaking to blind kids. The Seattle kid who learned about loops through Bernay's recording told a blind friend, the
blind kid taught the secret to his friends at a winter camp for blind kids in Los Angeles. When the camp session was
over these kids took the secret back to towns all over the West. This is how the original blind kids became phone
phreaks. For them, for most phone phreaks in general, it was the discovery of the possibilities of loop-arounds which
led them on to far more serious and sophisticated phone-phreak methods, and which gave them a medium for
sharing their discoveries.
A year later a blind kid who moved back east brought the technique to a blind kids' summer camp in Vermont, which
spread it along the East Coast. All from a Mark Bernay sticker.
Bernay, who is nearly thirty years old now, got his start when he was fifteen and his family moved into an L.A. suburb
serviced by General Telephone and Electronics equipment. He became fascinated with the differences between Bell
and G.T.&E. equipment. He learned he could make interesting things happen by carefully timed clicks with the
disengage button. He learned to interpret subtle differences in the array of clicks, whirrs and kachinks he could hear
on his lines. He learned he could shift himself around the switching relays of the L.A. area code in a not-toopredictable
fashion by interspersing his own hook-switch clicks with the clicks within the line. (Independent phone
companies -- there are nineteen hundred of them still left, most of them tiny island principalities in Ma Bell's vast
empire -- have always been favorites with phone phreaks, first as learning tools, then as Archimedes platforms from
which to manipulate the huge Bell system. A phone phreak in Bell territory will often M-F himself into an
independent's switching system, with switching idiosyncrasies which can give him marvelous leverage over the Bell
System.
"I have a real affection for Automatic Electric Equipment," Bernay told me. "There are a lot of things you can play
with. Things break down in interesting ways."
Shortly after Bernay graduated from college (with a double major in chemistry and philosophy), he graduated from
phreaking around with G.T.&E. to the Bell System itself, and made his legendary sticker-pasting journey north along
the coast, settling finally in Northwest Pacific Bell territory. He discovered that if Bell does not break down as
interestingly as G.T.&E., it nevertheless offers a lot of "things to play with."
Bernay learned to play with blue boxes. He established his own personal switchboard and phone-phreak research
laboratory complex. He continued his phone-phreak evangelism with ongoing sticker campaigns. He set up two
recording numbers, one with instructions for beginning phone phreaks, the other with latest news and technical
developments (along with some advanced instruction) gathered from sources all over the country.
These days, Bernay told me, he had gone beyond phone-phreaking itself. "Lately I've been enjoying playing with
computers more than playing with phones. My personal thing in computers is just like with phones, I guess -- the kick
is in finding out how to beat the system, how to get at things I'm not supposed to know about, how to do things with
the system that I'm not supposed to be able to do."
As a matter of fact, Bernay told me, he had just been fired from his computer-programming job for doing things he
was not supposed to be able to do. He had been working with a huge time-sharing computer owned by a large
corporation but shared by many others. Access to the computer was limited to those programmers and corporations
that had been assigned certain passwords. And each password restricted its user to access to only the one section of
the computer cordoned off from its own information storager. The password system prevented companies and
individuals from stealing each other's information.
"I figured out how to write a program that would let me read everyone else's password," Bernay reports. "I began
playing around with passwords. I began letting the people who used the computer know, in subtle ways, that I knew
their passwords. I began dropping notes to the computer supervisors with hints that I knew what I know. I signed
them 'The Midnight Skulker.' I kept getting cleverer and cleverer with my messages and devising ways of showing
them what I could do. I'm sure they couldn't imagine I could do the things I was showing them. But they never
responded to me. Every once in a while they'd change the passwords, but I found out how to discover what the new
ones were, and I let them know. But they never responded directly to the Midnight Skulker. I even finally designed a
program which they could use to prevent my program from finding out what it did. In effect I told them how to wipe me
out, The Midnight Skulker. It was a very clever program. I started leaving clues about myself. I wanted them to try and
use it and then try to come up with something to get around that and reappear again. But they wouldn't play. I wanted
to get caught. I mean I didn't want to get caught personally, but I wanted them to notice me and admit that they
noticed me. I wanted them to attempt to respond, maybe in some interesting way." Finally the computer managers
became concerned enough about the threat of information-stealing to respond. However, instead of using The
Midnight Skulker's own elegant self-destruct program, they called in their security personnel, interrogated everyone,
found an informer to identify Bernay as The Midnight Skulker, and fired him.
"At first the security people advised the company to hire me full-time to search out other flaws and discover other
computer freaks. I might have liked that. But I probably would have turned into a double double agent rather than the
double agent they wanted. I might have resurrected The Midnight Skulker and tried to catch myself. Who knows?
Anyway, the higher-ups turned the whole idea down."
You Can Tap the F.B.I.'s Crime Control Computer in the Comfort of Your Own Home, Perhaps.
Computer freaking may be the wave of the future. It suits the phone-phreak sensibility perfectly. Gilbertson, the bluebox
inventor and a lifelong phone phreak, has also gone on from phone-phreaking to computer-freaking. Before he
got into the blue-box business Gilbertson, who is a highly skilled programmer, devised programs for international
currency arbitrage.
But he began playing with computers in earnest when he learned he could use his blue box in tandem with the
computer terminal installed in his apartment by the instrumentation firm he worked for. The print-out terminal and
keyboard was equipped with acoustical coupling, so that by coupling his little ivory Princess phone to the terminal
and then coupling his blue box on that, he could M-F his way into other computers with complete anonymity, and
without charge; program and re-program them at will; feed them false or misleading information; tap and steal from
them. He explained to me that he taps computers by busying out all the lines, then going into a verification trunk,
listening into the passwords and instructions one of the time sharers uses, and them M-F-ing in and imitating them.
He believes it would not be impossible to creep into the F.B.I's crime control computer through a local police
computer terminal and phreak around with the F.B.I.'s memory banks. He claims he has succeeded in reprogramming
a certain huge institutional computer in such a way that it has cordoned off an entire section of its
circuitry for his personal use, and at the same time conceals that arrangement from anyone else's notice. I have been
unable to verify this claim.
Like Captain Crunch, like Alexander Graham Bell (pseudonym of a disgruntled-looking East Coast engineer who
claims to have invented the black box and now sells black and blue boxes to gamblers and radical heavies), like most
phone phreaks, Gilbertson began his career trying to rip off pay phones as a teenager. Figure them out, then rip
them off. Getting his dime back from the pay phone is the phone phreak's first thrilling rite of passage. After learning
the usual eighteen different ways of getting his dime back, Gilbertson learned how to make master keys to coinphone
cash boxes, and get everyone else's dimes back. He stole some phone-company equipment and put together
his own home switchboard with it. He learned to make a simple "bread-box" device, of the kind used by bookies in
the Thirties (bookie gives a number to his betting clients; the phone with that number is installed in some widow
lady's apartment, but is rigged to ring in the bookie's shop across town, cops trace big betting number and find
nothing but the widow).
Not long after that afternoon in 1968 when, deep in the stacks of an engineering library, he came across a technical
journal with the phone tone frequencies and rushed off to make his first blue box, not long after that Gilbertson
abandoned a very promising career in physical chemistry and began selling blue boxes for $1,500 apiece.
"I had to leave physical chemistry. I just ran out of interesting things to learn," he told me one evening. We had been
talking in the apartment of the man who served as the link between Gilbertson and the syndicate in arranging the big
$300,000 blue-box deal which fell through because of legal trouble. There has been some smoking.
"No more interesting things to learn," he continues. "Physical chemistry turns out to be a sick subject when you take it
to its highest level. I don't know. I don't think I could explain to you how it's sick. You have to be there. But you get, I
don't know, a false feeling of omnipotence. I suppose it's like phone-phreaking that way. This huge thing is there. This
whole system. And there are holes in it and you slip into them like Alice and you're pretending you're doing something
you're actually not, or at least it's no longer you that's doing what you thought you were doing. It's all Lewis Carroll.
Physical chemistry and phone-phreaking. That's why you have these phone-phreak pseudonyms like The Cheshire
Cat, the Red King, and The Snark. But there's something about phone-phreaking that you don't find in physical
chemistry." He looks up at me:
"Did you ever steal anything?"
"Well yes, I..."
"Then you know! You know the rush you get. It's not just knowledge, like physical chemistry. It's forbidden
knowledge. You know. You can learn about anything under the sun and be bored to death with it. But the idea that it's
illegal. Look: you can be small and mobile and smart and you're ripping off somebody large and powerful and very
dangerous."
People like Gilbertson and Alexander Graham Bell are always talking about ripping off the phone company and
screwing Ma Bell. But if they were shown a single button and told that by pushing it they could turn the entire circuitry
of A.T.&T. into molten puddles, they probably wouldn't push it. The disgruntled-inventor phone phreak needs the
phone system the way the lapsed Catholic needs the Church, the way Satan needs a God, the way The Midnight
Skulker needed, more than anything else, response.
Later that evening Gilbertson finished telling me how delighted he was at the flood of blue boxes spreading
throughout the country, how delighted he was to know that "this time they're really screwed." He suddenly shifted
gears.
"Of course. I do have this love/hate thing about Ma Bell. In a way I almost like the phone company. I guess I'd be very
sad if they were to disintegrate. In a way it's just that after having been so good they turn out to have these things
wrong with them. It's those flaws that allow me to get in and mess with them, but I don't know. There's something
about it that gets to you and makes you want to get to it, you know."
I ask him what happens when he runs out of interesting, forbidden things to learn about the phone system.
"I don't know, maybe I'd go to work for them for a while."
"In security even?"
"I'd do it, sure. I just as soon play -- I'd just as soon work on either side."
"Even figuring out how to trap phone phreaks? I said, recalling Mark Bernay's game."
"Yes, that might be interesting. Yes, I could figure out how to outwit the phone phreaks. Of course if I got too good at
it, it might become boring again. Then I'd have to hope the phone phreaks got much better and outsmarted me for a
while. That would move the quality of the game up one level. I might even have to help them out, you know, 'Well,
kids, I wouldn't want this to get around but did you ever think of -- ?' I could keep it going at higher and higher levels
forever."
The dealer speaks up for the first time. He has been staring at the soft blinking patterns of light and colors on the
translucent tiled wall facing him. (Actually there are no patterns: the color and illumination of every tile is determined
by a computerized random-number generator designed by Gilbertson which insures that there can be no meaning to
any sequence of events in the tiles.)
"Those are nice games you're talking about," says the dealer to his friend. "But I wouldn't mind seeing them screwed.
A telephone isn't private anymore. You can't say anything you really want to say on a telephone or you have to go
through that paranoid bullshit. 'Is it cool to talk on the phone?' I mean, even if it is cool, if you have to ask 'Is it cool,'
then it isn't cool. You know. 'Is it cool,' then it isn't cool. You know. Like those blind kids, people are going to start
putting together their own private telephone companies if they want to really talk. And you know what else. You don't
hear silences on the phone anymore. They've got this time-sharing thing on long-distance lines where you make a
pause and they snip out that piece of time and use it to carry part of somebody else's conversation.Instead of a
pause, where somebody's maybe breathing or sighing, you get this blank hole and you only start hearing again when
someone says a word and even the beginning of the word is clipped off. Silences don't count -- you're paying for
them, but they take them away from you. It's not cool to talk and you can't hear someone when they don't talk. What
the hell good is the phone? I wouldn't mind seeing them totally screwed."
The Big Memphis Bust
Joe Engressia never wanted to screw Ma Bell. His dream had always been to work for her.
The day I visited Joe in his small apartment on Union Avenue in Memphis, he was upset about another setback in his
application for a telephone job.
"They're stalling on it. I got a letter today telling me they'd have to postpone the interview I requested again. My
landlord read it for me. They gave me some runaround about wanting papers on my rehabilitation status but I think
there's something else going on."
When I switched on the 40-watt bulb in Joe's room -- he sometimes forgets when he has guests -- it looked as if
there was enough telephone hardware to start a small phone company of his own.
There is one phone on top of his desk, one phone sitting in an open drawer beneath the desk top. Next to the desktop
phone is a cigar-box-size M-F device with big toggle switches, and next to that is some kind of switching and
coupling device with jacks and alligator plugs hanging loose. Next to that is a Braille typewriter. On the floor next to
the desk, lying upside down like a dead tortoise, is the half-gutted body of an old black standard phone. Across the
room on a torn and dusty couch are two more phones, one of them a touch-tone model; two tape recorders; a heap
of phone patches and cassettes, and a life-size toy telephone.
Our conversation is interrupted every ten minutes by phone phreaks from all over the country ringing Joe on just
about every piece of equipment but the toy phone and the Braille typewriter. One fourteen-year-old blind kid from
Connecticut calls up and tells Joe he's got a girl friend. He wants to talk to Joe about girl friends. Joe says they'll talk
later in the evening when they can be alone on the line. Joe draws a deep breath, whistles him off the air with an
earsplitting 2600-cycle whistle. Joe is pleased to get the calls but he looked worried and preoccupied that evening,
his brow constantly furrowed over his dark wandering eyes. In addition to the phone-company stall, he has just
learned that his apartment house is due to be demolished in sixty days for urban renewal. For all its shabbiness, the
Union Avenue apartment house has been Joe's first home-of-his-own and he's worried that he may not find another
before this one is demolished.
But what really bothers Joe is that switchmen haven't been listening to him. "I've been doing some checking on 800
numbers lately, and I've discovered that certain 800 numbers in New Hampshire couldn't be reached from Missouri
and Kansas. Now it may sound like a small thing, but I don't like to see sloppy work; it makes me feel bad about the
lines. So I've been calling up switching offices and reporting it, but they haven't corrected it. I called them up for the
third time today and instead of checking they just got mad. Well, that gets me mad. I mean, I do try to help them.
There's something about them I can't understand -- you want to help them and they just try to say you're defrauding
them."
It is Sunday evening and Joe invites me to join him for dinner at a Holiday Inn. Frequently on Sunday evening Joe
takes some of his welfare money, calls a cab, and treats himself to a steak dinner at one of Memphis' thirteen Holiday
Inns. (Memphis is the headquarters of Holiday Inn. Holiday Inns have been a favorite for Joe ever since he made his
first solo phone trip to a Bell switching office in Jacksonville, Florida, and stayed in the Holiday Inn there. He likes to
stay at Holiday Inns, he explains, because they represent freedom to him and because the rooms are arranged the
same all over the country so he knows that any Holiday Inn room is familiar territory to him. Just like any telephone.)
Over steaks in the Pinnacle Restaurant of the Holiday Inn Medical Center on Madison Avenue in Memphis, Joe tells
me the highlights of his life as a phone phreak.
At age seven, Joe learned his first phone trick. A mean baby-sitter, tired of listening to little Joe play with the phone
as he always did, constantly, put a lock on the phone dial. "I got so mad. When there's a phone sitting there and I
can't use it... so I started getting mad and banging the receiver up and down. I noticed I banged it once and it dialed
one. Well, then I tried banging it twice...." In a few minutes Joe learned how to dial by pressing the hook switch at the
right time. "I was so excited I remember going 'whoo whoo' and beat a box down on the floor."
At age eight Joe learned about whistling. "I was listening to some intercept non working-number recording in L.A.- I
was calling L.A. as far back as that, but I'd mainly dial non working numbers because there was no charge, and I'd
listen to these recordings all day. Well, I was whistling 'cause listening to these recordings can be boring after a while
even if they are from L.A., and all of a sudden, in the middle of whistling, the recording clicked off. I fiddled around
whistling some more, and the same thing happened. So I called up the switch room and said, 'I'm Joe. I'm eight years
old and I want to know why when I whistle this tune the line clicks off.' He tried to explain it to me, but it was a little too
technical at the time. I went on learning. That was a thing nobody was going to stop me from doing. The phones were
my life, and I was going to pay any price to keep on learning. I knew I could go to jail. But I had to do what I had to do
to keep on learning."
The phone is ringing when we walk back into Joe's apartment on Union Avenue. It is Captain Crunch. The Captain
has been following me around by phone, calling up everywhere I go with additional bits of advice and explanation for
me and whatever phone phreak I happen to be visiting. This time the Captain reports he is calling from what he
describes as "my hideaway high up in the Sierra Nevada." He pulses out lusty salvos of M-F and tells Joe he is about
to "go out and get a little action tonight. Do some phreaking of another kind, if you know what I mean." Joe chuckles.
The Captain then tells me to make sure I understand that what he told me about tying up the nation's phone lines
was true, but that he and the phone phreaks he knew never used the technique for sabotage. They only learned the
technique to help the phone company.
"We do a lot of troubleshooting for them. Like this New Hampshire/Missouri WATS-line flaw I've been screaming
about. We help them more than they know."
After we say good-bye to the Captain and Joe whistles him off the line, Joe tells me about a disturbing dream he had
the night before: "I had been caught and they were taking me to a prison. It was a long trip. They were taking me to a
prison a long long way away. And we stopped at a Holiday Inn and it was my last night ever using the phone and I
was crying and crying, and the lady at the Holiday Inn said, 'Gosh, honey, you should never be sad at a Holiday Inn.
You should always be happy here. Especially since it's your last night.' And that just made it worse and I was sobbing
so much I couldn't stand it."
Two weeks after I left Joe Engressia's apartment, phone-company security agents and Memphis police broke into it.
Armed with a warrant, which they left pinned to a wall, they confiscated every piece of equipment in the room,
including his toy telephone. Joe was placed under arrest and taken to the city jail where he was forced to spend the
night since he had no money and knew no one in Memphis to call.
It is not clear who told Joe what that night, but someone told him that the phone company had an open-and-shut
case against him because of revelations of illegal activity he had made to a phone-company undercover agent.
By morning Joe had become convinced that the reporter from Esquire, with whom he had spoken two weeks ago,
was the undercover agent. He probably had ugly thoughts about someone he couldn't see gaining his confidence,
listening to him talk about his personal obsessions and dreams, while planning all the while to lock him up.
"I really thought he was a reporter," Engressia told the Memphis Press-Seminar. "I told him everything...." Feeling
betrayed, Joe proceeded to confess everything to the press and police.
As it turns out, the phone company did use an undercover agent to trap Joe, although it was not the Esquire reporter.
Ironically, security agents were alerted and began to compile a case against Joe because of one of his acts of love
for the system: Joe had called an internal service department to report that he had located a group of defective longdistance
trunks, and to complain again about the New Hampshire/Missouri WATS problem. Joe always liked Ma
Bell's lines to be clean and responsive. A suspicious switchman reported Joe to the security agents who discovered
that Joe had never had a long-distance call charged to his name.
Then the security agents learned that Joe was planning one of his phone trips to a local switching office. The security
people planted one of their agents in the switching office. He posed as a student switchman and followed Joe around
on a tour. He was extremely friendly and helpful to Joe, leading him around the office by the arm. When the tour was
over he offered Joe a ride back to his apartment house. On the way he asked Joe -- one tech man to another -- about
"those blue boxers" he'd heard about. Joe talked about them freely, talked about his blue box freely, and about all the
other things he could do with the phones.
The next day the phone-company security agents slapped a monitoring tape on Joe's line, which eventually picked up
an illegal call. Then they applied for the search warrant and broke in.
In court Joe pleaded not guilty to possession of a blue box and theft of service. A sympathetic judge reduced the
charges to malicious mischief and found him guilty on that count, sentenced him to two thirty-day sentences to be
served concurrently and then suspended the sentence on condition that Joe promise never to play with phones
again. Joe promised, but the phone company refused to restore his service. For two weeks after the trial Joe could
not be reached except through the pay phone at his apartment house, and the landlord screened all calls for him.
Phone-phreak Carl managed to get through to Joe after the trial, and reported that Joe sounded crushed by the
whole affair.
"What I'm worried about," Carl told me, "is that Joe means it this time. The promise. That he'll never phone-phreak
again. That's what he told me, that he's given up phone-phreaking for good. I mean his entire life. He says he knows
they're going to be watching him so closely for the rest of his life he'll never be able to make a move without going
straight to jail. He sounded very broken up by the whole experience of being in jail. It was awful to hear him talk that
way. I don't know. I hope maybe he had to sound that way. Over the phone, you know."
He reports that the entire phone-phreak underground is up in arms over the phone company's treatment of Joe. "All
the while Joe had his hopes pinned on his application for a phone-company job, they were stringing him along getting
ready to bust him. That gets me mad. Joe spent most of his time helping them out. The bastards. They think they can
use him as an example. All of sudden they're harassing us on the coast. Agents are jumping up on our lines. They
just busted ------'s mute yesterday and ripped out his lines. But no matter what Joe does, I don't think we're going to
take this lying down."
Two weeks later my phone rings and about eight phone phreaks in succession say hello from about eight different
places in the country, among them Carl, Ed, and Captain Crunch. A nationwide phone-phreak conference line has
been reestablished through a switching machine in --------, with the cooperation of a disgruntled switchman.
"We have a special guest with us today," Carl tells me.
The next voice I hear is Joe's. He reports happily that he has just moved to a place called Millington, Tennessee,
fifteen miles outside of Memphis, where he has been hired as a telephone-set repairman by a small independent
phone company. Someday he hopes to be an equipment troubleshooter.
"It's the kind of job I dreamed about. They found out about me from the publicity surrounding the trial. Maybe Ma Bell
did me a favor busting me. I'll have telephones in my hands all day long."
"You know the expression, 'Don't get mad, get even'?" phone-phreak Carl asked me. "Well, I think they're going to be
very sorry about what they did to Joe and what they're trying to do to us."
151.The History of British Phreaking by Lex Luthor
Note: The British post office, is the US equivalent of Ma Bell. In Britain, phreaking goes back to the early fifties, when
the technique of 'toll a drop back' was discovered. Toll a was an exchange near St.Pauls which routed calls between
London and nearby non-London exchanges. The trick was to dial an unallocated number, and then depress the
receiver-rest for « second. This flashing initiated the 'clear forward' signal, leaving the caller with an open line into the
toll a exchange. They could then dial 018, which forwarded him to the trunk exchange at that time, the first long
distance exchange in Britain and follow it with the code for the distant exchange to which he would be connected at
no extra charge.
The signals needed to control the UK network today were published in the "Institution of Post Office Engineers
Journal" and reprinted in the Sunday times (15 Oct. 1972).
The signaling system they use: Signaling system No.3 uses pairs of frequencies selected from 6 tones separated by
120hz. With that info, the phreaks made "bleepers" or as they are called here in the US "blue box", but they do utilize
different MF tones then the US, thus, your US blue box that you smuggled into the UK will not work, unless you
change the frequencies.
In the early seventies, a simpler system based on different numbers of pulses with the same frequency (2280hz) was
used. For more info on that, try to get a hold of: Atkinson's "Telephony and Systems Technology".
In the early days of British phreaking, the Cambridge university Titan computer was used to record and circulate
numbers found by the exhaustive dialing of local networks. These numbers were used to create a chain of links from
local exchange to local exchange across the country, bypassing the trunk circuits. Because the internal routing
codes in the UK network are not the same as those dialed by the caller, the phreaks had to discover them by 'probe
and listen' techniques or more commonly known in the US -- scanning. What they did was put in likely signals and
listened to find out if they succeeded. The results of scanning were circulated to other phreaks. Discovering each
other took time at first, but eventually the phreaks became organized. The "tap" of Britain was called "undercurrents"
which enabled British phreaks to share the info on new numbers, equipment etc.
To understand what the British phreaks did, think of the phone network in three layers of lines: Local, trunk, and
international. In the UK, subscriber trunk dialing (std), is the mechanism which takes a call from the local lines and
(legitimately) elevates it to a trunk or international level. The UK phreaks figured that a call at trunk level can be
routed through any number of exchanges, provided that the right routing codes were found and used correctly. They
also had to discover how to get from local to trunk level either without being charged (which they did with a bleeper
box) or without using (std). Chaining has already been mentioned but it requires long strings of digits and speech
gets more and more faint as the chain grows, just like it does when you stack trunks back and forth across the US.
The way the security reps snagged the phreaks was to put a simple 'printermeter' or as we call it: A pen register on
the suspects line, which shows every digit dialed from the subscribers line.
The British prefer to get onto the trunks rather than chaining. One way was to discover where local calls use the
trunks between neighboring exchanges, start a call and stay on the trunk instead of returning to the local level on
reaching the distant switch. This again required exhaustive dialing and made more work for titan; it also revealed
'fiddles', which were inserted by post office engineers.
What fiddling means is that the engineers rewired the exchanges for their own benefit. The equipment is modified to
give access to a trunk without being charged, an operation which is pretty easy in step by step (SxS) electromechanical
exchanges, which were installed in Britain even in the 1970's (Note: I know of a back door into the
Canadian system on a 4A Co., so if you are on SxS or a 4A, try scanning 3 digit exchanges, i.e.: dial 999,998,997
etc. And listen for the beep-kerchink, if there are no 3 digit codes which allow direct access to a tandem in your local
exchange and bypasses the AMA so you won't be billed, not have to blast 2600 every time you wish to box a call.
A famous British 'fiddler' revealed in the early 1970's worked by dialing 173. The caller then added the trunk code of 1
and the subscribers local number. At that time, most engineering test services began with 17X, so the engineers
could hide their fiddles in the nest of service wires. When security reps started searching, the fiddles were concealed
by tones signaling: 'Number unobtainable' or 'Equipment engaged' which switched off after a delay. The necessary
relays are small and easily hidden.
There was another side to phreaking in the UK in the sixties. Before STD was widespread, many 'ordinary' people
were driven to.
Occasional phreaking from sheer frustration at the inefficient operator controlled trunk system. This came to a head
during a strike about 1961 when operators could not be reached. Nothing complicated was needed. Many operators
had been in the habit of repeating the codes as they dialed the requested numbers so people soon learnt the
numbers they called frequently. The only 'trick' was to know which exchanges could be dialed through to pass on the
trunk number. Callers also needed a pretty quiet place to do it, since timing relative to clicks was important. The most
famous trial of British phreaks was called the old Baily trial. Which started on Oct. 3rd, 1973. What the phreaks did
was dial a spare number at a local call rate, but involving a trunk to another exchange then they sent a 'clear forward'
to their local exchange, indicating to it that the call was finished; but the distant exchange doesn't realize because the
caller's phone is still off the hook. They now have an open line into the distant trunk exchange and sent to it a 'seize'
signal: '1' which puts him onto its outgoing lines now, if they know the codes, the world is open to them. All other
exchanges trust his local exchange to handle the billing; they just interpret the tones they hear. Meanwhile, the local
exchange collects only for a local call. The investigators discovered the phreaks holding a conference somewhere in
England surrounded by various phone equipment and bleeper boxes, also printouts listing 'secret' post office codes.
(They probably got them from trashing?) The judge said: "Some take to heroin, some take to telephones." for them
phone phreaking was not a crime, but a hobby to be shared with phellow enthusiasts and discussed with the post
office openly over dinner and by mail. Their approach and attitude to the worlds largest computer, the global
telephone system, was that of scientists conducting experiments or programmers and engineers testing programs
and systems. The judge appeared to agree, and even asked them for phreaking codes to use from his local
exchange!!!
152.Bad as Shit by The Jolly Roger
Recently, a telephone fanatic in the northwest made an interesting discovery. He was exploring the 804 area code
(Virginia) and found out that the 840 exchange did something strange.
In the vast majority of cases, in fact in all of the cases except one, he would get a recording as if the exchange didn't
exist. However, if he dialed 804-840 and four rather predictable numbers, he got a ring!
After one or two rings, somebody picked up. Being experienced at this kind of thing, he could tell that the call didn't
"supe", that is, no charges were being incurred for calling this number.
(Calls that get you to an error message, or a special operator, generally don't supervise.) A female voice, with a hint
of a Southern accent said, "Operator, can I help you?"
"Yes," he said, "What number have I reached?"
"What number did you dial, sir?"
He made up a number that was similar.
"I'm sorry that is not the number you reached." Click.
He was fascinated. What in the world was this? He knew he was going to call back, but before he did, he tried some
more experiments. He tried the 840 exchange in several other area codes. In some, it came up as a valid exchange.
In others, exactly the same thing happened -- the same last four digits, the same Southern belle. Oddly enough, he
later noticed, the areas worked in seemed to travel in a beeline from Washington DC to Pittsburgh, PA.
He called back from a payphone. "Operator, can I help you?"
"Yes, this is the phone company. I'm testing this line and we don't seem to have an identification on your circuit. What
office is this, please?"
"What number are you trying to reach?"
"I'm not trying to reach any number. I'm trying to identify this circuit."
"I'm sorry, I can't help you."
"Ma'am, if I don't get an ID on this line, I'll have to disconnect it. We show no record of it here."
"Hold on a moment, sir."
After about a minute, she came back. "Sir, I can have someone speak to you. Would you give me your number,
please?"
He had anticipated this and he had the payphone number ready. After he gave it, she said, "Mr. XXX will get right
back to you."
"Thanks." He hung up the phone. It rang. INSTANTLY! "Oh my God," he thought, "They weren't asking for my
number -- they were confirming it!"
"Hello," he said, trying to sound authoritative.
"This is Mr. XXX. Did you just make an inquiry to my office concerning a phone number?"
"Yes. I need an identi--"
"What you need is advice. Don't ever call that number again. Forget you ever knew it."
At this point our friend got so nervous he just hung up. He expected to hear the phone ring again but it didn't.
Over the next few days he racked his brains trying to figure out what the number was. He knew it was something big
-- that was pretty certain at this point. It was so big that the number was programmed into every central office in the
country. He knew this because if he tried to dial any other number in that exchange, he'd get a local error message
from his CO, as if the exchange didn't exist.
It finally came to him. He had an uncle who worked in a federal agency. He had a feeling that this was government
related and if it was, his uncle could probably find out what it was. He asked the next day and his uncle promised to
look into the matter.
The next time he saw his uncle, he noticed a big change in his manner. He was trembling. "Where did you get that
number?!" he shouted. "Do you know I almost got fired for asking about it?!? They kept wanting to know where I got
it."
Our friend couldn't contain his excitement. "What is it?" he pleaded. "What's the number?!"
"IT'S THE PRESIDENT'S BOMB SHELTER!"
He never called the number after that. He knew that he could probably cause quite a bit of excitement by calling the
number and saying something like, "The weather's not good in Washington. We're coming over for a visit." But our
friend was smart. He knew that there were some things that were better off unsaid and undone.
153.Telenet by The Mad Max
It seems that not many of you know that Telenet is connected to about 80 computer-networks in the world. No, I don't
mean 80 nodes, but 80 networks with thousands of unprotected computers. When you call your local Telenetgateway,
you can only call those computers which accept reverse-charging-calls. If you want to call computers in
foreign countries or computers in USA which do not accept R-calls, you need a Telenet-ID. Did you ever notice that
you can type ID XXXX when being connected to Telenet? You are then asked for the password. If you have such a
NUI (Network-User-ID) you can call nearly every host connected to any computer-network in the world. Here are
some examples:
026245400090184 :Is a VAX in Germany (Username: DATEXP and leave mail for CHRIS)
0311050500061 :Is the Los Alamos Integrated computing network (One of the hosts connected to it is the DNA
(Defense Nuclear Agency)!!!)
0530197000016 :Is a BBS in New Zealand
024050256 :Is the S-E-Bank in Stockholm, Sweden (Login as GAMES !!!)
02284681140541 :CERN in Geneva in Switzerland (one of the biggest nuclear research centers in the world) Login
as GUEST
0234212301161 :A Videotex-standard system. Type OPTEL to get in and use the ID 999_ with the password 9_
0242211000001 :University of Oslo in Norway (Type LOGIN 17,17 to play the Multi-User-Dungeon !)
0425130000215 :Something like ITT Dialcom, but this one is in Israel ! ID HELP with password HELP works fine
with security level 3
0310600584401 :Is the Washington Post News Service via Tymnet (Yes, Tymnet is connected to Telenet, too !) ID
and Password is: PETER You can read the news of the next day!
The prefixes are as follows:
02624 is Datex-P in Germany
02342 is PSS in England
03110 is Telenet in USA
03106 is Tymnet in USA
02405 is Telepak in Sweden
04251 is Isranet in Israel
02080 is Transpac in France
02284 is Telepac in Switzerland
02724 is Eirpac in Ireland
02704 is Luxpac in Luxembourg
05252 is Telepac in Singapore
04408 is Venus-P in Japan
...and so on...
Some of the countries have more than one packet-switching-network (USA has 11, Canada has 3, etc).
OK. That should be enough for the moment. As you see most of the passwords are very simple. This is because they
must not have any fear of hackers. Only a few German hackers use these networks. Most of the computers are
absolutely easy to hack !!! So, try to find out some Telenet-ID's and leave them here. If you need more numbers,
leave e-mail. I'm calling from Germany via the German Datex-P network, which is similar to Telenet. We have a lot of
those NUI's for the German network, but none for a special Tymnet-outdial-computer in USA, which connects me to
any phone number.
Call 026245621040000 and type ID INF300 with password DATACOM to get more Informations on packet-switchingnetworks!
The new password for the Washington Post is KING !!!!
154.Fucking with the Operator by The Jolly Roger
Ever get an operator who gave you a hard time, and you didn't know what to do? Well if the operator hears you use a
little Bell jargon, she might wise up. Here is a little diagram (excuse the artwork) of the structure of operators
/--------\ /------\ /-----\
!Operator!-- > ! S.A. ! --->! BOS !
\--------/ \------/ \-----/
!
!
V
/-------------\
! Group Chief !
\-------------/
Now most of the operators are not bugged, so they can curse at you, if they do ask INSTANTLY for the "S.A." or the
Service Assistant. The operator does not report to her (95% of them are hers) but they will solve most of your
problems. She MUST give you her name as she connects & all of these calls are bugged. If the SA gives you a rough
time get her BOS (Business Office Supervisor) on the line. S/He will almost always back her girls up, but sometimes
the SA will get tarred and feathered. The operator reports to the Group Chief, and S/He will solve 100% of your
problems, but the chances of getting S/He on the line are nill.
If a lineman (the guy who works out on the poles) or an installation man gives you the works ask to speak to the
Installation Foreman, that works wonders.
Here is some other bell jargon, that might come in handy if you are having trouble with the line. Or they can be used
to lie your way out of situations....
An Erling is a line busy for 1 hour, used mostly in traffic studies A Permanent Signal is that terrible howling you get if
you disconnect, but don't hang up.
Everyone knows what a busy signal is, but some idiots think that is the *Actual* ringing of the phone, when it just is a
tone "beeps" when the phone is ringing, wouldn't bet on this though, it can (and does) get out of sync.
When you get a busy signal that is 2 times as fast as the normal one, the person you are trying to reach isn't really on
the phone, (he might be), it is actually the signal that a trunk line somewhere is busy and they haven't or can't reroute
your call. Sometimes you will get a Recording, or if you get nothing at all (Left High & Dry in fone terms) all the
recordings are being used and the system is really overused, will probably go down in a little while. This happened
when Kennedy was shot, the system just couldn't handle the calls. By the way this is called the "reorder signal" and
the trunk line is "blocked".
One more thing, if an overseas call isn't completed and doesn't generate any money for AT&T, is called an "Air &
Water Call".
155.Phrack Magazine - Vol. 1, Issue 1 by The Iron Soldier
"Vengeance is mine", says the Phreak.
METHOD 1-PHONE LINE PHUN
Call up the business office. It should be listed at the front of the white pages. Say you wanted to disconnect Scott
Korman's line. DIAL 800-xxx-xxxx.
"Hello, this is Mr. Korman, I'm moving to California and would like to have my phone service disconnected. I'm at the
airport now. I'm calling from a payphone, my number is [414] 445 5005. You can send my final bill to: (somewhere in
California). Thank you."
METHOD 2-PHONE BOOKS
Call up the business office from a pay phone. Say :
"Hello, I'd like to order a Phone Book for Upper Volta (or any out-of-the way area with Direct Dialing). This is Scott
Korman, ship to 3119 N. 44th St. Milwaukee, WI 53216. Yes, I under stand it will cost $xx($25-$75!!). Thank you."
METHOD 3-PHONE CALLS
Call up a PBX, enter the code and get an outside line. Then dial 0+ the number desired to call. You will hear a bonk
and then an operator. Say, "I'd like to charge this to my home phone at 414-445-5005. Thank you." A friend and I did
this to a loser, I called him at 1:00 AM and we left the fone off the hook all night. I calculated that it cost him $168.
METHOD 4-MISC. SERVICES
Call up the business office once again from a payfone. Say you'd like call waiting, forwarding, 3 way, etc. Once again
you are the famed loser Scott Korman. He pays-you laugh. You don't know how funny it was talking to him, and
wondering what those clicks he kept hearing were.
METHOD 5-CHANGED & UNPUB
Do the same as in #4, but say you'd like to change and unlist your (Scott's)
number. Anyone calling him will get:
"BEW BEW BEEP. The number you have reached, 445-5005, has been changed to a non-published number. No
further....."
METHOD 6-FORWARDING
This required an accomplice or two or three. Around Christmas time, go to Toys 'R' Us. Get everyone at the customer
service or manager's desk away ("Hey, could you help me"). Then you get on their phone and dial (usually dial 9 first)
and the business office again. This time, say you are from Toys 'R' Us, and you'd like to add call forwarding to 445-
5005. Scott will get 100-600 calls a day!!!
METHOD 7-RUSSIAN CALLER
Call a payphone at 10:00 PM. Say to the operator that you'd like to book a call to Russia. Say you are calling from a
payphone, and your number is that of the loser to fry (e.g. 445-5005). She will say that she'll have to call ya back in 5
hours, and you OK that. Meanwhile the loser (e.g.) Scott, will get a call at 3:00 AM from an operator saying that the
call he booked to Russia is ready.
156.International Country Code Listing by The Jolly Roger
*UNITED KINGDOM/IRELAND
------------------------------------
IRELAND.........................353
UNITED KINGDOM...................44
*EUROPE
------------------------------------
ANDORRA..........................33
AUSTRIA..........................43
BELGIUM..........................32
CYPRUS..........................357
CZECHOLSLOVAKIA..................42
DENMARK..........................45
FINLAND.........................358
FRANCE...........................33
GERMAN DEMOCRATIC REPUBLIC.......37
GERMANY, FEDERAL REPUBLIC OF.....49
GIBRALTAR.......................350
GREECE...........................30
HUNGARY..........................36
ICELAND.........................354
ITALY............................39
LIECHTENSTEIN....................41
LUXEMBOURG......................352
MONACO...........................33
NETHERLANDS......................31
NORWAY...........................47
POLAND...........................48
PORTUGAL........................351
ROMANIA..........................40
SAN MARINO.......................39
SPAIN............................34
SWEDEN...........................46
SWITZERLAND......................41
TURKEY...........................90
VATICAN CITY.....................39
YUGOSLAVIA.......................38
*CENTRAL AMERICA
------------------------------------
BELIZE.........................«01
COSTA RICA.....................«06
EL SALVADOR....................«03
GUATEMALA......................«02
HONDURAS.......................«04
NICARAGUA......................«05
PANAMA.........................«07
*AFRICA
------------------------------------
ALGERIA.........................213
CAMEROON........................237
EGYPT............................20
ETHIOPIA........................251
GABON...........................241
IVORY COAST.....................225
KENYA...........................254
LESOTHO.........................266
LIBERIA.........................231
LIBYA...........................218
MALAWI..........................265
MOROCCO.........................212
NAMIBIA.........................264
NIGERIA.........................234
SENEGAL.........................221
SOUTH AFRICA.....................27
SWAZILAND.......................268
TANZANIA........................255
TUNISIA.........................216
UGANDA..........................256
ZAMBIA..........................260
ZIMBABWE........................263
*PACIFIC
------------------------------------
AMERICAN SAMOA..................684
AUSTRALIA........................61
BRUNEI..........................673
FIJI............................679
FRENCH POLYNESIA................689
GUAM............................671
HONG KONG.......................852
INDONESIA........................62
JAPAN............................81
KOREA, REPUBLIC OF...............82
MALAYSIA.........................60
NEW CALEDONIA...................687
NEW ZEALAND......................64
PAPUA NEW GUINEA................675
PHILIPPINES......................63
SAIPAN..........................670
SINGAPORE........................65
TAIWAN..........................886
THAILAND.........................66
*INDIAN OCEAN
------------------------------------
PAKISTAN.........................92
SRI LANKA........................94
*SOUTH AMERICA
------------------------------------
ARGENTINA.......................«4
BOLIVIA........................«91
BRAZIL..........................«5
CHILE...........................«6
COLOMBIA........................«7
ECUADOR........................«93
GUYANA.........................«92
PARAGUAY.......................«95
PERU............................«1
SURINAM........................«97
URUGUAY........................«98
VENEZUELA.......................«8
*NEAR EAST
------------------------------------
BAHRAIN.........................973
IRAN.............................98
IRAQ............................964
ISRAEL..........................972
JORDAN..........................962
KUWAIT..........................965
OMAN............................968
QATAR...........................974
SAUDI ARABIA....................966
UNITED ARAB EMIRATES............971
YEMEN ARAB REPUBLIC.............967
*CARIBBEAN/ATLANTIC
------------------------------------
FRENCH ANTILLES................«96
GUANTANAMO BAY (US NAVY BASE)...«3
HAITI..........................«09
NETHERLANDS ANTILLES...........«99
ST. PIERRE AND MIQUELON........«08
*INDIA
------------------------------------
INDIA............................91
*CANADA
------------------------------------
TO CALL CANADA, DIAL 1 + AREA CODE + LOCAL NUMBER.
*MEXICO
------------------------------------
TO CALL MEXICO, DIAL 011 + 52 + CITY CODE+ LOCAL NUMBER.
To dial international calls:
International Access Code + Country code + Routing code
Example :
To call Frankfurt, Germany, you would do the following:
011 + 49 + 611 + (# wanted) + # sign(octothrope)
The # sign at the end is to tell Bell that you are done entering in all the needed info.
157.The Infinity Transmitter: by <<<Ghost Wind>>>
FROM THE BOOK BUILD YOUR OWN
LASER, PHASER, ION RAY GUN & OTHER WORKING SPACE-AGE PROJECTS
BY ROBERT IANNINI (TAB BOOKS INC.)
Description: Briefly, the Infinity Transmitter is a device which activates a microphone via a phone call. It is plugged
into the phone line, and when the phone rings, it will immediately intercept the ring and broadcast into the phone any
sound that is in the room. This device was originally made by Information Unlimited, and had a touch tone decoder to
prevent all who did not know the code from being able to use the phone in its normal way. This version, however, will
activate the microphone for anyone who calls while it is in operation.
NOTE: It is illegal to use this device to try to bug someone. It is also pretty stupid because they are fairly noticeable.
Parts List:
Pretend that uF means micro Farad, cap = capacitor
Part # Description
---- - -----------
R1,4,8 3 390 k ¬ watt resistor
R2 1 5.6 M ¬ watt resistor
R3,5,6 3 6.8 k ¬ watt resistor
R7/S1 1 5 k pot/switch
R9,16 2 100 k ¬ watt resistor
R10 1 2.2 k ¬ watt resistor
R13,18 2 1 k ¬ watt resistor
R14 1 470 ohm ¬ watt resistor
R15 1 10 k ¬ watt resistor
R17 1 1 M ¬ watt resistor
C1 1 .05 uF/25 V disc cap
C2,3,5,6,7 5 1 uF 50 V electrolytic cap or tant (preferably non-polarized)
C4,11,12 3 .01 uF/50 V disc cap
C8,10 2 100 uF @ 25 V electrolytic cap
C9 1 5 uF @ 150 V electrolytic cap
C13 1 10 uF @ 25 V electrolytic cap
TM1 1 555 timer dip
A1 1 CA3018 amp array in can
Q1,2 2 PN2222 npn sil transistor
Q3 1 D4OD5 npn pwr tab transistor
D1,2 2 50 V 1 amp react. 1N4002
T1 1 1« k/500 matching transformer
M1 1 large crystal microphone
J1 1 Phono jack optional for sense output
WR3 (24") #24 red and black hook up wire
WR4 (24") #24 black hook up wire
CL3,4 2 Alligator clips
CL1,2 2 6" battery snap clips
PB1 1 1 3/4x4 «x.1 perfboard
CA1 1 5 ¬x3x2 1/8 grey enclosure fab
WR15 (12") #24 buss wire
KN1 1 small plastic knob
BU1 1 small clamp bushing
B1,2 2 9 volt transistor battery or 9V ni-cad
Circuit Operation: Not being the most technical guy in the world, and not being very good at electronics (yet), I'm just
repeating what Mr. Iannini's said about the circuit operation. The Transmitter consists of a high grain amplifier fed into
the telephone lines via transformer. The circuit is initiated by the action of a voltage transient pulse occurring across
the phone line at the instant the telephone circuit is made (the ring, in other words). This transient immediately
triggers a timer whose output pin 3 goes positive, turning on transistors Q2 and Q3. Timer TM1 now remains in this
state for a period depending on the values of R17 and C13 (usually about 10 seconds for the values shown). When
Q3 is turned on by the timer, a simulated "off hook" condition is created by the switching action of Q3 connecting the
500 ohm winding of the transformer directly across the phone lines. Simultaneously, Q2 clamps the ground of A1,
amplifier, and Q1, output transistor, to the negative return of B1, B2, therefore enabling this amplifier section. Note
that B2 is always required by supplying quiescent power to TM1 during normal conditions. System is off/on
controlled by S1 (switch). A crystal mike picks up the sounds that are fed to the first two transistors of the A1 array
connected as an emitter follower driving the remaining two transistors as cascaded common emitters. Output of
the array now drives Q1 capacitively coupled to the 1500 ohm winding of T1. R7 controls the pick up sensitivity
of the system. Diode D1 is forward biased at the instant of connection and essentially applies a negative pulse at
pin 2 of TM1, initiating the cycle. D2 clamps any high positive pulses. C9 dc-isolates and desensitizes the circuit.
The system described should operate when any incoming call is made without ringing the phone.
Schematic Diagram: Because this is text, this doesn't look too hot. Please use a little imagination! I will hopefully get
a graphics drawing of this out as soon as I can on a Fontrix graffile.
To be able to see what everything is, this character: | should appear as a horizontal bar. I did this on a ][e using a ][e
80 column card, so I'm sorry if it looks kinda weird to you.
Symbols:
resistor: -/\/\/- switch: _/ _
battery: -|!|!- capacitor (electrolytic): -|(-
capacitor (disc): -||- _ _
transistor:(c) > (e) Transformer: )||(
\_/ )||(
|(b) _)||(_
diode: |<
chip: ._____.
!_____! (chips are easy to recognize!)
Dots imply a connection between wires. NO DOT, NO CONNECTION.
i.e..: _!_ means a connection while _|_ means no connection.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------¼-
.________________________to GREEN wire phone line
|
| .______________________to RED wire phone line
| |
| | ._________(M1)______________.
| | | |
| | | R1 |
| | !__________/\/\/____________!
| | | _!_ C1
| | |this wire is the amp ___
| | |<=ground | R2
| | | !___________________/\/\/_____________.
| | | ._______!_______. |
| | !___________________!4 9 11!_____________________________!
| | | | | |
| | !___________________!7 12._____________________________!
| | | | A1 | R3 |
| | !___________________!10 ____*8!_______.____/\/\/____________!
| | | | / | | |
| | | C4 | / | \ |2ma
| | !____||______. | / | /R4 B1 +
| | | || | | / | \ |
| | | R7 | C2 | / | / |
| | !____/\/\/___!__)|__!8*_/ | | S1 |
| | | ^ | 6!_______! neg<__/.__!
| | | | C3 | | | C5 return |
| | | !_____|(___.__!3 | '-|(-| |
| | | | | 5 1!____________! |
| | | \ !_______._______! | B2|
| | !________. R8 / | | +
| | | \ | | R6 |3ma
| | | !__________!____________________|_____/\/\/______!
| | | R5 | | |
| | !__/\/\/___________|____________________! |
| | | | |
| | | | |
| | | C6 | |
| | | |-)|-' R9 |
| | | !_________________/\/\/_______. |
| | | | | |
| | | Q1 _!_ | R10 |
| | !____________/ \____________________________!__/\/\/_____!
| | | | |
| | | | |
| | | C8 | |
| | !__________)|_______________________________|____________!
| | ! | |
| | / | |
| | -----| | |
| | | \ | |
| | | > | |
| | | | | |
| | | | | |
| | | !_____________. | |
| | | | | |
| | !__________. | | |
| | | | | |
| !________. | | ._____! |
| | | | | |
| | | | | |
| | | | | C7 |
| | | | '-|(-| |
| |_________|_________!_______.T1._________________| |
| | | 1500 )||( 500 |
| | | ohm )||( ohm |
| | !______.)||(.__. |
| | | | |
| | | | |
| | | > |
| | | |/ |
| | | +----| Q3 |
| | | | |\ |
!____________________|_________|_______|______!__. D1 C9 |
| | | '-|<---|(------| |
.______________! | | | |
| | | | |
| .________________! | | |
| | | | |
\ | .________________! C11 | |
/ | | .___||____________! |
R13 \ | | | || | |
/ | | | | |
\ !___.___|_______________________! | |
| | | | | R16 | R15 |
| v | | !___/\/\/\________!___/\/\/_!
| neg | | | D2 | |
| return | | !_____|<__________! |
| B1,B2 | \ | | |
| | / | .____________!_. |
| | \R14 |C12 | TM1 2 | |
| | / !_||_!5 4!_______!
| | \ | || | | |
| | | !____!1 8!_______!
| | | | | 7 6 3 | |
| | | | !_____._.____._! |
| | | | | | | |
| | | | C13 | | | R17 |
| | | !___)|_____!_!____|__/\/\/__!
| | | | | |
!___________|___!_______________________|_________________! |
| | | |
| \ | C10 |
| /R18 !__________)|_______________!
| \
| /
| |
!___O J1
sense output
Construction notes: Because the damned book just gave a picture instead of step by step instructions, and I'll try to
give you as much help as possible. Note that all the parts that you will be using are clearly labeled in the schematic.
The perfboard, knobs, 'gator clips, etc are optional. I do strongly suggest that you do use the board!!! It will make
wiring the components up much much easier than if you don't use it. The knob you can use to control the pot (R7).
R7 is used to tune the IT so that is sounds Ok over the phone. (You get to determine what sounds good) By changing
the value of C13, you can change the amount of time that the circuit will stay open (it cannot detect a hang up, so it
works on a timer.) A value of 100 micro Farads will increase the time by about 10 times. The switch (S1) determines
whether or not the unit is operational. Closed is on. Open is off. The negative return is the negative terminals of the
battery!! The batteries will look something like this when hooked up:
<-v_____. .______. ._____. .____->
| | | | | |
__!___!__ | | __!___!__
| + - | !_/ _! | + - |
| | switch ^ | |
| 9volts| | | 9volts|
!_______! neg return !_______!
To hook this up to the phone line, there are three ways, depending upon what type of jack you have. If it is the old
type (non modular) then you can just open up the wall plate and connect the wires from the transmitter directly to the
terminals of the phone.
If you have a modular jack with four prongs, attach the red to the negative prong (don't ask me which is which! I don't
have that type of jack... I've only seen them in stores), and the green to the positive prong, and plug in. Try not to
shock yourself...
If you have the clip-in type jack, get double male extension cord (one with a clip on each end), and chop off one clip.
Get a sharp knife and splice off the gray protective material. You should see four wires, including one green and one
red. You attach the appropriate wires from the IT to these two, and plug the other end into the wall.
Getting the IT to work: If you happen to have a problem, you should attempt to do the following (these are common
sense rules!!) Make sure that you have the polarity of all the capacitors right (if you used polarized capacitors, that
is). Make sure that all the soldering is done well and has not short circuited something accidentally (like if you have a
glob touching two wires which should not be touching.) Check for other short circuits. Check to see if the battery is in
right. Check to make sure the switch is closed. If it still doesn't work, drop me a line on one of the Maryland or
Virginia BBSs and I'll try to help you out.
The sense output: Somehow or other, it is possible to hook something else up to this and activate it by phone (like an
alarm, flashing lights, etc.)
158.LSD by The Jolly Roger
I think, of all the drugs on the black market today, LSD is the strangest. It is the most recent major drug to come to
life in the psychedelic subculture. (Blah blah blah... let's get to the good stuff: How to make it in your kitchen!!)
1.Grind up 150 grams of Morning Glory seeds or baby Hawaiian wood rose seeds.
2.In 130 cc. of petroleum ether, soak the seeds for two days.
3.Filter the solution through a tight screen.
4.Throw away the liquid, and allow the seed mush to dry.
5.For two days allow the mush to soak in 110 cc. of wood alcohol.
6.Filter the solution again, saving the liquid and labeling it "1."
7.Resoak the mush in 110 cc. of wood alcohol for two days.
8.Filter and throw away the mush.
9.Add the liquid from the second soak to the solution labeled "1."
10.Pour the liquid into a cookie tray and allow it to evaporate.
11.When all of the liquid has evaporated, a yellow gum remains. This should be scraped up and put into capsules.
30 grams of Morning Glory seeds = 1 trip
15 Hawaiian wood rose seeds = 1 trip
Many companies, such as Northop-King have been coating their seeds with a toxic chemical, which is poison. Order
seeds from a wholesaler, as it is much safer and cheaper. Hawaiian wood rose seeds can be ordered directly from:
Chong's Nursery and Flowers
P.O. Box 2154
Honolulu, Hawaii
LSD DOSAGES
The basic dosages of acid vary according to what kind of acid is available and what medium of ingestion is used.
Chemically, the potency of LSD-25 is measured in micrograms, or mics. If you're chemically minded or making your
own acid, then computing the number of micrograms is very important. Usually between 500 and 800 mics is plenty
for an 8 hour trip, depending on the quality of the acid, of course. I have heard of people taking as much as 1,500-
2,000 mics. This is not only extremely dangerous, it is extremely wasteful.
LSD comes packaged in many different forms. The most common are listed below:
1.The brown spot, or a piece of paper with a dried drop of LSD on it, is always around. Usually one spot equals one
trip.
2.Capsuled acid is very tricky, as the cap can be almost any color, size, or potency. Always ask what the acid is cut
with, as a lot of acid is cut with either speed or strychnine. Also note dosage.
3.Small white or colored tablets have been known to contain acid, but, as with capsuled acid, it's impossible to tell
potency, without asking.
159.Bananas by The Jolly Roger
Believe it or not, bananas do contain a small quantity of _Musa Sapientum bananadine_, which is a mild, shortlasting
psychedelic. There are much easier ways of getting high, but the great advantage to this method is that
bananas are legal.
1.Obtain 15 lbs. of ripe yellow bananas.
2.Peel all 15 lbs. and eat the fruit. Save the peels.
3.With a sharp knife, scrape off the insides of the peels and save the scraped material.
4.Put all of the scraped material in a large pot and add water. Boil for three to four hours until it has attained a solid
paste consistency.
5.Spread this paste on cookie sheets, and dry in an over for about 20 minutes to a half hour. This will result in a fine
black powder. Makes about one pound of bananadine powder. Usually one will feel the effects of bananadine
after smoking three or four cigarettes.
1 banana = 100grams
Table of Weights
Pounds Ounces Grams Kilos
1 16 453.6 0.4536
0.0625 1 28.35 0.0283
0.0022 0.0352 1 0.001
2.205 35.27 1,000 1
160.Yummy Marihuana Recipes by The Jolly Roger
Acapulco Green
3 ripe avocados
« cup chopped onions
2 teaspoons chili powder
3 tablespoons wine vinegar
« cup chopped marihuana (grass)
Mix the vinegar, grass, and chili powder together and let the mixture stand for one hour. Then add avocados and
onions and mash it all together. It can be served with tacos or as a dip.
Pot Soup
1 can condensed beef broth
3 tablespoons grass
3 tablespoons lemon juice
« can water
3 tablespoons chopped watercress
Combine all ingredients in a saucepan and bring to a boil over medium heat. Place in a refrigerator for two to three
hours, reheat, and serve.
Pork and Beans and Pot
1 large can (1 lb. 13 oz.) pork and beans
« cup grass
4 slices bacon
« cup light molasses
« teaspoon hickory salt
3 pineapple rings
Mix together in a casserole, cover top with pineapple and bacon, bake at 350ø for about 45 minutes. Serves about
six.
The Meat Ball
1 lb. hamburger
¬ cup chopped onions
1 can cream of mushroom soup
¬ cup bread crumbs
3 tablespoons grass
3 tablespoons India relish
Mix it all up and shape into meat balls. Brown in frying pan and drain. Place in a casserole with soup and « cup water,
cover and cook over low heat for about 30 minutes. Feeds about four people.
Spaghetti Sauce
1 can (6 oz.) tomato paste
2 tablespoons olive oil
« cup chopped onions
« cup chopped grass
1 pinch pepper
1 can (6 oz.) water
« clove minced garlic
1 bay leaf
1 pinch thyme
« teaspoon salt
Mix in large pot, cover and simmer with frequent stirring for two hours. Serve over spaghetti.
Pot Loaf
1 packet onion soup mix
1 (16 oz.) can whole peeled tomatoes
« cup chopped grass
2 lbs. ground beef or chicken or turkey
1 egg
4 slices bread, crumbled
Mix all ingredients and shape into a loaf. Bake for one hour in 400ø oven. Serves about six.
Chili Bean Pot
2 lbs. pinto beans
1 lb. bacon, cut into two-inch sections
2 cups red wine
4 tablespoons chili powder
« clove garlic
1 cup chopped grass
« cup mushrooms
Soak beans overnight in water. In a large pot pour boiling water over beans and simmer for at least an hour, adding
more water to keep beans covered. Now add all other ingredients and continue to simmer for another three hours.
Salt to taste. Serves about ten.
Bird Stuffing
5 cups rye bread crumbs
2 tablespoons poultry seasoning
« cup each of raisins and almonds
« cup celery
1/3 cup chopped onions
3 tablespoons melted butter
« cup chopped grass
2 tablespoons red wine
Mix it all together, and then stuff it in.
Apple Pot
4 apples (cored)
« cup brown sugar
¬ cup water
4 cherries
1/3 cup chopped grass
2 tablespoons cinnamon
Powder the grass in a blender, then mix grass with sugar and water. Stuff cores with this paste. Sprinkle apples with
cinnamon, and top with a cherry. Bake for 25 minutes at 350ø.
Pot Brownies
« cup flour
3 tablespoons shortening
2 tablespoons honey
1 egg (beaten)
1 tablespoon water
« cup grass
pinch of salt
¬ teaspoon baking powder
« cup sugar
2 tablespoons corn syrup
1 square melted chocolate
1 teaspoon vanilla
« cup chopped nuts
Sift flour, baking powder, and salt together. Mix shortening, sugar, honey, syrup, and egg. Then blend in chocolate
and other ingredients, and mix well. Spread in an 8-inch pan and bake for 20 minutes at 350ø.
Banana Bread
« cup shortening
2 eggs
1 teaspoon lemon juice
3 teaspoons baking powder
1 cup sugar
1 cup mashed bananas
2 cups sifted flour
« cup chopped grass
« teaspoon salt
1 cup chopped nuts
Mix the shortening and sugar, beat eggs, and add to mixture. Separately mix bananas with lemon juice and add to
the first mixture. Sift flour, salt, and baking powder together, then mix all ingredients together. Bake for 1 ¬ hours at
375ø.
Sesame Seed Cookies
3 oz. ground roast sesame seeds
3 tablespoons ground almonds
¬ teaspoon nutmeg
¬ cup honey
« teaspoon ground ginger
¬ teaspoon cinnamon
¬ oz. grass
Toast the grass until slightly brown and then crush it in a mortar. Mix crushed grass with all other ingredients, in a
skillet. Place skillet over low flame and add 1 tablespoon of salt butter. Allow it to cook. When cool, roll mixture into
little balls and dip them into the sesame seeds.
If you happen to be in the country at a place where pot is being grown, here's one of the greatest recipes you can try.
Pick a medium-sized leaf off of the marihuana plant and dip it into a cup of drawn butter, add salt, and eat.
161.Peanuts by the Jolly Roger
Try this sometime when you are bored!
1.Take one pound of raw peanuts (not roasted!)
2.Shell them, saving the skins and discarding the shells.
3.Eat the nuts.
4.Grind up the skins and roll them into a cigarette, and smoke!
You'll have fun, believe me!
162.Chemical Fire Bottle by the Jolly Roger
This incendiary bottle is self-igniting on target impact.
Materials Required
Material How Used Common Source
Sulphuric Acid Storage Batteries Motor Vehicles
Material Processing Industrial Plants
Gasoline Motor Fuel Gas Station
Motor Vehicles
Potassium Chlorate Medicine Drug Stores
Sugar Sweetening Foods Food Store
Glass bottle with stopper (roughly 1 quart size)
Small Bottle or jar with lid.
Rag or absorbent paper (paper towels, newspaper)
String or rubber bands
Procedure:
1.Sulphuric Acid MUST be concentrated. If battery acid or other dilute acid is used, concentrate it by boiling until
dense white fumes are given off. Container used to boil should be of enamel-ware or oven glass.
CAUTION: Sulphuric Acid will burn skin and destroy clothing. If any is spilled, wash it away with a large quantity of water. Fumes are also VERY dangerous and should not be inhaled.
2.Remove the acid from heat and allow to cool to room temperature.
3.Pour gasoline into the large 1 quart bottle until it is approximately 1/3 full.
4.Add concentrated sulphuric acid to gasoline slowly until the bottle is filled to within 1" to 2" from top. Place the
stopper on the bottle.
5.Wash the outside of the bottle thoroughly with clear water.
CAUTION: If this is not done, the fire bottle may be dangerous to handle during use!
6.Wrap a clean cloth or several sheets of absorbent paper around the outside of the bottle. Tie with string or fasten
with rubber bands.
7.Dissolve « cup (100 grams) of potassium chlorate and « cup (100 grams) of sugar in one cup (250 cc) of boiling
water.
8.Allow the solution to cool, pour into the small bottle and cap tightly. The cooled solution should be approx. 2/3
crystals and 1/3 liquid. If there is more than this, pour off excess before using.
CAUTION: Store this bottle separately from the other bottle!
How To Use:
1.Shake the small bottle to mix contents and pour onto the cloth or paper around the large bottle. Bottle can be used
wet or after solution is dried. However, when dry, the sugar-Potassium chlorate mixture is very sensitive to spark
or flame and should be handled accordingly.
2.Throw or launch the bottle. When the bottle breaks against a hard surface (target) the fuel will ignite.
163.Igniter from Book Matches by The Jolly Roger
This is a hot igniter made from paper book matches for use with molotov cocktail and other incendiaries.
Material Required:
Paper book matches
Adhesive or friction tape
Procedure:
1.Remove the staple(s) from match book and separate matches from cover.
2.Fold and tape one row of matches (fold in thirds)
3.Shape the cover into a tube with striking surface on the inside and tape. Make sure the folder cover will fit tightly
around the taped match heads. Leave cover open at opposite end for insertion of the matches.
4.Push the taped matches into the tube until the bottom ends are exposed about 3/4 in. (2 cm)
5.Flatten and fold the open end of the tube so that it laps over about 1 in. (2-« cm); tape in place.
Use with a Molotov Cocktail:
1.Tape the "match end tab" of the igniter to the neck of the molotov cocktail.
2.Grasp the "cover and tab" and pull sharply or quickly to ignite.
General Use:
The book match igniter can be used by itself to ignite flammable liquids, fuse cords, and similar items requiring hot
ignition.
CAUTION: Store matches and completed igniters in moistureproof containers such as rubber or plastic bags until
ready for use. Damp or wet paper book matches will not ignite.
164."Red or White Powder" Propellant by the Jolly Roger
"Red or White Powder" Propellant may be prepared in a simple, safe manner. The formulation described below will
result in approximately 2 « pounds of powder. This is a small arms propellant and should only be used in weapons
with « in. diameter or less (but not pistols!).
Material Required:
Heat Source (Kitchen Stove or open fire)
2 gallon metal bucket
Measuring cup (8 ounces)
Wooden spoon or rubber spatula
Metal sheet or aluminum foil (at least 18 in. sq.)
Flat window screen (at least 1 foot square)
Potassium Nitrate (granulated) 2-1/3 cups
White sugar (granulated) 2 cups
Powdered ferric oxide (rust) 1/8 cup (if available)
Clear water, 1-« cups
Procedure:
1.Place the sugar, potassium nitrate, and water in the bucket. Heat with a low flame, stirring occasionally until the
sugar and potassium nitrate dissolve.
2.If available, add the ferric oxide (rust) to the solution. Increase the flame under the mixture until it boils gently.
NOTE: The mixture will retain the rust coloration.
3.Stir and scrape the bucket sides occasionally until the mixture is reduced to one quarter of its original volume, then
stir continuously.
4.As the water evaporates, the mixture will become thicker until it reaches the consistency of cooked breakfast cereal
or homemade fudge. At this stage of thickness, remove the bucket from the heat source, and spread the mass
on the metal sheet.
5.While the material cools, score it with a spoon or spatula in crisscrossed furrows about 1 inch apart.
6.Allow the material to dry, preferably in the sun. As it dries, restore it accordingly (about every 20 minutes) to aid
drying.
7.When the material has dried to a point where it is moist and soft but not sticky to the touch, place a small spoonful
on the screen. Rub the material back and forth against the screen mesh with spoon or other flat object until the
material is granulated into small worm-like particles.
8.After granulation, return the material to the sun to allow to dry completely.
165.Pipe Hand Grenade by the Jolly Roger
Hand Grenades can be made from a piece of iron pipe. The filler can be of plastic or granular military explosive,
improvised explosive, or propellant from shotgun or small arms ammunition.
Material Required:
Iron Pipe, threaded ends, 1-«" to 3" diameter, 3" to 8" long.
Two (2) iron pipe caps
Explosive or propellant
Nonelectric blasting cap (Commercial or military)
Fuse cord
Hand Drill
Pliers
Procedure:
1.Place blasting cap on one end of fuse cord and crimp with pliers.
NOTE: To find out how long the fuse cord should be, check the time it takes a known length to burn. If 12 inches
burns in 30 seconds, a 6 inch cord will ignite the grenade in 15 seconds.
2.Screw pipe cap to one end of the pipe. Place fuse cord with blasting cap into the opposite end so that the blasting
cap is near the center of the pipe.
NOTE: If plastic explosive is to be used, fill pipe BEFORE inserting blasting cap. Push a round stick into the center of
the explosive to make a hole and then insert the blasting cap.
3.Pour explosive or propellant into pipe a little bit at a time. Tap the base of the pipe frequently to settle filler.
4.Drill a hole in the center of the unassembled pipe cap large enough for the fuse cord to pass through.
5.Wipe pipe threads to remove any filler material. Slide the drilled pipe cap over the fuse and screw hand tight onto
the pipe.
166.European Credit Card Fraud by Creditman!
UK credit card fraud is a lot easier than over in the States. The same basic 3 essentials are needed:
1.A safehouse.
2.Credit card numbers with Exp. date and address.
3.Good suppliers of next day delivery goods.
The Safehouse
The safehouse should be on the ground floor, so as not to piss off the delivery man when he comes to drop off your
freshly stolen gear. If he has to go up 10 flights in a complete dive and some 14 year old kid signs for an A2000 then
he's gonna wonder! Make sure there are no nosy neighbors, a good area is one full of yuppies 'cos they all go to
work during daytime. Safehouses are usually obtained by paying a month's rent in advance or putting down a deposit
of say, $200. Either that or break into a place and use that.
Credit Card Numbers
The card number, expiry date, start date (if possible), full name (including middle initial), phone number and full
address with postcode are ideal. If you can only get the sirname, and no postcode, you shouldn't have any real
hassle. Just say you moved recently to your new address. Phone number is handy, if it just rings and rings but if it
doesn't, then make sure it's ex-directory. You CANNOT get away with giving them a bullshit phone number. Some
fussy companies want phone numbers just to cross-check on CARDNET but generally it's not needed. To recap,
here's a quick check-list:
1.Card number and expiry date.
2.Name and address of card holder.
3.First name/initials (OPTIONAL)
4.Start date (OPTIONAL)
5.Postcode (OPTIONAL)
6.Phone number (OPTIONAL)
If you have all 6, then you shouldn't have any hassle. Start date is the rarest item you could be asked for, postcode
and initials being more common. If you are missing 3-6 then you need one helluva smooth- talking bastard on the
phone line!!!!
The Ordering
Not everyone can order $1000's of stuff - it's not easy. You have to be cool, smooth and have some good answers to
their questions. I advise that you only order up to $500 worth of stuff in one go, but if you have details 1-6 and the
phone number will NOT be answered from 9 to 5.30 P.M. then go up to $1000 (make sure it's a GOLD card!). When
getting ready to order make sure you have at least 3 times the amount of suppliers you need e.g. if you want to card
5 hard-drives, make sure you have 15 suppliers. A lot of the time, they are either out stock, can't do next day delivery
or won't deliver to a different address. Quick check list of what you must ask before handing over number:
1.Next day delivery, OK?
2.Ordered to different address to card, OK?
3.Do you have item in stock (pretty obvious, eh?)
Make sure you ask ALL of these questions before handing over your precious number.
Excuses
Usual excuses for a different address are that it's a present or you're on business here for the next 5 weeks etc. Any
old bullshit why it won't go to the proper address.
WARNING! Invoices! WARNING!
Invoices are sometimes sent out with the actual parcel but they are also sent out to the card owners (why do you
think they need the address for?) so using a safehouse for more than 2 days is risky. A 1 day shot is safe, if they
catch on then they'll stop the goods before getting a search warrant.
Credit Limits
Limits on cards reach from $500 to $4000 on Gold cards. Your average card will be about $1000-$1500. It takes a
while to build up a good credit rating in order to have large limits so don't think every card will hold 12 IBM 386's! Visa
and Access are always used - American Express etc. are USELESS.
Access = Eurocard, Mastercard (begins with 5)
Visa = (begins with 4, 16 digit is a Gold)
A general rule is, always confirm an order to make sure credit is cleared. As the month goes on, credit is used up -
the bad times are from 27th - 3rd which is when all the bills come in. Best time to card is around 11th or 12th, when
the poor guy has paid off his last bill so you can run up a new one (he, he, he!).
Ideal items to card
The best stuff is always computer hard-ware as it's next-day. Amigas, ST's, PC's - anything really. Blank discs are a
waste of time, they're too heavy. External drives, monitors - good stuff basically. Don't order any shit like VCR's, Hi-Fi,
video-cameras, music keyboards, computer software, jewerely or anything under $300. You'll find the listed items are
difficult to get next day delivery and usually won't deliver to a different address - bastards, eh? You're wasting your
time with little items under $300, try to keep deliveries under 10 a day.
The drop - Two ways of doing the drop
1.Sign for all the gear (make sure you're there between 9.00 and 5.30 P.M.)
2.Don't turn up till around 6.30 P.M. and collect all the cards that the delivery man has left. These usually say 'you
were out at XX time so could you please arrange new time for delivery or pick up from our depot'. In that case,
piss off to the depot and get all the gear (need a big car!).
Remember, carding is ILLEGAL kiddies, so don't get caught.
167.Potassium Bomb by Exodus
This is one of my favorites. This creates a very unstable explosive in a very stable container. You will need:
1.A two-ended bottle. These are kinda hard to find, you have to look around, but if you cant find one, you will need a
similar container in which there are two totally separate sides that are airtight and accessible at the ends, like
this:
!airtight separator!
________________!_________________
| | |
/ | \
---- | ----
| c | | |c |
| a | | | a |
|___p| | |__p_|
\ | /
| | |
-----------------|------------------
the separator MUST remain airtight/watertight so this doesn't blow off your arm in the process (Believe me. It will if
you are not exact.)
2.Pure potassium. Not Salt Peter, or any shit like that. This must be the pure element. This again may prove hard to
find. Try a school chemistry teacher. Tell her you need it for a project, or some shit like that. Try to get the
biggest piece you can, because this works best if it a solid chuck, not a powder. You can also try Edmund
Scientific Co. at:
Dept. 11A6
C929 Edscorp Bldg.
Barrington, NJ 08007
or call 1-(609)-547-8880
3.Cotton
4.Water
Instructions:
Take the cotton and stuff some into one end of the container lining one side of the separator. Place some potassium,
about the size of a quarter or bigger (CAREFULLY, and make sure your hands are PERFECTLY DRY, this stuff
reacts VERY VIOLENTLY with water) into that side and pack it in tightly with all the cotton you can fit. Now screw the
cap on TIGHTLY.
On the other side of the separator, fill it with as much water as will fit, and screw that cap on TIGHTLY. You are now
in possession of a compact explosive made somewhat stable. To explode, throw it at something! The water will react
with the potassium, and BBBOOOOOOMMMM!!! Works great on windows or windshields, because the glass
fragments go everywhere (stand back) and rip stuff apart. The bigger the piece, the bigger the boom. If no potassium
can be found, try looking for PURE Sodium, it works well too.
PS: You could also place this little sucker under the wheel of a car of someone you hate...(Wait till' they back over
that one!!!)
168.Your Legal Rights by Exodus
Because you possess this little collection of mostly illegal concepts, you should be aware of your legal rights IF
arrested (hey, it happens to the worst of us).
Your Legal Rights are:
1.Have a hearing before a magistrate or judge, as soon as possible after you are arrested.
2.Be notified of the charges against you.
3.Have a reasonable bail set, if bail is granted.
4.Have a FAIR, IMPARTIAL trial by jury.
5.Be present at all stages of the trial.
6.Confront your accusers. (without the baseball bat)
7.Have your lawyer cross-examine the witnesses.
8.Have your lawyer call on witnesses on your behalf.
9.Be tried for a crime only once.
10.Receive neither cruel nor unusual punishment if you are convicted of a crime and sentenced.
NOTE!!!: These rights are for after you are arrested, and do not include the reading of the rights, etc. If these rights
are violated in ANY way, that may be cause for a mistrial, or even total release.
169.How The Law Protects Juvenile Offenders by Exodus
Juveniles accused of breaking the law are granted some special rights intended to protect the, because of their age.
If a juvenile is charged with a crime punishable by a term in a reform school or juvenile detention facility, he is
assured the right to:
1.Remain silent, and not incriminate himself/herself.
2.Be placed in quarters separate from adult offenders while being held in custody.
3.Be notified before a hearing of the charges against him.
4.Be released to his parents or guardians after signing a written promise to appear at his trial (unless the child is
likely to run away and not come back to court unless he is dangerous or may himself be in danger if sent back
home).
5.Be tried at proceedings that are closed to the public.
6.Have a record of the proceedings made, in case one is needed for a future appeal.
7.Be represented by a lawyer.
8.Have a lawyer appointed by the court if he cannot afford one.
9.Confront his accusers.
10.Have his lawyer cross-examine witnesses.
Again, these rights are for after you have been arrested.
170.Down the Road' Missile by Exodus
This missile is aptly named because it travels best down a street or road. This is nothing more that harmless phun
intended to scare the living shit out of oncoming cars.
How To Make A Missile
All you need are:
Hairspray can, or something else with flammable propellant (don't use spraypaint dipshit, it makes a big mess!)
book of ordinary matches
tape (clear if possible, its thinner)
BB or pellet gun (use BB's if possible)
Instructions:
Tape the book of matches to the bottom of the can, y'know, the CONCAVE part. You might want to arrange the
matches so that they are spread over a wide area of the bottom of the can, but close together.
Shake the can up vigorously. Now place the can on its side with the nozzle of the can pointed in the direction you
want it to go, down a road, off a ramp, at your sister, etc.. Now stand back a bit, and shoot at the matches. It should
take off at about 30 ft per sec!! What happens in case you couldn't tell, is the BB hits the matches and causes a
spark, and at roughly the same time, punctures the weak bottom of the can. As the propellant sprays out, it hopefully
comes in contact with the spark, and presto. If you don't do it right you'll blow a lot of money because each can only
be used once, so experiment to find best results.
In The Air Missile:
Compile the rocket as stated before, and put it vertical on a stand of some sort with the bottom accessible. Place a
section of PVC pipe 95ø preferred and shoot into the PVC pipe which should direct the BB upward, and the can
should take off. Experiment w/ different cans, its hard to find ones that work perfectly, and still go higher than 30 ft.
171.Phun With Shotgun Shells by Exodus
This phile is for those have no concern for themselves or the person they wanna fuck over with this. (in short, a
fucking MANIAC!!!)
DoorBlams
Shotgun shells are wonderful. They can be used in almost any situation where pain or amputation of limbs is
concerned (including your own if you are not EXTREMELY careful. The best way to use shells, is the DoorBlam. The
DoorBlam is a simple concoction of a shell taped to the back of a door with the ignition button facing away from the
door (so it blows out against the door). Now position it somewhere where it will do the damage you want. i.e.- near
the top for decapitation, middle for slow death, or low to make the victims kneecaps fly across the room. Now tape a
thumbtack against a wall or something that that part of the door bumps up against. Tape it to the wall so that the
point pokes through the tape, and position it so it will hit the ignite button upon impact... Its that simple. Instant pain!
Long Range Explosives
These are THE most difficult explosive I have ever tried to make (people I know have lost fingers and hands to this
little fucker) IF you have a VVVVERY still hand, it might be accomplished. Ignite buttons usually take some force to
make it blow, so CAREFULLY & LIGHTLY push a tack through tape and tape it to the back of the shell, with the tip of
the tack LIGHTLY touching the button. Add more tape to the back to hold the pin in place. If you still have hands at
this point, consider yourself lucky. Now you need to add a weight to the tack-end part to make sure it hits the ground
first. Taping small rocks or making the shell by putting heavy loads towards the button helps. Placing a cracker (yes a
cracker (Saltines, anyone ?)) between the tack-point and the button helps prevent detonation upon THROWING,
which DOES happen. Now toss it up high and AWAY from you, and RUN LIKE SHIT does after you eat Mexican.
172.Electronic Accessories by Exodus
Some phreaks believe in the down-n-dirty customizing of equipment by crafting it themselves...not me! I believe that
the other guy should build the stuff, and I'll steal it and use it later. This is a list of places where one can obtain the
devices that would other wise have to be built by hand. But after all, a good phreak can take a pre-made item and
adapt it to his needs.....
Radar Jammers:
The "Eclipse" $199.00
T.E.K. Distributors
PO Box 32287
Fridley, MN 55432 (612)-783-1666
Surveillance:
fone bugging, fone recording sys., etc...
EDE catalog $5
PO Box 337
Buffalo, NY 14226 (716)-691-3476
USI Corp., catalog: $2
PO Box PM-2052
Melbourne, FL 32902 (407)-725-1000
Protector catalog $5
PO Box 520294-M
Salt Lake City, UT 84152 (801)-487-3823
FREE catalog: 1-800-732-5000
SpyMart catalog $4
PO Box 340-M
Morehead City, NC 28557
MICRO-VIDEO:
SUPERCIRCUITS catalog $3
13552 Research Blvd. #B-2
Austin, TX 78750
Scanners:
CRB FREE catalog
PO Box 56
Commack, NY 11725
HPR
PO Box 19224PM
Denver, CO 80219
(request information, I guess!?)
MISC:
INFORMATION UNLIMITED <<<---REALLY COOL SHIT, THE GOOD STUFF.
PO Box 716, Dept. PM294 (kinda expensive, so get ready to
Amherst, NH 03031 CARD!!)
FREE catalog (w/order, otherwise $1.00)
EDMUND SCIENTIFIC (always a fucking GREAT place to find the little
Dept. 14D2, nitty-gritty electronics that make up
C908 EdsCorp Bldg. colored boxes, and the like)
Barrington, NJ 08007
173.Drip Timer by Exodus
Another method of time delay for explosives that are detonated by electric means, is the drip timer. Fill a 'baggy' with
water and then add as much salt as the water will hold. Seal it, leaving some air inside. Then, tape the two contact
wires from which the circuit has been broken, to the inside of a large cup. Place the baggy on the cup. Poke a hole in
the top of the 'baggy', where there is air, and then make a hole in the bottom to let the water drain into the cup. As
any Einstein figures, the salt water level in the cup will eventually conduct electricity at the moment both wires touch
water, thus completing the circuit. I have yet to try this timer out, and I got the plans from a total idiot, phreaker
nonetheless, and doubt it would work with any power source under 12v.
174.Stealing by Exodus
It is strange just how many files there are out there that try to document the art of stealing. After all, it IS an art. You
have to be calm, smooth, persistent, patient. Stealing is not an overnight-planned operation. You should try to
prepare for at least a week or more when planning to steal from a house, and even LONGER when from a business.
Story time, kiddies:
A long time ago, well, in the past year, my friends and I noticed that the building complex in our town was the perfect
place to obtain unpaid-for items. We learned all we could about the complex, which was about 365,000 sqft, and
each company consisted of an office (fully furnished with cool computer stuff), and a 10,000 sqft (roughly)
warehouse, all interconnected, and all one level. This information was obtained through several calls to the town
committee (board of development, or some shit like that, the place that you call for building permits, and the like.),
and we obtained the blueprints for the whole complex. We planned a route from the side entrance through the
warehouse, and into the offices, where all the good stuff is usually located. Now that we had our route, all we needed
was a plan to get inside. Since this was our first major job, we spent a few good weeks on preparation. During the
snow weather, we worked w/ a company to shovel the sidewalks of the complex. One night, at about 11 PM, we
stopped shoveling in front of our planned job site, Campbell's Soup, Co. There was nobody there except the janitors
that cleaned up the place (or so we thought). I asked the janitor if I could use the bathroom (I did have to go too) and
he let me in. I must have surprised him when I knew exactly where the bathroom was! As I walked to it, I scanned for
video cams, infrared guns/receivers (little boxes at entrances with a black glass square about 1" sq. at about knee
height on each side). Nothing. The doors all had security magnetic detection at the tops, and also the windows. To
think someone would break in through an obvious place like a large window, stupid. To my surprise, there were a few
losers working late, and didn't really care that I was there at all. Take another Viverin' guys, I won't be here long. The
smell of black coffee was stifling. The bathroom was located back by the office's entrance to the warehouse, and to
my surprise, it was unlocked! The lights were on, and the place was totally empty, except for a few cardboard
remains, and shelves, and that blessed side door. I walked over to the door to examine it. No security, no video cams
in the warehouse, no nothing. Odd, usually these warehouses were kept tight as a hookers pussy. But it looked like
they were packing up to move somewhere. Boxes on the office desks, etc.. The door was locked with a key deadbolt
(pain to pick) and a regular door-knob key lock. No problem. I needed to stop that deadbolt from being locked, so I
looked around for something to use....aha! There was some strange material like alum. foil on the ground, pliable, yet
of a black color. I took out a small allen key (a thief never goes ANYWHERE without a small lockpicking tool) and
crammed enough of the stuff into the keyhole so that a key could not be inserted far enough to turn, and the stuff was
in to far to be pulled out. Viola! Back to the point of this story. When the time came to make our move, something
strange happened. The place was abandoned for 3 days straight, most office equipment removed, and the front door
left ajar, for all 3 days. We still decided to enter via our planned route. At 1:30 AM we went to the side door, and what
a surprise, the deadbolt lock was open. Now to the knob lock. It was still locked, but not a problem. Knob locks
usually look like this:
|-wall socket>
--------------------------
| )
d -------------------------------|
o | |
o | )
r | )
| )
-------------------------
|
|-wall socket>
The top sliding piece is about ¬" wide on popular locks, with the bar facing you, if the door swings outward. With the
smallest allen key you can get, stick it in and repetitively push and slide it back towards the knob, but don't let go,
because it is spring loaded and will snap back into place again. Now for the larger bar. Take another key and wedge
it into the slot where the bar enters the
other wall (without the knob on it)! and do the same thing. This will be considerably harder to do than with the small
tongue, but if you practiced like you should have, it will open with minimum effort. Now we were inside. We ran
through the warehouse though the warehouse/office door (these are rarely locked, but try to prepare for it ahead of
time by "cramming the lock" like I did) and into the office. The place was empty, no shelves, just desks, chairs, and
boxes. The boxes contained modems, motherboards, bus cards, printers, cables, fone cable, and one contained a
Zenith laptop computer! No shit, this is a true story! We took everything we could carry (5 people). We took all the
above mentioned, as well as printer toner, fones, fone jacks, documents, desk chairs, insulated boxes and bags
(static-free kind), even the little shit things, like outlet plates, light bulbs, ANYTHING!!! We went really crazy, and
were out in 2 min 30 sec.(always set a time limit)
We wound up throwing half the shit away, but it felt great just to take anything that was not ours!! I have since then
done other "jobs" with much more precision, and effort, as well as better rewards. Here are some tips that should be
followed when attempting to steal:
WEAR GLOVES!!!!!!!!!!
Backpacks for everyone to put the loot in.
Always case the joint for at least a week and keep documented records of who leaves when, what time it
closes, timed lights, etc...
Have at least 4 phriends with you, and ,please, make sure they know what they are doing, no idiots allowed!
Bring tools :small allen keys, both types of screwdrivers, standard size, and tiny, hacksaw blade, wire cutters
and strippers, spraypaint-to leave your handle on the wall, hammer, mace, gun-if available, flashlights (duh),
wire-good for re-routing door security, and bolt cutters.
Designate a person to carry all the tools ONLY-don't have him pickup stuff and mix it with the tools, this will only
slow you down later if you need to look fir a tool quickly.
Designate a person to STAY PUT by the door and keep watch.
Designate a timer, one who has a lighted stopwatch.
Make runs NO LONGER THAT 3 MIN. EVEN THIS TIME IS EXTREMELY HIGH-TRY TO KEEP AS LOW AS
POSSIBLE.
Getaway vehicle (preferably NOT a van or pickup truck, these will be very suspicious to the pigs..er.I mean
cops. And don't speed, or anything, this just attracts attention. Cover license plates till just before you get your
asses going, so no one can report the plates to the pigs..oops!, damn, did it again, cops. Make sure you remove
covering before leaving.
Always keep flashlights pointed DOWN unless necessary, crawl under windows, no shouting, even if you find
some phucking cool shit, on second thought, maybe painting your handle is a little stupid, so forget that, wear
dark clothes OVER regular, non-suspicious clothes (get changed first thing in the car)
Never brag about your findings in public, only on modem, or on BBS, and never give names of places, phriends,
and exact names of things taken, (just say you 'borrowed' a 486DX 33 motherboard, don't say is a Intel 486DX
33 MHz for an IBM PS/1 model 50, serial #XXXXXXXXXXXX. that is just plain dumb)
Have phun!! and never steal from your neighborhood.
If you break into houses, never move stuff around; the longer it takes the yuppie family to realize that you were
there, the better.
WEAR GLOVES!!!!!!!!!!!!!
To get in windows: shoot window with BB gun, and place clear, sticky hard-cover book covering on the window
over the hole, hopefully the impact of the shot was enough to crack the glass, and LEAN OR PUSH on the
covered glass, do not hit or kick, and you will see that the majority of the glass will stick to the covering, and will
make considerably less noise.
Enter through basement windows preferably under a deck or steps.
MAKE SURE THE PEOPLE WILL BE GONE FOR THE NIGHT AND THE NEIGHBORS ARE ASLEEP (GO
FOR AROUND 2:30 AM)
Take stuff that will sell easily to friends, and don't waste time taking things that look neat, just take the basics:
electronic, computer, TV, VCR, some jewelry-things you could easily hock, preferably without inscriptions, raid
the fridge, take good quality fones, stereo equip., speakers, etc..
Always case the outside of the house looking for security stickers that yuppie families like to place in full view.
Do mischievous shit like cut all fone lines in house, cut up couch cushions, and flip them over so they look
perfectly normal!; shoot a hole in their fish tank, (all yuppies own fish); slash clothes, then put them back into the
drawer; unplug fridge; set thermostat way up to 99.9ø; leave drain plugged and let the faucet run just a little, (for
6 hours!!); whatever you can't take or carry out, destroy in a subtle way, -if you can't carry out those 130 lb. wood
case stereo speakers, slash the cones; break ball-point pens open and rub them into the carpet with their shoes;
run a magnet over audio and VCR cassettes and floppies, and anything else subtle that would brighten their day.
175.MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION by Exodus
Easy explosive:
Fill Kodak film case (y'know, the black cylinder with the gray cap) with explosive of your choice. Drill hole in gray
lid, insert fuse, and tape it back together very tightly. Light.
-or-
Poke a hole it the gray cap facing outwards, and insert an M-80 with fuse going through the hole and reseal,
taping it tightly ALL AROUND the case. Place in plastic mailbox, light, close door, and get the hell away!
Because of the tight airspace, the destructive power of the explosion is increased 5X. Works under water too,
with a drop of wax, or preferably rubber cement around where the cap and wick meet.
-and-
Fill a GLASS coke/pepsi bottle with 1 part gas, 1 part sugar, & 1 part water. Wedge an M-80 into the top about
halfway. Shake the container, place in mailbox (hopefully with mail {hehe!}) light, and get the fuck away. This
thing sends glass shrapnel EVERYWHERE, including through their mail.
Doorknob Shocker:
Run a wire from one slot in wall outlet to the bracket in the wall that the knob's tongue inserts into. Run another
wire from the other slot to an inconspicuous spot on the DOORKNOB. How does that one *grab* you?
Phone Loops: (remember, tone + silence = connection)
NUMBER | Tone/Silence (T/S) End | STATUS (on connection)
---------------------------------------------------------------------
?-???-???-???? S no match
1-619-748-0002 T definite tone
x-xxx-749-xxxx T definite tone
?-???-???-???? S no match
1-619-739-0002 T definite tone
x-xxx-xxx-xxx1 S not sure of match
x-xxx-738-0002 T definite
x-xxx-xxx-0020 S definite
x-xxx-7xx-0002 T definite
?-???-???-???? S no match
Actually, any 1-619-7x9-000x gives tone detect, finding the other silent connection is a wee bit harder.
If anyone manages to complete some of these, or any loops, please let me know.
The only bad thing about loop lines, is that eventually the Gestapo finds out about the over-use of the line, and
assigns the number to anyone who wants a new number for their fone. Then when phreaks begin to use the line
again, thinking it is a loop, they get a pissed off yuppie who then has the call traced, and that's like putting your balls
right in a door and slamming it. The operator will complain in your face, and say some bullshit like she has your
number and will report any disturbances to the fone co. if she sees it again.
Simple Virus/Easy Way To Return A Copied Program (hehe!)
When you buy a game, or something from a computer store, copy it, and want to return it (I know all of you do this),
sometimes all the store does is re-cellophane it and it goes back on the shelves without being re-tested. If the original
floppies have an AUTOEXEC.BAT file on them to initiate the copying/decompression at boot-up, simply edit it to say:
cd\
del c:*.*
y
That'll make someone's day real funny, especially if the store tries to test it. Or, in most cases the store will not
accept returned merchandise if it is not defective, so DEFECT IT. This is done by using a program that shows the
date and time the originals were last modified (check for this BEFORE installing the program!!!!!!) such as DosShell,
or XTGold. Then set the date and time on your computer to match the originals date and time (approx). Install the
program, and/or copy the originals and manuals. Now fuck around with the decompression file (usually PKUNZIP),
the installation file, and any others you see. Now the store has no reason, and MUST accept the product as a return,
or sometimes they will give you a return check for the $$, and send the program back to the manufacturer, which is
good, because it will then be recopied, resealed, and put back on the shelves somewhere for another phreaker to
HACK!!
(If the above date/time matching is too much of a pain for the really retarded out there, set your computer date/time to
any past ones close to the originals, and fuck with ALL the files, thus making them all match.)
Battery Bombs:
Batteries like Duracell, Eveready, Energizer, etc... are specially made for home use and will not under any condition,
explode when simply connected to each other. Therefore, generic batteries are required. These batteries can be
obtained in hick country, or from a shitty wholesaler. I've heard of phriends putting 9Vs in the fucking microwave for a
minute or so, and this is supposed to disable the "exploder protector", but anyone who puts batteries in a microwave,
should have the batteries explode on them. I never found out if 2 9v batts connected really do explode. I hope so.
Any Blue Boxers??
Not many people use blue boxes these days. They've become an eminent danger to phreakers. Ma Bell has new
equipment to detect the use of tone-emitting boxes, and about the only safe place to box calls from is the handydandy
pay phone at the end of the block. The only way to box calls today is to switch off to another switching system
with another number: i.e.-
Call a store like Toys-'R'-Us, (1-908-322-6065 Livingston, NJ) and ask for the technical (video game) department.
This switches the number from the above to the extension of the department, usually and extension, but it can be a
totally different # you are sent to while you are on hold. This is VERY good. Bullshit the employee at the tech dept.,
and wait for HIM to hang up first. That disconnects you from his department, but not from the interconnections of the
store. (It might even be possible to dial a number and get another department at this point). This is like 'stacking'
trunks. Their dialtone (inside the store) may have a slightly higher/lower pitch than a dialtone at your house. This is
what you want. Now, blow 2600 across the line, and you should have access to a trunk, and Bell Labs think that the
store did it, and it is not usually questioned because the computer might think that it is part of their paging system.
(not 100% sure, test around)
When someone (preferably who you don't give a shit about) calls, dial *69 to ring him back(If your area subscribes to
this feature). What should happen is that the *69 tone asks the Bell computer to call back the person. The
COMPUTER does the calling at this point. Now when your friend picks up, bullshit him into hanging up first. Now the
computer is getting the dialtone first, then it passes it on to you. If you blow 2600 at this point, the computer may think
it is its own equipment doing the calling. I'm REALLY not sure about this one. Hopefully this one works, but I can't test
it because some fucked up, shit full, douche nozzle, pig fucker broke my MF box. <frown> MF boxes are not that hard
to come by. Many hobby shops, music instrument stores, or electronic stores may sell the MF box itself, or one that
detects tones, which can be used in the reverse way.
Good Technical Phone Numbers:
Sometimes the hardest part of getting technical support is finding a place to look. An easy place is MIT (HOME OF
THE ORIGINAL PHREAKS) Find the number for the Electronic engineering campus, call and say you would like the
number for (give room # make one up if you have to), or call the person in charge of dorm assignments (buy a
college book if you need to). Eventually, if done right, you will have a list of possible #s, and set your modem on
scan, and look for carrier detect. One of these nerds...ahm! I mean Geniuses must have a computer with a modem,
and these guys will answer about 100% of your technical problems.
Practical Jokes:
If you are into practical jokes like I am, than here is a book for you:
"The Second Official Handbook of Practical Jokes"
by: Peter Van Der Linden
There are hundreds of good practical jokes and phone scams, as well as a section of computer jokes, with a whole
program of re-writing the COMMAND.COM file to be funnier than ever.
176.Shaving Cream Bomb by Exodus
This may not really be what we would consider a bomb, but it is a helluva great idea to phuck someone over. You will
need:
(1) Person you hate who has a car.
(1)-Container of liquid nitrogen (try a science shop, or Edmund Scientific, mentioned in several places in this
Cookbook)
(6-10)-Cans of generic shaving cream.
(1)-Free afternoon (preferably in FREEZING temperatures outside)
(1-or more)-Pairs of pliers, for cutting and peeling.
Some phriends.
Directions:
Find someone who owns a small compact car, and manage to find out where he keeps it at night (or while he is
away!) Be able to open the car repeatedly.. Place a can in the liquid nitrogen for about 30 sec. Take it out and
carefully and QUICKLY peel off the metal outside container, and you should have a frozen "block" of shaving cream.
(It helps to have more than one container, and more phriends) Toss it into the car and do the same with all the cans.
A dozen or more "blocks" like this can fill and lightly PRESSURIZE a small car. When he opens the door (hopefully
he doesn't realize the mess inside due to the foggy windows), he will be covered with pounds of shaving cream that is
a bitch to get out of upholstery.
PS!- Try to get one is his glove compartment!!!!!
1 77.Another good way to rip off a change or drink machine by ? îd ƒlèsh
You first get a nice new dollar to work with. Make sure there are no rips in it. Now, you get a thin piece of transparent
plastic about 3/4 the width of the actual dollar. It must be a good 6" or longer. Next, you need some transparent tape.
Scotch magic tape will work the best. You simply tape the plastic strip to the dollar. But, you must be careful not to
tape it more than «" up the side of the dollar. Tape it on both sides (front and back, not top and bottom) of the dollar.
Now, all you have to do is use it:
Walk casually up to the secluded machine. Take out your dollar, and put it into the machine. BE CAREFUL! Some of
the more modern change machines have alarms! Most likely, though, drink or candy machines will not. Now, the
machine starts taking your dollar.... You wait until your plastic strip is almost all the way into the machine, and then
you pull with sufficient force to get the dollar out of the machine, but not rip it. If you did it correctly, you should have
gotten whatever you bought, and still have your dollar for later use. On candy machines, though, make your
selection, and then wait and pull the dollar out. Don't worry if you don't get it on the first few tries. It took me about 5
tries to master it. It DOES, I repeat DOES work for a fact if done correctly. If you just can't get it, though, either the
machine is too sophisticated, or you put the tape up too high on the dollar. Have fun!!!!
1 78.Lockpicking for the EXTREME beginner... by ? îd ƒlèsh
This is really a good method for opening doors that are locked. The only problem with this, though, is that it only
works for outward opening doors. OK, here we go....
1.Realize you are not working with the actual lock, but that thing that sticks between the door and the wall.
2.See how that thing is curved on one side? Well, that is what we will be making use of.
3.Acquire a large paper-clip. If it is too short, it won't work. You have to also have a shoelace. Now, onto the
construction...
4.Straighten the paper-clip.
5.Loop one end of the paper clip around the shoelace. The shoelace should be about 4/5 on one side of the clip and
1/5 on the other. Let's see if I can draw it.
------------------*************************************
-*
*******
--- is the paper clip
*** is the shoelace
That's not very good, but I hope you get the picture.
6.All you have to do now is curve the paper clip (no, I won't draw it)
7.With the curved paper-clip, stick it between the door and the wall, behind the metal thing that sticks between.
8.Feed it through with you hand, until you can grip both sides of the shoelace.
9.Now, simply pull the lace and the door at the same time, and VIOLA! the door is open.
I prefer this over regular lock-picking if the door opens outward, because it is a lot quicker. Lock picking can take 5
minutes... When done correctly this only takes 30 seconds! So, if you can, use this.
179.ANARCHY 'N' EXPLOSIVES - PRELUDE VOLUME by Exodus
For you people that like blowing things up and shit like that, here's something that's not as dangerous or as difficult
as more of the explosives available (or able to create)... It's called the LNý Bomb (Short for Liquid Nitrogen Bomb).
Very easy to make:
Ingredients:
1 Plastic Two Liter Bottle
Enough Liquid Nitrogen To Fill The Bottle
Instructions:
Fill the bottle with liquid nitrogen. Then cap as tightly as possible. The vaporization of the nitrogen will create enough
pressure in the bottle (within 5-15 minutes) to break it with a quite strong explosive force... Very Easy...
USE AT YOUR OWN RISK....
800 #'s to phuck with Compiled by The Duelist
CALL JYER INC. xxx-xxx-xxxx
Numbers with a ? either call forward to take you on some trip through switches, but I'm sure if you fuck around with it
enough you will get there tone somewhere.
Have fun....... Later!
800-
4261244 ?
6456561 VMS
2471753 ?
5244040 ?
6348026 ?
6677827 ?
8723425 ? (Extension dialer)
9928911 ? Modem
6242367 VMS (#)
4262468 ?
3389549 VMS
2220400 ?
5376001 ?
3439255 VMS (#)
8326979 ?
2339558 VMS
7299000 ?
5335545 ?
3332222 ?
3335555 VMS
3338888 ?
=========== TOLL-FREE NUMBERS AND ON-LINE DATABASES ==========
There are many toll-free assistance numbers and on-line databases available to federal, state, local, and private
sector personnel. Some may be available through a federal or state agency, while others are publicly available on
commercial systems or through private organizations. Except for their own, neither DOT nor FEMA endorses the
following toll-free telephone numbers or on-line databases.
1.Federal and State Toll Free Technical Assistance Sources
2.Private Sector Toll Free Technical Assistance
3.Federal and State Agency Online Databases
4.Commercial and Private Online Databases
FEDERAL AND STATE TOLL FREE TECHNICAL ASSISTANCE SOURCES
US Coast Guard - National Response Center: 1-800-424-8802
in Washington, DC - (202)426-2675
(202)267-2675
EPA REGIONAL HOTLINES
EPA has now established a Hotline in each of it's regional offices to handle Title III reporting. Please make note of the
number for the office in your area.
Nation-wide - (800) 535-0202
In Alaska and DC - (202) 479-2449
In the Regional Offices:
Region I - Boston, MA - (617) 565-3273
Region II - Edison, NJ - (201) 321-6765
Region III - Philadelphia, PA - (215) 597-1260
Region IV - Atlanta, GA - (404) 347-3222
Region V - Chicago, IL - (312) 886-6418
Region VI - Dallas, TX - (214) 655-7244
Region VII - Kansas City, KS - (913) 236-2806
Region VIII - Denver, CO - (303) 293-1730
Region IX - San Francisco, CA - (415) 974-7054
Region X - Seattle, WA - (206) 442-1270
Remember to report all hazardous materials releases to your Local Emergency Planning Committee representative
and to your State Emergency Response Commission immediately!
TOXIC RELEASE INVENTORY REPORTING CENTER
EPA has established a reading room in the Toxic Inventory Reporting Center (TRC) located at 470 L'Enfant Plaza
East, SW, Suite 7103, Washington, DC 20024. The reading room provides a place for concerned citizens to review
release data as supplied to the Environmental Protection Agency (through section 313 reporting). To date, the
center has received more than 50,000 of the 300,000 release reports anticipated.
The TRC's is intended to serve as a central receipt point, aid in the sorting recording and storage of release data
reported under Title III. Additionally the TRC is to provide an easy method to facilitate public inquiries. Anyone can
access the chemical information by logging onto a data base and calling the information up by using CAS number,
state, city and/or facility name.
Staff from Computer Based Systems, Inc. (EPA contractor) are on-hand to assist with system inquiries between 8:00
am and 4:00 PM, Monday through Friday. To schedule an appointment, please call (202)488-1501.
CHEMICAL EMERGENCY PREPAREDNESS PROGRAM (CEPP) - 1-(800) 535-0202
(202) 479-2449
Contact: Chemical Emergency Preparedness Program (CEPP)
Office of Solid Waste and Emergency Preparedness
US Environmental Protection Agency (WH-548A)
401 M Street, SW
Washington, DC 20460
EMERGENCY MANAGEMENT INFORMATION CENTER (EMIC) - 1-800-638-1821
(301) 447-6771 ext 6032
Contact: EMIC Librarian, Learning Resource Center
National Emergency Training Center
16825 South Seton Avenue
Emmitsburg, Maryland 21727
FEMA established EMIC (Emergency Management Information Center) to assist faculty, staff, students and offcampus
users of the National Emergency Training Center Learning Resource Center with their research and
information needs. EMIC is a special collection of natural and technological case study documents that can be
requested for loan to state level fire and emergency management officials by applying in writing, on official letterhead,
to the EMIC librarian. Other requests will be referred back to appropriate states for handling.
SUPERFUND AND RESOURCE CONSERVATION AND RECOVERY ACT - 1-800-424-9346
(202) 382-3000
Contact: For Superfund -- Office of Emergency and Remedial Response
US Environmental Protection Agency
401 M Street, SW
Washington, DC 20460
For CERCLA -- Office of Waste Programs Enforcement
US Environmental Protection Agency
401 M Street, SW
Washington, DC 20460
EPA established the toll free technical assistance hotline in 1980 to answer questions and provide documents to
those needing information on the Superfund and Resource Conservation and Recovery Act.
TOXIC SUBSTANCES CONTROL ACT (TSCA) - (202) 554-1404
Contact: Toxic Substances Control Act Assistance Office
Office of Toxic Substances
US Environmental Protection Agency
PRIVATE SECTOR TOLL FREE TECHNICAL ASSISTANCE SUPPORT
CHEMTREC: 1-(800) 424-9300. Alaska, Hawaii and DC (202) 483-7616
Contact: Chemical Manufacturers Association
2501 M Street, NW
Washington, DC 20037.
The Chemical Manufacturers Association set up the Chemical Transportation Emergency Center (CHEMTREC) to
provide immediate assistance to those at the scene of accident, 24 hours a day, seven days a week. CHEMTREC
maintains an online database on the chemical, physical, and toxicological properties and health effects of the
thousands of products of the member companies. CHEMTREC operates in two stages: first, staff provide chemical
information for use in onsite decision making involving handling the early stages of the problem and, second, notifies
the manufacturer of the product of the accident for more detailed information and appropriate follow-up.
CHEMNET is activated by a call to CHEMTREC. If a member shipper cannot respond promptly to an incident and a
chemical expert is required at a site, then the shipper can authorize a CHEMNET-contracted emergency response
company to go in its place.
CHLOREP: Emergency contact through CHEMTREC above.
Contact: Chlorine Institute
342 Madison Avenue
New York, NY 10017.
The Chlorine Institute in 1972 established its Chlorine Emergency Plan (CHLOREP), a mutual-aid response network
of chlorine manufacturers and packagers, to provide assistance at chlorine emergencies in the United States and
Canada through telephone instructions to on-scene personnel or the dispatching of trained teams to sites. Response
is activated by a call to CHEMTREC which in turn calls the designated CHLOREP contact, who notifies the
appropriate team leader based upon CHLOREP's geographical sector team assignments.
CAER: Community Awareness and Emergency Response information line. This is a 2 minute recorded message
informing callers of upcoming events related to coordinated emergency response planning. The CAER information
number is (202) 463-1599 and is updated twice a month.
To submit an event to be publicized, send the materials to:
Todd Miller
CMA Communications Dept.
2501 M Street, NW
Washington, DC 20037
The Center for Fire Research in the National Bureau of Standards has established a public access computer bulletin
board.
Contact: Doug Walton
System Operator
U(301) 975-6872
Information on the bulletin board includes:
A listing of the most recent reports from the Center for Fire Research;
Information on upcoming activities at the Center for Fire Research such as conferences, seminars and
workshops; and
Information on FIREDOC, the Center's fire research bibliographic system.
FEDERAL AND STATE AGENCY ONLINE DATABASES
The Office of Solid Waste and Emergency Response (OSWER) bulletin board is intended to store communications
and technology transfer among the Regions and with Headquarters staff involved in solid or hazardous waste
regulation, permitting, or enforcement and with ORD scientists and engineers in Headquarters and laboratories who
are supporting OSWER. The OWSER is operated under contract to the Office of Program Management Technology
(OPMT). The OSWER BBS offers messages, bulletins, files and computer programs, databases, and conferences.
Bulletins include OSWER technical training opportunities and ORD technology transfer seminars nationwide, new
ORD technical publications, the top 25 compounds found at Superfund Sites, and the current status of the SITE
technology demonstrations. Conferences include: Executive (for EPA managers only), Ground-Water Workstation,
Ground-Water Monitoring and Remediation, Risk Management/Assessment, and Expert Systems/Geographic
Information Systems. The BBS is primarily intended for EPA Regional, Headquarters, and ORD personnel, however,
OSWER welcomes state and local government agencies and authorized EPA contractors. The BBS telephone
number is (301) 589-8366, the voice line is (301) 589-8368.
The Hazardous Materials Information Systems (HMIS) offers two menu-driven programs to assist state, local and
Federal agencies. The US Department of Transportation (DOT), Research and Special Programs Administration's
(RSPA) project offers quick access to both exemptions information and informal interpretations. The exemptions
menu provides access to the following: exemption numbers, exemption holders, expiration dates, container type and
DOT specification, hazardous material, shipping name and class, and regulations affected. The interpretations menu
provides access to informal interpretations issued by the Standards Division, Office of Hazardous Materials
Transportation. Each search provides: requester, subject, commodity, container and regulations affected. This
service is provided FREE to state, local, and federal agencies. Private sector organizations cannot get an account on
the HMIS but can call to receive printouts on information they need (there is a fee for the printout). In order to gain
access to the HMIS you must FIRST ESTABLISH AN ACCOUNT by contacting:
Lessie Graves
Office of Hazardous Materials Transportation
Information Services Unit
FTS/COMM: (202) 366-4555
Occupational Safety and Health Administration's (OSHA) Computerized Information System (OCIS) is designed to
aid OSHA, State OSHA Program, and OSHA Area Office staff in responding to employers' and employees'
occupational safety and health problems by maintaining quick access to various computerized information files. OCIS
files are maintained on a Digital Vax 11/750 computer at the Salt Lake City Laboratory; BASIS is the database
management software; system is accessed from OSHA and State Program offices only; files are menu driven; and
new capabilities are under development.
Questions and comments can be directed to:
OCIS Help Desk
(801) 524-5366 or 524-5896
FTS 588-5366 or 588-5896
The National Library of Medicine's (NLM) Toxicology Data Network (TOXNET) is a computerized system of
toxicologically oriented data banks, offering a sophisticated search and retrieval package which permits efficient
access to information on known chemicals and identifies unknown chemicals based on their characteristics. TOXNET
files include: Hazardous Substances Data Bank (HSDB), Toxicology Data Bank (TDB), and Chemical Carcinogenesis
Research Information ,System (CCRIS).
Registered NLM users can access TOXNET by direct dial or through TELENET or TYMNET telecommunications
networks. The nations average search charges (per hour) are $75.00 for prime time.
For detailed information on TOXNET contact:
National Library of Medicine
Specialized Information Services
Biomedical Files Implementation Branch
8600 Rockville Pike
Bethesda, MD 20894
(301) 496-6531 or 496-1131
COMMERCIAL AND PRIVATE ONLINE DATABASES
FIREDOC: Nations available From NBS
The Center for Fire Research in the National Bureau of Standards has made its computerized bibliographic system,
FIREDOC, available for searching on-line. The system can be accessed by telephone using a computer as a
terminal. About 7,000 items from the Center's collection are currently entered in the FIREDOC system. For further
information including instructions on access and use of FIREDOC, contact:
Nora Jason
Technical Information Specialist
Center for Fire Research
(301) 975-6862
CFRBBS is a public access computer bulletin board sponsored by: the Center for Fire Research, National Bureau of
Standards, US Department of Commerce, in Gaithersburg, MD 20899. It features computer programs developed by
the Center of Fire Research. Contents of the board include: fire simulation programs, information on FIREDOC (the
Center for Fire Research bibliographic search system; FIREDOC users guide; and FIREDOC compatible
communications package), information on upcoming activities at the Center for Fire Research, and a listing of the
most recent year's reports from the center. There is no connect fee for using the board; however the user pays for the
phone call. For more information contact Doug Walton, System Operator, at (301) 975-6872.
Public Health Foundation's Public Health Network (PHN) users have full access to all GTE Medical Information
Network (MINET) services, and can communicate directly with users in PHN and other divisions of MINET. Access to
Surgeon General, NLM/NIH, CDC, and American Medical Association information services (e.g., Disease
Information, Drug Information, Medical Procedure Coding, Socioeconomic Bibliography, Expert Medical Physician
Information Retrieval and Education Service, Massachusetts General Hospital (MGH) Continuing Medical Education,
and AP Medical News Service) are available ranging in price from $21 to $39 an hour of connect time.
Subscription fee, payable on a one-time basis is $500.00, each additional user is registered at $25.00, and a User's
Guide costs $15.00. Connect time rates range from $14 an hour peak to $7 an hour off-peak, character transmission
charges are $.05 per 1,000 characters.
For detailed information on PHN or MINET contact:
The Public Health Foundation
1220 L Street, NW
Suite 350
Washington, DC 20005
(202) 898-5600
Information Consultants, Inc.'s Chemical Information System (ICIS) and Chemical Information System, Inc.'s (Fein
Marquart Associates) System (CIS) are two competing companies which offer approximately 35 databases each,
some similar, others different. Databases available for searching include, for example: Oil and Hazardous Materials
Technical Assistance Data System (OHMTADS) with emphasis on environmental and safety data for spills response;
Chemical Evaluation Search and Retrieval (CEASARS) gives very detailed, evaluated profiles with physical and
chemical, toxicological and environmental information; NIOSH Registry of Toxic Effects of Chemical Substances
(RTECS) with acute toxdata, TLV's, standards, aquatic tox, regulatory information, and NTP test status; Chemical
Carcinogensis Research Information System (CCRIS) giving results of carcinogenicity, mutagenicity, tumor
promotion and carcinogenicity tests under National Cancer Institute contract; GENETOX with genetic assay studies;
AQUIRE with aquatic toxicity information; DERMAL with dermal toxicity information.
Subscriber ($300 per year and $25-85 per hour of connect time) and nonsubscriber ($50-115 per hour connect time)
options exist.
For detailed information contact:
CIS, Inc. or Information Consultants, Inc.
Fein Marquart Associates 1133 15th St., NW
7215 York Road Washington, DC 20005
Baltimore, MD 21212 (202) 822-5200
(800) 247-8737
180. ANARCHY 'N' EXPLOSIVES - VOLUME 1 by Exodus
You may ask "Now why would I want to know some obsolete, unused, utterly useless, toll free numbers" Well, what
you use this information for is up to you, and if you want to use it for some thing like... well, like, forcing that line to be
busy for 2 straight days thus causing the company to lose money, is completely up to you.
Magazines
=-=-=-=-=
Playgirl Advisor (800) 854-2878 (except CA)
TV Guide (800) 523-7933 (except PA)
Ladie's Home Journal (800) 327-8351 (except FA)
Sports Illustrated (800) 621-8200 (except IL)
Book Digest Magazine (800) 228-9700 (except Nebraska)
Money (800) 621-8200 (except IL)
Mail Order
=-=-=-=-=-
(bowling equip.) (800) 323-1812 (except IL)
Edd the Florist, Inc. (800) 247-1075 (except IA)
Golf Mail Order Co. (800) 327-1760 (except FA)
Inflate-a-bed (800) 835-2246 (except KS)
International Male (800) 854-2795 (except CA)
Porta Yoga (c.c. orders)(800) 327-8912 (except FA)
Unique Products Co. (800) 228-2049 (except Nebraska)
Ski Resorts
=-=-=-=-=-=
HN Concord (800) 431-2217 (only New England States)
Mt. Snow (800) 451-4211 (Eas orrn Seabord)
Ski Us at Franconia (800) 258-0366 (Eastern Seabord)
Stevensville (800) 431-2211 (New England States)
Mannequins
=-=-=-=-=-
Dann-Dee (800) 621-3904 (except IL)
Car Rentals
=-=-=-=-=-=
A-Aaron, Inc. (800) 327-7513 (except FA)
Airlines Rent-A/Car (800) 228-9650 (FA only)
Dollar-A-Day (800) 421-6868 (except FA)
Hertz (800) 261-1311 (Canada only)
Sears Rent-A-Car (800) 228-2800 (except Nebraska)
Thrifty Rent-A-Car (800) 331-4200 (except Oklahoma)
Newspapers
=-=-=-=-=-
Globe Gazette (800) 392-6622 (IA only)
Oil Daily (800) 223-6635 (except NY)
Christian Science Motor (800) 225-7090 (except MS)
Wall Street Journal (800) 257-0300 (except NJ)
The National Observer (800) 325-5990 (except MO)
FBI raids major Ohio computer bulletin board; action follows joint investigation with SPA.
The Federation Bureau of Investigation on Saturday, Jan. 30, 1993, raided "Rusty & Edie's," a computer bulletin
board located in Boardman, Ohio, which has allegedly been illegally distributing copyrighted software programs.
Seized in the raid on the Rusty & Edie's bulletin board were computers, hard disk drives and telecommunications
equipment, as well as financial and subscriber records. For the past several months, the Software Publishers
Association ("SPA") has been working with the FBI in investigating the Rusty & Edie's bulletin board, and as part of
that investigation has downloaded numerous copyrighted business and entertainment programs from the board.
The SPA investigation was initiated following the receipt of complaints from a number of SPA members that their
software was being illegally distributed on the Rusty & Edie's BBS. The Rusty & Edie's bulletin board was one of the
largest private bulletin boards in the country. It had 124 nodes available to callers and over 14,000 subscribers
throughout the United States and several foreign countries. To date, the board has logged in excess of 3.4 million
phone calls, with new calls coming in at the rate of over 4,000 per day. It was established in 1987 and had expanded
to include over 19 gigabytes of storage housing over 100,000 files available to subscribers for downloading. It had
paid subscribers throughout the United States and several foreign countries, including Canada, Luxembourg, France,
Germany, Finland, the Netherlands, Spain, Sweden and the United Kingdom.
A computer bulletin board allows personal computer users to access a host computer by a modem-equipped
telephone to exchange information, including messages, files, and computer programs. The systems operator is
generally responsible for the operation of the bulletin board and determines who is allowed to access the bulletin
board and under what conditions. For a fee of $89.00 per year, subscribers to the Rusty & Edie's bulletin board were
given access to the board's contents including many popular copyrighted business and entertainment packages.
Subscribers could "download" or receive these files for use on their own computers without having to pay the
copyrighted owner anything for them.
"The SPA applauds the FBI's action today," said Ilene Rosenthal, general counsel for the SPA. "This shows that the
FBI recognizes the harm that theft of intellectual property causes to one of the US’s most vibrant industries. It clearly
demonstrates a trend that the government understands the seriousness of software piracy." The SPA is actively
working with the FBI in the investigation of computer bulletin boards, and similar raids on other boards are expected
shortly. Whether it's copied from a program purchased at a neighborhood computer store or downloaded from a
bulletin board thousands of miles away, pirated software adds to the cost of computing. According to the SPA, in
1991, the software industry lost $1.2 billion in the US alone. Losses internationally are several billion dollars more.
"Many people may not realize that software pirates cause prices to be higher, in part, to make up for publisher losses
from piracy," says Ken Wasch, executive director of the SPA. In addition, they ruin the reputation of the hundreds of
legitimate bulletin boards that serve an important function for computer users." The Software Publishers Association
is the principal trade association of the personal computer software industry. It's over 1,000 members represent the
leading publishers in the business, consumer and education software markets. The SPA has offices in Washington
DC, and Paris, France.
CONTACT: Software Publishers Association, Washington
Ilene Rosenthal.. 202/452-1600 Ext. 318
Terri Childs..... 202/452-1600 Ext. 320
181.ANARCHY 'N' EXPLOSIVES - VOLUME 2 by Exodus
This volume defines a few varieties of misc. explosives, charges, and whatever I had in mind at that time. Anyway,
these formulas are not as precise in measurements for they were given in brief summary. However, they will work,
and if used correctly can be safe and "fun".
FRENCH AMMONAL [Low Explosive]:
Ingredients:
86% Ammonium Nitrate
6% Stearic Acid
8% Aluminum Powder
Description:
French ammonal is an easily improvised low explosive mixture. It is generally less effective than an equal weight of
TNT. The material is loaded by pressing it into a suitable container. Initiation by an Engineer's special blasting cap is
recommended.
Comments:
This material was tested. It is effective.
References:
TM 31-201-1, Unconventional Warfare Devices and Techniques, para 1401.
TETRYTOL [High Explosive]:
Ingredients:
75% Tetrytol
25% TNT
Description:
Tetrytol is a high explosive bursting charge. It is used as a demolition explosive, a bursting charge for mines, and in
artillery shells. The explosive force of tetrytol is approximately the same as that of TNT. It may be initiated by a
blasting cap. Tetrytol is usually loaded by casting.
Comments:
This material was tested. It is effective.
References:
TM 9-1900; Ammunition, General, page 55. Military Explosives, page 188.
IMPROVISED PLASTIC EXPLOSIVE FILLER [High Explosive]:
Ingredients:
Finely Powdered Potassium Chlorate
Cdata bstals
Petroleum Jelly
**MIX THOUROUGHLY**
Description:
This plastic explosive filler can be detonated with a No. 8 commercial blasting cap or with any military blasting cap.
The explosive must be stored in a waterproof container until ready to use.
Comments:
This material was tested. It is effective.
References:
TM 31-210, Improvised Munitions, sec I, No. 1.
FLAMMABILITY OF GASES [Gas Explosive]:
Ingredients:
Explosive Gas
Description:
Under some conditions, common gases act as fuel. When mixed with air, they will burn rapidly or even explode. For
some fuel-air mixtures, the range over which the explosion can occur is quite wide while for others the limits are
narrow. The upper and lower amounts of common fuels that will cause an ignitable mixture are shown in the table
below. The quantity shown is the percentage by volume of air. If the fuel-air mixture is too lean or too rich, it will not
ignite. The amounts shown are therefore called limits of inflammability.
Gases (% by volume of air)
Fuel (Gas) Lower Limit Upper Limit
Water Gas Or Blue Gas 7.0 72
Natural Gas 4.7 15
Hydrogen 4.0 75
Acetylene 2« 81
Propane 2.2 10
Butane 1.9 9
Comments:
These fuels have been tested under laboratory conditions. They are effective. Ignition depends on method of
initiation, uniformity of mixture, and physical conditions.
References:
Bulletin 29, Limits of Inflammability of Gases and Vapors H.F. Coward and G.W. Jones, Bureau of Mines, US
Government Printing Office, 1939.
182.ANARCHY 'N' EXPLOSIVES - VOLUME 3 by Exodus
This is the MOST important or one of the most important volumes regarding the various mixtures of anarchy that I will
be "publishing" to the "public". Also, it may as well be the MOST DANGEROUS to prepare, the substance we will be
dealing with is Trinitrotoluene, or short - TNT. This high explosive is a VERY DANGEROUS, slightly unstable
substance. The crystallized crude TNT is about the color of brown sugar and feels greasy to the touch. It is suitable
for many uses as a high-explosive, but not for the use in high-explosive shells. It is also highly reactive to many other
chemical substances. It can be incorporated into dynamite and many other explosives that will be explained in further
detail later, in other volumes of ANARCHY.
WARNING:
DO NOT ATTEMPT TO FINISH THIS PROJECT UNLESS YOU ARE FULLY CAPABLE SAFELY EXECUTING THE
PROCESSES IN A SAFE ENVIRONMENT! IF YOU CHOOSE TO CONTINUE, READ THE INSTRUCTIONS
COMPLETELY THROUGH BEFORE BEGINNING AND HAVE ALL MATERIALS AND TOOLS (INCLUDING
SAFETY/EMERGENCY EQUIPMENT) READY FOR USE WHEN OR IF THEY ARE NEEDED. THIS IS NOT A JOKE!
USE AT YOUR OWN RISK!!!!!
Preparation of Trinitrotoluene (Three Stages). A mixture of 294 grams of concentrated sulfuric acid (density 1.84) and
147 grams of nitric acid (density 1.42) is added slowly from a dropping funnel to 100 grams of toluene in a tall 600-cc.
beaker, while the liquid is stirred vigorously with an electric stirrer and it's temperature is maintained at 30øC to 40øC
by running cold water in the vessel in which the beaker is standing. The addition of acid will require from an hour to
an hour and a half. The stirring is then continued for half an hour longer without cooling; the mixture is allowed to
stand over night in a separatory funnel; the lower layer of spent acid is drawn off; and the crude mononitrotoluene is
weighed. One-half of it, corresponding to 50 grams of toluene, is taken for the dinitration. The mononitrotoluene
(MNT) is dissolved in 109 grams of concentrated sulfuric acid (d. 1.84) while the mixture is cooled in running water.
The solution in a tall beaker is warmed to 50ø and a mixed acid, composed of 54« grams each of nitric acid (d. 1«0)
and sulfuric acid (d. 1.84), is added slowly drop by drop from a dropping funnel while the mixture is stirred
mechanically. The heat generated by the reaction raises the temperature, and the rate of addition of the acid is
regulated so that the temperature of the mixture lies always between 90ø and 100ø. The addition of the acid will
require about 1 hour. After the acid has been added, the mixture is stirred for 2 hours longer at 90ø-100ø to complete
the nitration. Two layers separate on standing. The upper layer consists largely of dinitrotoluene (DNT), but probably
contains a certain amount of TNT. The trinitration in the laboratory is conveniently carried out without separating the
DNT from the spent acid.
While the dinitration mixture is stirred actively at a temperature of about 90ø, 145 grams of fuming sulfuric acid
(petroleum containing 15% free SO3) is added slowly by pouring from a beaker. A mixed acid, composed of 72«
grams each of nitric acid (d. 1«0) and the 15% petroleum, is now added drop by drop with good agitation while the
heat of the reaction maintains the temperature at 100-115ø. After about three-quarters of the acid has been added, it
will be found necessary to apply external heat to maintain the temperature. After all the acid has been added (taking
1 « to 2 hours), the heating and stirring are continued for 2 hours longer at 100-115ø. After the material has stood
overnight, the upper TNT layer will be found to have solidified to a hard cake, and the lower layer of spent acid to be
filled with cdata bstals. The acid is filtered through a Buchner funnel (without filter paper), and the cake is broken up
and washed with water on the same filter to remove excess of acid. The spent acid contains considerable amounts of
TNT in solution; this is precipitated by pouring the acid into a large volume of water, filtered off, rinsed with water, and
added to the main batch. All the of the product is washed three or four times by agitating it vigorously with hot water
under which it is melted. After the last washing, the TNT is granulated by allowing it to cool slowly under hot water
while the stirring is continued. The product, filtered off and dried at ordinary room temperature, is equal to a good
commercial sample of crude TNT. It may be purified by dissolving in warm alcohol at 60ø and allowing to cool slowly,
or it may be purified by digesting with 5 times its weight of 5% sodium hydrogen sulfite solution at 90ø for half an
hour with vigorous stirring, washing with hot water until the washings are colorless, and finally granulating as before.
The product of this last treatment is equal to a good commercial sample of purified TNT. Pure ALPHA-TNT, melting
point 80.8ø, may be procured by recrystallizing this material once from nitric acid (d. 1.42) and once from alcohol.
Well, that's it... AND REMEMBER MY WARNING!
183.ANARCHY 'N' EXPLOSIVES - VOLUME 4 by Exodus
In this particular volume, we will be discussing types of Dynamite, these high-explosives being one of the more
important or destructive of the anarchist's formulas. Note that some of these mixtures are very unstable or shock
ignited, and that care should be observed when handling these unstable mixtures. Some of these formulae deal with
Trinitrotoluene (TNT) and the preparation for that is given under the volume 3, within this series.
WARNING:
THESE ARE REAL EXPLOSIVES AND MAY CAUSE SERIOUS INJURY OR DEATH UPON MISUSE. DO NOT
ATTEMPT TO PREPARE ANY AS SAMPLE IF YOU ARE NOT FULLY CAPABLE OF UNDERSTANDING THE
DANGERS AND PRECAUTIONS OF THESE PRODUCTS. THESE FORMULAE ARE THE TRUE FORMULAE TO
CREATE THESE MIXTURES AND ARE THEREFORE VERY DANGEROUS. USE AT YOUR OWN RISK!!!
Guhr Dynamite:
Ingredients
1 part Kieselguhr
3 parts Nitroglycerin
Description
This dynamite is primarily used in blasting. It is fairly stable, in the drop test, it exploded by the fall of a 1 kg weight
through 12 to 15 cm., or by the fall of a 2 kg weight through 7 cm. The frozen material is less sensitive: a drop of
more than 20 cm. with a 1 kg weight is needed to explode it, and the 2 kg weight is necessary to explode it. Frozen or
unfrozen, it can be detonated by shooting at it with a military rifle, when held in a paper cartridge. Generally, it is
detonated with a steel-on-steel blow. Velocity of detonation vary from 6650 to 6800 meters per second at a density
loading of 1«0.
Extra-Dynamite:
FORMULA 1 FORMULA 2
71% Nitroglycerin 62% Ammonium Nitrate
23% Ammonium Nitrate 25% Nitroglycerin
4% Collodion 12% Charcoal
2% Charcoal 1% Collodion
Description:
This material is crumbly and plastic between the fingers. This material can be detonated with any detonating cap.
Table Of Dynamite Formulae:
INGREDIENT STRENGTH
15% 20% 25% 30% 35% 40% 45% 50% 55% 60%
Nitroglycerin 15% 20% 25% 30% 35% 40% 45% 50% 55% 60%
Combustible Material 20% 19% 18% 17% 16% 15% 14% 14% 15% 16%
Sodium Nitrate 64% 60% 56% 52% 48% 44% 40% 35% 29% 23%
Calcium or Magnesium Carbonate 1% 1% 1% 1% 1% 1% 1% 1% 1% 1%
Table Of More Dynamite Formulae:
INGREDIENT STRENGTH
ORDINARY LOW FREEZING
30% 35% 40% 50% 60% 30% 35% 40% 50% 60%
Nitroglycerin 15% 20% 22% 27% 35% 13% 17% 17% 21% 27%
Nitrosubstitution Compounds 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 3% 4% 4% 5% 6%
Ammonium Nitrate 15% 15% 20% 25% 30% 15% 15% 20% 25% 30%
Sodium Nitrate 51% 48% 42% 36% 24% 53% 49% 45% 36% 27%
Combustible Material 18% 16% 15% 11% 10% 15% 14% 13% 12% 9%
Calcium Carbonate or Zinc Oxide 1% 1% 1% 1% 1% 1% 1% 1% 1% 1%
Master Table Of Dynamites:
INGREDIENT FORMULA
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12
Ammonium Nitrate 52 53 60 61 66 73 78 83 0 0 0 0
Potassium Nitrate 21 0 0 0 0 2.8 5 7 30« 34 0 0
Sodium Nitrate 0 12 5 3 0 0 0 0 0 0 30« 24«
Barium Nitrate 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 2 4 1 0 0
Na or K Chloride 0 0 21 20« 22 15 8 0 0 0 0 0
Hyd Ammonium Oxalate 16 19 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
Ammonium Chloride 6 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
Cereal or Wood Meal 0 4 4 7« 2 1 5 2 0 38« 39« 40«
Glycerin 0 0 0 4 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
Spent Tan Bark Meal 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 40 1 0 0
Potassium Dichromate 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 5 5
Sodium Carbonate 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 « « 0 0
Powdered Coal 0 0 0 0 4 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
Nitrotoluene 0 0 6 1 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
Dinitrotoluene 0 0 0 0 0 5 0 0 0 0 0 0
Trinitrotoluene 0 6 0 0 0 0 0 2 0 0 0 0
Nitroglycerin 5 5 4 4 4 3.2 4 4 25 25 25 30
All measurements in percents
Well, that's it for now... have fun.... hehehehehe! USE AT YOUR OWN RISK!!!!
184.ANARCHY 'N' EXPLOSIVES - VOLUME 5 by Exodus
Well, hasn't it been long since Volume 4 of Anarchy 'n' Explosives? Well, I finally got around to typing up another
volume. This one will be dedicated to the extremely simple and more accessible explosives and incendiaries to be
prepared at home, or laboratory; depending upon the environment you have access to or are accustomed to.
For further information and/or comments on this series of ever popular explosives, contact me (I don't sign these
"publications") on the Knavery BBS at xxx-xxx-xxxx on the public message base, I should be reading some requests
if you leave them. And, volume number 6 should be coming out sooner than the time between 4 and 5, but don't
count on it.
BULK POWDERS:
Bulk powders are types of gunpowder consisting of nitrocellulose and a mixture of other chemically explosive
solutions. These nitrocellulose fibers are stuck together, but are not completely collided. Some contain little else but
nitrocellulose; others contain, in addition to potassium and barium nitrates, camphor, vaseline, paraffin, lampblack,
starch, dextrin, potassium dichromate or other oxidizing or deterrent salts, and diphenylamine for stabilization, and
are colored in a variety of brilliant hues by means of coltar dyes. Three typical bulk powders are made up according
to the approximate formulas tabulated below:
Nitrocellulose 84.0 87.0 89.0
% N in nitrocellulose 13.2 12.9 12.9
Potassium nitrate 7« 6.0 6.0
Barium nitrate 7« 2.0 3.0
Starch 0.0 0.0 1.0
Paraffin oil 0.0 4.0 0.0
Diphenylamine 1.0 1.0 1.0
The mixture is mixed in warm water and dried thoroughly. Then either granulated or made into powder by crushing
with a wooden block and screened through a 12-mesh sieve. The material is then stored in a moisture-resistant
container for future or immediate use.
MERCURY FULMINATE:
Mercury fulminate is an initiating explosive, commonly appearing as white or gray crystals. It is extremely sensitive to
initiation by heat, friction, spark or flame, and impact. It detonates when initiated by any of these means. It is
pressed into containers, usually at 3000 psi, for use in detonators and blasting caps. However, when compressed at
greater and greater pressure (up to 30,000 psi), it becomes "dead pressed." In this condition, it can only be
detonated by another initial detonating agent. Mercury fulminate gradually becomes inert when stored continuously
above 100øF. A dark colored product of deterioration gives evidence of this effect. Mercury exfulminate is stored
underwater except when there is danger of freezing. Then it is stored under a mixture of water and alcohol.
Preparation of Mercury Fulminate. Five grams of mercury is added Ext 55 cc. of nitric acid (specific gravity 1.42) in a
100-cc. Erlenmeyer flask, and the mixture is allowed to stand without shaking until the mercury has gone into
solution. The acid liquid is then poured into 50 cc. of 90% alcohol in a 500-cc. beaker in the hood. The temperature
of the mixture rises, a vigorous reaction commences, white fumes come off, and cdata bstals of fulminate soon begin
to precipitate. Red fumes appear and the precipitation of the fulminate becomes more rapid, then white fumes again
as the reaction moderates. After about 20 minutes, the reaction is over; water is added, and the cdata bstals are
washed with water repeatedly by decantation until the washings are no longer acid to litmus. The product consists of
grayish-yellow cdata bstals, and corresponds to a good grade of commercial fulminate. It may be obtained white and
entirely pure by dissolving in strong ammonia water, filtering, and reprecipitating by the addition of 30% acetic acid.
The pure fulminate is filtered off, washed several times with cold water, and stored under water, or, if a very small
amount is desired for experimental purposes, it is dried in a desiccator.
AMATOL:
Description: amatol is a high explosive, white to buff in color. It is a mixture of ammonium nitrate and TNT, with a
relative effectiveness slightly higher than that of TNT alone. Common compositions vary from 80% ammonium nitrate
and 20% TNT to 40% ammonium nitrate and 60% TNT. Amatol is used as the main bursting charge in artillery shells
and bombs. Amatol absorbs moisture and can form dangerous compounds with copper and brass. Therefore, it
should not be housed in containers of such metals.
BLACK POWDERS:
Black powders burn either quickly or very slowly depending on the composition of such a mixture; however, these
powders produce smoke, often great amounts, and is most useful in applications where smoke is no object. It is the
best for communicating fire and for producing a quick, hot flame. Black powder is used in both propellant charges for
shrapnel shells, in saluting and blank fire charges, as the bursting charge of practice shells and bombs, as a
propelling charge in certain pyrotechnic pieces, and, either with or without the admixture of other substances which
modify the rate of burning, in the time-train rings and in other parts of fuses. Below is a list of black powders and their
compositions.
Name Saltpeter (Brown) Charcoal Sulfur
England 79 (18) 3
England 77.4 (17.6) 5
Germany 78 (19) 3
Germany 80 (20) 0
France 78 (19) 3
Forte 72 15 13
Lente 40 30 30
Ordinaire 62 18 20
185.Explosives and Propellants by Exodus
Almost any city or town of reasonable size has a gun store and one or more pharmacies. These are two of the places
that potential terrorists visit in order to purchase explosive material. All that one has to do is know something about
the non- explosive uses of the materials. Black powder, for example, is used in blackpowder firearms. It comes in
varying "grades", with each different grade being a slightly different size. The grade of black powder depends on what
the caliber of the gun that it is used in; a fine grade of powder could burn too fast in the wrong caliber weapon. The
rule is: the smaller the grade, the faster the burn rate of the powder.
BLACK POWDER
Black powder is generally available in three grades. As stated before, the smaller the grade, the faster the powder
burns. Burn rate is extremely important in bombs. Since an explosion is a rapid increase of gas volume in a confined
environment, to make an explosion, a quick-burning powder is desirable. The three common grades of black powder
are listed below, along with the usual bore width (caliber) of what they are used in. Generally, the fastest burning
powder, the FFF grade is desirable. However, the other grades and uses are listed below:
GRADE BORE WIDTH EXAMPLE OF GUN
F «0 or Greater Model Cannon; some Rifles
FF .36 - «0 Large Pistols; Small Rifles
FFF .36 or Smaller Pistols; Derringers
The FFF grade is the fastest burning, because the smaller grade has more surface area or burning surface exposed
to the flame front. The larger grades also have uses which will be discussed later. The price range of black powder,
per pound, is about $8«0 - $9.00. The price is not affected by the grade, and so one saves oneself time and work if
one buys the finer grade of powder. The major problems with black powder are that it can be ignited accidentally by
static electricity, and that it has a tendency to absorb moisture from the air. To safely crush it, a one would use a
plastic spoon and a wooden salad bowl. Taking a small pile at a time, he or she would apply pressure to the powder
through the spoon and rub it in a series of strokes or circles, but not too hard. It is fine enough to use when it is about
as fine as flour. The fineness, however, is dependent on what type of device one wishes to make; obviously, it would
be impractical to crush enough powder to fill a 1 foot by 4 inch radius pipe. Any adult can purchase black powder,
since anyone can own black powder firearms in the United States.
PYRODEX
Pyrodex is a synthetic powder that is used like black powder. It comes in the same grades, but it is more expensive
per pound. However, a one pound container of pyrodex contains more material by volume than a pound of black
powder. It is much easier to crush to a very fine powder than black powder, and it is considerably safer and more
reliable. This is because it will not be set off by static electricity, as black can be, and it is less inclined to absorb
moisture. It costs about $10.00 per pound. It can be crushed in the same manner as black powder, or it can be
dissolved in boiling water and dried.
ROCKET ENGINE POWDER
One of the most exciting hobbies nowadays is model rocketry. Estes is the largest producer of model rocket kits and
engines. Rocket engines are composed of a single large grain of propellant. This grain is surrounded by a fairly
heavy cardboard tubing. One gets the propellant by slitting the tube length- wise, and unwrapping it like a paper towel
roll. When this is done, the gray fire clay at either end of the propellant grain must be removed. This is usually done
gently with a plastic or brass knife. The material is exceptionally hard, and must be crushed to be used. By gripping
the grain in the widest setting on a set of pliers, and putting the grain and powder in a plastic bag, the powder will not
break apart and shatter all over. This should be done to all the large chunks of powder, and then it should be crushed
like black powder. Rocket engines come in various sizes, ranging from 1/4 A-2T to the incredibly powerful D engines.
The larger the engine, the more expensive. D engines come in packages of three, and cost about $5.00 per package.
Rocket engines are perhaps the single most useful item sold in stores to a terrorist, since they can be used as is, or
can be cannibalized for their explosive powder.
RIFLE/SHOTGUN POWDER
Rifle powder and shotgun powder are really the same from a practical standpoint. They are both nitrocellulose based
propellants. They will be referred to as gunpowder in all future references. Smokeless gunpowder is made by the
action of concentrated nitric and sulfuric acid upon cotton or some other cellulose material. This material is then
dissolved by solvents and then reformed in the desired grain size. When dealing with smokeless gunpowder, the
grain size is not nearly as important as that of black powder. Both large and small grained smokeless powder burn
fairly slowly compared to black powder when unconfined, but when it is confined, gunpowder burns both hotter and
with more gaseous expansion, producing more pressure. Therefore, the grinding process that is often necessary for
other propellants is not necessary for smokeless powder. Powder costs about $9.00 per pound. In most states any
citizen with a valid driver's license can buy it, since there are currently few restrictions on rifles or shotguns in the US
There are now ID checks in many states when purchasing powder at a retail outlet. Mail-orders aren't subject to such
checks. Rifle powder and pyrodex may be purchased by mail order, but UPS charges will be high, due to DOT
regulations on packaging.
186.Lockpicking III by Exodus
If it becomes necessary to pick a lock to enter a lab, the world's most effective lockpick is dynamite, followed by a
sledgehammer. There are unfortunately, problems with noise and excess structural damage with these methods. The
next best thing, however, is a set of professional lockpicks.
These, unfortunately, are difficult to acquire. If the door to a lab is locked, but the deadbolt is not engaged, then there
are other possibilities. The rule here is: if one can see the latch, one can open the door. There are several devices
which facilitate freeing the latch from its hole in the wall. Dental tools, stiff wire ( 20 gauge ), specially bent aluminum
from cans, thin pocket knives, and credit cards are the tools of the trade. The way that all these tools and devices are
uses is similar: pull, push, or otherwise move the latch out of its recess in the wall, thus allowing the door to open.
This is done by sliding whatever tool that you are using behind the latch, and forcing the latch back into the door.
Most modern doorknob locks have two fingers. The larger finger holds the door closed while the second (smaller)
finger only prevents the first finger from being pressed in when it (the second finger) is pressed in by the catchplate of
the door. If you can separate the catch plate and the lock sufficiently far, the second finger will slip out enough to
permit the first finger to be slipped.
(Ill. 2.11) ___
| } <
Small -> (| } <--- The large (first) finger
second |___} <
finger
Some methods for getting through locked doors are:
1.Another method of forced entry is to use an automobile jack to force the frame around the door out of shape,
freeing the latch or exposing it to the above methods. This is possible because most door frames are designed
with a slight amount of "give". Simply put the jack into position horizontally across the frame in the vicinity of the
latch, and jack it out. If the frame is wood it may be possible to remove the jack after shutting the door, which will
relock the door and leave few signs of forced entry. This technique will not work in concrete block buildings, and
it's difficult to justify an auto jack to the security guards.
2.Use a screwdriver or two to pry the lock and door apart. While holding them apart, try to slip the lock. Screwdrivers,
while not entirely innocent, are much more subtle than auto jacks, and much faster if they work. If you're into
unsubtle, I suppose a crowbar would work too, but then why bother to slip the lock at all?
3.Find a set of double doors. They are particularly easy to pry apart far enough to slip.
4.If the lock is occasionally accessible to you while open, "adjust" or replace the catchplate to make it operate more
suitably (i.e., work so that it lets both fingers out, so that it can always be slipped). If you want, disassembling the
lock and removing some of the pins can make it much easier to pick.
5.If, for some odd reason, the hinges are on your side (i.e., the door opens outward), remove the hinge pins, provided
they aren't stopped with welded tabs. Unfortunately, this too lacks subtlety, in spite of its effectiveness.
6.If the door cannot be slipped and you will want to get through regularly, break the mechanism. Use of sufficient
force to make the first finger retreat while the second finger is retreated will break some locks (e.g., Best locks) in
such a way that they may thereafter be slipped trivially, yet otherwise work in all normal ways. Use of a hammer
and/or screwdriver is recommended. Some care should be used not to damage the door jamb when attempting
this on closed and locked doors, so as not to attract the attention of the users or owners or locksmith or police
exc.
7.Look around in desks. People very often leave keys to sensitive things in them or other obvious places. Especially
keys to shared critical resources, like supply rooms, that are typically key-limited but that everyone needs access
to. Take measurements with a micrometer, or make a tracing (lay key under paper and scribble on top), or be
dull and make a wax impression. Get blanks for the key type (can be very difficult for better locks; I won't go into
methods, other than to say that if you can get other keys made from the same blank, you can often work
wonders with a little ingenuity) and use a file to reproduce the key. Using a micrometer works best: keys made
from mic measurements are more likely to work consistently than keys made by any other method. If you us
tracings, it is likely to take many tries before you obtain a key that works reliably. Also, if you can 'borrow' the
cylinder and disassemble it, pin levels can be obtained and keys constructed.
8.Simple locks, like desks, can be picked fairly easily. Many desks have simple three or four pin locks of only a few
levels, and can be consistently picked by a patient person in a few minutes. A small screwdriver and a paper clip
will work wonders in practiced hands. Apply a slight torque to the lock in the direction of opening with the
screwdriver. Then 'rake' the pins with the unfolded paper clip. With practice, you'll apply enough pressure with
the screwdriver that the pins will align properly (they'll catch on the cylinder somewhere between the top and
bottom of their normal travel), and once they're all lined up, additional pressure on the screwdriver will then open
the lock. This, in conjunction with (7) can be very effective. This works better with older or sloppily machined
locks that have a fair amount of play in the cylinder. Even older quality locks can be picked in this manner, if their
cylinders have been worn enough to give enough play to allow pins to catch reliably. Even with a well worn
quality lock, though, it generally takes a *lot* of patience.
9.Custodial services often open up everything in sight and then take breaks. Make the most of your opportunities.
10.No matter what you're doing, look like you belong there. Nothing makes anyone more suspicious than someone
skulking about, obviously trying to look inconspicuous. If there are several of you, have some innocuous and
normal seeming warning method ("Hey, dummy! What time is it?") so that they can get anything suspicious put
away. Don't travel in large groups at 3AM. Remember, more than one car thief has managed to enlist a cop's aid
in breaking into a car. Remember this. Security people usually *like* to help people. Don't make them suspicious
or annoy them. If you do run into security people, try to make sure that there won't be any theft or break-ins
reported there the next day...
11.Consider the possibilities of master keys. Often, every lock in a building or department will have a common master
(building entrance keys are a common exception). Take apart some locks from different places that should have
common masters, measure the different pin lengths in each, and find lengths in common. Experiment. Then get
into those places you're *really* curious about.
12.Control keys are fun, too. These keys allow the user to remove the lock's core, and are generally masters. (A pair
of needle nose pliers or similar tool can then be used to open the lock, if desired.)
SLIPPING A LOCK
The best material we've found for slips so far is soft sheet copper. It is quite flexible, so it can be worked into jambs
easily, and can be pre-bent as needed. In the plane of the sheet, however, it is fairly strong, and pulls nicely. Of
course, if they're flexible enough, credit cards, student Ids, etc., work just fine on locks that have been made slippable
if the door jamb is wide enough. Wonderfully subtle, quick, and delightfully effective. Don't leave home without one.
(Ill. #1)
The sheet should then be folded to produce an L, J, or U shaped device that looks like this:
________________________________________
/________________________________________|
| |
| | L-shaped
| |
| |
|_|
(Ill. #2)
_____________________________
/ ___________________________|
| |
| | J-shaped
| |
| |________
\________|
(Ill. #3)
_____________________
/ ___________________|
| |
| |
| | U-shaped
| |
| |____________________
\____________________|
We hasten to add here that many or most colleges and universities have very strict policies about unauthorized
possession of keys. At most, it is at least grounds for expulsion, even without filing criminal charges. Don't get caught
with keys!!! The homemade ones are particularly obvious, as they don't have the usual stamps and marks that the
locksmiths put on to name and number the keys.]
We should also point out that if you make a nuisance of yourself, there are various nasty things that can be done to
catch you and/or slow you down. For instance, by putting special pin mechanisms in, locks can be made to trap any
key used to open them. If you lose one this way, what can I say? At least don't leave fingerprints on it. Or make sure
they're someone else's. Too much mischief can also tempt the powers that be to rekey.
187.Chemical Equivalent List II by Exodus
Anyone can get many chemicals from hardware stores, supermarkets, and drug stores to get the materials to make
explosives or other dangerous compounds. A would-be terrorist would merely need a station wagon and some money
to acquire many of the chemicals named here.
Chemical Used In Available at
Alcohol, Ethyl Alcoholic Beverages Liquor Stores
Solvents: 95% min for both Hardware Stores
Ammonia CLEAR Household Ammonia Supermarkets or 7-Eleven
Ammonium Nirate Instant-Cold Paks Drug Stores
Fertilizers Medical Supply Stores
Nitrous Oxide Pressurizing Whip Cream Party Supply Stores
Poppers (like COý ctgs.) Head Shops
Magnesium Firestarters Surplus or Camping Stores
Lecithin Vitamins Pharmacies or Drug Stores
Mineral Oil Cooking, Laxative Supermarket or Drug Stores
Mercury Mercury Thermometers Supermarkets
Hardware Stores
Sulfuric Acid Uncharged Car Batteries Automotive Stores
Glycerine Pharmacies or Drug Stores
Sulfur Gardening Garden or Hardware Store
Charcoal Charcoal Grills Supermarkets
Gardening Stores
Sodium Nitrate Fertilizer Gardening Stores
Cellulose (Cotton) First Aid Drug Stores
Medical Supply Stores
Strontium Nitrate Road Flares Surplus or Auto Stores
Fuel Oil Kerosene Stoves Surplus or Camping Stores
Bottled Gas Propane Stoves Surplus Camping Stores
Potassium Permanganate Water Purification Purification Plants
Hexamine or Methenamine Hexamine Stoves Surplus or Camping Stores
Nitric Acid * Cleaning Printing Printing Shops
Plates Photography Stores
Iodine + Disinfectant (tinture) Pharmacy, OSCO
Sodium Perchlorate Solidox Pellets Hardware Stores
Cutting Torches (IMPURE)
* Nitric acid is very difficult to find nowadays. It is usually stolen by bomb makers, or made by the process described
in a later section. A desired concentration for making explosives about 70%.
+ The iodine sold in drug stores is usually not the pure crystalline form that is desired for producing ammonium
triiodide crystals. To obtain the pure form, it must usually be acquired by a doctor's prescription, but this can be
expensive. Once again, theft is the means that terrorists result to.
188.Nitroglycerin II by Exodus
Nitroglycerin is one of the most sensitive explosives, if it is not the most sensitive. Although it is possible to make it
safely, it is difficult. Many a young anarchist has been killed or seriously injured while trying to make the stuff. When
Nobel's factories make it, many people were killed by the all-to-frequent factory explosions. Usually, as soon as it is
made, it is converted into a safer substance, such as dynamite. An idiot who attempts to make nitroglycerin would
use the following procedure:
MATERIAL:
Distilled Water
Table Salt
Sodium Bicarbonate
Concentrated Nitric Acid (13 mL)
Concentrated Sulfuric Acid (39 mL)
Glycerin
EQUIPMENT:
Eye-Dropper
100 mL Beaker
200-300 mL Beakers (2)
Ice Bath Container (A plastic bucket serves well)
Centigrade Thermometer
Blue Litmus Paper
1.Place 150 mL of distilled water into one of the 200-300 mL beakers.
2.In the other 200-300 mL beaker, place 150 mL of distilled water and about a spoonful of sodium bicarbonate, and
stir them until the sodium bicarbonate dissolves. Do not put so much sodium bicarbonate in the water so that
some remains undissolved.
3.Create an ice bath by half filling the ice bath container with ice, and adding table salt. This will cause the ice to
melt, lowering the overall temperature.
4.Place the 100 mL beaker into the ice bath, and pour the 13 mL of concentrated nitric acid into the 100 mL beaker.
Be sure that the beaker will not spill into the ice bath, and that the ice bath will not overflow into the beaker when
more materials are added to it. Be sure to have a large enough ice bath container to add more ice. Bring the
temperature of the acid down to about 20øC or less.
5.When the nitric acid is as cold as stated above, slowly and carefully add the 39 mL of concentrated sulfuric acid to
the nitric acid. Mix the two acids together, and cool the mixed acids to 10øC. It is a good idea to start another ice
bath to do this.
6.With the eyedropper, slowly put the glycerin into the mixed acids, one drop at a time. Hold the thermometer along
the top of the mixture where the mixed acids and glycerin meet.
DO NOT ALLOW THE TEMPERATURE TO GET ABOVE 30ø CENTIGRADE
IF THE TEMPERATURE RISES ABOVE THIS TEMPERATURE, WATCH OUT !!
7.The glycerin will start to nitrate immediately, and the temperature will immediately begin to rise. Add glycerin until
there is a thin layer of glycerin on top of the mixed acids. It is always safest to make any explosive in small
quantities.
8.Stir the mixed acids and glycerin for the first ten minutes of nitration, adding ice and salt to the ice bath to keep the
temperature of the solution in the 100 mL beaker well below 30øC. Usually, the nitroglycerin will form on the top
of the mixed acid solution, and the concentrated sulfuric acid will absorb the water produced by the reaction.
9.When the reaction is over, and when the nitroglycerin is well below 30øC, slowly and carefully pour the solution of
nitroglycerin and mixed acid into the distilled water in the beaker in step 1. The nitroglycerin should settle to the
bottom of the beaker, and the water-acid solution on top can be poured off and disposed of. Drain as much of
the acid- water solution as possible without disturbing the nitroglycerin.
10.Carefully remove the nitroglycerin with a clean eye-dropper, and place it into the beaker in step 2. The sodium
bicarbonate solution will eliminate much of the acid, which will make the nitroglycerin more stable, and less likely
to explode for no reason, which it can do. Test the nitroglycerin with the litmus paper until the litmus stays blue.
Repeat this step if necessary, and use new sodium bicarbonate solutions as in step 2.
11.When the nitroglycerin is as acid-free as possible, store it in a clean container in a safe place. The best place to
store nitroglycerin is far away from anything living, or from anything of any value. Nitroglycerin can explode for no
apparent reason, even if it is stored in a secure cool place.
189.Cellulose Nitrate by Exodus
I used to make nitrocellulose, though. It was not guncotton grade, because I didn't have petroleum (H2SO4 with
dissolved SO3); nevertheless it worked. At first I got my H2SO4 from a little shop in downtown Philadelphia, which
sold soda-acid fire extinguisher refills. Not only was the acid concentrated, cheap and plentiful, it came with enough
carbonate to clean up. I'd add KNO3 and a little water (OK, I'd add the acid to the water - but there was so little water,
what was added to what made little difference. It spattered concentrated H2SO4 either way). Later on, when I could
purchase the acids, I believe I used 3 parts H2SO4 to 1 part HNO3. For cotton, I'd use cotton wool or cotton cloth.
Runaway nitration was commonplace, but it is usually not so disastrous with nitrocellulose as it is with nitroglycerin.
For some reason, I tried washing the cotton cloth in a solution of lye, and rinsing it well in distilled water. I let the cloth
dry and then nitrated it. (Did I read this somewhere?) When that product was nitrated, I never got a runaway reaction.
By the way, water quenched the runaway reaction of cellulose.
The product was washed thoroughly and allowed to dry. It dissolved (or turned into mush) in acetone. It dissolved in
alcohol/ether.
WARNINGS
All usual warnings regarding strong acids apply. H2SO4 likes to spatter. When it falls on the skin, it destroys tissue -
often painfully. It dissolves all manner of clothing. Nitric also destroys skin, turning it bright yellow in the process.
Nitric is an oxidant - it can start fires. Both agents will happily blind you if you get them in your eyes. Other warnings
also apply. Not for the novice.
Nitrocellulose decomposes very slowly on storage if it isn't stabilized. The decomposition is autocatalyzing, and can
result in spontaneous explosion if the material is kept confined over time. The process is much faster if the material is
not washed well enough. Nitrocellulose powders contain stabilizers such as diphenyl amine or ethyl centralite. DO
NOT ALLOW THESE TO COME INTO CONTACT WITH NITRIC ACID!!!! A small amount of either substance will
capture the small amounts of nitrogen oxides that result from decomposition. They therefore inhibit the autocatalysis.
NC eventually will decompose in any case.
Again, this is inherently dangerous and illegal in certain areas. I got away with it. You may kill yourself and others if
you try it.
Commercially produced Nitrocellulose is stabilized by:
1.Spinning it in a large centrifuge to remove the remaining acid, which is recycled.
2.Immersion in a large quantity of fresh water.
3.Boiling it in acidulated water and washing it thoroughly with fresh water.
If the NC is to be used as smokeless powder it is boiled in a soda solution, then rinsed in fresh water.
The purer the acid used (lower water content) the more complete the nitration will be, and the more powerful the
nitrocellulose produced.
There are actually three forms of cellulose nitrate, only one of which is useful for pyrotechnic purposes. The
mononitrate and dinitrate are not explosive, and are produced by incomplete nitration. If nitration is allowed to
proceed to complete the explosive trinatrate is formed.
(Ill. 3.22.2)
CH OH CH ONO
| 2 | 2 2
| |
C-----O HNO C-----O
/H \ 3 /H \
-CH CH-O- --> -CH CH-O-
\H H/ H SO \H H/
C-----C 2 4 C-----C
| | | |
OH OH ONO ONO
2 2
CELLULOSE CELLULOSE TRINITRATE
190.Starter Explosives by Exodus
There are nearly an infinite number of fuel-oxidizer mixtures that can be produced by a misguided individual in his
own home. Some are very effective and dangerous, while others are safer and less effective. A list of working fueloxidizer
mixtures will be presented, but the exact measurements of each compound are debatable for maximum
effectiveness. A rough estimate will be given of the percentages of each fuel and oxidizer:
Oxidizer % by weight Fuel % by weight Speed Notes
Potassium Chlorate 67% Sulfur 33% 5 Friction or Impact
Sensitive & Unstable
Potassium Chlorate 50% Sugar 35% 5 Fairly Slow Burning
Charcoal 15% Unstable
Potassium Chlorate 50% Sulfur 25% 8 Extremely Unstable!
Magnesium or 25%
Aluminum Dust 25%
Potassium Chlorate 67% Magnesium 33% 8 Unstable
Aluminum Dust 33%
Sodium Nitrate 65% Magnesium Dust 30% ? Unpredictable
Sulfur 5%
Potassium Permanganate 60% Glycerin 40% 4 Delay Before Ignition depends upon
Grain Size
Potassium Permanganate 67% Sulfur 33% 5 Unstable
Potassium Permanganate 60% Sulfur 20% 5 Unstable
Magnesium or 20%
Aluminum Dust 20%
Potassium Permanganate 50% Sugar 50% 3 ?
Potassium Nitrate 75% Charcoal 15% 7 This is Black Powder!
Sulfur 10%
Potassium Nitrate 60% Powdered Iron or 40% 1 Burns Very Hot
Magnesium 40%
Potassium Chlorate 75% Phosphorus Sesquisulfide 25% 8 Used
to make strike-anywhere matches
Ammonium Perchlorate 70% Aluminum Dust 30% 6 Solid Fuel for Space Shuttle
Small amount of Iron Oxide
Potassium Perchlorate 67% Magnesium or 33% 10 Flash Powder
(Sodium Perchlorate) Aluminum Dust 33%
Potassium Perchlorate 60% Magnesium or 20% 8 Alternate
(Sodium Perchlorate) Aluminum Dust 20% Flash Powder
Sulfur 20%
Barium Nitrate 30% Aluminum Dust 30% 9 Alternate
Potassium Perchlorate 30% Flash
Powder
Barium Peroxide 90% Magnesium Dust 5% 10 Alternate
Aluminum Dust 5% Flash Powder
Potassium Perchlorate 50% Sulfur 25% 8 Slightly Unstable
Magnesium or 25%
Aluminum Dust 25%
Potassium Chlorate 67% Red Phosphorus 27% 7 Very Unstable Impact Sensitive
Calcium Carbonate 3%
Sulfur 3%
Potassium Permanganate 50% powdered sugar 25% 7 Unstable
Aluminum or 25% Ignites if it gets wet!
Magnesium Dust 25%
Potassium Chlorate 75% Charcoal Dust 15% 6 Unstable
Sulfur 10%
WARNING: POTASSIUM PERMANGANATE IGNITES SPONTANEOUSLY WITH GLYCERIN!!!
NOTE: Mixtures that uses substitutions of sodium perchlorate for potassium perchlorate become moisture-absorbent
and less stable.
The higher the speed number, the faster the fuel-oxidizer mixture burns AFTER ignition. Also, as a rule, the finer the
powder, the faster the rate of burning.
As one can easily see, there is a wide variety of fuel-oxidizer mixtures that can be made at home. By altering the
amounts of fuel and oxidizer(s), different burn rates can be achieved, but this also can change the sensitivity of the
mixture.
191.Flash Powder By Dr. Tiel
Here are a few basic precautions to take if you're crazy enough to produce your own flash powder:
1.Grind the oxidizer (KNO3, KClO3, KMnO4, KClO4 etc.) separately in a clean vessel.
2.NEVER grind or sift the mixed composition.
3.Mix the composition on a large paper sheet, by rolling the composition back and forth.
4.Do not store flash compositions, especially any containing Mg.
5.Make very small quantities at first, so you can appreciate the power of such mixtures.
KNO3 50% (by weight)
Mg 50%
It is very important to have the KNO3 very dry, if evolution of ammonia is observed then the KNO3 has water in it.
Very pure and dry KNO3 is needed. KClO3 with Mg or Al metal powders works very well. Many hands, faces and
lives have been lost with such compositions. KMnO4 with Mg or Al is also an extremely powerful flash composition.
KClO4 with Al is generally found in commercial fireworks, this does not mean that it is safe, it is a little safer than
KClO3 above. KýCrýO7 can also be used as an oxidizer for flash powder. The finer the oxidizer and the finer the
metal powder the more powerful the explosive. This of course will also increase the sensitivity of the flash powder.
For a quick flash small quantities can be burnt in the open. Larger quantities (50g or more) ignited in the open can
detonate, they do not need a container to do so.
NOTE: Flash powder in any container will detonate.
Balanced equations of some oxidizer/metal reactions. Only major products are considered. Excess metal powders
are generally used. This excess burns with atmospheric oxygen.
4 KNO3 + 10 Mg --> 2 KýO + 2 Ný + 10 MgO + Energy
KClO3 + 2 Al --> KCl + AlýO3 + Energy
3 KClO4 + 8 Al --> 3 KCl + 4 AlýO3 + Energy
6 KMnO4 + 14 Al --> 3 KýO + 7 AlýO3 + 6 Mn + Energy
Make Black Powder first if you have never worked with pyrotechnic materials, then think about this stuff.
Dr. Van Tiel - Ph.D. Chemistry
Potassium perchlorate is a lot safer than sodium/potassium chlorate.
1 92.The Explosive Pen by Blue Max
Here's a GREAT little trick to play on your best fiend (no that's not a typo) at school, or maybe as a practical joke on a
friend!
Materials Needed:
1.One Ball Point "Click" pen
2.Gun Powder
3.8 or 10 match heads
4.1 Match stick
5.a sheet of sand paper (1 «" X 2")
Directions:
1.Unscrew pen and remove all parts but leave the button in the top.
2.Stick the match stick in the part of the pen clicker where the other little parts and the ink fill was.
3.Roll sand paper up and put around the match stick that is in the clicker.
4.Put the remaining Match Heads inside the pen, make sure that they are on the inside on the sand paper.
5.Put a small piece of paper or something in the other end of the pen where the ball point comes out.
6.Fill the end with the piece of paper in it with gun powder. The paper is to keep the powder from spilling.
The Finished pen should look like this:
Small Paper Clog Gun Powder Matches & Sandpaper \
| |
\ | |
\ _________________|____________________|________
<_______________________________|_______________|===
193.Revised Pipe Bombs by Exodus
First, one flattens one end of a copper or aluminum pipe carefully, making sure not to tear or rip the piping. Then, the
flat end of the pipe should be folded over at least once, if this does not rip the pipe. A fuse hole should be drilled in
the pipe near the now closed end, and the fuse should be inserted.
Next, the bomb-builder would partially fill the casing with a low order explosive, and pack it with a large wad of tissue
paper. He would then flatten and fold the other end of the pipe with a pair of pliers. If he was not too dumb, he would
do this slowly, since the process of folding and bending metal gives off heat, which could set off the explosive. A
diagram is presented below:
(Ill. #1)
ÚÂÄÄÄÄÄÄ¿
ÚÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÂÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÙ³ ³
³ ³ o ³ ³
ÀÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ¿³ ³
ÀÁÄÄÄÄÄÄÙ
Fig. 1 - Pipe with one end flattened and fuse hole drilled. [Top view]
(Ill. #2)
ÚÄÄÂÄÄ¿
ÚÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÙ ³ ³
³ ³ ³
³ o ³ ³
ÀÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ¿ ³ ³
ÀÄÄÁÄÄÙ
Fig. 2 - Pipe with one end flattened and folded up. [Top view]
(Ill. #3)
ÚÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ Fuse Hole
³
ÚÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄoÄÄÄÄ¿ ÚÄÄÄÄ¿
³ À¿ ÀÄÄ¿ ³
³ ÀÄÄÄÄÙ ³
³ ÚÄÄÄÄÄÄÙ
³ ÚÙ
ÀÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÙ
Fig. 3 - Pipe with flattened and folded end. [Side view]
194.SAFETY TIPS -- HOW NOT TO GET KILLED by Exodus An "own goal" is the death of a person on your side from one of your own devices. It is obvious that these should be
avoided at all costs. While no safety device is 100% reliable, it is usually better to err on the side of caution.
BASIC SAFETY RULES
1.DON'T SMOKE! (Don't laugh - an errant cigarette wiped out the Weathermen)
2.GRIND ALL INGREDIENTS SEPARATELY. It's surprising how friction sensitive some supposedly "safe" explosives
really are.
3.ALLOW for a 20% margin of error - Just because the AVERAGE burning rate of a fuse is 30 secs/foot, don't
depend on the 5 inches sticking out of your pipe bomb to take exactly 2« minutes.
4.OVERESTIMATE THE RANGE OF YOUR SHRAPNEL. The cap from a pipe bomb can often travel a block or more
at high velocities before coming to rest - If you have to stay nearby, remember that if you can see it, it can kill
you.
5.When mixing sensitive compounds (such as flash powder) avoid all sources of static electricity. Mix the ingredients
by the method below:
HOW TO MIX INGREDIENTS
The best way to mix two dry chemicals to form an explosive is to do as the small-scale fireworks manufacturer's do:
Ingredients:
1 large sheet of smooth paper (for example a page from a newspaper that does not use staples)
The dry chemicals needed for the desired compound.
1.Measure out the appropriate amounts of the two chemicals, and pour them in two small heaps near opposite
corners of the sheet.
2.Pick up the sheet by the two corners near the powders, allowing the powders to roll towards the middle of the
sheet.
3.By raising one corner and then the other, roll the powders back and forth in the middle of the open sheet, taking
care not to let the mixture spill from either of the loose ends.
4.Pour the powder off from the middle of the sheet, and use immediately. If it must be stored use airtight containers
(35mm film canisters work nicely) and store away from people, houses, and valuable items.
1 95.Ammonium TriIodide Crystals by Exodus
Ammonium triiodide crystals are foul-smelling purple colored crystals that decompose under the slightest amount of
heat, friction, or shock, if they are made with the purest ammonia (ammonium hydroxide) and iodine. Such crystals
are said to detonate when a fly lands on them, or when an ant walks across them. Household ammonia, however,
has enough impurities, such as soaps and abrasive agents, so that the crystals will detonate when thrown, crushed,
or heated. Ammonia, when bought in stores comes in a variety of forms. The pine and cloudy ammonias should not
be bought; only the clear ammonia should be used to make ammonium triiodide crystals. Upon detonation, a loud
report is heard, and a cloud of purple iodine gas appears about the detonation site. Whatever the unfortunate surface
that the crystal was detonated upon will usually be ruined, as some of the iodine in the crystal is thrown about in a
solid form, and iodine is corrosive. It leaves nasty, ugly, permanent brownish-purple stains on whatever it contacts.
Iodine gas is also bad news, since it can damage lungs, and it settles to the ground and stains things there also.
Touching iodine leaves brown stains on the skin that last for about a week, unless they are immediately and
vigorously washed off. While such a compound would have little use to a serious terrorist, a vandal could utilize them
in damaging property. Or, a terrorist could throw several of them into a crowd as a distraction, an action which would
possibly injure a few people, but frighten almost anyone, since a small crystal that may not be seen when thrown
produces a rather loud explosion.
Ammonium triiodide crystals could be produced in the following manner:
Materials:
Iodine crystals
Clear ammonia (ammonium hydroxide, for the suicidal)
Equipment:
Funnel and filter paper
Paper towels
Two throw-away glass jars
1.Place about two teaspoons of iodine into one of the glass jars. The jars must both be throw away because they will
never be clean again.
2.Add enough ammonia to completely cover the iodine.
3.Place the funnel into the other jar, and put the filter paper in the funnel. The technique for putting filter paper in a
funnel is taught in every basic chemistry lab class: fold the circular paper in half, so that a semi-circle is formed.
Then, fold it in half again to form a triangle with one curved side. Pull one thickness of paper out to form a cone,
and place the cone into the funnel.
4.After allowing the iodine to soak in the ammonia for a while, pour the solution into the paper in the funnel through
the filter paper.
5.While the solution is being filtered, put more ammonia into the first jar to wash any remaining crystals into the
funnel as soon as it drains.
6.Collect all the purplish crystals without touching the brown filter paper, and place them on the paper towels to dry
for about an hour. Make sure that they are not too close to any lights or other sources of heat, as they could well
detonate. While they are still wet, divide the wet material into eight pieces of about the same size.
7.After they dry, gently place the crystals onto a one square inch piece of duct tape. Cover it with a similar piece, and
gently press the duct tape together around the crystal, making sure not to press the crystal itself. Finally, cut
away most of the excess duct tape with a pair of scissors, and store the crystals in a cool dry safe place. They
have a shelf life of about a week, and they should be stored in individual containers that can be thrown away,
since they have a tendency to slowly decompose, a process which gives off iodine vapors, which will stain
whatever they settle on. One possible way to increase their shelf life is to store them in airtight containers. To
use them, simply throw them against any surface or place them where they will be stepped on or crushed.
1 96.Sulfuric Acid & Amm. Nitrate III by Exodus
Sulfuric acid is far too difficult to make outside of a laboratory or industrial plant. However, it is readily available in an
uncharged car battery. A person wishing to make sulfuric acid would simply remove the top of a car battery and pour
the acid into a glass container. There would probably be pieces of lead from the battery in the acid which would have
to be removed, either by boiling or filtration. The concentration of the sulfuric acid can also be increased by boiling it;
very pure sulfuric acid pours slightly faster than clean motor oil.
AMMONIUM NITRATE
Ammonium nitrate is a very powerful but insensitive high-order explosive. It could be made very easily by pouring
nitric acid into a large flask in an ice bath. Then, by simply pouring household ammonia into the flask and running
away, ammonium nitrate would be formed. After the materials have stopped reacting, one would simply have to leave
the solution in a warm place until all of the water and any unneutralized ammonia or acid have evaporated. There
would be a fine powder formed, which would be ammonium nitrate. It must be kept in an airtight container, because
of its tendency to pick up water from the air. The crystals formed in the above process would have to be heated
VERY gently to drive off the remaining water.
1 97.Black Powder III by Exodus
First made by the Chinese for use in fireworks, black powder was first used in weapons and explosives in the 12th
century. It is very simple to make, but it is not very powerful or safe. Only about 50% of black powder is converted to
hot gasses when it is burned; the other half is mostly very fine burned particles. Black powder has one major
problem... it can be ignited by static electricity. This is very bad, and it means that the material must be made with
wooden or clay tools. Anyway, a misguided individual could manufacture black powder at home with the following
procedure:
MATERIALS:
Potassium Nitrate (75 g) -or- Sodium Nitrate (75 g)
Sulfur (10 g)
Charcoal (15 g)
Distilled Water
EQUIPMENT:
Clay grinding bowl and clay grinder -or- wooden salad bowl and wooden spoon
Plastic Bags (3)
300-500 mL Beaker (1)
Coffee Pot or Heat Source
1.Place a small amount of the potassium or sodium nitrate in the grinding bowl and grind it to a very fine powder. Do
this to all of the potassium or sodium nitrate, and store the ground powder in one of the plastic bags.
2.Do the same thing to the sulfur and charcoal, storing each chemical in a separate plastic bag.
3.Place all of the finely ground potassium or sodium nitrate in the beaker, and add just enough boiling water to the
chemical to get it all wet.
4.Add the contents of the other plastic bags to the wet potassium or sodium nitrate, and mix them well for several
minutes. Do this until there is no more visible sulfur or charcoal, or until the mixture is universally black.
5.On a warm sunny day, put the beaker outside in the direct sunlight. Sunlight is really the best way to dry black
powder, since it is never too hot, but it is hot enough to evaporate the water.
6.Scrape the black powder out of the beaker, and store it in a safe container. Plastic is really the safest container,
followed by paper. Never store black powder in a plastic bag, since plastic bags are prone to generate static
electricity.
1 98.NitroCellulose by Exodus
Nitrocellulose is usually called "gunpowder" or "guncotton". It is more stable than black powder, and it produces a
much greater volume of hot gas. It also burns much faster than black powder when it is in a confined space. Finally,
nitrocellulose is fairly easy to make, as outlined by the following procedure:
MATERIALS:
Cotton (Cellulose)
Concentrated Nitric Acid
Concentrated Sulfuric Acid
Distilled Water
EQUIPMENT:
Two (2) 200-300 mL Beakers
Funnel and Filter Paper
Blue Litmus Paper
1.Pour 10 cc of concentrated sulfuric acid into the beaker. Add to this 10 cc of concentrated nitric acid.
2.Immediately add 0« gm of cotton, and allow it to soak for exactly 3 minutes.
3.Remove the nitrocotton, and transfer it to a beaker of distilled water to wash it in.
4.Allow the material to dry, and then re-wash it.
5.After the cotton is neutral when tested with litmus paper, it is ready to be dried and stored.
1 99.RDX II by Exodus
RDX, also called Cyclonite, or composition C-1 (when mixed with plasticisers) is one of the most valuable of all
military explosives. This is because it has more than 150% of the power of TNT, and is much easier to detonate. It
should not be used alone, since it can be set off by a not-too severe shock. It is less sensitive than Mercury
Fulminate or Nitroglycerin, but it is still too sensitive to be used alone.
NO
2
|
N
/ \ RDX MOLECULE
/ \
H C H C
/ 2 2
/ |
O N N--NO
2 \ / 2
\ /
\ /
CH
2
RDX can be made by the surprisingly simple method outlined hereafter. It is much easier to make in the home than
all other high explosives, with the possible exception of Ammonium Nitrate.
MATERIALS:
Hexamine -or- Methenamine Fuel Tablets (50 g)
Concentrated Nitric Acid (550 mL)
Ammonium Nitrate
Distilled Water
Table Salt
Ice
EQUIPMENT:
500 mL Beaker
Glass Stirring Rod
Funnel and Filter Paper
Ice Bath Container (Plastic Bucket)
Centigrade Thermometer
Blue Litmus Paper
1.Place the beaker in the ice bath, (see steps 3-4) and carefully pour 550 mL of concentrated Nitric Acid into the
beaker.
2.When the acid has cooled to below 20øC, add small amounts of the crushed fuel tablets to the beaker. The
temperature will rise, and it must be kept below 30øC, or dire consequences could result. Stir the mixture.
3.Drop the temperature below 0øC, either by adding more ice and salt to the old ice bath, or by creating a new ice
bath. Ammonium Nitrate could be added to the old ice bath, since it becomes cold when it is put in water.
Continue stirring the mixture, keeping the temperature below 0øC for at least twenty minutes.
4.Pour the mixture into a liter of crushed ice. Shake and stir the mixture, and allow it to melt. Once it has melted, filter
out the crystals, and dispose of the corrosive liquid.
5.Place the crystals into one half a liter of boiling distilled water. Filter the crystals, and test them with the blue litmus
paper. Repeat steps 4 and 5 until the litmus paper remains blue. This will make the crystals more stable and
safe.
6.Store the crystals wet until ready for use. Allow them to dry completely using them. RDX is not stable enough to
use alone as an explosive.
7.Composition C-1 can be made by mixing 88.3% RDX (by weight) with 11.1% mineral oil, and 0.6% lecithin. Kneed
these material together in a plastic bag. This is one way to desensitize the explosive.
8.HMX is a mixture of TNT and RDX; the ratio is 50/50, by weight. It is not as sensitive, and is almost as powerful as
straight RDX.
9.By adding ammonium nitrate to the crystals of RDX after step 5, it should be possible to desensitize the RDX and
increase its power, since ammonium nitrate is very insensitive and powerful. Sodium or potassium nitrate could
also be added; a small quantity is sufficient to stabilize the RDX.
10.RDX detonates at a rate of 8550 meters/second when it is compressed to a density of 1«5 g/cubic cm.
2 00.Black Gate BBS by Exodus
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2 01.ANFOS by Dean S.
ANFO is an acronym for Ammonium Nitrate - Fuel Oil Solution. An ANFO solves the only other major problem with
ammonium nitrate: its tendency to pick up water vapor from the air. This results in the explosive failing to detonate
when such an attempt is made. This is rectified by mixing 94% (by weight) ammonium nitrate with 6% fuel oil, or
kerosene. The kerosene keeps the ammonium nitrate from absorbing moisture from the air. An ANFO also requires a
large shockwave to set it off.
About ANFO
Lately there was been a lot said about various ANFO mixtures. These are mixtures of Ammonium Nitrate with Fuel
Oil. This forms a reasonably powerful commercial explosive, with its primary benefit being the fact that it is cheap.
Bulk ANFO should run somewhere around 9-12 cents the pound. This is dirt cheap compared to 40% nitro gel
dynamites at 1 to 2 dollars the pound. To keep the cost down, it is frequently mixed at the borehole by a bulk truck,
which has a pneumatic delivery hopper of AN prills (that's pellets to most of the world) and a tank of fuel oil. It is
strongly recommended that a dye of some sort, preferably red be added to the fuel oil to make it easier to distinguish
treated AN explosive from untreated oxidizer.
ANFO is not without its problems. To begin with, it is not that sensitive to detonation. Number eight caps are not
reliable when used with ANFO. Booster charges must be used to avoid dud blast holes. Common boosters include
sticks of various dynamites, small pours of water gel explosives, dupont's detaprime cast boosters, and Atlas's power
primer cast explosive. The need to use boosters raises the cost. Secondly, ANFO is very water susceptible. It
dissolves in it, or absorbs it from the atmosphere, and becomes quite worthless real quick. It must be protected from
water with borehole liners, and still must be shot real quick. Third, ANFO has a low density, somewhere around .85.
This means ANFO sacks float, which is no good, and additionally, the low density means the power is somewhat low.
Generally, the more weight of explosive one can place in a hole, the more effective. ANFO blown into the hole with a
pneumatic system fractures as it is places, raising the density to about .9 or .92. The delivery system adds to the
cost, and must be anti static in nature. Aluminum is added to some commercial, cartridge packaged ANFOs to raise
the density---this also raises power considerable, and a few of these mixtures are reliably cap sensitive.
Now than, for formulations. An earlier article mentioned 2« kilos of ammonium nitrate, and I believe 5 to 6 liters of
diesel. This mixture is extremely over fueled, and I'd be surprised if it worked. Dupont recommends a AN to FO ratio
of 93% AN to 7% FO by weight. Hardly any oil at all. More oil makes the mixture less explosive by absorbing
detonation energy, and excess fuel makes detonation byproducts health hazards as the mixture is oxygen poor. Note
that commercial fertilizer products do not work as well as the porous AN prills dupont sells, because fertilizers are
coated with various materials meant to seal them from moisture, which keep the oil from being absorbed.
Another problem with ANFO: for reliable detonation, it needs confinement, either from a casing, borehole, etc, or from
the mass of the charge. Thus, a pile of the stuff with a booster in it is likely to scatter and burn rather than explode
when the booster is shot. In boreholes, or reasonable strong casings (cardboard, or heavy plastic film sacks) the stuff
detonated quite well. So will big piles. That's how the explosive potential was discovered: a small oil freighter
rammed a bulk chemical ship. Over several hours the cargoes intermixed to some degree, and reached critical mass.
Real big bang. A useful way to obtain the containment needed is to replace the fuel oil with a wax fuel. Mix the AN
with just enough melted wax to form a cohesive mixture, mold into shape. The wax fuels, and retains the mixture.
This is what the US military uses as a man placed cratering charge. The military literature states this can be set off by
a blasting cap, but it is important to remember the military blasting caps are considerable more powerful than
commercial ones. The military rightly insists on reliability, and thus a strong cap (maybe 70-80 percent stronger than
commercial). They also tend to go overboard when calculating demolition charges...., but hey, who doesn't...
Two manuals of interest: Duponts "Blaster's Handbook", $20 manual mainly useful for rock and seismographic
operations. Atlas's "Powder Manual" or "Manual of Rock Blasting" (I forget the title, its in the office). This is a $60
book, well worth the cash, dealing with the above two topics, plus demolitions, and non-quarry blasting.
Incidentally, combining fuel oil and ammonium nitrate constitutes the manufacture of a high explosive, and requires a
federal permit to manufacture and store. Even the mines that mix it on site require the permit to manufacture. Those
who don't manufacture only need permits to store. Those who don't store need no permits, which includes most of us:
anyone, at least in the US may purchase explosives, provided they are 21 or older, and have no criminal record. Note
they ought to be used immediately, because you do need a license to store. Note also that commercial explosives
contain quantities of tracing agents, which make it real easy for the FBI to trace the explosion to the purchaser, so
please, nobody blow up any banks, orphanages, or old folks homes, okay.
2 02.Picric Acid by Exodus
Picric acid, also known as Tri-Nitro-Phenol, or TNP, is a military explosive that is most often used as a booster
charge to set off another less sensitive explosive, such as TNT. It's another explosive that is fairly simple to make,
assuming that one can acquire the concentrated sulfuric and nitric acids. Its procedure for manufacture is given in
many college chemistry lab manuals, and is easy to follow. The main problem with picric acid is its tendency to form
dangerously sensitive and unstable picrate salts, such as potassium picrate. For this reason, it is usually made into a
safer form, such as ammonium picrate, also called explosive D. A social deviant would probably use a formula similar
to the one presented here to make picric acid.
MATERIALS:
Phenol (9« g)
Concentrated Sulfuric Acid (12« mL)
Concentrated Nitric Acid (38 mL)
Distilled Water
EQUIPMENT:
500 mL Flask
Adjustable Heat Source
1000 mL Beaker -or- other container suitable for boiling in
Filter Paper and Funnel
Glass Stirring Rod
1.Place 9« grams of phenol into the 500 mL flask, and carefully add 12« mL of concentrated sulfuric acid and stir the
mixture.
2.Put 400 mL of tap water into the 1000 mL beaker or boiling container and bring the water to a gentle boil.
3.After warming the 500 mL flask under hot tap water, place it in the boiling water, and continue to stir the mixture of
phenol and acid for about thirty minutes. After thirty minutes, take the flask out, and allow it to cool for about five
minutes.
4.Pour out the boiling water used above, and after allowing the container to cool, use it to create an ice bath, similar
to the one used in steps 3-4. Place the 500 mL flask with the mixed acid an phenol in the ice bath. Add 38 mL of
concentrated nitric acid in small amounts, stirring the mixture constantly. A vigorous but "harmless" reaction
should occur. When the mixture stops reacting vigorously, take the flask out of the ice bath.
5.Warm the ice bath container, if it is glass, and then begin boiling more tap water. Place the flask containing the
mixture in the boiling water, and heat it in the boiling water for 1« to 2 hours.
6.Add 100 mL of cold distilled water to the solution, and chill it in an ice bath until it is cold.
7.Filter out the yellowish-white picric acid crystals by pouring the solution through the filter paper in the funnel. Collect
the liquid and dispose of it in a safe place, since it is corrosive.
8.Wash out the 500 mL flask with distilled water, and put the contents of the filter paper in the flask. Add 300 mL of
water, and shake vigorously.
9.Re-filter the crystals, and allow them to dry.
10.Store the crystals in a safe place in a glass container, since they will react with metal containers to produce
picrates that could explode spontaneously.
2 03.CHEMICAL FIRE BOTTLE by Exodus
The chemical fire bottle is really an advanced molotov cocktail. Rather than using the burning cloth to ignite the
flammable liquid, which has at best a fair chance of igniting the liquid, the chemical fire bottle utilizes the very hot and
violent reaction between sulfuric acid and potassium chlorate. When the container breaks, the sulfuric acid in the
mixture of gasoline sprays onto the paper soaked in potassium chlorate and sugar. The paper, when struck by the
acid, instantly bursts into a white flame, igniting the gasoline. The chance of failure to ignite the gasoline is less than
2%, and can be reduced to 0%, if there is enough potassium chlorate and sugar to spare.
MATERIALS:
Potassium Chlorate (2 teaspoons)
Sugar (2 teaspoons)
Concentrated Sulfuric Acid (4 oz.)
Gasoline (8 oz.)
EQUIPMENT:
12 oz. glass bottle
Cap for bottle, with plastic inside
Cooking Pan with raised edges
Paper Towels
Glass or Plastic Cup and Spoon
1.Test the cap of the bottle with a few drops of sulfuric acid to make sure that the acid will not eat away the bottle cap
during storage. If the acid eats through it in 24 hours, a new top must be found and tested, until a cap that the
acid does not eat through is found. A glass top is excellent.
2.Carefully pour 8 oz. of gasoline into the glass bottle.
3.Carefully pour 4 oz. of concentrated sulfuric acid into the glass bottle. Wipe up any spills of acid on the sides of the
bottle, and screw the cap on the bottle. Wash the bottle's outside with plenty of water. Set it aside to dry.
4.Put about two teaspoons of potassium chlorate and about two teaspoons of sugar into the glass or plastic cup. Add
about « cup of boiling water, or enough to dissolve all of the potassium chlorate and sugar.
5.Place a sheet of paper towel in the cooking pan with raised edges. Fold the paper towel in half, and pour the
solution of dissolved potassium chlorate and sugar on it until it is thoroughly wet. Allow the towel to dry.
6.When it is dry, put some glue on the outside of the glass bottle containing the gasoline and sulfuric acid mixture.
Wrap the paper towel around the bottle, making sure that it sticks to it in all places. Store the bottle in a place
where it will not be broken or tipped over.
7.When finished, the solution in the bottle should appear as two distinct liquids, a dark brownish-red solution on the
bottom, and a clear solution on top. The two solutions will not mix. To use the chemical fire bottle, simply throw it
at any hard surface.
8.NEVER OPEN THE BOTTLE, SINCE SOME SULFURIC ACID MIGHT BE ON THE CAP, WHICH COULD
TRICKLE DOWN THE SIDE OF THE BOTTLE AND IGNITE THE POTASSIUM CHLORATE, CAUSING A FIRE
AND/OR EXPLOSION.
9.To test the device, tear a small piece of the paper towel off the bottle, and put a few drops of sulfuric acid on it. The
paper towel should immediately burst into a white flame.
BOTTLED GAS EXPLOSIVES
Bottled gas, such as butane for refilling lighters, propane for propane stoves or for bunsen burners, can be used to
produce a powerful explosion. To make such a device, all that a simple-minded anarchist would have to do would be
to take his container of bottled gas and place it above a can of Sterno or other gelatinized fuel, light the fuel and run.
Depending on the fuel used, and on the thickness of the fuel container, the liquid gas will boil and expand to the point
of bursting the container in about five minutes.
In theory, the gas would immediately be ignited by the burning gelatinized fuel, producing a large fireball and
explosion. Unfortunately, the bursting of the bottled gas container often puts out the fuel, thus preventing the
expanding gas from igniting. By using a metal bucket half filled with gasoline, however, the chances of ignition are
better, since the gasoline is less likely to be extinguished. Placing the canister of bottled gas on a bed of burning
charcoal soaked in gasoline would probably be the most effective way of securing ignition of the expanding gas,
since although the bursting of the gas container may blow out the flame of the gasoline, the burning charcoal should
immediately re-ignite it. Nitrous oxide, hydrogen, propane, acetylene, or any other flammable gas will do nicely.
During the recent gulf war, fuel/air bombs were touted as being second only to nuclear weapons in their devastating
effects. These are basically similar to the above devices, except that an explosive charge is used to rupture the fuel
container and disperse it over a wide area. A second charge is used to detonate the fuel. The reaction is said to
produce a massive shockwave and to burn all the oxygen in a large area, causing suffocation.
Another benefit of a fuel-air explosive is that the gas will seep into fortified bunkers and other partially-sealed spaces,
so a large bomb placed in a building would result in the destruction of the majority of surrounding rooms, rendering it
structurally unsound.
2 04.Dry Ice by Exodus
There is no standard formula for a dry ice bomb, however a generic form is as follows:
Take a 2-liter soda bottle, empty it completely, then add about 3/4 Lb of Dry Ice (crushed works best) and (optional) a
quantity of water.
Depending on the condition of the bottle, the weather, and the amount and temperature of the bottle the bomb will go
off in 30 seconds - 5 minutes. Without any water added, the 2-liter bottles will go often in 3-7 minutes if dropped into
a warm river, and in 45 minutes to 1 « hours in open air.
The explosion sounds equivalent to an M-100. _Plastic_ 16 oz. soda bottles and 1 liter bottles work almost as well as
do the 2-liters, however glass bottles aren't nearly as loud, and can produce dangerous shrapnel.
Remember, these are LOUD! A classmate of mine set up 10 bottles in a nearby park without adding water. After the
first two went off (there was about 10 minutes between explosions) the Police arrived and spent the next hour trying
to find the guy who they thought was setting off M-100's all around them...
USES FOR DRY ICE
Time Bombs:
1.Get a small plastic container with lid (we used the small plastic cans that hold the coasters used for large-format
Polaroid film). A film canister would probably work; the key is, it should seal tightly and take a fair amount of
effort to open). Place a chunk of dry ice in the can, put on the lid without quite sealing it. Put the assembled
bomb in your pocket, or behind your back. Approach the mark and engage in normal conversation. When his
attention is drawn away, quickly seal the lid on the bomb, deposit it somewhere within a few feet of the mark, out
of obvious sight, then leave. Depending on variables (you'll want to experiment first), you'll hear a loud "pop" and
an even louder "Aarrgghhh!" within a minute, when the COý pressure becomes sufficient to blow off the lid. In a
cluttered lab, this is doubly nasty because the mark will probably never figure out what made the noise.
2.Put 2-3 inches of water in a 2-liter plastic pop bottle. Put in as many chunks of dry ice as possible before the smoke
gets too thick. Screw on the cap, place in an appropriate area, and run like hell. After about a minute (your
mileage may vary), a huge explosion will result, spraying water everywhere, along with what's left of the 2-liter
bottle.
More things to do with Dry Ice:
Has anyone ever thrown dry ice into a public pool? As long as you chuck it into the bottom of the deep end, it's safe,
and it's really impressive if the water is warm enough
"Fun stuff. It SCREAMS when it comes into contact with metal..."
"You can safely hold a small piece of dry ice in your mouth if you
KEEP IT MOVING CONSTANTLY. It looks like you're smoking or on fire."
Editor's Note: Dry ice can be a lot of fun, but be forewarned:
Using anything but plastic to contain dry ice bombs is suicidal. Dry ice is more dangerous than TNT, because it's
extremely unpredictable. Even a 2-liter bottle can produce some nasty shrapnel: One source tells me that he caused
an explosion with a 2-liter bottle that destroyed a metal garbage can. In addition, it is rumored that several kids have
been killed by shards of glass resulting from the use of a glass bottle. For some reason, dry ice bombs have become
very popular in the state of Utah. As a result, dry ice bombs have been classified as infernal devices, and possession
is a criminal offense.
2 05.Fuses / Ignitors / Delays by Exodus
There are many ways to ignite explosive devices. There is the classic "light the fuse, throw the bomb, and run"
approach, and there are sensitive mercury switches, and many things in between. Generally, electrical detonation
systems are safer than fuses, but there are times when fuses are more appropriate than electrical systems; it is
difficult to carry an electrical detonation system into a stadium, for instance, without being caught. A device with a
fuse or impact detonating fuze would be easier to hide.
FUSE IGNITION
The oldest form of explosive ignition, fuses are perhaps the favorite type of simple ignition system. By simply placing
a piece of waterproof fuse in a device, one can have almost guaranteed ignition. Modern waterproof fuse is extremely
reliable, burning at a rate of about 2« seconds to the inch. It is available as model rocketry fuse in most hobby shops,
and costs about $3.00 for a nine-foot length. Cannon Fuse is a popular ignition system for pipe bombers because of
its simplicity. All that need be done is light it with a match or lighter. Of course, if the Army had fuses like this, then
the grenade, which uses fuse ignition, would be very impractical. If a grenade ignition system can be acquired, by all
means, it is the most effective. But, since such things do not just float around, the next best thing is to prepare a fuse
system which does not require the use of a match or lighter, but still retains its simplicity. One such method is
described below:
MATERIALS:
Strike-on-Cover type Matches
Electrical Tape -or- Duct Tape
Waterproof Fuse
1.To determine the burn rate of a particular type of fuse, simply measure a 6 inch or longer piece of fuse and ignite it.
With a stopwatch, press the start button the at the instant when the fuse lights, and stop the watch when the fuse
reaches its end. Divide the time of burn by the length of fuse, and you have the burn rate of the fuse, in seconds
per inch. This will be shown below:
Suppose an eight inch piece of fuse is burned, and its complete time of combustion is 20 seconds.
20 seconds / 8 inches = 2« seconds per inch.
If a delay of 10 seconds was desired with this fuse, divide the desired time by the number of seconds per inch:
10 seconds / 2« seconds per inch = 4 inches
NOTE: THE LENGTH OF FUSE HERE MEANS LENGTH OF FUSE TO THE POWDER. SOME FUSE, AT LEAST AN
INCH, SHOULD BE INSIDE THE DEVICE. ALWAYS ADD THIS EXTRA INCH, AND PUT THIS EXTRA INCH AN
INCH INTO THE DEVICE!!!
2.After deciding how long a delay is desired before the explosive device is to go off, add about « an inch to the
premeasured amount of fuse, and cut it off.
3.Carefully remove the cardboard matches from the paper match case. Do not pull off individual matches; keep all
the matches attached to the cardboard base. Take one of the cardboard match sections, and leave the other one
to make a second igniter.
4.Wrap the matches around the end of the fuse, with the heads of the matches touching the very end of the fuse.
Tape them there securely, making sure not to put tape over the match heads. Make sure they are very secure by
pulling on them at the base of the assembly. They should not be able to move.
5.Wrap the cover of the matches around the matches attached to the fuse, making sure that the striker paper is
below the match heads and the striker faces the match heads. Tape the paper so that is fairly tight around the
matches. Do not tape the cover of the striker to the fuse or to the matches. Leave enough of the match book to
pull on for ignition.
_____________________
\ /
\ / ------ match book cover
\ /
| M|f|M ---|------- match head
| A|u|A |
| T|s|T |
| C|e|C |
|tapeH|.|Htape|
| |f| |
|#####|u|#####|-------- striking paper
|#####|s|#####|
\ |e| /
\ |.| /
\ |f| /
\ |u| /
|ta|s|pe|
|ta|e|pe|
|.|
|.|
|_|
The match book is wrapped around the matches, and is taped to itself. The matches are taped to the fuse. The
striker will rub against the matcheads when the match book is pulled.
6.When ready to use, simply pull on the match paper. It should pull the striking paper across the match heads with
enough friction to light them. In turn, the burning matcheads will light the fuse, since it adjacent to the burning
match heads.
HOW TO MAKE BLACKMATCH FUSE:
Take a flat piece of plastic or metal (brass or aluminum are easy to work with and won't rust). Drill a 1/16th inch hole
through it. This is your die for sizing the fuse. You can make fuses as big as you want, but this is the right size for the
pipe bomb I will be getting to later.
To about « cup of black powder add water to make a thin paste. Add « teaspoon of corn starch. Cut some one foot
lengths of cotton thread. Use cotton, not silk or thread made from synthetic fibers. Put these together until you have a
thickness that fills the hole in the die but can be drawn through very easily.
Tie your bundle of threads together at one end. Separate the threads and hold the bundle over the black powder
mixture. Lower the threads with a circular motion so they start curling onto the mixture. Press them under with the
back of a teaspoon and continue lowering them so they coil into the paste. Take the end you are holding and thread it
through the die. Pull it through smoothly in one long motion.
To dry your fuse, lay it on a piece of aluminum foil and bake it in your 250ø oven or tie it to a grill in the oven and let it
hang down. The fuse must be baked to make it stiff enough for the uses it will be put to later. Air drying will not do the
job. If you used Sodium Nitrate, it will not even dry completely at room temperatures.
Cut the dry fuse with scissors into 2 inch lengths and store in an air tight container. Handle this fuse carefully to avoid
breaking it. You can also use a firecracker fuse if you have any available. The fuses can usually be pulled out without
breaking. To give yourself some running time, you will be extending these fuses (blackmatch or firecracker fuse) with
sulfured wick.
Finally, it is possible to make a relatively slow-burning fuse in the home. By dissolving about one teaspoon of black
powder in about 1/4 a cup of boiling water, and, while it is still hot, soaking in it a long piece of all cotton string, a
slow-burning fuse can be made. After the soaked string dries, it must then be tied to the fuse of an explosive device.
Sometimes, the end of the slow burning fuse that meets the normal fuse has a charge of black powder or gunpowder
at the intersection point to insure ignition, since the slow-burning fuse does not burn at a very high temperature.
A similar type of slow fuse can be made by taking the above mixture of boiling water and black powder and pouring it
on a long piece of toilet paper. The wet toilet paper is then gently twisted up so that it resembles a firecracker fuse,
and is allowed to dry.
HOW TO MAKE SULFURED WICK
Use heavy cotton string about 1/8th inch in diameter. You can find some at a garden supply for tying up your
tomatoes. Be sure it's cotton. You can test it by lighting one end. It should continue to burn after the match is
removed and when blown out will have a smoldering coal on the end. Put some sulfur in a small container like a
small pie pan and melt it in the oven at 250ø.
It will melt into a transparent yellow liquid. If it starts turning brown, it is too hot. Coil about a one foot length of string
into it. The melted sulfur will soak in quickly. When saturated, pull it out and tie it up to cool and harden.
It can be cut to desired lengths with scissors. 2 inches is about right. These wicks will burn slowly with a blue flame
and do not blow out easily in a moderate wind. They will not burn through a hole in a metal pipe, but are great for
extending your other fuse. They will not throw off sparks. Blackmatch generates sparks which can ignite it along its
length causing unpredictable burning times.
---IMPACT IGNITION---
Impact ignition is an excellent method of ignition for spontaneous terrorist activities. The problem with an impactdetonating
device is that it must be kept in a very safe container so that it will not explode while being transported to
the place where it is to be used. This can be done by having a removable impact initiator.
The best and most reliable impact initiator is one that uses factory made initiators or primers. A No. 11 cap for black
powder firearms is one such primer. They usually come in boxes of 100, and cost about $2«0. To use such a cap,
however, one needs a nipple that it will fit on. Black powder nipples are also available in gun stores. All that a person
has to do is ask for a package of nipples and the caps that fit them. Nipples have a hole that goes all the way
through them, and they have a threaded end, and an end to put the cap on. A cutaway of a nipple is shown below:
________________
| |
_ | |
| | |/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\|
_______| |^^^^^^^|
| ___________|
| |
No. 11 |_______|
percussion _______ ------- Threads for screwing
cap :
here |__________ nipple onto bomb
|____ |
| |^^^^^^^^^|
|_| |/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/|
| |
|_________________|
When making using this type of initiator, a hole must be drilled into whatever container is used to make the bomb out
of. The nipple is then screwed into the hole so that it fits tightly. Then, the cap can be carried and placed on the bomb
when it is to be thrown. The cap should be bent a small amount before it is placed on the nipple, to make sure that it
stays in place. The only other problem involved with an impact detonating bomb is that it must strike a hard surface
on the nipple to set it off. By attaching fins or a small parachute on the end of the bomb opposite the primer, the
bomb, when thrown, should strike the ground on the primer, and explode. Of course, a bomb with mercury fulminate
in each end will go off on impact regardless of which end it strikes on, but mercury fulminate is also likely to go off if
the person carrying the bomb is bumped hard.
---MAGICUBE IGNITOR---
A VERY SENSITIVE and reliable impact initiator can be produced from the common MAGICUBE ($2.40 for 12) type
flashbulbs. Simply crack the plastic cover off, remove the reflector, and you will see 4 bulbs, each of which has a
small metal rod holding it in place.
CAREFULLY grasp this rod with a pair of needle-nose pliers, and pry gently upwards, making sure that NO FORCE
IS APPLIED TO THE GLASS BULB.
Each bulb is coated with plastic, which must be removed for them to be effective in our application. This coating can
be removed by soaking the bulbs in a small glass of acetone for 30-45 minutes, at which point the plastic can be
easily peeled away.
The best method to use these is to dissolve some nitrocellulose based smokeless powder in acetone and/or ether,
forming a thick glue-like paste. Coat the end of the fuse with this paste, then stick the bulb (with the metal rod facing
out) into the paste. About half the bulb should be completely covered, and if a VERY THIN layer of nitrocellulose is
coated over the remainder then ignition should be very reliable.
To insure that the device lands with the bulb down, a small streamer can be attached to the opposite side, so when it
is tossed high into the air the appropriate end will hit the ground first.
---ELECTRICAL IGNITION---
Electrical ignition systems for detonation are usually the safest and most reliable form of ignition. Electrical systems
are ideal for demolition work, if one doesn't have to worry so much about being caught. With two spools of 500 ft of
wire and a car battery, one can detonate explosives from a "safe", comfortable distance, and be sure that there is
nobody around that could get hurt. With an electrical system, one can control exactly what time a device will explode,
within fractions of a second. Detonation can be aborted in less than a second's warning, if a person suddenly walks
by the detonation sight, or if a police car chooses to roll by at the time. The two best electrical igniters are military
squibs and model rocketry igniters. Blasting caps for construction also work well. Model rocketry igniters are sold in
packages of six, and cost about $1.00 per pack. All that need be done to use them is connect it to two wires and run
a current through them. Military squibs are difficult to get, but they are a little bit better, since they explode when a
current is run through them, whereas rocketry igniters only burst into flame. Most squibs will NOT detonate
KClO3/petroleum jelly or RDX. This requires a blasting cap type detonation in most cases. There are, however,
military explosive squibs which will do the job.
Igniters can be used to set off black powder, mercury fulminate, or guncotton, which in turn, can set of a high order
explosive.
---HOW TO MAKE AN ELECTRIC FUZE---
By Capt. Hack & GW
Take a flashlight bulb and place it glass tip down on a file. Grind it down on the file until there is a hole in the end.
Solder one wire to the case of the bulb and another to the center conductor at the end. Fill the bulb with black powder
or powdered match head. One or two flashlight batteries will heat the filament in the bulb causing the powder to
ignite.
---ANOTHER ELECTRIC FUZE---
Take a medium grade of steel wool and pull a strand out of it. Attach it to the ends of two pieces of copper wire by
wrapping it around a few turns and then pinch on a small piece of solder to bind the strand to the wire. You want
about « inch of steel strand between the wires. Number 18 or 20 is a good size wire to use.
Cut a « by 1 inch piece of cardboard of the type used in match covers. Place a small pile of powdered match head in
the center and press it flat. Place the wires so the steel strand is on top of and in contact with the powder. Sprinkle on
more powder to cover the strand.
The strand should be surrounded with powder and not touching anything else except the wires at its ends. Place a
piece of blackmatch in contact with the powder. Now put a piece of masking tape on top of the lot, and fold it under
on the two ends. Press it down so it sticks all around the powder. The wires are sticking out on one side and the
blackmatch on the other.
A single flashlight battery will set this off.
---ELECTRO-MECHANICAL IGNITION---
Electro-mechanical ignition systems are systems that use some type of mechanical switch to set off an explosive
charge electrically. This type of switch is typically used in booby traps or other devices in which the person who
places the bomb does not wish to be anywhere near the device when it explodes. Several types of electromechanical
detonators will be discussed
---Mercury Switches---
Mercury switches are a switch that uses the fact that mercury metal conducts electricity, as do all metals, but mercury
metal is a liquid at room temperatures. A typical mercury switch is a sealed glass tube with two electrodes and a
bead of mercury metal. It is sealed because of mercury's nasty habit of giving off brain-damaging vapors. The
diagram below may help to explain a mercury switch.
______________
A / \ B
_____wire +______/_________ \
\ ( Hg )| /
\ _(_Hg___)|___/
|
|
wire - |
|
|
When the drop of mercury ("Hg" is mercury's atomic symbol) touches both contacts, current flows through the switch.
If this particular switch was in its present position, A---B, current would be flowing, since the mercury can touch both
contacts in the horizontal position.
If, however, it was in the | position, the drop of mercury would only touch the + contact on the A side. Current, then
couldn't flow, since mercury does not reach both contacts when the switch is in the vertical position. This type of
switch is ideal to place by a door. If it were placed in the path of a swinging door in the vertical position, the motion of
the door would knock the switch down, if it was held to the ground by a piece if tape. This would tilt the switch into the
vertical position, causing the mercury to touch both contacts, allowing current to flow through the mercury, and to the
igniter or squib in an explosive device.
---Tripwire Switches---
A tripwire is an element of the classic booby trap. By placing a nearly invisible line of string or fishing line in the
probable path of a victim, and by putting some type of trap there also, nasty things can be caused to occur. If this
mode of thought is applied to explosives, how would one use such a tripwire to detonate a bomb. The technique is
simple. By wrapping the tips of a standard clothespin with aluminum foil, and placing something between them, and
connecting wires to each aluminum foil contact, an electric tripwire can be made, If a piece of wood attached to the
tripwire was placed between the contacts on the clothespin, the clothespin would serve as a switch. When the
tripwire was pulled, the clothespin would snap together, allowing current to flow between the two pieces of aluminum
foil, thereby completing a circuit, which would have the igniter or squib in it. Current would flow between the contacts
to the igniter or squib, heat the igniter or squib, causing it to explode. Make sure that the aluminum foil contacts do
not touch the spring, since the spring also conducts electricity.
---Radio Control Detonators---
In the movies, every terrorist or criminal uses a radio controlled detonator to set off explosives. With a good radio
detonator, one can be several miles away from the device, and still control exactly when it explodes, in much the
same way as an electrical switch. The problem with radio detonators is that they are rather costly. However, there
could possibly be a reason that a terrorist would wish to spend the amounts of money involved with a RC (radio
control) system and use it as a detonator. If such an individual wanted to devise an RC detonator, all he would need
to do is visit the local hobby store or toy store, and buy a radio controlled toy. Taking it back to his/her abode, all that
he/she would have to do is detach the solenoid/motor that controls the motion of the front wheels of a RC car, or
detach the solenoid/motor of the elevators/rudder of a RC plane, or the rudder of a RC boat, and re-connect the
squib or rocket engine igniter to the contacts for the solenoid/motor. The device should be tested several times with
squibs or igniters, and fully charged batteries should be in both he controller and the receiver (the part that used to
move parts before the device became a detonator).
---DELAYS---
A delay is a device which causes time to pass from when a device is set up to the time that it explodes. A regular
fuse is a delay, but it would cost quite a bit to have a 24 hour delay with a fuse. This section deals with the different
types of delays that can be employed by a terrorist who wishes to be sure that his bomb will go off, but wants to be
out of the country when it does.
---FUSE DELAYS---
It is extremely simple to delay explosive devices that employ fuses for ignition. Perhaps the simplest way to do so is
with a cigarette. An average cigarette burns for between 8-11 minutes. The higher the "tar" and nicotine rating, the
slower the cigarette burns. Low "tar" and nicotine cigarettes burn quicker than the higher "tar" and nicotine cigarettes,
but they are also less likely to go out if left unattended, i.e. not smoked. Depending on the wind or draft in a given
place, a high "tar" cigarette is better for delaying the ignition of a fuse, but there must be enough wind or draft to give
the cigarette enough oxygen to burn. People who use cigarettes for the purpose of delaying fuses will often test the
cigarettes that they plan to use in advance to make sure they stay lit and to see how long it will burn. Once a
cigarettes burn rate is determined, it is a simple matter of carefully putting a hole all the way through a cigarette with
a toothpick at the point desired, and pushing the fuse for a device in the hole formed.
|=|
|=| ---------- filter
|=|
| |
| |
|o| ---------- hole for fuse
cigarette ------------ | |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
|_| ---------- light this end
---TIMER DELAYS---
Timer delays, or "time bombs" are usually employed by an individual who wishes to threaten a place with a bomb and
demand money to reveal its location and means to disarm it. Such a device could be placed in any populated place if
it were concealed properly. There are several ways to build a timer delay. By simply using a screw as one contact at
the time that detonation is desired, and using the hour hand of a clock as the other contact, a simple timer can be
made. The minute hand of a clock should be removed, unless a delay of less than an hour is desired.
The main disadvantage with this type of timer is that it can only be set for a maximum time of 12 hours. If an
electronic timer is used, such as that in an electronic clock, then delays of up to 24 hours are possible. By removing
the speaker from an electronic clock, and attaching the wires of a squib or igniter to them, a timer with a delay of up
to 24 hours can be made. All that one has to do is set the alarm time of the clock to the desired time, connect the
leads, and go away. This could also be done with an electronic watch, if a larger battery were used, and the current
to the speaker of the watch was stepped up via a transformer. This would be good, since such a timer could be
extremely small.
The timer in a VCR (Video Cassette Recorder) would be ideal. VCR's can usually be set for times of up to a week.
The leads from the timer to the recording equipment would be the ones that an igniter or squib would be connected
to. Also, one can buy timers from electronics stores that would be work well. Finally, one could employ a digital
watch, and use a relay, or electro-magnetic switch to fire the igniter, and the current of the watch would not have to
be stepped up.
---CHEMICAL DELAYS---
Chemical delays are uncommon, but they can be extremely effective in some cases. These were often used in the
bombs the Germans dropped on England. The delay would ensure that a bomb would detonate hours or even days
after the initial bombing raid, thereby increasing the terrifying effect on the British citizenry.
If a glass container is filled with concentrated sulfuric acid, and capped with several thicknesses of aluminum foil, or a
cap that it will eat through, then it can be used as a delay. Sulfuric acid will react with aluminum foil to produce
aluminum sulfate and hydrogen gas, and so the container must be open to the air on one end so that the pressure of
the hydrogen gas that is forming does not break the container.
_ _
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| |_____________| |
| | | |
| | sulfuric | |
| | | |
| | acid | |
| | | |---------- aluminum foil
| |_____________| | (several thicknesses)
|_________________|
The aluminum foil is placed over the bottom of the container and secured there with tape. When the acid eats
through the aluminum foil, it can be used to ignite an explosive device in several ways.
1.Sulfuric acid is a good conductor of electricity. If the acid that eats through the foil is collected in a glass container
placed underneath the foil, and two wires are placed in the glass container, a current will be able to flow through
the acid when both of the wires are immersed in the acid.
2.Sulfuric acid reacts very violently with potassium chlorate. If the acid drips down into a container containing
potassium chlorate, the potassium chlorate will burst into flame. This flame can be used to ignite a fuse, or the
potassium chlorate can be the igniter for a thermite bomb, if some potassium chlorate is mixed in a 50/50 ratio
with the thermite, and this mixture is used as an igniter for the rest of the thermite.
3.Sulfuric acid reacts with potassium permanganate in a similar way.
2 06.Film Canisters II by Bill
For a relatively low shrapnel explosion, I suggest pouring it into an empty 35mm film canister. Poke a hole in the
plastic lid for a fuse. These goodies make an explosion audible a mile away easily.
1.Poke the hole before putting the flash powder into the canister.
2.Don't get any powder on the lip of the canister.
3.Only use a very small quantity and work your way up to the desired result.
4.Do not pack the powder, it works best loose.
5.Do not grind or rub the mixture - it is friction sensitive.
6.Use a long fuse.
2 07.Book Bombs by Exodus
Concealing a bomb can be extremely difficult in a day and age where perpetrators of violence run wild. Bags and
briefcases are often searched by authorities whenever one enters a place where an individual might intend to set off
a bomb. One approach to disguising a bomb is to build what is called a book bomb; an explosive device that is
entirely contained inside of a book.
Usually, a relatively large book is required, and the book must be of the hardback variety to hide any protrusions of a
bomb. Dictionaries, law books, large textbooks, and other such books work well. When an individual makes a
bookbomb, he/she must choose a type of book that is appropriate for the place where the book bomb will be placed.
The actual construction of a book bomb can be done by anyone who possesses an electric drill and a coping saw.
First, all of the pages of the book must be glued together. By pouring an entire container of water-soluble glue into a
large bucket, and filling the bucket with boiling water, a glue-water solution can be made that will hold all of the book's
pages together tightly. After the glue-water solution has cooled to a bearable temperature, and the solution has been
stirred well, the pages of the book must be immersed in the glue-water solution, and each page must be thoroughly
soaked.
It is extremely important that the covers of the book do not get stuck to the pages of the book while the pages are
drying. Suspending the book by both covers and clamping the pages together in a vise works best. When the pages
dry, after about three days to a week, a hole must be drilled into the now rigid pages, and they should drill out much
like wood. Then, by inserting the coping saw blade through the pages and sawing out a rectangle from the middle of
the book, the individual will be left with a shell of the book's pages. The pages, when drilled out, should look like this:
________________________
| ____________________ |
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| |__________________| |
|______________________|
(Book covers omitted)
This rectangle must be securely glued to the back cover of the book. After building his/her bomb, which usually is of
the timer or radio controlled variety, the bomber places it inside the book. The bomb itself, and whatever timer or
detonator is used, should be packed in foam to prevent it from rolling or shifting about. Finally, after the timer is set,
or the radio control has been turned on, the front cover is glued closed, and the bomb is taken to its destination.
2 08.Phone Bombs by Exodus
The phone bomb is an explosive device that has been used in the past to kill or injure a specific individual. The basic
idea is simple: when the person answers the phone, the bomb explodes. If a small but powerful high explosive device
with a squib was placed in the phone receiver, when the current flowed through the receiver, the squib would
explode, detonating the high explosive in the person's hand. Nasty. All that has to be done is acquire a squib, and
tape the receiver switch down.
Unscrew the mouthpiece cover, and remove the speaker, and connect the squib's leads where it was. Place a high
explosive putty, such as C-1 in the receiver, and screw the cover on, making sure that the squib is surrounded by the
C-1. Hang the phone up, and leave the tape in place.
When the individual to whom the phone belongs attempts to answer the phone, he will notice the tape, and remove it.
This will allow current to flow through the squib. Note that the device will not explode by merely making a phone call;
the owner of the phone must lift up the receiver, and remove the tape. It is highly probable that the phone will be by
his/her ear when the device explodes...
IMPROVED PHONE BOMB
The above seems overly complicated to me... it would be better to rig the device as follows:
FIRST UNPLUG THE PHONE FROM THE WALL. Wire the detonator IN LINE with the wires going to the earpiece,
(may need to wire it with a relay so the detonator can receive the full line power, not just the audio power to the
earpiece)
Pack C4 into the phone body (NOT the handset) and plug it back in. When they pick up the phone, power will flow
through the circuit to the detonator....
________
/|------|\
~ | | ~
@@@@@@@@
@@@@@@@@@@
@@@@@@@@@@
2 09.SPECIAL AMMUNITION by Exodus
SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR BLOWGUNS
The blowgun is an interesting weapon which has several advantages. A blowgun can be extremely accurate,
concealable, and deliver an explosive or poisoned projectile. The manufacture of an explosive dart or projectile is not
difficult. To acquire a blowgun, please contact the editor at one of the addresses given in the introduction.
Perhaps the most simple design for such involves the use of a pill capsule, such as the kind that are taken for
headaches or allergies. Empty gelatin pill capsules can be purchased from most health-food stores. Next, the
capsule would be filled with an impact-sensitive explosive, such as mercury fulminate. An additional high explosive
charge could be placed behind the impact sensitive explosive, if one of the larger capsules were used.
Finally, the explosive capsule would be reglued back together, and a tassel or cotton would be glued to the end
containing the high explosive, to insure that the impact-detonating explosive struck the target first.
Such a device would probably be about 3/4 of an inch long, not including the tassel or cotton, and look something like
this:
____________________
/mercury | \-----------------------
(fulminate| R.D.X. )---------------------- } tassels
\________|___________/-----------------------
Care must be taken- if a powerful dart went off in the blowgun, you could easily blow the back of your head off.
SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR WRISTROCKETS AND SLINGSHOTS
A modern wristrocket is a formidable weapon. It can throw a shooter marble about 500 ft. with reasonable accuracy.
Inside of 200 ft., it could well be lethal to a man or animal, if it struck in a vital area. Because of the relatively large
sized projectile that can be used in a wristrocket, the wristrocket can be adapted to throw relatively powerful explosive
projectiles.
A small segment of aluminum pipe could be made into an impact-detonating device by filling it with an impactsensitive
explosive material.
Also, such a pipe could be filled with a low-order explosive, and fitted with a fuse, which would be lit before the device
was shot. One would have to make sure that the fuse was of sufficient length to insure that the device did not explode
before it reached its intended target.
Finally, .22 caliber caps, such as the kind that are used in .22 caliber blank guns, make excellent exploding
ammunition for wristrockets, but they must be used at a relatively close range, because of their light weight.
SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR FIREARMS
When special ammunition is used in combination with the power and rapidity of modern firearms, it becomes very
easy to take on a small army with a single weapon. It is possible to buy explosive ammunition, but that can be difficult
to do. Such ammunition can also be manufactured in the home. There is, however, a risk involved with modifying any
ammunition. If the ammunition is modified incorrectly, in such a way that it makes the bullet even the slightest bit
wider, an explosion in the barrel of the weapon will occur. For this reason, NOBODY SHOULD EVER ATTEMPT TO
MANUFACTURE SUCH AMMUNITION.
SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR HANDGUNS
If an individual wished to produce explosive ammunition for his/her handgun, he/she could do it, provided that the
person had an impact-sensitive explosive and a few simple tools. One would first purchase all lead bullets, and then
make or acquire an impact-detonating explosive. By drilling a hole in a lead bullet with a drill, a space could be
created for the placement of an explosive. After filling the hole with an explosive, it would be sealed in the bullet with
a drop of hot wax from a candle. A diagram of a completed exploding bullet is shown below.
_o_ ------------ drop of wax
/|*|\
| |*|-|----------- impact-sensitive explosive
| |_| |
|_____|
This hollow space design also works for putting poison in bullets.
In many spy thrillers, an assassin is depicted as manufacturing "exploding bullets" by placing a drop of mercury in the
nose of a bullet. Through experimentation it has been found that this will not work. Mercury reacts with lead to form a
inert silvery compound.
SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR SHOTGUNS
Because of their large bore and high power, it is possible to create some extremely powerful special ammunition for
use in shotguns. If a shotgun shell is opened at the top, and the shot removed, the shell can be re-closed. Then, if
one can find a very smooth, lightweight wooden dowel that is close to the bore width of the shotgun, a person can
make several types of shotgun-launched weapons.
Insert the dowel in the barrel of the shotgun with the shell without the shot in the firing chamber. Mark the dowel
about six inches away from the end of the barrel, and remove it from the barrel.
Next, decide what type of explosive or incendiary device is to be used. This device can be a chemical fire bottle, a
pipe bomb, or a thermite bomb. After the device is made, it must be securely attached to the dowel. When this is
done, place the dowel back in the shotgun. The bomb or incendiary device should be on the end of the dowel.
Make sure that the device has a long enough fuse, light the fuse, and fire the shotgun. If the projectile is not too
heavy, ranges of up to 300 ft are possible. A diagram of a shotgun projectile is shown below:
____
|| |
|| |
|| | ----- bomb, securely taped to dowel
|| |
||__|
|| |
|| | ------- fuse
|| |
||
||
||
|| --------- dowel
||
||
||
|| --------- insert this end into shotgun
||
||
Special "grenade-launcher blanks" should be used - use of regular blank ammunition may cause the device to land
perilously close to the user.
SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR COMPRESSED AIR/GAS WEAPONS
This section deals with the manufacture of special ammunition for compressed air or compressed gas weapons, such
as pump BB guns, COý BB guns, and .22 cal pellet guns. These weapons, although usually thought of as kids toys,
can be made into rather dangerous weapons.
SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR BB GUNS
A BB gun, for this manuscript, will be considered any type of rifle or pistol that uses compressed air or COý gas to fire
a projectile with a caliber of .177, either BB, or lead pellet. Such guns can have almost as high a muzzle velocity as a
bullet-firing rifle. Because of the speed at which a .177 caliber projectile flies, an impact detonating projectile can
easily be made that has a caliber of .177.
Most ammunition for guns of greater than .22 caliber use primers to ignite the powder in the bullet. These primers
can be bought at gun stores, since many people like to reload their own bullets. Such primers detonate when struck
by the firing pin of a gun. They will also detonate if they are thrown at a hard surface at a great speed.
Usually, they will also fit in the barrel of a .177 caliber gun. If they are inserted flat end first, they will detonate when
the gun is fired at a hard surface. If such a primer is attached to a piece of thin metal tubing, such as that used in an
antenna, the tube can be filled with an explosive, be sealed, and fired from a BB gun. A diagram of such a projectile
appears below:
_____ primers _______
| |
| |
| |
V V
______ ______
| ________________________ |-------------------
| ****** explosive ******* |------------------- } tassel or
| ________________________ |------------------- cotton
|_____ _____|-------------------
^
|
|
|_______ antenna tubing
The front primer is attached to the tubing with a drop of super glue. The tubing is then filled with an explosive, and the
rear primer is glued on. Finally, a tassel, or a small piece of cotton is glued to the rear primer, to insure that the
projectile strikes on the front primer. The entire projectile should be about 3/4 of an inch long.
SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR .22 CALIBER PELLET GUNS
A .22 caliber pellet gun usually is equivalent to a .22 cal rifle, at close ranges. Because of this, relatively large
explosive projectiles can be adapted for use with .22 caliber air rifles. A design similar to that used in the begining of
this document is suitable, since some capsules are about .22 caliber or smaller. Or, a design similar to that in this
document could be used, only one would have to purchase black powder percussion caps, instead of ammunition
primers, since there are percussion caps that are about .22 caliber. A #11 cap is too small, but anything larger will do
nicely.
2 10.Rocketry by Exodus
Rockets and cannon are generally thought of as heavy artillery. Perpetrators of violence do not usually employ such
devices, because they are difficult or impossible to acquire. They are not, however, impossible to make. Any
individual who can make or buy black powder or pyrodex can make such things. A terrorist with a cannon or large
rocket is, indeed, something to fear.
ROCKETS
Rockets were first developed by the Chinese several hundred years before the myth of Christ began. They were used
for entertainment in the form of fireworks. They were not usually used for military purposes because they were
inaccurate, expensive, and unpredictable. In modern times, however, rockets are used constantly by the military,
since they are cheap, reliable, and have no recoil. Perpetrators of violence, fortunately, cannot obtain military rockets,
but they can make or buy rocket engines. Model rocketry is a popular hobby of the space age, and to launch a
rocket, an engine is required. Estes, a subsidiary of Damon, is the leading manufacturer of model rockets and rocket
engines. Their most powerful engine, the "D" engine, can develop almost 12 lbs of thrust; enough to send a relatively
large explosive charge a significant distance. Other companies, such as Centuri, produce even larger rocket engines,
which develop up to 30 lbs of thrust. These model rocket engines are quite reliable, and are designed to be fired
electrically. Most model rocket engines have three basic sections. The diagram below will help explain them.
_________________________________________________________
|_________________________________________________________| -- cardboard
\ clay | - - - - - - - - - - | * * * | . . . .|c| casing
\_______| - - - - - - - - - | * * * | . . . |l|
_______ - - - thrust - - - | smoke | eject |a|
/ clay | - - - - - - - - - | * * * | . . . .|y|
/________|_____________________|_______|________|_|_______
|_________________________________________________________| -- cardboard
casing
The clay nozzle is where the igniter is inserted. When the area labeled "thrust" is ignited, the "thrust" material, usually
a large single grain of a propellant such as black powder or pyrodex, burns, forcing large volumes of hot, rapidly
expanding gasses out the narrow nozzle, pushing the rocket forward.
After the material has been consumed, the smoke section of the engine is ignited. It is usually a slow-burning
material, similar to black powder that has had various compounds added to it to produce visible smoke, usually black,
white, or yellow in color. This section exists so that the rocket will be seen when it reaches its maximum altitude, or
apogee.
When it is burned up, it ignites the ejection charge, labeled "eject". The ejection charge is finely powdered black
powder. It burns very rapidly, exploding, in effect. The explosion of the ejection charge pushes out the parachute of
the model rocket. It could also be used to ignite the fuse of a bomb...
Rocket engines have their own peculiar labeling system. Typical engine labels are: 1/4A-2T, 1/2A-3T, A8-3, B6-4, C6-
7, and D12-5. The letter is an indicator of the power of an engine. "B" engines are twice as powerful as "A" engines,
and "C" engines are twice as powerful as "B" engines, and so on. The number following the letter is the approximate
thrust of the engine, in pounds. the final number and letter is the time delay, from the time that the thrust period of
engine burn ends until the ejection charge fires; "3T" indicates a 3 second delay.
NOTE: An extremely effective rocket propellant can be made by mixing aluminum dust with ammonium perchlorate
and a very small amount of iron oxide. The mixture is bound together by an epoxy.
BASIC ROCKET BOMB
A rocket bomb is simply what the name implies: a bomb that is delivered to its target by means of a rocket. Most
people who would make such a device would use a model rocket engine to power the device. By cutting fins from
balsa wood and gluing them to a large rocket engine, such as the Estes "C" engine, a basic rocket could be
constructed. Then, by attaching a "crater maker", or COý cartridge bomb to the rocket, a bomb would be added. To
insure that the fuse of the "crater maker" ignited, the clay over the ejection charge of the engine should be scraped
off with a plastic tool. The fuse of the bomb should be touching the ejection charge, as shown below.
____________ rocket engine
| _________ crater maker
| |
| |
V |
_______________________________V_
|_______________________________| ______________________
\ | - - - - - -|***|::::| /# # # # # # # # # # # \
\__| - - - - - -|***|::::| ___/ # # # # # # # # # # # \
__ - - - - - -|***|::::|---fuse--- # # explosive # # )
/ | - - - - - -|***|::::| ___ # # # # # # # # # # # /
/___|____________|___|____|____ \_______________________/
|_______________________________|
thrust> - - - - - -
smoke> ***
ejection charge> ::::
Duct tape is the best way to attach the crater maker to the rocket engine. Note in the diagram the absence of the clay
over the ejection charge Many different types of explosive payloads can be attached to the rocket, such as a high
explosive, an incendiary device, or a chemical fire bottle.
Either four or three fins must be glued to the rocket engine to insure that the rocket flies straight. The fins should look
like the following diagram:
|\
| \
| \
| \ <--------- glue this to rocket engine
| \
| \
| \
| |
| |
| |
leading edge |
-------> |
| |
| | trailing edge
| | <--------
| |
| |
| |
| |
\_____/
The leading edge and trailing edge should be sanded with sandpaper so that they are rounded. This will help make
the rocket fly straight. A two inch long section of a plastic straw can be attached to the rocket to launch it from. A
clothes hanger can be cut and made into a launch rod. The segment of a plastic straw should be glued to the rocket
engine adjacent to one of the fins of the rocket. A front view of a completed rocket bomb is shown below.
|
fin | <------ fin
| | |
| | |
| __|__ |
V / \ V
---------------| |---------------
\_____/
|o <----------- segment of plastic straw
|
|
| <------ fin
|
|
By cutting a coat hanger at the indicated arrows, and bending it, a launch rod can be made. After a fuse is inserted
in the engine, the rocket is simply slid down the launch rod, which is put through the segment of plastic straw. The
rocket should slide easily along a coathanger, such as the one illustrated on the following page:
____
/ \
| |
cut here _____ |
| |
| |
| / \
V / \
_________________/ \________________
/ \
/ \
/____________________________________________\
^
|
|
and here ______|
Bend wire to this shape:
_______ insert into straw
|
|
|
V
____________________________________________
\
\
\
\
\ <--------- bend here to adjust flight angle
|
|
|
|
|
| <---------- put this end in ground
|
LONG RANGE ROCKET BOMB
Long range rockets can be made by using multi-stage rockets. Model rocket engines with an "0" for a time delay are
designed for use in multi-stage rockets. An engine such as the D12-0 is an excellent example of such an engine.
Immediately after the thrust period is over, the ejection charge explodes. If another engine is placed directly against
the back of an "0" engine, the explosion of the ejection charge will send hot gasses and burning particles into the
nozzle of the engine above it, and ignite the thrust section. This will push the used "0" engine off of the rocket,
causing an overall loss of weight.
The main advantage of a multi-stage rocket is that it loses weight as travels, and it gains velocity. Multi-stage rockets
must be designed somewhat differently than a single stage rocket, since, in order for a rockets to fly straight, their
center of gravity must be ahead of their center of drag. This is accomplished by adding weight to the front of the
rocket, or by moving the center of drag back by putting fins on the rocket that are well behind the rocket. A diagram of
a multi-stage rocket appears on the following page:
___
/ \
| |
| C |
| M | ------ CM: Crater Maker
| |
| |
|___|
| |
| |
| |
| C | ------ C6-5 rocket engine
/| 6 |\
/ | | | \
/ | 5 | \
/ |___| \ ---- fin
/ /| |\ \
/ / | | \ \
/ / | | \ \
/ / | C | \ \
| / | 6 | \ |
| / | | | \ |
| / | 0 | \ |
|/ |___| \|
| / \ |
\______/ ^ \______/ ------- fin
|
|
|
|
C6-0 rocket engine
The fuse is put in the bottom engine.
Two, three, or even four stages can be added to a rocket bomb to give it a longer range. It is important, however,
that for each additional stage, the fin area gets larger.
2 11.Basic Pipe Cannon by Exodus
A simple cannon can be made from a thick pipe by almost anyone. The only difficult part is finding a pipe that is
extremely smooth on its interior. This is absolutely necessary; otherwise, the projectile may jam. Copper or aluminum
piping is usually smooth enough, but it must also be extremely thick to withstand the pressure developed by the
expanding hot gasses in a cannon.
If one uses a projectile such as a COý cartridge, since such a projectile can be made to explode, a pipe that is about
1« - 2 feet long is ideal. Such a pipe MUST have walls that are at least 1/3 to « an inch thick, and be very smooth on
the interior. If possible, screw an endplug into the pipe. Otherwise, the pipe must be crimped and folded closed,
without cracking or tearing the pipe. A small hole is drilled in the back of the pipe near the crimp or endplug. Then, all
that need be done is fill the pipe with about two teaspoons of grade blackpowder or pyrodex, insert a fuse, pack it
lightly by ramming a wad of tissue paper down the barrel, and drop in a COý cartridge. Brace the cannon securely
against a strong structure, light the fuse, and run. If the person is lucky, he will not have overcharged the cannon, and
he will not be hit by pieces of exploding barrel. Such a cannon would look like this:
__________________ fuse hole
|
|
V
________________________________________________________________
| |_____________________________________________________________|
|endplug|powder|t.p.| COý cartridge
| ______|______|____|____________________________________________
|_|______________________________________________________________|
An exploding projectile can be made for this type of cannon with a COý cartridge. It is relatively simple to do. Just
make a crater maker, and construct it such that the fuse projects about an inch from the end of the cartridge. Then,
wrap the fuse with duct tape, covering it entirely, except for a small amount at the end. Put this in the pipe cannon
without using a tissue paper packing wad.
When the cannon is fired, it will ignite the end of the fuse, and shoot the COý cartridge. The explosive-filled cartridge
will explode in about three seconds, if all goes well. Such a projectile would look like this:
___
( )
|C |
| M|
| |
| |
\ /
[] <--- taped fuse
[]
[]
! <--- Bare fuse (add matcheads)
ROCKET FIRING CANNON
A rocket firing cannon can be made exactly like a normal cannon; the only difference is the ammunition. A rocket
fired from a cannon will fly further than a rocket alone, since the action of shooting it overcomes the initial inertia. A
rocket that is launched when it is moving will go further than one that is launched when it is stationary. Such a rocket
would resemble a normal rocket bomb, except it would have no fins. It would look like the image below. The fuse on
such a device would, obviously, be short, but it would not be ignited until the rocket's ejection charge exploded. Thus,
the delay before the ejection charge, in effect, becomes the delay before the bomb explodes. Note that no fuse need
be put in the rocket; the burning powder in the cannon will ignite it, and simultaneously push the rocket out of the
cannon at a high velocity.
___
/ \
| |
| C |
| M |
| |
| |
|___|
| E |
| N |
| G |
| I |
| N |
| E |
|___|
REINFORCED PIPE CANNON
In high school, a friend and I built cannons and launched COý cartridges, etc, etc. However, the design of the cannon
is what I want to add here. It was made from plain steel water pipe, steel wire, and lead.
Here is a cross section:
_______
| |
| xxxxx_____________________________________________ 2" ID pipe
| |_________________________________________________
| | .................... <- steel wire }
| | _____ } 3/4" ID pipe
this | | | xxx______________________________________}_________________
wire | | | |__________________________________________________________
holds | |....| |
it up |>|....| |
in the| | | |__________________________________________________________
cooker| | | xxx________________________________________________________
| | |____ }
| | ..................... } <- cast lead
| |_______________________________________________}_
| | _____________________________________________
| xxxxx
|_____|
We dug into the side of a sand pile and built a chimney out of firebrick. Then we stood the assembled pipe and wire
on end in the chimney, sitting on some bricks. We then had a blowtorch heating up the chimney, so that the pipe was
red hot. Then we poured molten lead into the space between the pipes. If the caps aren't screwed on real tight, some
of the lead will leak out. If that happens, turn off the blowtorch and the pipe will cool enough and the lead will stiffen
and stop the leak.
We used homemade and commercial black powder, and slow smokeless shotgun powder in this thing. After
hundreds of shots we cut it up and there was no evidence of cracks or swelling of the inner pipe.
2 12.Smoke Bombs by Exodus
One type of pyrotechnic device that might be employed by a terrorist in many way would be a smoke bomb. Such a
device could conceal the getaway route, or cause a diversion, or simply provide cover. Such a device, were it to
produce enough smoke that smelled bad enough, could force the evacuation of a building, for example. Smoke
bombs are not difficult to make. Although the military smoke bombs employ powdered white phosphorus or titanium
compounds, such materials are usually unavailable to even the most well-equipped terrorist. Instead, he/she would
have to make the smoke bomb for themselves.
Most homemade smoke bombs usually employ some type of base powder, such as black powder or pyrodex, to
support combustion. The base material will burn well, and provide heat to cause the other materials in the device to
burn, but not completely or cleanly. Table sugar, mixed with sulfur and a base material, produces large amounts of
smoke. Sawdust, especially if it has a small amount of oil in it, and a base powder works well also. Other excellent
smoke ingredients are small pieces of rubber, finely ground plastics, and many chemical mixtures. The material in
road flares can be mixed with sugar and sulfur and a base powder produces much smoke. Most of the fuel-oxidizer
mixtures, if the ratio is not correct, produce much smoke when added to a base powder. The list of possibilities goes
on and on. The trick to a successful smoke bomb also lies in the container used. A plastic cylinder works well, and
contributes to the smoke produced. The hole in the smoke bomb where the fuse enters must be large enough to
allow the material to burn without causing an explosion. This is another plus for plastic containers, since they will melt
and burn when the smoke material ignites, producing an opening large enough to prevent an explosion.
---SIMPLE SMOKE---
The following reaction should produce a fair amount of smoke. Since this reaction is not all that dangerous you can
use larger amounts if necessary
6 pt. ZINC POWDER
1 pt. SULFUR POWDER
Insert a red hot wire into the pile, step back.
---COLORED FLAMES---
Colored flames can often be used as a signaling device for terrorists. By putting a ball of colored flame material in a
rocket; the rocket, when the ejection charge fires, will send out a burning colored ball. The materials that produce the
different colors of flames appear below.
COLOR MATERIAL USED IN
Red Strontium Salts Road Flares
[Strontium Nitrate] Red Sparklers
Green Barium Salts Green Sparklers
[Barium Nitrate]
Yellow Sodium Salts Gold Sparklers
[Sodium Nitrate]
Blue Powdered Copper Blue Sparklers
Old Pennies
White Powdered Magnesium -or- Firestarters
Aluminum Aluminum Foil
Purple Potassium Permanganate Purple Fountains
Treating Sewage
2 13.Firecrackers by Exodus
A simple firecracker can be made from cardboard tubing and epoxy. The instructions are below:
1.Cut a small piece of cardboard tubing from the tube you are using. "Small" means anything less than 4 times the
diameter of the tube.
2.Set the section of tubing down on a piece of wax paper, and fill it with epoxy and the drying agent to a height of 3/4
the diameter of the tubing. Allow the epoxy to dry to maximum hardness, as specified on the package.
3.When it is dry, put a small hole in the middle of the tube, and insert a desired length of fuse.
4.Fill the tube with any type of flame-sensitive explosive. Flash powder, pyrodex, black powder, potassium picrate,
lead azide, nitrocellulose, or any of the fast burning fuel-oxidizer mixtures will do nicely. Fill the tube almost to the
top.
5.Pack the explosive tightly in the tube with a wad of tissue paper and a pencil or other suitable ramrod. Be sure to
leave enough space for more epoxy.
6.Fill the remainder of the tube with the epoxy and hardener, and allow it to dry.
7.For those who wish to make spectacular firecrackers, always use flash powder, mixed with a small amount of other
material for colors. By crushing the material on a sparkler, and adding it to the flash powder, the explosion will be
the same color as the sparkler. By adding small chunks of sparkler material, the device will throw out colored
burning sparks, of the same color as the sparkler. By adding powdered iron, orange sparks will be produced.
White sparks can be produced from magnesium shavings, or from small, LIGHTLY crumpled balls of aluminum
foil.
Example: Suppose I wish to make a firecracker that will explode with a red flash, and throw out white sparks.
First, I would take a road flare, and finely powder the material inside it. Or, I could take a red sparkler, and finely
powder it.
Then, I would mix a small amount of this material with the flash powder. NOTE: FLASH POWDER MAY REACT
WITH SOME MATERIALS THAT IT IS MIXED WITH, AND EXPLODE SPONTANEOUSLY! I would mix it in a
ratio of 9 parts flash powder to 1 part of flare or sparkler material, and add about 15 small balls of aluminum foil I
would store the material in a plastic bag overnight outside of the house, to make sure that the stuff doesn't react.
Then, in the morning, I would test a small amount of it, and if it was satisfactory, I would put it in the firecracker.
8.If this type of firecracker is mounted on a rocket engine, professional to semi-professional displays can be
produced.
---SKYROCKETS---
An impressive home made skyrocket can easily be made in the home from model rocket engines. Estes engines are
recommended.
1.Buy an Estes Model Rocket Engine of the desired size, remembering that the power doubles with each letter.
2.Either buy a section of body tube for model rockets that exactly fits the engine, or make a tube from several
thicknesses of paper and glue.
3.Scrape out the clay backing on the back of the engine, so that the powder is exposed. Glue the tube to the engine,
so that the tube covers at least half the engine. Pour a small charge of flash powder in the tube, about « an inch.
4.By adding materials as detailed in the section on firecrackers, various types of effects can be produced.
5.By putting Jumping Jacks or bottle rockets without the stick in the tube, spectacular displays with moving fireballs
or MRV's can be produced.
6.Finally, by mounting many home made firecrackers on the tube with the fuses in the tube, multiple colored bursts
can be made.
---ROMAN CANDLES---
Roman candles are impressive to watch. They are relatively difficult to make, compared to the other types of homemade
fireworks, but they are well worth the trouble.
1.Buy a « inch thick model rocket body tube, and reinforce it with several layers of paper and/or masking tape. This
must be done to prevent the tube from exploding. Cut the tube into about 10 inch lengths.
2.Put the tube on a sheet of wax paper, and seal one end with epoxy and the drying agent. About « of an inch is
sufficient.
3.Put a hole in the tube just above the bottom layer of epoxy, and insert a desired length of water proof fuse. Make
sure that the fuse fits tightly.
4.Pour about 1 inch of pyrodex or gunpowder down the open end of the tube.
5.Make a ball by powdering about two 6 inch sparklers of the desired color. Mix this powder with a small amount of
flash powder and a small amount of pyrodex, to have a final ratio (by volume) of 60% sparkler material / 20%
flash powder / 20% pyrodex. After mixing the powders well, add water, one drop at a time, and mixing
continuously, until a damp paste is formed.
This paste should be moldable by hand, and should retain its shape when left alone. Make a ball out of the paste that
just fits into the tube. Allow the ball to dry.
6.When it is dry, drop the ball down the tube. It should slide down fairly easily. Put a small wad of tissue paper in the
tube, and pack it gently against the ball with a pencil.
7.When ready to use, put the candle in a hole in the ground, pointed in a safe direction, light the fuse, and run. If the
device works, a colored fireball should shoot out of the tube to a height of about 30 feet. This height can be
increased by adding a slightly larger powder charge in step 4, or by using a slightly longer tube.
8.If the ball does not ignite, add slightly more pyrodex in step 5.
9.The balls made for roman candles also function very well in rockets, producing an effect of falling colored fireballs.
2 14. Suppliers II by Exodus
Most, if not all, of the information in this publication can be obtained through a public or university library. There are
also many publications that are put out by people who want to make money by telling other people how to make
explosives at home. Adds for such appear frequently in paramilitary magazines and newspapers. This list is
presented to show the large number of places that information and materials can be purchased from. It also includes
fireworks companies and the like.
COMPANY NAME AND ADDRESS WHAT COMPANY SELLS
FULL AUTO CO. INC. EXPLOSIVE RECIPES
PO BOX 1881 PAPER TUBING
MURFREESBORO, TN 37133
UNLIMITED CHEMICALS AND FUSE
PO BOX 1378-SN
HERMISTON, OR 97838
AMERICAN FIREWORKS NEWS FIREWORKS NEWS MAGAZINE WITH
SR BOX 30 SOURCES AND TECHNIQUES
DINGMAN'S FERRY, PA 18328
BARNETT INTERNATIONAL INC. BOWS, CROSSBOWS, ARCHERY MATERIALS,
125 RUNNELS STREET AIR RIFLES
PO BOX 226
PORT HURON, MI 48060
CROSSMAN AIR GUNS AIR GUNS
PO BOX 22927
ROCHESTER, NY 14692
R. ALLEN PROFESSIONAL FIREWORKS CONSTRUCTION
PO BOX 146 BOOKS & FORMULAS
WILLOW GROVE, PA 19090
MJ DISTRIBUTING FIREWORKS FORMULAS
PO BOX 10585
YAKIMA, WA 98909
EXECUTIVE PROTECTION PRODUCTS INC TEAR GAS GRENADES,
316 CALIFORNIA AVE PROTECTION DEVICES
RENO, NV 89509
BADGER FIREWORKS CO. INC CLASS "B" AND "C" FIREWORKS
PO BOX 1451
JANESVILLE, WI 53547
NEW ENGLAND FIREWORKS CO INC CLASS "C" FIREWORKS
PO BOX 3504
STAMFORD, CT 06095
RAINBOW TRAIL CLASS "C" FIREWORKS
PO BOX 581
EDGEMONT, PA 19028
STONINGTON FIREWORKS INC CLASS "C" AND "B" FIREWORKS
4010 NEW WILSEY BAY U.25 ROAD
RAPID RIVER, MI 49878
WINDY CITY FIREWORKS INC CLASS "C" AND "B" FIREWORKS
PO BOX 11 (GOOD PRICES!)
ROCHESTER, IN 46975
BOOKS
THE ANARCHIST COOKBOOK (highly circulated)
THE IMPROVISED MUNITIONS MANUAL (formulas work, but put maker at risk)
MILITARY EXPLOSIVES
Two manuals of interest: Duponts "Blaster's Handbook", $20 manual mainly useful for rock and seismographic
operations. Atlas's "Powder Manual" or "Manual of Rock Blasting" (I forget the title, it's in the office). This is a $60
book, well worth the cash, dealing with the above two topics, plus demolitions, and non-quarry blasting.
2 15.Checklist for Raids on Labs by Exodus
In the end, the serious terrorist would probably realize that if he/she wishes to make a truly useful explosive, he or
she will have to steal the chemicals to make the explosive from a lab. A list of such chemicals in order of priority
would probably resemble the following:
LIQUIDS SOLIDS
____ Nitric Acid ____ Potassium Perchlorate
____ Sulfuric Acid ____ Potassium Chlorate
____ 95% Ethanol ____ Picric Acid (usually a powder)
____ Toluene ____ Ammonium Nitrate
____ Perchloric Acid ____ Powdered Magnesium
____ Hydrochloric Acid ____ Powdered Aluminum
____ Potassium Permanganate
GASES ____ Sulfur (flowers of)
____ Hydrogen ____ Mercury
____ Oxygen ____ Potassium Nitrate
____ Chlorine ____ Potassium Hydroxide
____ Carbon Dioxide ____ Phosphorus
____ Sodium Azide
____ Lead Acetate
____ Barium Nitrate
Print this sheet out and carry it with you! Memorize it, anything. It is INVALUABLE. All of these chemicals should be
carried in your school lab. Happy hunting. :)
2 16.Misc Anarchy by Exodus
Tennis ball cannons and other information from the Usenet. The Usenet is a worldwide network of 15,000 machines
and over 500,000 people- And growing!
At this time (twelve years ago) most soft drink cans were rolled tin rather than the molded aluminum. We would cut
the tops and bottoms off of a bunch of them and tape them together with duct tape, forming a tube of two feet or
more.
At the end we would tape a can with the bottom intact, more holes punched (with a can opener) around the top, and a
small hole in the side at the base. We then fastened this contraption to a tripod so we could aim it reliably. Any object
that came somewhat close to filling the tube was then placed therein.
In the shop, we used the clock as a target and an empty plastic solder spool as ammunition, with tape over the ends
of the center hole and sometimes filled with washers for weight. When taken to parties or picnics, we would use
whatever was handy. Hot dog rolls or napkins filled with potato chips provided spectacular entertainment.
Once loaded, a small amount of lighter fluid was poured into the hole in the side of the end can and allowed to
vaporize for a few moments. The "fire control technician" would announce "Fire in the Hole" and ignite it.
BOOM! Whoosh! The clock never worked after that!
Our version of the potato chip cannon, originally designed around the Pringles potato chip can, was built similarly.
Ours used coke cans, six with the top and bottom removed, and the seventh had Bottle opener holes all around one
end, the top of this can was covered with a grid or piece of wire screening to keep the tennis ball from falling all the
way to the bottom. This was spiral wrapped with at least two rolls of duct tape.
A wooden shoulder rest and forward hand grip was taped to the tube. For ignition we used lantern batteries to a
model-t coil, actuated by a push button on the hand grip. A fresh wilson tennis ball was stuffed all the way back to the
grid, and a drop or two of lighter fluid was dropped in one of two holes in the end. The ignition wire was poked
through the other hole.
We would then lie in ambush, waiting for something to move. When fired with the proper air/fuel mixture, a satisfying
thoomp! At maximum range the ball would travel about 100 yards with a 45ø launch angle. Closer up the ball would
leave a welt on an warring opponent. When launched at a moving car the thud as it hit the door would generally rattle
anyone inside. Luckily we never completed the one that shot golf balls.
More Fun Stuff for Terrorists
Carbide Bomb
This is EXTREMELY DANGEROUS. Exercise extreme caution.... Obtain some calcium carbide. This is the stuff that
is used in carbide lamps and can be found at nearly any hardware store.
Take a few pieces of this stuff (it looks like gravel) and put it in a glass jar with some water. Put a lid on tightly. The
carbide will react with the water to produce acetylene carbonate which is similar to the gas used in cutting torches.
Eventually the glass with explode from internal pressure. If you leave a burning rag nearby, you will get a nice fireball!
Auto Exhaust Flame Thrower
For this one, all you need is a car, a sparkplug, ignition wire and a switch. Install the spark plug into the last four or
five inches of the tailpipe by drilling a hole that the plug can screw into easily. Attach the wire (this is regular insulated
wire) to one side of the switch and to the spark plug. The other side of the switch is attached to the positive terminal
on the battery. With the car running, simply hit the switch and watch the flames fly!!! Again be careful that no one is
behind you! I have seen some of these flames go 20 feet!!
Balloons
Balloons are fun to play with in chem lab, fill them with the gas that you get out of the taps on the lab desks, then tie
up the balloon tight, and drop it out the window to the burnouts below, you know, the ones that are always smoking,
they love to pop balloons with lit cigarette.... get the picture? Good.
2 17.Combo Locks II by Exodus
First of all, let me tell you about the set-up of a lock. When the lock is locked, there is a curved piece of metal
wedged inside the little notch on the horseshoe shaped bar (known as the shackle) that is pushed in to the lock when
you lock it.
To free this wedge, you usually have to turn the lock to the desired combination and the pressure on the wedge is
released therefore letting the lock open. I will now tell you how to make a pick so you can open a lock without having
to waste all that time turning the combination (this also helps when you don't know the combination to begin with).
To bypass this hassle, simply take a thinned hairpin (file it down) or a opened out piece of a collapsing antenna (the
inside diameter of the curved piece of metal should be the same as the diameter of the shackle- if the metal is too
thick, use fine sandpaper to thin it down.
Once you have your hair pin (make sure it's metal), take the ridged side and break it off right before it starts to make
a U-turn onto the straight side. The curved part can now be used as a handle. Now, using a file, file down the other
end until it is fairly thin. You should do this to many hairpins and file them so they are of different thicknesses so you
can jimmy various locks.
Look at a lock to see which side the lock opens from. If you can't tell, you will just have to try both sides. When ya
find out what side it opens from, take the lock pick and stick the filed end into the inside of the horseshoe-shaped bar
on whichever side the lock opens from.
Now, put pressure on the handle of the lock pick (pushing down, into the crack) and pull the lock up and down. The
lock will then open because the pick separated the wedge and the notch allowing it to open.
Also, this technique works best on American locks. I have never picked a Master lock before because of the shape a
pressure of the wedge but if anyone does it, let me know how long it took. Also, the Master lock casing is very tight so
ya can't get the shim in.
2 18.Misc Anarchy II by Ragner Rocker
Many of you out there probably have fantasies of revenge against teachers, principals and other people who are just
assholes. Depending on your level of hatred of this person I would advise that you do some of these following
experiments:
1.Pouring dishsoap into the gas tank of your enemy - many of you already know that gasoline + dishsoap (e.g. joy,
palmolive, etc.) form a mixture called napalm. Now napalm is a jelly-like substance used in bombs, flamethrowers,
etc. Now you can only guess what this mixture would do to someone's fuel line!!!!
2.Spreading dirty motor oil/castor oil on someone's exhaust pipe - when the exhaust pipe heats up (and it will!!) the
motor oil or castor oil on the pipe will cause thick, disgusting smoke to ooze forth from the back of that car. Who
knows maybe he/she might be pulled over and given a ticket!!
3.Light Bulb Bomb
4.Simple smoke/stink bomb - you can purchase sulfur at a drugstore under the name flowers of sulfur. Now when
sulfur burns it will give off a very strong odor and plenty of smoke. Now all you need is a fuse from a firecracker,
a tin can, and the sulfur. Fill the can with sulfur (pack very lightly), put aluminum foil over the top of the can, poke
a small hole into the foil, insert the wick, and light it and get out of the room if you value your lungs. You can find
many uses for this or at least I hope so.
FUN WITH ALARMS
A fact I forgot to mention in my previous alarm articles is that one can also use polyurethane foam in a can to silence
horns and bells. You can purchase this at any hardware store as insulation. It is easy to handle and dries faster.
Many people that travel carry a pocket alarm with them. This alarm is a small device that is hung around the door
knob, and when someone touches the knob his body capacitance sets off the alarm. These nasty nuisances can be
found by walking down the halls of a hotel and touching all the door knobs very quickly. if you happen to chance upon
one, attach a 3' length of wire or other metal object to the knob. This will cause the sleeping business pig inside to
think someone is breaking in and call room service for help. All sorts of fun and games will ensue.
Some high-security installations use keypads just like touch-tone pads (a registered trade mark of bell systems) to
open locks or disarm alarms. Most use three or four digits. To figure out the code, wipe the key-pad free from all
fingerprints by using a rag soaked in rubbing alcohol. After the keypad has been used just apply finger print dust and
all four digits will be marked. now all you have to do is figure out the order. If you want to have some fun with a
keypad, try pressing the * and # at the same time. Many units use this as a panic button. This will bring the owner
and the cops running and ever-one will have a good time. Never try to remove these panels from the wall, as they
have built-in tamper switches.
On the subject of holdups, most places (including supermarkets, liquor stores, etc.) have what is known as a money
clip. These little nasties are placed at the bottom of a money drawer and when the last few bills are with-drawn a
switch closes and sets the alarm off. That's why when you make your withdrawal it's best to help yourself so you can
check for these little nasties. If you find them, merely insert ones underneath the pile of twenties, and then pull out
the twenties, leaving the one-dollar bill behind to prevent the circuit from closing.
SOFT DRINK CAN BOMB
AN ARTICLE FROM THE BOOK:
THE POOR MAN'S JAMES BOND BY KURT SAXON
This is an anti-personnel bomb meant for milling crowds. The bottom of a soft drink can is half cut out and bent back.
A giant firecracker or other explosive is put in and surrounded with nuts and bolts or rocks. The fuse is then armed
with a chemical delay in a plastic drinking straw.
After first making sure there are no children nearby, the acid or glycerine is put into the straw and the can is set down
by a tree or wall where it will not be knocked over. The delay should give you three to five minutes. It will then have a
shattering effect on passersby.
It is hardly likely that anyone would pick up and drink from someone else's soft drink can. but if such a crude person
should try to drink from your bomb he would break a nasty habit fast!
! !
! !
! ! <-CHEMICAL INGITER
---- ----
! !1! !
! ===== !
!* ! ! "!
! ! ! !
! ! ! !<- BIG FIRECRACKER
! ! !% !
! ==== !
! !
! # !
! --- !
! ! ! <- NUTS & BOLTS
! / !
! !
---------
Pyro Book II
by Capt Hack and Grey Wolf
TIME DELAYED CHEMICAL FUSE
1.Put 1 teaspoon full of potassium permanganate in a tin can.
2.Add a few drops of glycerine.
3.Wait 3-4 min.
4.Get the hell out. The stuff will smoke, then burst into flames.
Potassium permanganate stains like iodine but worse [it's purple]. The reaction will spatter a bit so it can be messy
and it doesn't matter if the amounts are uneven [i.e. 1 part to 3 parts]
EXPLOSIVES AND INCENDIARIES by THE RESEARCHER
INTRODUCTION:
The trouble with text books on chemistry and explosives is the attitude with which they are written. They don't say,
"Now I know you would like to blow holy hell out of something just for the fun of it so here is how to whip up
something in your kitchen to do it". They tell you how Dupont does it or how the ancient Chinese did it but not how
you can do it with the resources and materials available to you.
Even army manuals on field expedient explosives are almost useless because they are just outlines written with the
understanding that an instructor is going to fill in the blanks. It is a fun game to search out the materials that can be
put together to make something go "boom". You can find what you need in grocery stores, hardware stores, and farm
supplies. An interesting point to remember is that it is much easier to make a big e explosion than a small one. It is
very difficult for a home experimenter to make a firecracker, but a bomb capable of blowing the walls out of a building
is easy.
HOW TO MAKE ROCKET FUEL
This is easy to make and fun to play with. Mix equal parts by volume Potassium or Sodium Nitrate and granulated
sugar. Pour a big spoonful of this into a pile. Stick a piece of blackmatch fuse into it; light; and step back. This is also
a very hot incendiary. A little imagination will suggest a lot of experiments for this.
ANOTHER ROCKET FUEL
Mix equal parts by volume of zinc dust and sulfur. Watch out if you experiment with this. It goes off in a sudden flash.
It is not a powerful explosive, but is violent stuff even when not confined because of its fast burning rate.
As I continue from this point some of the ingredients are going to be harder to get without going through a chemical
supply. I try to avoid this. I happen to know that B. Prieser Scientific (local to my area) has been instructed by the
police to send them the names of anyone buying chemicals in certain combinations. For example, if a person were to
buy Sulfuric acid, Nitric acid and Toluene (the makings for TNT) in one order the police would be notified. I will do the
best I can to tell you how to make the things you need from commonly available materials, but I don't want to leave
out something really good because you might have to scrounge for an ingredient. I am guessing you would prefer it
that way.
HOW TO MAKE AN EXPLOSIVE FROM COMMON MATCHES
Pinch the head near the bottom with a pair of wire cutters to break it up; then use the edges of the cutters to scrape
off the loose material. It gets easy with practice. You can do this while watching TV and collect enough for a bomb
without dying of boredom.
Once you have a good batch of it, you can load it into a pipe instead of black powder. Be careful not to get any in the
threads, and wipe off any that gets on the end of the pipe. Never try to use this stuff for rocket fuel. A science teacher
was killed that way.
Just for fun while I'm on the subject of matches, did you know that you can strike a safety match on a window pane?
Hold a paper match between your thumb and first finger. With your second finger, press the head firmly against a
large window. Very quickly, rub the match down the pane about 2 feet while maintaining the pressure. The friction will
generate enough heat to light the match.
Another fun trick is the match rocket. Tightly wrap the top half of a paper match with foil. Set it in the top of a pop
bottle at a 45 ø angle. Hold a lighted match under the head until it ignites. If you got it right, the match will zip up and
hit the ceiling.
I just remembered the match guns I used to make when I was a kid. These are made from a bicycle spoke. At one
end of the spoke is a piece that screws off. Take it off and screw it on backwards. You now have a piece of stiff wire
with a small hollow tube on one end. Pack the material from a couple of wooden safety matches into the tube. Force
the stem of a match into the hole. It should fit very tightly. Hold a lighted match under the tube until it gets hot enough
to ignite the powder. It goes off with a bang.
HOW TO MAKE CONCENTRATED SULFURIC ACID FROM BATTERY ACID
Go to an auto supply store and ask for "a small battery acid". This should only cost a few dollars. What you will get is
about a gallon of dilute sulfuric acid. Put a pint of this into a heat resistant glass container. The glass pitchers used
for making coffee are perfect. Do not use a metal container.
Use an extension cord to set up a hotplate out doors. Boil the acid until white fumes appear. As soon as you see the
white fumes, turn off the hot plate and let the acid cool. Pour the now concentrated acid into a glass container. The
container must have a glass stopper or plastic cap -- no metal. It must be air tight. Otherwise, the acid will quickly
absorb moisture from the air and become diluted. Want to know how to make a time bomb that doesn't tick and has
no wires or batteries? Hold on to your acid and follow me into the next installment.
HOW TO MAKE A CHEMICAL TIME DELAY FUSE:
To get an understanding of how this is going to work, mix up equal parts by volume Potassium chlorate and
granulated sugar. Pour a spoonful of the mixture in a small pile and make a depression in the top with the end of a
spoon. Using a medicine dropper, place one drop of concentrated sulfuric acid in the depression and step back.
It will snap and crackle a few times and then burst into vigorous flames. To make the fuse, cut about 2 inches off a
plastic drinking straw. Tamp a small piece of cotton in one end. On top of this put about an inch of the clorate/sugar
mixture.
Now lightly tamp in about a quarter inch of either glass wool or asbestos fibers. Secure this with the open end up and
drop in 3 or 4 drops of sulfuric acid. After a few minutes the acid will soak through the fibers and ignite the mixture.
The time delay can be controlled by the amount of fiber used and by varying how tightly it is packed. Don't use cotton
for this. The acid will react with cotton and become weakened in the process. By punching a hole in the side of the
straw, a piece of blackmatch or other fuse can be inserted and used to set off the device of your choice.
Potassium chlorate was very popular with the radical underground. It can be used to make a wide variety of
explosives and incendiaries, some of them extremely dangerous to handle. The radicals lost several people that way.
But, don't worry. I am not going to try to protect you from yourself. I have decided to tell all. I will have more to say
about Potassium chlorate, but for now, let's look at a couple of interesting electric fuses.
PEROXYACETONE
PEROXYACETONE IS EXTREMELY FLAMMABLE AND HAS BEEN REPORTED TO BE SHOCK SENSITIVE
MATERIALS:
4 mL Acetone
4 mL 30% Hydrogen Peroxide
4 drops Conc. Hydrochloric Acid
150 mm Test Tube
Add 4 mL acetone and 4 mL hydrogen peroxide to the test tube. Then add 4 drops concentrated hydrochloric acid. In
10-20 minutes a white solid should begin to appear. If no change is observed, warm the test tube in a water bath at
40øC. Allow the reaction to continue for two hours. Swirl the slurry and filter it. Leave out on filter paper to dry for at
least two hours. To ignite, light a candle tied to a meter stick and light it (while staying at least a meter away).
I would like to give credit to a book by shakashari entitled "Chemical demonstrations" for a few of the precise
amounts of chemicals in some experiments.
THE CHEMIST'S CORNER #2:
HOUSEHOLD CHEMICALS, BY ZAPHOD BEEBLEBROX/MPG
This article deals with instructions on how to do some interesting experiments with common household chemicals.
Some may or may not work depending on the concentration of certain chemicals in different areas and brands. I
would suggest that the person doing these experiments have some knowledge of chemistry, especially for the more
dangerous experiments.
I am not responsible for any injury or damage caused by people using this information. It is provided for use by
people knowledgeable in chemistry who are interested in such experiments and can safely handle such experiments.
I. A LIST OF HOUSEHOLD CHEMICALS AND THEIR COMPOSITION
VINEGAR: 3-5% ACETIC ACID BAKING SODA: SODIUM BICARBONATE
DRAIN CLEANERS: SODIUM HYDROXIDE SANI-FLUSH: 75% SODIUM BISULFATE
AMMONIA WATER: AMMONIUM HYDROXIDE CITRUS FRUIT: CITRIC ACID
TABLE SALT: SODIUM CHLORIDE SUGAR: SUCROSE
MILK OF MAGNESIA: MAGNESIUM HYDROXIDE TINCTURE OF IODINE: 4% IODINE
RUBBING ALCOHOL: 70% OR 99% (DEPENDS ON BRAND) ISOPROPYL ALCOHOL (DO NOT DRINK!)
GENERATING CHLORINE GAS
This is slightly more dangerous than the other two experiments, so you should know what you're doing before you try
this...
Ever wonder why ammonia bottles always say 'do not mix with chlorine bleach', and visa-versa? That's because if
you mix ammonia water with Ajax or something like it, it will give off chlorine gas. To capture it, get a large bottle and
put Ajax in the bottom. Then pour some ammonia down into the bottle. Since the chlorine is heavier than air, it will
stay down in there unless you use large amounts of either Ajax or ammonia (don't!).
CHLORINE + TURPENTINE
Take a small cloth or rag and soak it in turpentine. Quickly drop it into the bottle of chlorine. It should give off a lot of
black smoke and probably start burning...
GENERATING HYDROGEN GAS
To generate hydrogen, all you need is an acid and a metal that will react with that acid. Try vinegar (acetic acid) with
zinc, aluminum, magnesium, etc. You can collect hydrogen in something if you note that it is lighter than air.... light a
small amount and it burns with a small *pop*.
Another way of creating hydrogen is by the electrolysis of water. This involve separating water (H2O) into hydrogen
and oxygen by an electric current. To do this, you need a 6-12 volt battery (or a DC transformer), two test tubes, a
large bowl, two carbon electrodes (take them out of an unworking 6-12 volt battery), and table salt. Dissolve the salt
in a large bowl full of water. Submerge the two test tubes in the water and put the electrodes inside them, with the
mouth of the tube aiming down. Connect the battery to some wire going down to the electrodes.
This will work for a while, but chlorine will be generated along with the oxygen which will corrode your copper wires
leading to the carbon electrodes... (the table salt is broken up into chlorine and sodium ions, the chlorine comes off
as a gas with oxygen while sodium reacts with the water to form sodium hydroxide....). therefore, if you can get your
hands on some sulfuric acid, use it instead. it will not affect the reaction other than making the water conduct
electricity.
WARNING:
DO NOT use a transformer that outputs AC current! Not only is AC inherently more dangerous than DC, it also
produces both Hydrogen and Oxygen at each electrode.
HYDROGEN + CHLORINE
Take the test tube of hydrogen and cover the mouth with your thumb. Keep it inverted, and bring it near the bottle of
chlorine (not one that has reacted with turpentine). Say "good-bye test tube", and drop it into the bottle. The hydrogen
and chlorine should react and possibly explode (depending on purity and amount of each gas). An interesting thing
about this is they will not react if it is dark and no heat or other energy is around. When a light is turned on, enough
energy is present to cause them to react...
PREPARATION OF OXYGEN
Get some hydrogen peroxide (from a drug store) and manganese dioxide (from a battery- it's a black powder). Mix
the two in a bottle, and they give off oxygen. If the bottle is stoppered, pressure will build up and shoot it off.
Try lighting a wood splint and sticking it (when only glowing) into the bottle. The oxygen will make it burst into flame.
The oxygen will allow things to burn better...
IODINE
Tincture of iodine contains mainly alcohol and a little iodine. To separate them, put the tincture of iodine in a metal lid
to a bottle and heat it over a candle. Have a stand holding another metal lid directly over the tincture (about 4-6
inches above it) with ice on top of it. The alcohol should evaporate, and the iodine should sublime, but should reform
iodine crystals on the cold metal lid directly above. If this works (I haven't tried), you can use the iodine along with
household ammonia to form nitrogen triiodide.
I have found that Pool Chlorine tablets with strong household ammonia react to produce LOTS of chlorine gas and
heat... also mixing the tablets with rubbing alcohol produces heat, a different (and highly flammable) gas, and
possibly some sort of acid (it eats away at just about anything it touches)
TRIPWIRES
by The Mortician
Well first of all I recommend that you read the file on my board about landmines... If you can't then here is the
concept.
You can use an m-80,h-100, blockbuster or any other type of explosive that will light with a fuse. Now the way this
works is if you have a 9 volt battery, get either a solar igniter (preferably) or some steel wool you can create a remote
ignition system. What you do it set up a schematic like this.
------------------>+ battery
steel || ->- battery
wool || /
:==:--- <--fuse \
|| /
---- spst switch--\
So when the switch is on the currnet will flow through the steel wool or igniter and heat up causing the fuse to light.
Note: For use with steel wool try it first and get a really thin piece of wire and pump the current through it to make
sure it will heat up to light the explosive.
Now the thing to do is plant your explosive wherever you want it to be, bury it and cover the wires. Now take a fishing
line (about 20 lb. test) and tie one end to a secure object. Have your switch secured to something and make a loop
on the other end on the line. Put the loop around the switch such that when pulled it will pull the switch and set off the
explosive.
To ignite the explosive... The thing to do is to experiment with this and find your best method... Let me know on any
good kills, or new techniques... On my board... (201)376-4462
BOOBY TRAP TRIP WIRES
BY Vlad Tepes (of Chicago C64 fame)
Here is a method for constructing boobytraps which I personally invented, and which I have found to work better than
any other type of release booby trap.
There are many possible variations on this design, but the basic premise remains the same. What you'll need:
3-4 nails each 2 inches long and soft enough to bend easily (galvanized iron works well)
6 feet of wire or fishing line
5-15 feet of strong string or rope
1 really sick mind.
Hammer two of the nails into the trunk of a tree (about one inch apart) so they form a horizontal line. They should be
angled slightly upward, about 30ø.
Bend each nail Downward about one inch out from the trunk. Take your nefarious device (say a small rock
suspended in a tree) and rig a rope or string so the line comes DOWN towards the two nails. Tie a loop in the string
so the loop *just* reaches between the two nails, and pass a third nail between the two nails with the loop around this
nail between the two others (see diagrams)
bent nails
/ || ^ slight upward tension
# /\ ||
#/ @ || @ ( @ are the two nails, head on)
# ------!----()------
# trip wire
\ /
Trunk third nail
Now tie one end of the fishing line to the head of the third nail, and the other end around another tree or to a nail (in
another tree, a root or a stump etc).
When somebody pulls on the trip wire, the nail will be pulled out and your sick creation will be released to do it's
damage (try tying it to a firing pin).
There are several possible variations. More than one trip wire can be attached to the same nail, or this device can be
used to arm a second trip wire. Large wire staples or hook and eye loops can be used to replace the two bent nails.
A more interesting variation uses a straight piece of metal rod with a hole at each end, or with a short wire loop
welded to each end. One end is attached to the tripwire, the other is attached to a spring.
||
*/\/\/\/\/\-===()=======--------------------------------------*
SPRING BOLT Trip wire
With this design the loop will be released if the tripwire is pulled or if it is broken. The spring should be under
moderate tension and well oiled.
Improvised Explosives
Written by: The Lich
Gelatin Explosive from Anti-Freeze
CAUTION: THIS FORMULA ASSUMES THAT THE MAKER HAS NO QUALMS ABOUT KILLING HIS/HER SELF IN
THE PROCESS.
This explosive is almost the same as the nitro-gelatin plastique explosive except that it is supple and pliable to -10øC
to -20øC
Antifreeze is easier to obtain than glycerine and is usually cheaper. It needs to be freed of water before the
manufacture and this can be done by treating it with calcium chloride until a specific gravity of 1.12 at 0øC or 1.11 at
20øC is obtained.
This can be done by adding calcium chloride to the antifreeze and checking with a hydrometer and continue to add
calcium chloride until the proper reading is obtained. The antifreeze is then filtered to remove the calcium chloride
from the liquid. This explosive is superior to nitro-gelatin in that it is easier to collidon the IMR smokeless powder into
the explosive and that the 50/50 ether ethyl alcohol can be done away with. It is superior in that the formation of the
collidon is done very rapidly by the nitroethelene glycol.
It's detonation properties are practically the same as the nitro-gelatine. Like the nitro-gelatine it is highly flammable
and if caught on fire the chances are good that the flame will progress to detonation. In this explosive as in nitrogelatine
the addition of 1% sodium carbonate is a good idea to reduce the chance of residual acid being present in
the final explosive. The following is a slightly different formula than nitro-gelatine:
Nitro-glycol 75% Guncotton (IMR) 6% Potassium Nitrate 14% Flour 5%
In this process the 50/50 step is omitted. Mix the potassium nitrate with the nitro-glycol. Remember that this nitroglycol
is just as sensitive to shock as is nitroglycerin.
The next step is to mix in the baking flour and sodium carbonate. Mix these by kneading with gloved hands until the
mixture is uniform. This kneading should be done gently and slowly. The mixture should be uniform when the IMR
smokeless powder is added. Again this is kneaded to uniformity. Use this explosive as soon as possible.
If it must be stored, store in a cool, dry place (0-10øC). This explosive should detonate at 7600-7800 m/sec.. These
two explosives are very powerful and should be sensitive to a #6 blasting cap or equivalent.
These explosives are dangerous and should not be made unless the manufacturer has had experience with this type
compound. The foolish and ignorant may as well forget these explosives as they won't live to get to use them.
Don't get me wrong, these explosives have been manufactured for years with an amazing record of safety. Millions
of tons of nitroglycerine have been made and used to manufacture dynamite and explosives of this nature with very
few mishaps.
Nitroglycerin and nitroglycol will kill and their main victims are the stupid and foolhardy. Before manufacturing these
explosives take a drop of nitroglycerin and soak into a small piece of filter paper and place it on an anvil.
Hit this drop with a hammer and don't put any more on the anvil. See what I mean! This explosive compound is not to
be taken lightly. If there are any doubts DON'T.
Improvised Explosives Plastique Explosive from Aspirin
This explosive is a phenol derivative. It is HIGHLY toxic and explosive compounds made from picric acid are
poisonous if inhaled, ingested, or handled and absorbed through the skin. The toxicity of this explosive restricts its
use due to the fact that over exposure in most cases causes liver and kidney failure and sometimes death if
immediate treatment is not obtained.
This explosive is a cousin to TNT but is more powerful than it's cousin. It is the first explosive used militarily and was
adopted in 1888 as an artillery shell filler. Originally this explosive was derived from coal tar but thanks to modern
chemistry you can make this explosive easily in approximately three hours from acetylsalicylic acid (aspirin purified).
This procedure involves dissolving the acetylsalicylic acid in warm sulfuric acid and adding sodium or potassium
nitrate which nitrates the purified aspirin and the whole mixture drowned in water and filtered to obtain the final
product. This explosive is called trinitrophenol. Care should be taken to ensure that this explosive is stored in glass
containers. Picric acid will form dangerous salts when allowed to contact all metals except tin and aluminum. These
salts are primary explosive and are super sensitive. They also will cause the detonation of the picric acid.
To make picric acid obtain some aspirin. The cheaper brands work best but buffered brands should be avoided.
Powder these tablets to a fine consistency. To extract the acetylsalicylic acid from this powder place this powder in
methyl alcohol and stir vigorously. Not all of the powder will dissolve. Filter this powder out of the alcohol. Again wash
this powder that was filtered out of the alcohol with more alcohol but with a lesser amount than the first extraction.
Again filter the remaining powder out of the alcohol. Combine the now clear alcohol and allow it to evaporate in a
pyrex dish. When the alcohol has evaporated there will be a surprising amount of crystals in the bottom of the pyrex
dish.
Take forty grams of these purified acetylsalicylic acid crystals and dissolve them in 150 mL of sulfuric acid (98%,
specify gravity 1.8) and heat to dissolve all the crystals. This heating can be done in a common electric frying pan
with the thermostat set on 150øF and filled with a good cooking oil.
When all the crystals have dissolved in the sulfuric acid take the beaker, that you've done all this dissolving in (600
mL), out of the oil bath. This next step will need to be done with a very good ventilation system (it is a good idea to do
any chemistry work such as the whole procedure and any procedure on this disk with good ventilation or outside).
Slowly start adding 58 g of sodium nitrate or 77 g of potassium nitrate to the acid mixture in the beaker very slowly in
small portions with vigorous stirring. A red gas (nitrogen trioxide) will be formed and this should be avoided.
The mixture is likely to foam up and the addition should be stopped until the foaming goes down to prevent the
overflow of the acid mixture in the beaker. When the sodium or potassium nitrate has been added the mixture is
allowed to cool somewhat (30-40øC). The solution should then be dumped slowly into twice it's volume of crushed ice
and water. The brilliant yellow crystals will form in the water. These should be filtered out and placed in 200 mL of
boiling distilled water. This water is allowed to cool and then the crystals are then filtered out of the water. These
crystals are a very, very pure trinitrophenol. These crystals are then placed in a pyrex dish and places in an oil bath
and heated to 80øC and held there for 2 hours. This temperature is best maintained and checked with a
thermometer.
The crystals are then powdered in small quantities to a face powder consistency. These powdered crystals are then
mixed with 10% by weight wax and 5% vaseline which are heated to melting temperature and poured into the
crystals. The mixing is best done by kneading together with gloved hands. This explosive should have a useful
plasticity range of 0-40øC. The detonation velocity should be around 7000 m/sec.. It is toxic to handle but simply
made from common ingredients and is suitable for most demolition work requiring a moderately high detonation
velocity. It is very suitable for shaped charges and some steel cutting charges. It is not as good an explosive as C-4
or other RDX based explosives but it is much easier to make. Again this explosive is very toxic and should be treated
with great care.
AVOID HANDLING BARE-HANDED, BREATHING DUST AND FUMES, AVOID ANY CHANCE OF INGESTION.
AFTER UTENSILS ARE USED FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF THIS EXPLOSIVE RETIRE THEM FROM THE
KITCHEN AS THE CHANCE OF POISONING IS NOT WORTH THE RISK. THIS EXPLOSIVE, IF MANUFACTURED
AS ABOVE, SHOULD BE SAFE IN STORAGE BUT WITH ANY HOMEMADE EXPLOSIVE STORAGE OS NOT
RECOMMENDED AND EXPLOSIVES SHOULD BE MADE UP AS NEEDED.
Improvised Explosives Plastique Explosive from Bleach
This explosive is a potassium chlorate explosive. This explosive and explosives of similar composition were used in
World War II as the main explosive filler in grenades, land mines, and mortar used by French, German, and other
forces involved in that conflict. These explosives are relatively safe to manufacture.
One should strive to make sure these explosives are free of sulfur, sulfides, and picric acid. The presence of these
compounds result in mixtures that are or can become highly sensitive and possibly decompose explosively while in
storage. The manufacture of this explosive from bleach is given as just an expedient method. This method of
manufacturing potassium chlorate is not economical due to the amount of energy used to boil the solution and cause
the 'dissociation' reaction to take place. This procedure does work and yields a relatively pure and a sulfur/sulfide
free product. These explosives are very cap sensitive and require only a #3 cap for instigating detonation.
To manufacture potassium chlorate from bleach (5¬% sodium hypochlorite solution) obtain a heat source (hot plate
etc.) a battery hydrometer, a large pyrex or enameled steel container (to weigh chemicals), and some potassium
chloride (sold as salt substitute). Take one gallon of bleach, place it in the container and begin heating it. While this
solution heats, weigh out 63 g potassium chloride and add this to the bleach being heated. Bring this solution to a
boil and boiled until when checked by a hydrometer the reading is 1.3 (if a battery hydrometer is used it should read
full charge).
When the reading is 1.3 take the solution and let it cool in the refrigerator until it's between room temperature and
0øC. Filter out the crystals that have formed and save them. Boil the solution again until it reads 1.3 on the
hydrometer and again cool the solution. Filter out the crystals that have formed and save them. Boil this solution
again and cool as before.
Filter and save the crystals. Take these crystals that have been saved and mix them with distilled water in the
following proportions: 56g per 100 mL distilled water. Heat this solution until it boils and allow it to cool. Filter the
solution and save the crystals that form upon cooling. The process if purification is called fractional crystallization.
These crystals should be relatively pure potassium chlorate.
Powder these to the consistency of face powder (400 mesh) and heat gently to drive off all moisture. Melt five parts
vaseline and five parts wax. Dissolve this in white gasoline (camp stove gasoline) and pour this liquid on 90 parts
potassium chlorate (the crystals from the above operation) in a plastic bowl. Knead this liquid into the potassium
chlorate until immediately mixed. Allow all the gasoline to evaporate. Place this explosive in a cool, dry place. Avoid
friction, sulfur, sulfide, and phosphorous compounds.
This explosive is best molded to the desired shape and density (1.3g/cc) and dipped in wax to water proof. These
block type charges guarantee the highest detonation velocity. This explosive is really not suited to use in shaped
charge applications due to its relatively low detonation velocity. It is comparable to 40% ammonia dynamite and can
be considered the same for the sake of charge computation.
If the potassium chlorate is bought and not made it is put into the manufacture process in the powdering stages
preceding the addition of the wax/vaseline mixture. This explosive is bristant and powerful. The addition of 2-3%
aluminum powder increases its blast effect. Detonation velocity is 3300 m/sec.
Plastique Explosives From Swimming Pool Chlorinating Compound
This explosive is a chlorate explosive from bleach. This method of production of potassium or sodium chlorate is
easier and yields a more pure product than does the plastique explosive from bleach process.
In this reaction the HTH (calcium hypochlorite CaC10) is mixed with water and heated with either sodium chloride
(table salt, rock salt) or potassium chloride (salt substitute). The latter of these salts is the salt of choice due to the
easy crystallization of the potassium chlorate.
This mixture will need to be boiled to ensure complete reaction of the ingredients. Obtain some HTH swimming pool
chlorination compound or equivalent (usually 65% calcium hypochlorite). As with the bleach process mentioned
earlier the reaction described below is also a dissociation reaction. In a large pyrex glass or enameled steel container
place 1200g HTH and 220g potassium chloride or 159g sodium chloride. Add enough boiling water to dissolve the
powder and boil this solution. A chalky substance (calcium chloride) will be formed. When the formation of this chalky
substance is no longer formed the solution is filtered while boiling hot. If potassium chloride was used potassium
chlorate will be formed.
This potassium chlorate will drop out or crystallize as the clear liquid left after filtering cools. These crystals are
filtered out when the solution reaches room temperature. If the sodium chloride salt was used this clear filtrate (clear
liquid after filtration) will need to have all water evaporated. This will leave crystals which should be saved.
These crystals should be heated in a slightly warm oven in a pyrex dish to drive off all traces of water (40-75øC).
These crystals are ground to a very fine powder (400 mesh).
If the sodium chloride salt is used in the initial step the crystallization is much more time consuming. The potassium
chloride is the salt to use as the resulting product will crystallize out of the solution as it cools. The powdered and
completely dry chlorate crystals are kneaded together with vaseline in a plastic bowl. ALL CHLORATE BASED
EXPLOSIVES ARE SENSITIVE TO FRICTION AND SHOCK AND THESE SHOULD BE AVOIDED. If sodium chloride
is used in this explosive it will have a tendency to cake and has a slightly lower detonation velocity.
This explosive is composed of the following:
Potassium/Sodium Chlorate 90%
Vaseline 10%
Simply pour the powder into a plastic baggy and knead in the vaseline carefully. This explosive (especially if the
Sodium Chlorate variation is used) should not be exposed to water or moisture.
The detonation velocity can be raised to a slight extent by the addition of 2-3% aluminum substituted for 2-3% of the
vaseline. This addition of this aluminum will give the explosive a bright flash if set off at night which will ruin night
vision for a short while. The detonation velocity of this explosive is approximately 3200 m/sec for the potassium salt
and 2900 m/sec for the sodium salt based explosive.
It was claimed above that this explosive degrades over time. I would assume that this occurs due to the small amount
of water present in the vaseline, and that a different type of fuel would be better than the vaseline.
ASSORTED NASTIES:
Sweet-Oil
In this one you open there hood and pour some honey in their oil spout. If you have time you might remover the oil
plug first and drain some of the oil out. I have tried this one but wasn't around to see the effects but I am sure that I
did some damage.
Slow Air
OK, sneak up the victims car and poke a small hole somewhere in 2 of his/her tires. They only have 1 spare. Now if
the hole is small but there then there tire will go flat some where on the road. You could slice the tire so this is blows
out on the road with a razor blade. Cut a long and fairly deep (don't cut a hole all the way through) and peel a little bit
of the rubber back and cut that off. Now very soon there tires will go flat or a possible blow out at a high speed if your
lucky.
Vanishing Paint
Spread a little gas or paint thinner on the victims car and this will make his paint run and fade. Vodka will eat the
paint off and so will a little 190. Eggs work great on paint if they sit there long enough.
Loose Wheel
Loosen the lugs on you victims tires so that they will soon fall off. This can really fuck some one up if they are
cruising when the tire falls off.
Dual Neutral
This name sucks but pull the 10 bolt or what ever they have there off. (On the real wheels, in the middle of the axle)
Now throw some screws, blots, nuts and assorted things in there and replace the cover. At this point you could chip
some of the teeth off the gears.
Un-Midaser
Crawl under there car with a ratchet and loosen all the nuts on their exhaust so that it hangs low and will fall off soon.
This method also works on transmissions but is a little harder to get all bolts off, but the harder you work the more
you fuck them over.
LAUGHING GAS
Learn how to make laughing gas from ammonium nitrate. Laughing gas was one of the earliest anesthetics. After a
little while of inhaling the gas the patient became so happy [ain't life great?] he couldn't keep from laughing. Finally he
would drift off to a pleasant sleep.
Some do-it-yourselfers have died while taking laughing gas. This is because they has generated it through plastic
bags while their heads were inside. They were simply suffocating but were too bombed out to realize it.
The trick is to have a plastic clothes bag in which you generate a lot of the gas. Then you stop generating the gas
and hold a small opening of the bag under your nose, getting plenty of oxygen in the meantime. Then, Whee! To
make it you start with ammonium nitrate bought from a chemical supply house or which you have purified with 100%
rubbing or wood alcohol.
First, dissolve a quantity of ammonium nitrate in some water. Then you evaporate the water over the stove, while
stirring, until you have a heavy brine. When nearly all the moisture is out it should solidify instantly when a drop is put
on an ice cold metal plate.
When ready, dump it all out on a very cold surface. After a while, break it up and store it in a bottle.
A spoonful is put into a flask with a one-hole stopper, with a tube leading into a big plastic bag. The flask is heated
with an alcohol lamp.
When the temperature in the flask reaches 480 F the gas will generate. If white fumes appear the heat should be
lowered as the stuff explodes at 600 F.
When the bag is filled, stop the action and get ready to turn on.
CAUTION:
NýO supplants oxygen in your blood, but you don't realize it. It's easy to die from NýO because you're suffocating and
your breathing reflex doesn't know it. Do not put your head in a plastic bag. You will cheerfully choke to death.
PIPE OR "ZIP" GUNS
Commonly known as "zip" guns, guns made from pipe have been used for years by juvenile punks. Today's Militants
make them just for the hell of it or to shoot once in an assassination or riot and throw away if there is any danger of
apprehension.
They can be used many times but with some, a length of dowel is needed to force out the spent shell.
There are many variations but the illustration shows the basic design.
First, a wooden stock is made and a groove is cut for the barrel to rest in. The barrel is then taped securely to the
stock with a good, strong tape.
The trigger is made from galvanized tin. A slot is punched in the trigger flap to hold a roofing nail, which is wired or
soldered onto the flap. The trigger is bent and nailed to the stock on both sides.
The pipe is a short length of one-quarter inch steel gas or water pipe with a bore that fits in a cartridge, yet keeps the
cartridge rim from passing through the pipe.
The cartridge is put in the pipe and the cap, with a hole bored through it, is screwed on. Then the trigger is slowly
released to let the nail pass through the hole and rest on the primer.
To fire, the trigger is pulled back with the left hand and held back with
the thumb of the right hand. The gun is then aimed and the thumb releases the
trigger and the thing actually fires.
Pipes of different lengths and diameters are found in any hardware store. All caliber bullets, from the .22 to the .45
are used in such guns.
Some zip guns are made from two or three pipes nested within each other. For instance, a .22 shell will fit snugly into
a length of a car's copper gas line. Unfortunately, the copper is too weak to withstand the pressure of the firing. So
the length of gas line is spread with glue and pushed into a wider length of pipe. This is spread with glue and pushed
into a length of steel pipe with threads and a cap.
Using this method, you can accommodate any cartridge, even a rifle shell. The first size of pipe for a rifle shell
accommodates the bullet. The second accommodates its wider powder chamber.
A 12-gauge shotgun can be made from a 3/4 inch steel pipe. If you want to comply with the gun laws, the barrel
should be at least eighteen inches long.
Its firing mechanism is the same as that for the pistol. It naturally has a longer stock and its handle is lengthened into
a rifle butt. Also, a small nail is driven half way into each side of the stock about four inches in the front of the trigger.
The rubber band is put over one nail and brought around the trigger and snagged over the other nail.
In case you actually make a zip gun, you should test it before firing it by hand. This is done by first tying the gun to a
tree or post, pointed to where it will do no damage. Then a string is tied to the trigger and you go off several yards.
The string is then pulled back and let go. If the barrel does not blow up, the gun is (probably) safe to fire by hand.
Repeat firings may weaken the barrel, so NO zip gun can be considered "safe" to use.
Astrolite and Sodium Chlorate Explosives
By: Future Spy & The Fighting Falcon
Note: Information on the Astrolite Explosives were taken from the book 'Two Component High Explosive Mixtures' By
Desert Pub'l
Some of the chemicals used are somewhat toxic, but who gives a fuck! Go ahead! I won't even bother mentioning
'This information is for enlightening purposes only'! I would love it if everyone made a gallon of astrolite and blew their
fucking school to kingdom scum!
Astrolite
The astrolite family of liquid explosives were products of rocket propellant research in the '60's. Astrolite A-1-5 is
supposed to be the world's most powerful non-nuclear explosive -at about 1.8 to 2 times more powerful than TNT.
Being more powerful it is also safer to handle than TNT (not that it isn't safe in the first place) and Nitroglycerin.
Astrolite G
"Astrolite G is a clear liquid explosive especially designed to produce very high detonation velocity, 8,600MPS
(meters/sec.), compared with 7,700MPS for nitroglycerin and 6,900MPS for TNT...In addition, a very unusual
characteristic is that it the liquid explosive has the ability to be absorbed easily into the ground while remaining
detonatable...In field tests, Astrolite G has remained detonatable for 4 days in the ground, even when the soil was
soaked due to rainy weather" know what that means?....Astrolite Dynamite!
To make (mix in fairly large container & outside) Two parts by weight of ammonium nitrate mixed with one part by
weight 'anhydrous' hydrazine, produces Astrolite G...Simple enough eh? I'm sure that the 2:1 ratio is not perfect, and
that if you screw around with it long enough, that you'll find a better formula. Also, dunno why the book says
'anhydrous' hydrazine, hydrazine is already anhydrous...
Hydrazine is the chemical you'll probably have the hardest time getting hold of. Uses for Hydrazine are: Rocket fuel,
agricultural chemicals (maleic hydra-zide), drugs (antibacterial and antihypertension), polymerization catalyst, plating
metals on glass and plastics, solder fluxes, photographic developers, diving equipment. Hydrazine is also the
chemical you should be careful with.
Astrolite A/A-1-5
Mix 20% (weight) aluminum powder to the ammonium nitrate, and then mix with hydrazine. The aluminum powder
should be 100 mesh or finer. Astrolite A has a detonation velocity of 7,800MPS.
Misc Info
You should be careful not to get any of the astrolite on you, if it happens though, you should flush the area with water.
Astrolite A&G both should be able to be detonated by a #8 blasting cap.
Sodium Chlorate Formulas
Sodium Chlorate is similar to potassium chlorate, and in most cases can be a substitute. Sodium chlorate is also
more soluble in water. You can find sodium chlorate at Channel or any hardware/home improvement store. It is used
in blowtorches and you can get about 3 lbs for about $6.00.
Sodium Chlorate Gunpowder
65% Sodium Chlorate
22% Charcoal
13% Sulfur
Sprinkles of Graphite on top
Rocket Fuel
6 parts Sodium Chlorate
5 parts Rubber Cement
Mix *THOROUGHLY*
Rocket Fuel II
(Better Performance)
50% Sodium Chlorate
35% Rubber Cement ('One-Coat' brand)
10% Epoxy Resin Hardener
5% Sulfur
You may want to add more sodium chlorate depending on the purity you are using.
Incendiary Mixture
55% Aluminum Powder (Atomized)
45% Sodium Chlorate
5% Sulfur
Impact Mixture
50% Red Phosphorus
50% Sodium Chlorate
Unlike potassium chlorate, sodium chlorate won't explode spontaneously when mixed with phosphorus. It has to be
hit to be detonated.
Filler explosive
85% Sodium Chlorate
10% Vaseline
5% Aluminum Powder
Nitromethane formulas
I thought that I might add this in since it's similar to Astrolite.
Nitromethane (CH3NOý)
Specific Gravity: 1.139
Flash Point: 95øF
Auto-Ignite: 785øF
Derivation: Reaction of methane or propane with nitric acid under pressure.
Uses: Rocket fuel; solvent for cellulosic compounds, polymers, waxes, fats, etc.
To be detonated with a #8 cap, add:
1.95% nitromethane + 5% ethylenediamine
2.94% nitromethane + 6% aniline
Power output: 22-24% more powerful than TNT. Detonation velocity of 6,200MPS.
Nitromethane 'solid' explosives
2 parts nitromethane
5 parts ammonium nitrate (solid powder)
Soak for 3-5 min. When done, store in an air-tight container. This is supposed to be 30% more powerful than
dynamite containing 60% nitro-glycerin, and has 30% more brilliance.
MERCURY BATTERY BOMB!
by Phucked Agent!
Materials:
1 Mercury Battery (1« or 1.4 V Hearing Aid)
1 working lamp with on/off switch
It is VERY SIMPLE!!! Hurray! Kids under 18 shouldn't consider trying this one or else they would have mercuric acid
on their faces!
1.Turn the lamp switch on to see if lite-bulb lights up.
2.If work, leave the switch on and unplug the cord
3.Unscrew the bulb (Don't touch the hot-spot!)
4.Place 1 Mercury Battery in the socket and make sure that it is touching the Hot-spot contact.
5.Move any object or furniture - Why? There may be sparks given off!
6.Now your favorite part, stand back and plug in cord in the socket.
7.And you will have fun!! Like Real Party!!!
2 19.Thermite IV by Kilroy
DISCLAIMER :
The making and possession of the following devices and mixtures is probably illegal in most communities. The
incendiaries are capable of burning in excess of 5400øF and are next to impossible to extinguish. If you make them
you accept all responsibility for their possession and use. You also accept all responsibility for your own stupidity and
carelessness. This information is intended solely to educate. All Formulas are by Weight
Thermites are a group of pyrotechnics mixtures in which a reactive metal reduces oxygen from a metallic oxide. This
produces a lot of heat, slag and pure metal. The most common thermite is ferroaluminum thermite, made from
aluminum (reactive metal) and iron oxide (metal oxide). When it burns it produces aluminum oxide (slag) and pure
iron. Thermite is usually used to cut or weld metal. As an experiment, a 3 lb. brick of thermite was placed on an
aluminum engine block. After the thermite was done burning, only a small portion of block was melted. However, the
block was very warped out of shape plus there were cracks all through the block. Ferro-thermite produces about 930
calories per gram The usual proportions of ferro-thermite are 25% aluminum and 75% iron oxide The iron oxide
usually used is not rust (Fe2O3) but iron scale (Fe3O4). Rust will work but you may want to adjust the mixture to
about 77% rust. The aluminum is usually coarse powder to help slow down the burning rate. The chemicals are
mixed together thoroughly and compressed into a suitable container. A first fire mix is poured on top and ignited.
NOTE: Thermites are generally very safe to mix and store. They are not shock or friction sensitive and ignite at about
2000øF.
A first fire mix is a mixture that ignites easier than thermite and burns hot enough to light the thermite reliably. A very
good one is :
Potassium Nitrate 5 parts
Fine ground Aluminum 3 parts
Sulfur 2 parts
Mix the above thoroughly and combine 2 parts of it with 1 part of finely powdered ferro-thermite. The resulting mixture
can be light by safety fuse and burns intensely.
One problem with thermites is the difference in weight between the aluminum and the oxide. This causes them to
separate out rendering the thermite useless. One way to fix this is to use a binder to hold the chemicals to each
other. Sulfur is good for this. Called Diasite, this formula uses sulfur to bind all the chemicals together. It's drawback
is the thermite must be heated to melt the sulfur.
Iron Oxide 70 %
Aluminum 23 %
Sulfur 7 %
Mix the oxide and aluminum together and put them in an oven at 325øF and let the mix heat for a while. When the
mixture is hot sprinkle the sulfur over it and mix well. Put this back in the oven for a few minutes to melt all the sulfur.
Pull it back out and mix it again. While it is still hot, load into containers for use. When it cools, drill out the diasite to
hold about 10 - 15 grams of first fire mix. When diasite burns it forms sulfide compounds that release hydrogen
sulfide when in contact with water. This rotten egg odor can hamper fire fighting efforts. Thermite can be made not to
separate by compressing it under a couple of tons pressure. The resulting pellet is strong and burns slower than
thermite powder.
CAST THERMITE: This formula can be cast into molds or containers and hardens into a solid mass. It does not
produce as much iron as regular ferro-thermite, but it makes a slag which stays liquid a lot longer. Make a mixtures
as follows.
Plaster of Paris 2 parts
Fine and Coarse Mixed Aluminum 2 parts
Iron Oxide 3 parts
Mix together well and add enough water to wet down plaster. Pour it into a mold and let it sit for « hour. Pour off any
extra water that separates out on top. Let this dry in the sun for at least a week. Or dry in the sun for one day and put
in a 250øF oven for a couple of hours. Drill it out for a first fire mix when dry.
THERMITE BOMB: Thermite can be made to explode by taking the cast thermite formula and substituting fine
powdered aluminum for the coarse/fine mix. Take 15 grams of first fire mix and put in the center of a piece of
aluminum foil. Insert a waterproof fuse into the mix and gather up the foil around the fuse. Waterproof the foil/fuse
with a thin coat of wax. Obtain a two-piece spherical mold with a diameter of about 4-5 inches. Wax or oil the inside
of the mold to help release the thermite. Now, fill one half of the mold with the cast thermite. Put the first fire/fuse
package into the center of the filled mold. Fill the other half of the mold with the thermite and assemble mold. The
mold will have to have a hole in it for the fuse to stick out. In about an hour, carefully separate the mold. You should
have a ball of thermite with the first fire mix in the center of it, and the fuse sticking out of the ball. Dry the ball in the
sun for about a week. DO NOT DRY IT IN AN OVEN! The fuse ignites the first fire mix which in turn ignites the
thermite. Since the thermite is ignited from the center out, the heat builds up in the thermite and it burns faster than
normal. The result is a small explosion. The thermite ball burns in a split second and throws molten iron and slag
around. Use this carefully !
THERMITE WELL: To cut metal with thermite, take a refractory crucible and drill a 1/4 in. hole in the bottom. Epoxy a
thin (20 gal) sheet of mild steel over the hole. Allow the epoxy to dry. Fill the crucible with ferro-thermite and insert a
first fire igniter in the thermite. Fashion a standoff to the crucible. This should hold the crucible about 1 « in. up. Place
the well over your target and ignite the first fire. The well works this way. The thermite burns, making slag and iron.
Since the iron is heavier it goes to the bottom of the well. The molten iron burns through the metal sheet. This
produces a small delay which gives the iron and slag more time to separate fully. The molten iron drips out through
the hole in the bottom of the crucible. The standoff allows the thermite to continue flowing out of the crucible. The
force of the dripping iron bores a hole in the target. A 2 lb thermite well can penetrate up to 3/4 in. of steel.
Experiment with different configurations to get maximum penetration. For a crucible, try a flower pot coated with a
magnesium oxide layer. Sometimes the pot cracks however. Take the cast thermite formula and add 50% ferrothermite
to it. This produces a fair amount of iron plus a very liquid slag.
THERMITE FUEL-AIR EXPLOSION: This is a very dangerous device. Ask yourself if you really truly want to make it
before you do any work on it. It is next to impossible to give any dimensions of containers or weights of charges
because of the availability of parts changes from one person to the next. However here is a general description of this
device affectionately known as a HELLHOUND.
Make a thermite charge in a 1/8 in. wall pipe. This charge must be electrically ignited. At the opposite end of the pipe
away from the ignitor side put a small explosive charge of flash powder weighing about 1 oz Drill a small hole in a
pipe end cap and run the wires from the ignitor through the hole. Seal the wires and hole up with fuel proof epoxy or
cement. Try ferrule cement available at sporting goods stores. Dope the threads of the end caps with a good pipe
dope and screw them onto the pipe. This gives you a thermite charge in an iron pipe arranged so that when the
thermite is electrically ignited, it will burn from one end to the other finally setting of the flash powder charge. Place
this device in a larger pipe or very stout metal container which is sealed at one end. Use a couple of metal "spiders"
to keep the device away from the walls or ends of the larger container. Run the wires out through the wall of the
container and seal the wires with the fuel proof epoxy. Fill the container with a volatile liquid fuel. Acetone or gasoline
works great. Now seal up the container with an appropriate end cap and it is done.
The device works like this: Attach a timer-power supply to the wires. When the thermite is ignited it superheats the
liquid fuel. Since the container is strong enough to hold the pressure the fuel does not boil. When the thermite burns
down to the explosive, it explodes rupturing the container and releasing the superheated fuel. The fuel expands,
cooling off and making a fine mist and vapor that mixes with the surrounding air. The hot thermite slag is also thrown
into the air which ignites the fuel-air mix. The result is obvious. Try about 1 « lbs of thermite to a gallon of fuel. For the
pressure vessel, try an old pressure cooker. Because the fuel may dissolve the epoxy don't keep this device around
for very long. But ask yourself, do you really want to make this?
EXOTIC THERMITES: Thermites can also be made from teflon-magnesium or metal fluorides-magnesium or
aluminum. If there is an excess of fluoride compound in the mixture, fluorine gas can be released. Fluorine is
extremely corrosive and reactive. The gas can cause organic material to burst into flames by mere contact. For
teflon-magnesium use 67% teflon and 33% magnesium. A strong first fire igniter should be used to ignite this mixture.
Both the teflon and the magnesium should be in powdered form. Do not inhale any smoke from the burning mixture. If
you use metal-fluorides instead of teflon, use fluorides of low energy metals. Lead fluoride is a good example. Try
using 90% lead fluoride and 10% aluminum. Warning: Fluoride compounds can be very poisonous. They are
approximately equal to cyanide compounds. Another exotic mix is tricalcium orthophosphate and aluminum. When
this burns, it forms calcium phosphide which when contacts water releases hydrogen phosphide which can ignite
spontaneously in air. Tricalcium orthophosphate has the formula Ca3(PO4)2 and is known as white-lockite. Use
about 75% orthophosphate and 25% aluminum. This ratio may have to be altered for better burning as I have not
experimented with it much and don't know if more aluminum may reduce the calcium better. It does work but it is a
hard to ignite mixture. A first fire mix containing a few percent of magnesium works well.
Fighting thermite fires: Two ways to fight thermite fires are either smothering the thermite with sand. This doesn't put
out the thermite but it does help contain it and block some of the heat. The other way is to flood the thermite with a
great amount of water. This helps to break the thermite apart and stop the reaction. If you use a small amount of
water, an explosion may result as the thermite may reduce the water and release hydrogen gas. Thermite can start
fires from the heat radiating from the reaction. Nearby flammable substances can catch fire even though no sparks or
flame touch them.